ideas for .177 exploding ammo?
Josh J. Haviland
Hi, this is not quite what it might seem, i'm not out here looking for
info to blow anything up or do really illegal things with any information
given. (somewhat of a non-psycho disclaimer)
but anyways, my friends and i have to make a movie for school. we chose to
make an action movie, and are using pellet guns .177 calliber and need some
ideas on making some ammunition or something to put on the pellets to give
them a little flash when they hit the target (solid bricks),
I have tried glueing 'strike on anything' matches to the pellet, makes a
nice pop but no real flash or anything to give it the effect i'm looking
for,... any help will be greatly appreciated, prefferably in email because
i'm not here a lot.
Josh
--
__/////////\ Budgreen, ea...@cleveland.freenet.edu /\\\\\\\\\__
\\\\\\\\\/ Josh...... \/////////
=================================================================
Greg Gallacci
Hi,
Umm, err, don't yall kow that -real- bullets don't make a flash on
bricks either?
That whole business of flashing, sparking bullets is pure Hollywood
anti-reality.
It may look cool, but it aint real.
What would look pretty good, using .177 pellets, would be to put a bit
of powdered chalk into the hollow skirt of the pellet.
When they hit something hard, there is a puff of dust, and mayber even
a streak left on the wall.
Greg Gallacci
--
"The ultimate result of sheilding men from the effects
of folly is to fill the world with fools."
Herbert Spencer
DooDaa
Hi there!
I don't know what .177 cal is, but I have made very successful exploding
pellets for a normal pellet gun by drilling the pellet from the BACK
with a metal-boring drill bit (in a elec screwdriver of course!!!) that
is a *little bit* thinner than the constriction of the pellet. I drill
a nice hole (but make sure the pellet keeps firm and does not puncture
the top) and then fill it with Acetone Peroxide, compressing it in
*gently* with the reverse side of the drill bit. Make sure none of the
AP would be exposed to friction while travelling down the barrel! Then
I insert it BACKWARDS (NB!!! IE: not the way it is designed to go!)
into the barrel (It sometimes helps to roll the made boom-pellet gently
on a metal surface to get a looser fit).
When shot at: apples, coke cans(waterfilled), guavas etc. they go off
with a nice bang! The only hassle for you would be that Acetone
Peroxide does not make a flash (Doh!). Try HMTD, Chlorate Flashpowder
etc.
I have shot over 100 of these home-made pellets, and have never had a
pre-mature (barrel) explosion (touch wood!).
NB: Please be careful and research the sensitivity of the explosive to
be used VERY carefully. I would also appreciate an update, and am glad
to answer any other questions...
Cheers
DD
Harry H Conover
DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
: Hi there!
Fer Sure you have!
Methinks you have done nothing more than to read this newsgroup for
a week or two, and then expound on your imagninative fantasy....
Next time:
Learn what a .177 airgun pellet is...
Learn what Acetone Peroxide is...
Then, repent for your original, silly, fantasy post and post a retraction.
Harry C.
Bill Nelson
DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
: I don't know what .177 cal is, but I have made very successful exploding
: pellets for a normal pellet gun by drilling the pellet from the BACK
: with a metal-boring drill bit (in a elec screwdriver of course!!!) that
: is a *little bit* thinner than the constriction of the pellet. I drill
: a nice hole (but make sure the pellet keeps firm and does not puncture
I doubt seriously if you have ever seen an airgun pellet. All of them
are already hollow based - there would not be any need to drill anything.
Bill
DooDaa
Bill Nelson wrote:
>
> I doubt seriously if you have ever seen an airgun pellet. All of them
> are already hollow based - there would not be any need to drill anything.
>
> Bill
Geez, not you TOO! By your other replies to other posts I imagined you
to be a level headed guy, now this, TUT TUT.
Well sure, don't drill them then, but then you only get 1/10 of the
explosive in the back, and that is not much fun (pop - yay etc.)!
