5000 Watt Gen Head on 4 HP engine?
Ulysses
I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda engine
that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000 watt
generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will this
work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional weight
of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing to
remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
better ask you guys first.
Thanks.
George Ghio
shaft then you can forget it right now.
If it is a tapered shaft you can forget it after you find it doesn't work.
Steve Spence
You will be able to get 2kw from that 5kw gen head on a 4hp engine.
--
Steve Spence
Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
Steve Spence
And why can't he use pulleys and a belt?
Me
Steve Spence <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote:
> George Ghio wrote:
> > What does the output shaft on the 4hp look like, if it is a parallel
> > shaft then you can forget it right now.
> >
> > If it is a tapered shaft you can forget it after you find it doesn't work.
> >
> > Ulysses wrote:
> >
> >> Hi.
> >>
> >> I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
> >> currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda engine
> >> that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
> >> watt
> >> generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will this
> >> work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
> >> weight
> >> of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing to
> >> remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
> >> better ask you guys first.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
>
> And why can't he use pulleys and a belt?
That's easy to answer Steve....Because George didn't think of that
idea, first.....Now what stupid idea will SolarFart come up with......
that is the real question......
I would say that you might actually be able to pull 2Kw from a 5Kw
Genend powered by a 4 HP Gasoline Powered engine, IF the baseload
of just turning, the said genend, doesn't use more than one HP.
Me
George Ghio
It is always nice to hear the voice of ignorance.
There is no reason at all, as long as he has access to a lathe to
machine a shaft to fit the gen head and has the ability to set up the
bearing block(2 bearings) to support the new shaft at the gen head not
to mention the extra losses of belt friction and doesn't mind flogging
his Honda to death.
Why do you think that a 10Hp(7500W) engine is used to run a 5000W
generator?
I would be surprised if he could manage 1500 watts with the Honda given
the weight of the generators armature.
Sort of makes a new 2000W generator look appealing.
You really should just stick to grease
Solar Flare
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in
message news:43f0c4be$1...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
Richard W.
> > Hi.
> >
> > I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
> > currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda engine
> > that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
watt
> > generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will this
> > work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
weight
> > of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing
to
> > remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
> > better ask you guys first.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
>
> You will be able to get 2kw from that 5kw gen head on a 4hp engine.
>
The Honda engines are rated at 4 hp intermittent, which means it's really
about a 2.5 to 3 hp continuous use.
I had kinda the same thing happen to me. I have a 3200 watt generator end
that takes a tapered shaft. Originally it had a 6 hp Tecumseh engine on it.
Well I didn't have an engine for it. Then I was given an almost new 5.5
Honda engine with a taper shaft. I thought I had it made when I put it
together. When I fired it up and plugged in a light bulb it worked. Then I
wanted to see how it did with a small 1500 watt heater turned on high. It
lugged down and the voltage dropped. I then set the heat on 1,000 watts and
the engine picked up speed. Later I found out the Honda engine was rated at
5.5 hp for intermittent use and not continuos use. I still have it and it's
hasn't been used since. Only because I got a 5,000 watt generator since
then.
Steve Spence
> Ah, the usual suspect #2.
> It is always nice to hear the voice of ignorance.
>
> There is no reason at all, as long as he has access to a lathe to
> machine a shaft to fit the gen head and has the ability to set up the
> bearing block(2 bearings) to support the new shaft at the gen head not
> to mention the extra losses of belt friction and doesn't mind flogging
> his Honda to death.
>
> Why do you think that a 10Hp(7500W) engine is used to run a 5000W
> generator?
>
> I would be surprised if he could manage 1500 watts with the Honda given
> the weight of the generators armature.
>
> Sort of makes a new 2000W generator look appealing.
>
> You really should just stick to grease
>
>
LOL, wow george, you really like to show your ignorance. the gen head
already has a shaft that will fit a pulley, and you can spin it with
your hand with no load on it, the weight is insignificant for this
application. We took a 5kw gen head off a blown Briggs, and belt drove
it from a hatz 10hp diesel. here was no machining or lathework
necessary. especially no bearing blocks. the belt friction losses are
easily covered by the 1kw = 2hp ROT, so his 4hp engine will allow him to
pull 2kw from the gen head. If he tries to pull much more, he will slip
belts or stall the engine.
