OT: 2 stroke fuel mix
Stig
and brush cutter. Life being what it is, the brushcutter wants 20:1
fuel mix and the hedgetrimmer wants 40:1.
Now I'd quite like to be able to mix up a gallon of fuel at a time
(which would last no more than 1-2 months) and just tip it into
whatever needs it. Trouble is I know nowt about 2 strokes.
What are the consequences of running the trimmer on 20:1 (I've tried a
tank full and it runs OK, if a little smoky). Or alternatively,
running the brush cutter on 40:1?
And will the lawnmower engine fit in a Series 2?
Stig
1958 Series II
1995 Discovery V8i
and a deep deep yearning for a 101 Ambi....
-----------== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Ulimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----
Norman
Use a good quality oil, preferably by Husqvarna or Stihl, which is designed
for very fast revving chainsaws. I'd also be inclined to use seperate mixes
for each, and maybe only mix 1/2 gallon of each. Ok, it'll cost you another
can, but it'll save you either wasting money on unnecessary 2 stroke oil, or
under-lubricating one of the machines.
And remember to give the cans a good shake if they've been sitting a while -
the oil can tend to settle out.
Norman
Richard Brookman
rich one (20:1). You won't harm a 2-stroke permanently by running a rich
mixture, it'll just be smoky and may foul the plug(s), and it will need
decoking more often. Using a mix weaker than specified may well wreck the
engine in a couple of minutes. Using the 40:1 mix for both, or a compromise
ratio of 30:1, is therefore a no-no.
--
________________________________
Richard Brookman
1986 90 V8
1993 RR Vogue 3.9
"Norman" <nha...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3cff850b$1...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
Colin Grainger
Its not a good idea to run the engine with too much oil in the fuel, this
can do as much harm as too little oil.
the reason being that the more oil in the mix, the less petrol- hence you
will be running too weak a petrol/air mix. This causes overheating and can
seize your engine just as quickly as too little oil.
I know this from experience, I used to race two stroke bikes.
Colin
"Norman" <nha...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3cff850b$1...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
TonyB
TonyB
"Colin Grainger" <Colin.G...@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:adodge$8bd$2...@paris.btinternet.com...
Stig
Another petrol can it is then - I don't think I'll be allowed new toys
for a while now, so I'd better not break these!
Cheers
Alex Harrington
Yes - but I'd suggest fitting a larger rubber band for it to wind up - thus
giving you more milage between cranking stops!
A LWB LR is better since the rubber band to the back axle is longer and
therefore can store more energy - FACT!
Alex
Graham Wood
There is a world of difference between a good quality two stroke oil such as
Stihl or Husqvarna's own oil, and cheap 2 stroke oils. Depending on the
make of tools you've got, the instruction manuals usually specify a mix
thats suitable for the lowest common denomination oil that people are likely
to use (Usually the cheapest!)
Modern chainsaws run at a 50:1 mix of a top quality oil, and your
brushcutter and hedgetrimmer should also be fine on this. I use Husqvarna
oil at this mix in a chainsaw, brushcutter and hedgetrimmer, and have done
in a variety of 2 stroke tools for years with no problems at all. If you
are worried at the prospect, then mix the decent oil at 40:1 and this should
be fine in anything. Nothing new should need 20:1 if you're using decent
oil.
The lawnmower engine will fit in the S2 with loads of room to spare, if
you're not in a hurry.
Graham W
Never had a LUX
can run the trimmer, brushcutter and even a 4 stoke lawnmower on the
same mix. (100:1)
I have been running all my garden tools on this for a number of years
with no problems.
I think "optimol" is a german product
Martyn
On Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:58:30 +0100, Stig <stig_...@seriesii.co.uk>
wrote:
Andy Wells
news:adobs0$102vj$1...@ID-108243.news.dfncis.de...
> I agree with Norman's comments. If you *must* use one mix, then make it
the
> rich one (20:1). You won't harm a 2-stroke permanently by running a rich
> mixture, it'll just be smoky and may foul the plug(s), and it will need
> decoking more often. Using a mix weaker than specified may well wreck the
> engine in a couple of minutes. Using the 40:1 mix for both, or a
compromise
> ratio of 30:1, is therefore a no-no.
Actually, running a two stroke on an oilier mix than prescribed means they
are running weak from the point of view of fuel / air mixture. hence they
will overheat. Sounds a bit contrary, I know, but running a 2 stroke on
20:1 when it's intended to run on 40:1 mix means that the fuel vapour is 95%
petrol for the 20:1 and 97.5% petrol for the 40:1. Therefore with more oil
(and hence less petrol) the engine may run hot due to the weak fuel / air
mixture. This can then cause the oil film to break down, even though there
is more oil, and it will then partial or full seize. Of course you will
also have problems with excessive piston, plug and cylinder head fouling,
buildup of carbon in ports, behind rings, in silencers etc.