Besides, you need a really thin stomper to get past the constrition to
compact the explosive, so why not just drill it bigger? Why don't you
try it - it's great fun, and if I had a video grabber I'd send you some
pics. Why not shoot one at a Coke can filled with water, and if it
doesn't split open and leap into the air, then you know I'm typing bull.
Cheers
DD.
"Boy I'm getting sick of this..."
Mike Brown
DooDaa wrote:
> Bill Nelson wrote:
> > I doubt seriously if you have ever seen an airgun pellet. All of them
> > are already hollow based - there would not be any need to drill anything.
> Well sure, don't drill them then, but then you only get 1/10 of the
> explosive in the back
I happen to have a .177 right here. It's 5 mm long, and the solid head is
3 mm, and the already hollow rear is 2 mm. If it was drilled another 2 mm
the capacity would not increase ten-fold as you suggest, it would only double.
> Why not...SNIP...then you know I'm typing bull.
I don't need to go to all that trouble.
-Mike
DooDaa
> Fer Sure you have!
>
> Methinks you have done nothing more than to read this newsgroup for
> a week or two, and then expound on your imagninative fantasy....
>
> Next time:
>
> Learn what a .177 airgun pellet is...
>
> Learn what Acetone Peroxide is...
>
> Then, repent for your original, silly, fantasy post and post a retraction.
>
> Harry C.
Well, I 'C' that Harry is very friendly...
Perhaps this will re-assure you:
Acetone Peroxide: Scientifically called "Triacetone Peroxide" is made
by adding pure acetone (CH3COCH3) to 50% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), and
using
30% Hydrochloric acid (HCL) as a catalyst. One could also use Sulphuric
Acid of Spec. Gravity 1.82 (plus minus), but then in small amounts. The
mixture will boil if left un-cooled, and after about 1 hour a yield in
excess of 100% the original amount of acetone precipitates in a white,
water-insoluable mass. These crystals are aromatic and called Acetone
Peroxide to the lay-person. Reported to detonate at about 5200m/s,
these crystals are extremely volatile (ie. dissapear after a few days if
not confined) and oxidise iron quickly. They can easily be set off by a
2kg weight falling only 4cm, or by a hammer blow. Moderately friction
sensitive and it burns with a 'whump' when lit in *small* amounts.
Detonates if even slightly confined, or if lit in small amounts.
Considered by the military to be too sensitive and unstable for use in
detonators. So, Harry thats the Peroxy bit, anthing else you're angling
for? Oh, by the way Harry, HMTD stands for 'Hexa-methylenetriperoxide
diamine' which is a purely organic exposive (that I won't tell you how
to make, 'cause you'll probably blow yourself up if your hand is as
quick as your tounge..) and I prefer it because it isn't as sensitive as
AP, the drawback being that it is fine like talcum powder.
Oh, by the way, I don't know what '.177' is because here in South Africa
we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
still quoted in Imperial...
Any other flames?
Cheers
DD.
DooDaa
Bill Nelson wrote:
> Did your reference tell you if that produced the dimeric or trimeric
> form? Did it tell you what happens if you remove the entrained water?
> All these can make great differences in the sensitivity of the explosive.
> Some forms are far more sensitive than what you listed.
>
> ... deleted ...
>
> I suspect that Harry knows quite well how to make such trivial explosives.
> Just a guess, as I have never asked him.
>
> : Oh, by the way, I don't know what '.177' is because here in South Africa
> : we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
> : still quoted in Imperial...
>
> It is an international standard for both airguns and small calibre
> firearms. The archaic system is still used, even with the conversion
> to metric.
>
> Bill
Hello there.
The reason that I use HCL to make the AP is that HCL makes a less
sensitive explosive, than if one uses H2SO4 as a catalyst. Do you have
any accurate info regarding the explosive properties of acetone
peroxide, because I have been unable to find anything on the amount of
gas evolved, % strength compared to TNT, sensitivity comparisons etc.
Any info of this nature would be appreciated.
Thanks
DD
PS: So I'm into PC's and explosives, forgive me if I can't quote the
calibre of an airgun in some foreign meterage system.