Try talking about something you have actually done.
Steve Spence
> "Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in message
> news:43f0c4be$1...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
>
>>Ulysses wrote:
>>
>>>Hi.
>>>
>>>I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
>>>currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda engine
>>>that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
>
> watt
>
>>>generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will this
>>>work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
>
> weight
>
>>>of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing
>
> to
>
>>>remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
>>>better ask you guys first.
>>>
>>>Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>You will be able to get 2kw from that 5kw gen head on a 4hp engine.
>>
>
>
> The Honda engines are rated at 4 hp intermittent, which means it's really
> about a 2.5 to 3 hp continuous use.
Well, that's a horse of a different color. I'm basing my statements on
continuous not intermittent. I've never worked with an engine with hp
rated intermittently. what's that duty cycle?
Ulysses
> George Ghio wrote:
> > What does the output shaft on the 4hp look like, if it is a parallel
> > shaft then you can forget it right now.
> >
> > If it is a tapered shaft you can forget it after you find it doesn't
work.
> >
> > Ulysses wrote:
> >
> >> Hi.
> >>
> >> I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
> >> currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda
engine
> >> that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
> >> watt
> >> generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will
this
> >> work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
> >> weight
> >> of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing
to
> >> remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
> >> better ask you guys first.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
>
> And why can't he use pulleys and a belt?
The part that I'm sure of is that the alternator (armature) will fit on the
tapered shaft of the Honda engine. I'm *pretty* sure the spacing for the
mounting plate screws for the stator is the same too.
Ulysses
"Richard W." <raw...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5r-dnc5liKNwzmze...@scnresearch.com...
You also have to realize that some gen heads that output 240 volts are are
rated at, say, 5000 watts are 2500 watts for each end at 120 volts. I
suspect it's possible to squeeze a bit more out but probably not a lot more.
!500 watts may have been exceeding the rating of that particular end of the
generator.
Meanwhile, I put it all together and I'm about ready to go start it up,
adjust the voltage, and see what happens. Everything fit together just fine
i.e. the tapers on the shafts were the same and the only modification I had
to make was add one extra washer to the bolt that hold on the rotor (and add
a support under the gen head as the Honda engine is a bit shorter than the
Tecumseh 10 HP it is being switched with.
George Ghio
While "some" gen heads do have a shaft on the drive side the majority do
not. They have a tapered hole which fits the tapered output shaft on the
motor. There is a through bolt which holds the gen head on the taper.
The gen head does not have a bearing on the driven end as it relies on
the crank shaft bearings for support.
It is also questionable as to whether or not the two motors in question
would have the same size output shafts. Not likely.
It seems that your experience is restricted to a single generator.
Stick to your grease.
Solar Flare
Stick to arguments that don't make you look like a
fool.
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in
message news:43f1ed1d$1...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
wmbjk
wrote:
>Misinformation is the hallmark if the usual suspects.
No George, most misinformation in these groups comes from you. I think
you must average about one serious blunder per week, your comment
about needing a lathe the latest. Why didn't you just wait for the OP
to report on the fit instead of blundering again?
>While "some" gen heads do have a shaft on the drive side the majority do
>not.
Baloney.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45416
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=8795&R=8795
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=9040&R=9040
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=21008&R=21008
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006021418410339&item=6-979&catname=water
>It is also questionable as to whether or not the two motors in question
>would have the same size output shafts. Not likely.
Wrong again George, the OP has already posted that the shafts mated
up. All that's left now is to wait for him to tell us whether or not
5hp was sufficient. It'll be close.
>It seems that your experience is restricted to a single generator.
Projecting again eh George?
Wayne
Ulysses
electric coffee maker. No problem running the 650 watt coffee maker and a
battery charger on 2 amps. The problem is that the "electronic" coffee
maker kept shutting off. This may be due to a bad extention cord but I'm
not ruling out frequency as I do not yet have a frequency meter. I also
connected an electric heater and tried it on the 750, 1000, and 1500 watt
settings. No problem on the lower settings but it did not like the high
setting and the engine was bogging down so I immediately disconnected it.
