Also how on earth are you supposed to put the oil in through the fairly
small (vertical) filler/level hole?
Sorry if these are silly newbie questions.
Cheers
Lance
> Also how on earth are you supposed to put the oil in through the fairly
> small (vertical) filler/level hole?
>
>
> Sorry if these are silly newbie questions.
>
> Cheers
>
> Lance
When you buy a gallon container also get a litre bottle. connected to the
lid is about 6 inches of pipe. Fill the litre bottle up from the gallon
container ,place the pipe in the hole then carefully squeeze the bottle.
>
>
The salisbury axle uses the case to provide the pre-load onto the diff, and as
such the diff cannot be removed from the casing without stretching it. This is
quite difficult and can result in the casing being overstretched and ruined in
the process. Plus when setting them up you have to stretch the casing again to
add or remove shims. The upside of the salisbury type is that they are much
stronger, which is why they were used on the 109" 1 tonne model.
Which answers another of your questions. As far as I can tell, your SWB would
never have been fitted with a Salisbury diff, as these were only fitted to the 1
Tonne LWB 109". The way to tell is to look at the diff. If it's Rover (or ENV)
it will have a ring of about 10 bolts on the side where the prop goes into it,
which split the nose-cone away from the casing. A salisbury axle has the bolts
securing an access plate on the rear of the axle casing.
As for oil, buy a 1 litre bottle of EP90 which has a long spout about 6-8" on
it. Then buy a couple of gallons of EP90, if you intend to replace all the
fluids. You will need it.
The seals, I think are identical. Check with the suppliers, as they will know.
Only the defender ueses different seals, which fit over the stub axle, but are
too small for the hubs. It's worth changing the seals if you don't know the
history, as they can leak EP90 all over the brake shoes. Also, get a pair of
felt seals for the ends of the halfshafts, as these leak EP90 onto the wheels.
While you've got the hubs off, take the opportuinty to change the seals on the
slave cylinders as well. Check the bores and pistons, and clean off any dirt
with a medium grade emery pad (pad, not paper!) The wheel bearings shouldn't
need attention, but rough running may indicate a new set is required. Don't
overtighten the hub nuts, as your bearings will then last about 3 months.
Alex
Alex