The Silent Observer
Bill Nelson wrote:
>
>
> : Oh, by the way, I don't know what '.177' is because here in South Africa
> : we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
> : still quoted in Imperial...
>
> It is an international standard for both airguns and small calibre
> firearms. The archaic system is still used, even with the conversion
> to metric.
FWIW, .177 inch caliber is approximately 4.5mm and commonly quoted as
such -- as mentioned, it's the international standard small caliber for
air guns; there are also two less common larger calibers: 5 mm, sold only
by (AFAIK) Benjamin in the United States, and 5.5 mm or .22 caliber, the
same bore diameter as a rifle chambered for 5.56mm NATO ammunition.
Standard BB size steel air rifle shot, BTW, is about .175 inches in
diameter, and is a loose fit in a .177 bore, allowing the steel shot to
be fired from a 4.5mm air gun without damaging the rifling (at least
over a reasonable number of shots). Little or no spin is imparted to
these round shot, though, and as a result they're significantly less
accurate than a lead pellet with sealing skirt and driving band(s), even
though they usually give a higher velocity in the same gun.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
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| users ignorant of its most basic workings. |
| -- restatement of Clarke's Law as applicable to the Internet |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
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+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
Rexford T. Hound
Josh J. Haviland <ea...@cleveland.Freenet.Edu> wrote in article
<5552vk$i...@xring.cs.umd.edu>...
>
> Hi, this is not quite what it might seem, i'm not out here looking for
> info to blow anything up or do really illegal things with any information
> given. (somewhat of a non-psycho disclaimer)
> but anyways, my friends and i have to make a movie for school. we chose
to
> make an action movie, and are using pellet guns .177 calliber and need
some
> ideas on making some ammunition or something to put on the pellets to
give
> them a little flash when they hit the target (solid bricks),
> I have tried glueing 'strike on anything' matches to the pellet, makes a
> nice pop but no real flash or anything to give it the effect i'm looking
> for,... any help will be greatly appreciated, prefferably in email
because
> i'm not here a lot.
> Josh
> --
As kids we used to load strike anywhere matches in our Crossman pellet
rifle and shoot them against the wall. Sounds load and gives a small
amount of smoke. It works to about 15' at for 100% bang, anything above
that will be hit or miss.
The Hound
GothicMoos
In article <559l4c$7...@bashir.peak.org>, bi...@PEAK.ORG (Bill Nelson)
writes:
>I doubt seriously if you have ever seen an airgun pellet. All of them
>are already hollow based - there would not be any need to drill anything.
some of them just have a big enough impression in the back end to fit
around the pin that pushes them into place.. they arent really hollow..
just have a depression in the back
Jeff Knox
ea...@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland) wrote:
*snip*
>using pellet guns .177 calliber and need some
>ideas on making some ammunition or something to put on the pellets to give
>them a little flash when they hit the target (solid bricks),
*snip*
I was curious about this, and have been thinking. The ideas proposed
so far have been things to do to the _pellets_ like you asked for, but
would it be easier to do something to the target? Such as maybe
sprinkling some flash powder on the bricks or something. I don't know
what flash powder is made of (anyone know?) but if you coated the
bricks with it, I imagine you might get a nice result. I don't even
know if "flash powder" is the correct term, I'm thinking of the stuff
that flash paper is coated with, you know, the stuff magicians use
that burns real real quick.
Before 400 other people state that I know nothing about explosives or
pyrotechnics, lemme make it easy for you. YES, I know nothing about
the subjects, but I am just brainstorming here, hopefully for someone
else with the proper knowledge to pick up on it.
Jeff
Bill Nelson
DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
: Acetone Peroxide: Scientifically called "Triacetone Peroxide" is made
: by adding pure acetone (CH3COCH3) to 50% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), and
: using
: 30% Hydrochloric acid (HCL) as a catalyst. One could also use Sulphuric
: Acid of Spec. Gravity 1.82 (plus minus), but then in small amounts. The
Did your reference tell you if that produced the dimeric or trimeric
form? Did it tell you what happens if you remove the entrained water?