Total with no problem was about 1700 watts, more or less.
For comparison's sake I next tried it on my 1/2 HP air compressor. My Honda
eu2000 will barely run it. My Coleman Pulse 1850 would not. This ran it
easily.
I next tried it out on my 13,500 BTU AC on my travel trailer. The Honda
will barely run it and will shut down when the compressor stops and
restarts. The Coleman would not run it at all. This ran it easily and had
no problem when the compressor stopped and restarted. The engine slowed
down momentarily when it started (no more than on a real 5000 watt
generator) and immediately recovered.
Next I ran my RV microwave which is rated at about 1350 watts and is very
particular about input voltage and frequency etc. With most cheap
generators and inverters it takes a long time to heat and is useless for
such things as microwave popcorn. I put in a cup of water and it was very
hot after 90 seconds. It seems as good as with the Honda eu2000.
For those who doubted that this whole thing would even go together the
mounting holes on the engine, the taper on the driveshafts, and threads on
the shafts for attaching the rotor were both the same. They are also the
same on the B&S engine that was once on my Coleman 1850. The original
Tecumseh 10 HP engine has a longer drive (crank) shaft and required a spacer
for this particular generator head which was a replacement for the POS
Homelite head that it originally came with. J609A is the tapered shaft
designation and I believe (but I may be wrong) that J609B designates the
same taper but with a longer shaft.
Now it remains to be seen if it will use considerably less gas that with a
10 HP engine for a comparable load. For one thing the little Honda engine
almost always starts with one pull. The Tecumseh usually takes about 3
pulls on a nice warm day and about 25-50 pulls if it's below 50 F. On those
days I always pulled out the spark plug, cleaned it, and poured a tiny bit
of gasoline in there. It helps.
"Ulysses" <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11v4gfe...@corp.supernews.com...
George Ghio
wmbjk wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 09:10:32 +1100, George Ghio <A...@nomailhere.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Misinformation is the hallmark if the usual suspects.
>
>
> No George, most misinformation in these groups comes from you. I think
> you must average about one serious blunder per week, your comment
> about needing a lathe the latest. Why didn't you just wait for the OP
> to report on the fit instead of blundering again?
Foaming at the mouth rant
>
>
>>While "some" gen heads do have a shaft on the drive side the majority do
>>not.
>
>
> Baloney.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45416
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=8795&R=8795
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=9040&R=9040
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=21008&R=21008
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006021418410339&item=6-979&catname=water
>
>
>>It is also questionable as to whether or not the two motors in question
>>would have the same size output shafts. Not likely.
>
>
> Wrong again George, the OP has already posted that the shafts mated
> up. All that's left now is to wait for him to tell us whether or not
> 5hp was sufficient. It'll be close.
My statement was correct in that it raised the distinct possibility that
the shafts may not be the same size. This also is supported by my first
post which said:
If it is a tapered shaft you can forget it after you find it doesn't work.
Still waiting on performance report.
Also note that Usual suspect # 1 does not even know that the OP has
claimed a 4Hp engine not 5
>
>
>>It seems that your experience is restricted to a single generator.
>
>
> Projecting again eh George?
No, Usual suspect #2 claimed one experience in his post. i.e.; We took a
Richard W.
> Richard W. wrote:
> > "Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in message
> > news:43f0c4be$1...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> >
> >>
> >
> >
really
> > about a 2.5 to 3 hp continuous use.
>
> Well, that's a horse of a different color. I'm basing my statements on
> continuous not intermittent. I've never worked with an engine with hp
> rated intermittently. what's that duty cycle?
>
I have no idea, since I don't have any paper work for it. Although I would
think continuous at the lower hp.
