If she's idling at 500 and not stalling, I'ld be tempted to just leave it -
slower idle, less fuel being burnt = more pennys in your pocket!
However, if you're running with twin SU carbs (the ones with the shiny
bell-shaped domes on top, topped off with a little black screw in plug) -
which are AFAIK standard on the SD1, then the idle is adjusted by a small
screw on the side of each carb - see
http://www.camcor.demon.co.uk/landrover/misc/su_idle.jpg Screw the screws in
to increase the idle speed, out to lower it. Try to make equal adjustments
to both screws, otherwise the balance between the carbs will be affected.
You should aim for around 650rpm with the choke in.
HTH,
Andy C.
Cambridge, UK,
http://www.camcor.demon.co.uk/landrover/
P.S. This is how it's done on my engine, which I believe has the standard
SD1 throttle linkage setup, with a non-adjustable link arm between the 2
carbs. If yours has an adjustable link arm, it may be different.
Andy Cleland <andyc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:991503892.11870.0...@news.demon.co.uk...
I don't know if mine is an SD1 or not - I don't know the history of the
engine and various bits don't match up - i.e. SD1 carbs and linkages, Range
Rover front cover with later type oil seal, early (pre-1976) RR dizzy and an
engine number which everybody tells me isn't an engine number (see
http://www.camcor.demon.co.uk/landrover/misc/e_number.html ) - it's a bit
weird.
Anyhow, according to David Hardcastle's book; "Tuning Rover V8 Engines", the
carbed SD1 should chuck out 155bhp@4752prm and around 190ftlb@2750rpm.
Changing the clutch itself is pretty easy, just unbolt the old clutch cover
and bolt in the new one. The amusing part is normally getting to the clutch.
Depending on what vehicle your engine is in there are different options - on
my lightweight the easiest way is to take out the seatbox and transmission
tunnel and come in from the top, using an engine hoist and sling to support
the gearbox. I think that with the range rover it's recommended to go in
underneath and support the gearbox on a special stand, I think you can rig
something with a trolley jack. I don't know about Defenders/Discos, but
it'll probably be from underneath. It's made difficult by not only poor
access, but the gearbox/transfer box assembly is bl***y heavy and hard to
manoeuvre. Reckon on a long day and a helper for when you come to reposition
the gearbox.
It's worth spending plenty of time making sure that the drive plate is
absolutely centred on the flywheel bush, so that when you offer the gearbox
up the input shaft fits into the drive plate - try and get hold of an old
input shaft to use as a centring tool.
Also, change everything while you have engine/gearbox split - clutch cover
plate, drive plate and the clutch release bearing - around £100 for genuine
parts (for an LT95 gearbox) from Llama4x4 - again worth using the best
quality bits - the less you have to change these bits the better.....
HTH,
Andy C.
155BHP was quoted in the original marketing blurb, but this was during the
80s when you didn't have to be too accurate. I'd guess at around the
140-145bhp mark in real terms - at the flywheel. In a landy take off around
45% (due to driveline drag, etc) to get bhp at the wheels - around 95bhp.
Thats why even SD1 V8 engined landies aren't that fast :(
Uel