All these can make great differences in the sensitivity of the explosive.
Some forms are far more sensitive than what you listed.
... deleted ...
: for? Oh, by the way Harry, HMTD stands for 'Hexa-methylenetriperoxide
: diamine' which is a purely organic exposive (that I won't tell you how
: to make, 'cause you'll probably blow yourself up if your hand is as
: quick as your tounge..) and I prefer it because it isn't as sensitive as
: AP, the drawback being that it is fine like talcum powder.
I suspect that Harry knows quite well how to make such trivial explosives.
Just a guess, as I have never asked him.
: Oh, by the way, I don't know what '.177' is because here in South Africa
: we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
: still quoted in Imperial...
It is an international standard for both airguns and small calibre
firearms. The archaic system is still used, even with the conversion
to metric.
Bill
Mike Brown
DooDaa wrote:
> These crystals are aromatic
What's the structure of this thing? I would not have thought it
to be aromatic.
> we've progressed to the Metric system
I would call it change, not progress.
Mike
DooDaa
Hi there!
The pellets that we get from cafe's etc. in SA are "Marksman" brand
(British I think) and are often closed from the "waist" down. When they
are drilled, the waist also expands slightly, and one can get a hell of
a lot more in the back than without drilling. 10 times is a bit of an
exaggeration I know, but just to make a point. The rest is all true, I
assure you. I'm not another (ex) HK.
Cheers
DD
DooDaa
Mike Brown wrote:
> What's the structure of this thing? I would not have thought it
> to be aromatic.
I mean that they have a sharp, irritating smell (aroma). Not as in
benzine rings...
-DD
the pope (tm)
The Silent Observer wrote:
>
>
> FWIW, .177 inch caliber is approximately 4.5mm and commonly quoted as
> such -- as mentioned, it's the international standard small caliber for
> air guns; there are also two less common larger calibers: 5 mm, sold only
> by (AFAIK) Benjamin in the United States, and 5.5 mm or .22 caliber, the
> same bore diameter as a rifle chambered for 5.56mm NATO ammunition.
>
btw beeman makes
1.77 , 20 , 22 , and 25 cal air guns.
beeman products are sold world wide.
(and 5.56 doesnt = the 22 cal bore. check the sami specs)
The exploding pellet thing was done over 10 years ago,
the trick is to have something that goes off on impact,
but won't go off under acceleration.
btw i suggest that you experment with a few different
matirals, and then once you've found one that 'works'.
use a solvent to help you get the stuff into the pellet,
use a pellet with thin walls/head, and that
has been 'sized' ie, one that wont deform much when
its fired.
you can seal the base of the pellet/mixture with 'crazy glue'
that 'should' keep the mixture with in the pellet.
If you accelerate the pellet to quiclky,
it will go off in the bore, and can come out going
at/over 1200 fps.
not something i'd be aiming at some one i liked.
if they do work, they make a very small snap, and only
make a little bit of light... not impressive at all..
in short not worth the effort.
now if your going for a 'movie like effect' i suggest
you make up some 'dust balls'...
they are about 3/4 od, and are a small shell of
plaster of paris, with some tightly packed 'dust' inside
(chose your color).
Have a bunch of frends throw this agenst the walls
and you will get an effect that is pretty belive able
(for home movies).
you can also use a sling shot, but the 'balls' might break up
before impact.
-rbn
Rick Cook
DooDaa wrote:
>Geez, not you TOO! By your other replies to other posts I imagined >you
to be a level headed guy, now this, TUT TUT.
>
>Besides, you need a really thin stomper to get past the constrition to
>compact the explosive, so why not just drill it bigger?
There appears to be some miscommunication here.
I dug out a .177 pellet and have it sitting on my desk as I type this.
There is a solid center to the pellet, but it is quite constricted by the
pellet's very narrow waist, which you would hit if you drilled very far (I
haven't gone out to the shop to get a caliper and other measuring tools.)