At work we build hydraulic power units. Standard model is the 18 hp V two
cylinder. The optional engine is a Honda and the 18 hp Honda won't keep up,
so we use a 20 hp V two. Same thing here also, The Hondas have the hp rated
for intermitmittant use. So we had to use the bigger engine.
http://www.stanley-hydraulic-tools.com/Hand%20Held/Power%20units.htm
http://www.stanley-hydraulic-tools.com/Hand%20Held/Handheld%20Main%20Page.htm
Steve Spence
> When did you do it?
>
> Stick to arguments that don't make you look like a
> fool.
>
8 months ago, and I'm not fooling. What specifically do you find fault
with in my implementation, or is this another "I have no idea but it
sounds cool to argue with those who actually do this stuff".
Steve Spence
>
> You also have to realize that some gen heads that output 240 volts are are
> rated at, say, 5000 watts are 2500 watts for each end at 120 volts. I
> suspect it's possible to squeeze a bit more out but probably not a lot more.
> !500 watts may have been exceeding the rating of that particular end of the
> generator.
>
> Meanwhile, I put it all together and I'm about ready to go start it up,
> adjust the voltage, and see what happens. Everything fit together just fine
> i.e. the tapers on the shafts were the same and the only modification I had
> to make was add one extra washer to the bolt that hold on the rotor (and add
> a support under the gen head as the Honda engine is a bit shorter than the
> Tecumseh 10 HP it is being switched with.
>
>
Indeed, most units only have 2 15 amp breakers (1800 watts per circuit),
so it's not possible to pull full wattage on the 120 volt sides. I had
one with a 20 amp 220vac circuit, for 4400 watts, even though it was
labeled a 5500 watt unit with a 6500 watt surge. I never tried pulling
off the 120vac circuits at the same time I was pulling off the 220ac
circuit.
Good luck, and let us know how it went.
Steve Spence
> Misinformation is the hallmark if the usual suspects.
>
> While "some" gen heads do have a shaft on the drive side the majority do
> not. They have a tapered hole which fits the tapered output shaft on the
> motor. There is a through bolt which holds the gen head on the taper.
> The gen head does not have a bearing on the driven end as it relies on
> the crank shaft bearings for support.
>
> It is also questionable as to whether or not the two motors in question
> would have the same size output shafts. Not likely.
>
> It seems that your experience is restricted to a single generator.
>
> Stick to your grease.
>
Mismatched output shafts are not a problem, just get the matching
pulleys. If you have a gen head without a shaft (have not see them, all
the common ones around here have shafts), you could add a shaft with a
plate bolted to the gen head with a bearing. More work. Easier just to
get a inexpensive gen head from northern tool or harbor freight. Many
have bearings on both ends.
Stick to welding george, you're blowing smoke again.
Steve Spence
> No, Usual suspect #2 claimed one experience in his post. i.e.; We took a
> 5kw gen head off a blown Briggs, and belt drove it from a hatz 10hp diesel.
Almost correct. I talked about one experience, I didn't claim I only had
one experience. I didn't mention the many yanmar genset's I built when I
worked at Ferguson Diesels in Bristol PA. Mostly pincor and winco heads.
Single bearing units with a pillow block. Technology has improved in the
last 20 years. No lathe required on those puppies either.
Ulysses
> Richard W. wrote:
> > "Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in message
> > news:43f0c4be$1...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> >
> >>Ulysses wrote:
> >>
> >>>Hi.
> >>>
> >>>I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
> >>>currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda
engine
> >>>that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
> >
> > watt
> >
> >>>generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will
this
> >>>work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
> >
> > weight
> >
> >>>of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing
> >
> > to
> >
> >>>remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
> >>>better ask you guys first.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>You will be able to get 2kw from that 5kw gen head on a 4hp engine.
> >>
> >
> >
> > The Honda engines are rated at 4 hp intermittent, which means it's
really
> > about a 2.5 to 3 hp continuous use.
Huh. I've not heard of that. Most generator heads and inverters are have a
maximum and continuous rating but I don't recall ever seeing that on an
engine, particulary an engine that was designed for generator use. I'm not
quite sure what that means to me (us). I also don't think I've ever ran a
generator at the full rating for an extended period but now that I have too
small of an engine for the size of generator head it sounds like this could
become apparent.