You can't beat running things by the manufacturers recommendations.
If it says 40:1 run it on 40:1. There's nothing to stop you using a modern
synthetic oil to make it better lubricated, but at the recommended mixture.
Or you could drop the ratio to say 60:1 with a better oil but decrease the
main jet size to compensate. Not really worth the trouble though . . . . .
. just keep two cans instead of one.
Andy.
Richard Brookman
obviously weren't hi-tech enough to worry about the odd pint or so of oil.
Remember Jawa, anyone? The 2-wheel equivalent of Lada, but without the
style or reliability. By the time I got to a decent bike (RD350YPVS -
whoopeeeeeeeeeeee) it was all separate tanks and I just let the machine get
on with it.
--
________________________________
Richard Brookman
1986 90 V8
1993 RR Vogue 3.9
"Andy Wells" <andy....@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:3d01383e$0$8510$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
Andy Wells
> Fair point, and I stand corrected. The 2-stroke bikes that I messed with
> obviously weren't hi-tech enough to worry about the odd pint or so of oil.
> Remember Jawa, anyone? The 2-wheel equivalent of Lada, but without the
> style or reliability. By the time I got to a decent bike (RD350YPVS -
> whoopeeeeeeeeeeee) it was all separate tanks and I just let the machine
get
> on with it.
eastern bloc off road machine, in contrast, a CZ 175cc enduro bike (not the
horrible off road version of the road bike, but the pukka off road machine.
I also had the 250cc version, based on the moto cross machine.
Both were as fast as an greyhound and handled very well - one interesting
point was that the clutch was a steel on phosphor bronze job, either in or
out but totally bulletproof.
Of course this was a long time ago, when offroad bikes had twin shocks etc.
Probably about 1978?
Andy.
HN
<Colin.G...@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>Stig ,
>Its not a good idea to run the engine with too much oil in the fuel, this
>can do as much harm as too little oil.
>the reason being that the more oil in the mix, the less petrol- hence you
>will be running too weak a petrol/air mix. This causes overheating and can
>seize your engine just as quickly as too little oil.
>I know this from experience, I used to race two stroke bikes.
>
>Colin
Spot on! Too much oil IS worse than too little, but NOT worse than
none at all
For the best results in both machines, buy THE best fully synthetic 2
stroke oil you can afford, and use less of it.
I have been using Silkolene Comp2 Premix(of which I bought several
gallons a long time ago) in ALL my 2 stroke machines at a 50:1 mix,
even though these machines requirements are specified as requiring
33:1, 40:1, and 50:1 using mineral based oil.
The packaging of synthetics often gives details of mixes to use in
various applications compared with mineral based oils.
Oh, and modern synthetic 2 stroke oils don't separate over time.
Neil
vince
lubrication - environmentally freindly and smells wonderfull - CASTOR OIL.
Yes it is still in use today - have used it for years in my model engines -
and they run fast - 25,000rpm on methanol and nitromethane.
http://216.41.163.10/products/2stroke/castor927.asp
Silkolene Pro KR2
Castrol/Synthetic 2-Stroke Racing Oil.
Combines the outstanding anti-wear properties of castor oil with clean
burning modern synthetics to give exceptional engine performance, sustained
power output and reliability. The ideal lubricant for all high output liquid
and air-cooled kart engines. Do not mix with other lubricants. Suitable for
use with all gasoline and alcohol fuels. For dilution ratios consult engine
manufacturers' recommendations.
Basically the synthetic part is just to stop the engine gumming up if not
used for sometime.
Castor oil is still used in loads of racing 2 strokes - bikes as well.
Where do you think the name Castrol comes from?
http://www.castrol.com/products/cars_castrolr.html
yes they still make it.
Castor oil is not as good in 4 strokes because it doesn't last as long as a
synthetic but on 2 strokes with a total loss oile system there is still
nothing to touch it!
Gary Sutherland
stig_...@seriesii.co.uk (Stig) wrote:
> What are the consequences of running the trimmer on 20:1
> (I've tried a tank full and it runs OK, if a little smoky).
> Or alternatively, running the brush cutter on 40:1?
Too much oil and it'll be smokey and the plugs will become fouled and need
cleaning. Too little oil and the engine will seize-up.
Best to stick to the correct mixtures, in my experience.
> And will the lawnmower engine fit in a Series 2?
Yes. You might even be able to coax it into running on LPG!
Cheers
Gary
1969 Series 2A
1991 Discovery V8i (LPG)