As a rough estimate I'd say you could increase the internal volumne by
about 2X by very careful drilling, but that would be it.
Now I'm not totally familar with South African measuring systems, but in
the rest of the English-speaking world (ie, the US, Canada, Ireland,
England, Australia) that I am familar with, firearms are cited in their
traditional units (caliber for "English-speaking" firearms, usually, metric
for Continential -- with the usual welter of exceptions). Further, as I
recall, international air rifle competitions are commonly shot with .177
and so specified. So it seems a South African would refer to a .177 pellet
by that name. Now there is a somewhat larger pellet, .22, which is also
commonly used by air rifles. However the overall appearence is the same (I
don't have one here for detailed comparison and have to rely on memory.)
In short, your claim as stated is rather unlikely. However that might also
be the result of unclear communication. Would you care to clarify?
--RC
Douglas Ready
> ...
>Well, instead of flaming everyone that sends genuine posts,
>why not TRY it,
>I guarantee you that it works.
> ...
BRAVO!
Great to see some "new blood" in this group!
I mean like it was getting really boring "listening"
to those old academic fart-knockers ( I like that
expression ... not sure about the meaning or
derivation, but it sounds nice ) argue about
oxygen surplus or deficiency, brisance, visco-
elasticity, and all sorts of other arcane
"professional" stuff.
This thread about making explosive projectiles
to fire from the old Daisy BB gun is a refreshing
change. My hat is off to you guys! I have always
considered myself a fairly "been there, done that"
dude, but even I must humbley admit to having
learned a lot of new stuff from this thread.
BTW: What's a "dickwad"? Another expression
with a nice sound to it ... any amateur
Bill Safires out there to enlighten on
the etymology, correct usage, etc.?
Have FUN!
/\/\../\/\
`' Beavis
Harry H Conover
DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
:
: Well, I 'C' that Harry is very friendly...
: Perhaps this will re-assure you:
: by adding pure acetone (CH3COCH3) to 50% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), and
: using
: 30% Hydrochloric acid (HCL) as a catalyst. One could also use Sulphuric
: Acid of Spec. Gravity 1.82 (plus minus), but then in small amounts. The
: excess of 100% the original amount of acetone precipitates in a white,
: water-insoluable mass. These crystals are aromatic and called Acetone
: Peroxide to the lay-person. Reported to detonate at about 5200m/s,
: these crystals are extremely volatile (ie. dissapear after a few days if
: not confined) and oxidise iron quickly. They can easily be set off by a
: 2kg weight falling only 4cm, or by a hammer blow. Moderately friction
: sensitive and it burns with a 'whump' when lit in *small* amounts.
: Detonates if even slightly confined, or if lit in small amounts.
: Considered by the military to be too sensitive and unstable for use in
: detonators. So, Harry thats the Peroxy bit, anthing else you're angling
: diamine' which is a purely organic exposive (that I won't tell you how
: to make, 'cause you'll probably blow yourself up if your hand is as
: quick as your tounge..) and I prefer it because it isn't as sensitive as
: AP, the drawback being that it is fine like talcum powder.
And what exactly is this supposed to reassure me on -- your
ability to extract from the published literature and quote it with
your added amplifications?
:
: Oh, by the way, I don't know what '.177' is because here in South Africa
: we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
: still quoted in Imperial...
Well, South Africa has most certainly progressed...and you have my
sincere congratulations for this.
Evidently, however, technology is not one of the 'progressed' areas
since essentally all Western textbooks contain the required conversion
constants, so most technical literates are aware of such conversions.
In this case, .177 Cal represents a bore diameter of .177 Inch.
Any educated person will be able to inform you that an
Inch is approximately equal to 2.54 Cm. I leave the balance
of the conversion to your able mind.
Harry C.
ps. I have spent time in your fair nation, so there's no need
to 'play the role' for me. I KNOW what SA is! (Saldhana
Bay, circa 1974...an exerience I do not care to repeat in
this lifetime, or the next!)
