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p38 EAS valve block

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David Haggas

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Apr 18, 2012, 2:18:42 PM4/18/12
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I have an intermittent EAS fault 2000MY P38. The suspension usually raises quite quickly (within 1 minute
driving from access) but occasionally (usually when the vehicle has not been used for a while or in cold
temperatures) takes up to 5 miles driving and has timed out and locked up with the dash warning. I'm told its
a blocked OSF "valve" which would be GBP53 plus an hours labour. A new ride sensor has also been fitted on
this corner as per previous testbook fault codes. Will fitting a new valve cure it or is this the start of
lots of similar problems? What would be the best course of action?

DaveB

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Apr 19, 2012, 12:00:42 PM4/19/12
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In article <Pc6dnZD7t_cOmBLS...@bt.com>,
david...@compuserve.com says...
Check the air pump motor. A bit of a known weak spot. There are good
correctly re-built units about. Also, raise it to it's max height, and
check for leaks.

I think there is a way to persuade it to stay at that height when you
switch the engine off, so you can hear any leaks. Sometimes one or more
airbags can have a small hole, that is partly covered at the normal ride
height, but any leak will work the compressor hard.

From the little of those I know about, they are not dificult to work on,
but you'll need some guidance, perhaps from a good localy recomended
indipendant workshop?

Sadly, the P38 does not have a good reputation for reliability. Pitty,
'cos when they are working, they are nice car's.

Cheers.

Dave B.

David Haggas

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Apr 19, 2012, 3:47:54 PM4/19/12
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"DaveB" <g8...@uko2.co.uk> wrote in message news:MPG.29fa46fac...@aioe.org...
-----------------

Yes thanks for that Dave. I've had it from new and covered only 72k so can vouch for mostly good reliability
until now. The springs are definately not leaking and the compressor is fine also. I don't want to move to an
L322 just yet but I need a reliable car. I have heard the suspension causes more problems than anything else
on these so hope this is not the thin end of the wedge.

David

DaveB

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Apr 20, 2012, 4:30:49 AM4/20/12
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In article <LMydnZ_iwsKZ8Q3S...@bt.com>,
david...@compuserve.com says...
The other thought, is with the car powered down, check all the
electrical connections, especially the sensor plugs/sockets etc.

Electronics in general is very reilable, however, such systems rely on
good information given to them to "do the right thing", and if there is
some duff or flakey signals coming in (because of a bad connection)
though there is usually contingency software within the systems to try
and clean up the signal, or "aproximate" it from other info, that can
only do so much.

Oh... And as graphicly illustrated at the end of one Abingdon 4x4
event, don't open the doors, if you get a P38 stuck in deep water. All
the clever bits are under the drivers seat, and are not waterproof!

I'd never seen a car "blow it's mind" before, that was spectacular to
say the least. Every system going haywire, and the engine cranking
uncontrolably (but not running.) Lights flashing in odd ways, wipers,
windows, door locks, the lot were totally freaked out. We just dis'd
the battery, and stuck it on a trailer to get back to camp.

It came back to life just fine though. After it was back at camp and
the ECU's were removed, striped out, washed in clean water, and dried in
a camper oven on low heat. (45 mins, gas mark 2 or something?) Much to
everyones amazement, after a few management reset's it burst back into
life and everything worked again. (Well done "Mike W".) No one was
expecting that good a repair.

Like I said before, nice car's when everything works. I suspect they
are a hackers paradise, but I don't have the space (or time) for one.

Regards.

Dave B.
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