Galvafroid??
Andrew Harton
At the moment I'm about 3/4 way through stripping
my Landie back to the bare metal, with the plan being
to repaint it thereafter.
I've noticed in stripping the thick layer of paint
off the galvanised cappings that
a) paint doesn't seem to sticl well to galvanised metal
and
b) the capping is in pretty poor shape in some areas,
with rust evident.
I've found out about a product called galvafroid, which
is like paint-on galvanising, and I'm wondering if anyone
has any experience with using this.
I'm reluctant to remove the cappings to get them
re-galvanised, since that'd be more effort than it's worth
(in my opinion anyway), hence the interest in a paint-on
alternative.
Thanks,
Andrew
--
SIII 88" | Member of Club Land Rover Ireland |
| http://www.clri.net |
Peter Smith
by it. He was a sheet metal worker/welder/all things metal. It has
advantages over red oxide coating but I'm not sure what. All I know is that
it is a cold method of galvanising. True galvanising is a hot zinc dip.
I had some years ago . . . . . but the tin went rusty. :-)
"Andrew Harton" <andrew...@agilent.com> wrote in message
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Matt Syson
I remember it came about best in antirust treatments in Popular Mechanics /
classics DIY mag a few years ago. I have used some on my 90 rebuild but I
have a new Galv chassis and the amount of Galvafroid is not much. It is also
only a few months old too. It is very heavy because it is highly Zinc rich
and in the mag tests it protected scratched lines quite well. It is grey
primer colour not expensive galv chassis colour!
Best of luck
Matt
Bob Miller
actually called the "Band of Hope" (or the Double Hernia!)). It's not as
good as hot galvanising, but a not by much. Problem is that you need to get
rid of thick rust (and possibly thin rust) - it's meant for treating bare
metal, and after you use it you need to primer it with a non-ferrous primer
(Hammerite Special Metals Primer should do the trick but I've no
experience) - we always leave it bare galvanised on the boat. Rather than
Galvafroid, how about a good wire brush and then something like POR-15
(sticks like sh** to a blanket but you have to follow the instructions - do
some Google and Forum searches) followed by the paint of your choice - NATO
green is good!
Good luck - let the group know how you get on if you use Galvafroid,
--
Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8
"Andrew Harton" <andrew...@agilent.com> wrote in message
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Mike Buckley
galvy roof rack) is still good after 8 years)
As to the cappings, I suspect you're wasting your time - if you have
rust showing externally there's a good chance you've got lots more
internally. I've just replaced the cappings on a 110 CSW with genuine LR
ones which were galv'd when bought (genuine parts !) and are also "one
piece" . Not cheap but hopefully rather better than the poor quality
steel used on the originals.
You'll need a special primer to paint over galvy - be aware that some
top coats dont like sitting on Galvafroid btw. Tekaloid for one. OTOH,
Hamerite seems to be ok, based on the experience of a canoe trailer
which was blasted to bare metal, Galvafroided and painted with Hamerite
as a top coat.
Best - Mike.
"Andrew Harton" <andrew...@agilent.com> wrote in message
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Andrew Harton
> We've used Galvafroid on the "Old Lady" ( a 130 year old fishing boat,
> actually called the "Band of Hope" (or the Double Hernia!)). It's
> not as good as hot galvanising, but a not by much. Problem is that
> you need to get rid of thick rust (and possibly thin rust) - it's
> meant for treating bare metal, and after you use it you need to
> primer it with a non-ferrous primer (Hammerite Special Metals Primer
> should do the trick but I've no experience) - we always leave it bare
> galvanised on the boat. Rather than Galvafroid, how about a good
> wire brush and then something like POR-15 (sticks like sh** to a
> blanket but you have to follow the instructions - do some Google and
> Forum searches) followed by the paint of your choice - NATO green is
> good!
>
> Good luck - let the group know how you get on if you use Galvafroid,
>
Bob,
It looks like POR 15 or the like is what I'd prefer to use. I'm not going
for total authenticity with the paint job, so a treatment for the cappings
that allows me to paint over them is ideal. I'm still only partway thorough
getting the paint off, but I'll let the group know how I get on once I get
to that stage.
Thanks for the advice...