Bill Nelson
GothicMoos (gothi...@aol.com) wrote:
: In article <559l4c$7...@bashir.peak.org>, bi...@PEAK.ORG (Bill Nelson)
: writes:
Thanks for the update. I am surprised that I have not run across such
beasties.
Bill
Bill Nelson
Jeff Knox (elwood...@mindspring.com) wrote:
: I was curious about this, and have been thinking. The ideas proposed
: so far have been things to do to the _pellets_ like you asked for, but
: would it be easier to do something to the target? Such as maybe
: sprinkling some flash powder on the bricks or something. I don't know
: what flash powder is made of (anyone know?) but if you coated the
: bricks with it, I imagine you might get a nice result. I don't even
: know if "flash powder" is the correct term, I'm thinking of the stuff
: that flash paper is coated with, you know, the stuff magicians use
: that burns real real quick.
It is best to not even shoot the pellets at a brick wall - or anything
else where they can bounce. I have seen them travel a surprisingly long
distance, when that occurred.
Flash paper is not coated with anything. It is nitrated cellulose, and
does not need an external oxidizer.
Bill
Bill Nelson
DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
: The reason that I use HCL to make the AP is that HCL makes a less
: sensitive explosive, than if one uses H2SO4 as a catalyst. Do you have
: any accurate info regarding the explosive properties of acetone
: peroxide, because I have been unable to find anything on the amount of
: gas evolved, % strength compared to TNT, sensitivity comparisons etc.
: Any info of this nature would be appreciated.
The characteristics of the peroxide depend very much on whether it is
the dimer or trimer (or a mixture of both), as well as the percentage
of entrained moisture.
It is a rather poor initiator of secondary explosives.
For information, see PATR 2700 Vol 1. If that is not available, look it
up in Chemical Extracts, which has much interesting information, not only
on explosives.
Bill
DooDaa
Bill Nelson wrote:
> It is best to not even shoot the pellets at a brick wall - or anything
> else where they can bounce. I have seen them travel a surprisingly > long distance, when that occurred.
>
> Bill
Yip, tell me about bounce, my throat knows all about it. HINT: Don't
shoot a golf ball with a pellet gun !!! You know what kids are like...
-DD
Leper
bi...@PEAK.ORG (Bill Nelson) wrote:
>DooDaa (Doo...@tick.toc) wrote:
>: I don't know what .177 cal is, but I have made very successful exploding
>: pellets for a normal pellet gun by drilling the pellet from the BACK
>: with a metal-boring drill bit (in a elec screwdriver of course!!!) that
>: is a *little bit* thinner than the constriction of the pellet. I drill
>: a nice hole (but make sure the pellet keeps firm and does not puncture
>I doubt seriously if you have ever seen an airgun pellet. All of them
>are already hollow based - there would not be any need to drill anything.
>Bill
Not all of them are hollow based.
Pat Kelley
Why not opt for realism? Despite what you may see from
Hollywood, bullets hitting a brick wall do not produce flashy
showers of sparks, just puffs of dust, a lot of noise, and a
lot of spalling. Shouldn't be too difficult to arrange.
--
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Pat Kelley (man...@flash.net)
"I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Andy Dingley
The moving finger of dfr...@delphi.com (Douglas Ready) having
written:
>I mean like it was getting really boring "listening"
>to [...] all sorts of other arcane
>"professional" stuff.
No problem, just scoot off to another universe where the rules are
simple, laid out before you like MTV and less "boring".
In this universe, power over chemistry comes from the understanding of
it. Some of us don't find this at all "boring".
> Have FUN!
> /\/\../\/\
> `' Beavis
Sometimes I wonder why anyone would pick a name like "Beavis".
Not today though.
--
Millinerism: The belief that the world will end in the year 2000,
in a plague of hats
The Silent Observer
> > /\/\../\/\
> > `' Beavis
>
> Sometimes I wonder why anyone would pick a name like "Beavis".
> Not today though.
He probably just didn't want to admit he was a Butthead...
ominus
In article <9611021034593...@delphi.com>, dfr...@delphi.com says...
.
>This thread about making explosive projectiles
>to fire from the old Daisy BB gun is a refreshing
>change. My hat is off to you guys! I have always
Please note that these projectiles are for Air guns, not BB guns!
-DD
William H. Ivey
Many air guns that chamber .177 pellets also handle BBs - Crosman
pump-action rifles come to mind. (They'll also chamber small pistol
primers, but they aren't all that reliable as exploding pellets and
they can leave nasty stains on masonry, not to mention spitting that
little anvil god-knows-where. :-) -Wm
Anthony Mizon
In article <327987...@tick.toc>, DooDaa <Doo...@tick.toc> writes
>> Fer Sure you have!
>>
>> Methinks you have done nothing more than to read this newsgroup for
>> a week or two, and then expound on your imagninative fantasy....
>>
>> Next time:
>>
>> Learn what a .177 airgun pellet is...
>>
>> Learn what Acetone Peroxide is...
>>
>> Then, repent for your original, silly, fantasy post and post a retraction.
>>
>> Harry C.
>
>Perhaps this will re-assure you:
>
>Acetone Peroxide: Scientifically called "Triacetone Peroxide" is made
>by adding pure acetone (CH3COCH3) to 50% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), and
>using
>30% Hydrochloric acid (HCL) as a catalyst. One could also use Sulphuric
>Acid of Spec. Gravity 1.82 (plus minus), but then in small amounts. The
>mixture will boil if left un-cooled, and after about 1 hour a yield in
>excess of 100% the original amount of acetone precipitates in a white,
>water-insoluable mass. These crystals are aromatic and called Acetone
>Peroxide to the lay-person. Reported to detonate at about 5200m/s,
>these crystals are extremely volatile (ie. dissapear after a few days if
>not confined) and oxidise iron quickly. They can easily be set off by a
>2kg weight falling only 4cm, or by a hammer blow. Moderately friction
>sensitive and it burns with a 'whump' when lit in *small* amounts.
>Detonates if even slightly confined, or if lit in small amounts.
>Considered by the military to be too sensitive and unstable for use in
>detonators. So, Harry thats the Peroxy bit, anthing else you're angling
>for? Oh, by the way Harry, HMTD stands for 'Hexa-methylenetriperoxide
>diamine' which is a purely organic exposive (that I won't tell you how
>to make, 'cause you'll probably blow yourself up if your hand is as
>quick as your tounge..) and I prefer it because it isn't as sensitive as
>AP, the drawback being that it is fine like talcum powder.
>
>we've progressed to the Metric system (ie: mm,cm,ml etc), and calibre is
>still quoted in Imperial...
>
>
>Cheers
>DD.
What an absolute load of crap.
--
Anthony Mizon
Charles Myers UCS
In article <55t9vs$5...@news1.saix.net>, ominus <omi...@igubu.saix.net> wrote:
>In article <9611021034593...@delphi.com>, dfr...@delphi.com says.
>>to fire from the old Daisy BB gun is a refreshing
>>change. My hat is off to you guys! I have always
>
>Please note that these projectiles are for Air guns, not BB guns!
>
I have a Webley Tempest, and would love to know how to make these exploding
pellets, if it works. I missed the thread. Would anyone be kind enough to
send me the particulars. Thanks in advance.
Charles Myers
cha...@umbc.edu
Michael Brown
Charles Myers UCS wrote:
> I have a Webley Tempest, and would love to know how to make these exploding
> pellets, if it works. I missed the thread. Would anyone be kind enough to
> send me the particulars. Thanks in advance.
Sorry Charlie, the only thing you missed was a load of bullshit.
As I recall, it involved pressing a pressure sensitive composition
into a hallowed out pellet. I think we did decide, however, that
English units are better than SI ;)
The Silent Observer
Charles Myers UCS wrote:
>
> In article <55t9vs$5...@news1.saix.net>, ominus <omi...@igubu.saix.net> wrote:
> >In article <9611021034593...@delphi.com>, dfr...@delphi.com says.
> >>This thread about making explosive projectiles
> >>to fire from the old Daisy BB gun is a refreshing
> >>change. My hat is off to you guys! I have always
> >
> >Please note that these projectiles are for Air guns, not BB guns!
> >
> >-DD
>
> pellets, if it works. I missed the thread. Would anyone be kind enough to
> send me the particulars. Thanks in advance.
I've seen various exploding pellet schemes, none of which were worth
much. The best item I've seen in this genera was to simply load up a
pistol primer (.177 air guns will chamber a .175 diameter Small Pistol
size primer, while .22 air guns will happily shoot a .210 diameter Large
Pistol primer) and shoot it, cup forward, at a hard surface. I found
that the primers would tumble after about 15 feet (something that might
be improved by putting a single wrap of teflon plumbers tape on them to
take the rifling in the bore), but within that would reliably fire on
impact, with a force that would drive the cup about rim-deep in solid
pine, and with the unpleasant side effect of shooting the tiny,
sharp-edges anvil in some semi-random direction, but generally toward the
shooter, at unknown but probably high velocity.
One might be able to improvise something better by using cyanoacrylate
(super glue) to attach the primer, anvil forward, either to a stock
pellet or to a piece of plastic of appropriate diameter -- both to take
the rifling and to act as "vanes" or "fins" in flight to keep the primer
traveling with the correct orientation. The result will still shoot the
(in this case) cup back at you, though...
Alex & Matt Carnegie
Could you send me the info too?
Thanks.
Alex Carnegie
carn...@dircon.co.uk
Charles Myers UCS <cha...@umbc.edu> wrote in article
<56atrh$m...@umbc7.umbc.edu>...
> In article <55t9vs$5...@news1.saix.net>, ominus <omi...@igubu.saix.net>
wrote:
> >In article <9611021034593...@delphi.com>, dfr...@delphi.com
says.
> >>This thread about making explosive projectiles
> >>to fire from the old Daisy BB gun is a refreshing
> >>change. My hat is off to you guys! I have always
> >
> >Please note that these projectiles are for Air guns, not BB guns!
> >
> >-DD
>
> I have a Webley Tempest, and would love to know how to make these
exploding
> pellets, if it works. I missed the thread. Would anyone be kind enough to
> send me the particulars. Thanks in advance.
>
> Charles Myers
> cha...@umbc.edu
>
>
>
Michael Brown
Alex Carnegie wrote:
> Could you send me the info too?
Alex, pressing a pressure sensitive explosive without
it exploding should be a tip off that the thread was
a load of bullshit. I guess if you missed the thread
you wouldn't know that.
I wonder if I'll get another FUCK YOU IT WORKS!!!
message from the moron that started the whole thing.
Harry H Conover
Michael Brown (mdbr...@uiuc.edu) wrote:
:
: I wonder if I'll get another FUCK YOU IT WORKS!!!
: message from the moron that started the whole thing.
You got one too? That makes two of us.
Obviously this tells us one of two things:
1. We're both wrong.
2. The original poster is such a f**kwit that he lacks
sufficient brains to even realize it!
I'd vote for 2 being the situation.
Harry C.
Michael Brown
Michael Brown wrote:
> I wonder if I'll get another FUCK YOU IT WORKS!!!
> message from the moron that started the whole thing.
Well, what do you know...another FUCK YOU IT WORKS!!!
message from dickless...and more threats of a snail mail
bomb.
Mike
The Silent Observer
I presume the bomb threats have been forwarded, headers intact, to
someone at fbi.gov? Even if we can't figure out who it really is, they
can...and for a mail bomb threat, they will.
Stacey Cherwonak
: Alex Carnegie
: carn...@dircon.co.uk
: >
I've made these things with Small Rifle or Pistol Primers (.175"
diameter), just by gluing the primer onto the head of a pellet. On
impact, the primer will go off, but you should ALWAYS wear shooting
glasses, even without using the pellet/primer combo; I've had the primer
throw the pellet straight back at me. You should also only use these in a
break-barrel gun, because they're too long to work in other action types.
Stacey C.