Harry Chickpea
>The Tecumseh usually takes about 3
>pulls on a nice warm day and about 25-50 pulls if it's below 50 F. On those
>days I always pulled out the spark plug, cleaned it, and poured a tiny bit
>of gasoline in there. It helps.
Uh, why not use starting fluid? Carb cleaner will work in a pinch.
George Ghio
Ulysses wrote:
> OK. I started it up and tried it out on the most important thing first:
> electric coffee maker. No problem running the 650 watt coffee maker and a
> battery charger on 2 amps. The problem is that the "electronic" coffee
> maker kept shutting off. This may be due to a bad extention cord but I'm
> not ruling out frequency as I do not yet have a frequency meter. I also
> connected an electric heater and tried it on the 750, 1000, and 1500 watt
> settings. No problem on the lower settings but it did not like the high
> setting and the engine was bogging down so I immediately disconnected it.
> Total with no problem was about 1700 watts, more or less.
>
Electric heater? 750, 1000, 1500 watt.
So 1500 Watts was pushing it? Or was it 1700W more or less? Bit unclear.
After all watts are watts. If it had trouble with the heater at 1500W I
can't see it running 1700W of misc. loads.
Still and all if even 1500W is useful to your needs then you are on a
winner.
You have done well to have everything match as it is as often as not
that things just don't match.
Keep us informed, interesting project.
George
wmbjk
<thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>OK. I started it up and tried it out
<snipped report>
Good report, thanks for taking the time to write it up.
Wayne
andre...@yahoo.com
Ulysses wrote:
<< snip >>
> I next tried it out on my 13,500 BTU AC on my travel trailer. The Honda
> will barely run it and will shut down when the compressor stops and
> restarts. The Coleman would not run it at all. This ran it easily and had
> no problem when the compressor stopped and restarted. The engine slowed
> down momentarily when it started (no more than on a real 5000 watt
> generator) and immediately recovered.
>
The advantage of the 5000 watt alternator even with an undersize engine
is the larger rotating mass and lower electrical resistance then would
normally be found in a 4 HP generator. Makes easy work of starting
surge loads like the AC compressor.
If you get a chance take a look at an original Lister generator. A 5
or 6 HP engine with 2 flywheels each of which is almost 300 lbs, belt
drive to the starter/alternator which also had a fairly large flywheel
alongside the pully. They would start and run a load that would put a
modern 6 HP generator, flat on it's face.
__________
Andre' B.
Ulysses
"George Ghio" <A...@nomailhere.com> wrote in message
news:43f2f...@news.chariot.net.au...
>
>
> Ulysses wrote:
> > OK. I started it up and tried it out on the most important thing first:
> > electric coffee maker. No problem running the 650 watt coffee maker and
a
> > battery charger on 2 amps. The problem is that the "electronic" coffee
> > maker kept shutting off. This may be due to a bad extention cord but
I'm
> > not ruling out frequency as I do not yet have a frequency meter. I also
> > connected an electric heater and tried it on the 750, 1000, and 1500
watt
> > settings. No problem on the lower settings but it did not like the high
> > setting and the engine was bogging down so I immediately disconnected
it.
> > Total with no problem was about 1700 watts, more or less.
> >
>
> Electric heater? 750, 1000, 1500 watt.
>
> So 1500 Watts was pushing it? Or was it 1700W more or less? Bit unclear.
Sorry about being unclear. That was 1500 watts in addition to the 650 watt
coffee maker plus a battery charger charging at 2 amps for a total of around
2300 watts on both ends of the gen head. It was fine at around 1700 watts.
>
> After all watts are watts. If it had trouble with the heater at 1500W I
> can't see it running 1700W of misc. loads.
>
> Still and all if even 1500W is useful to your needs then you are on a
> winner.
I was very dissappointed with my old Coleman Pulse 1850 that was struggling
at 1500 watts which was it's continuos rating. They are really pushing
their ratings if you ask me. This configuration very easily will handle
that load with the same HP engine.
Ulysses
"Harry Chickpea" <hchickpe...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:43f8ac1f...@news.east.earthlink.net...
Well, I have two cans and nothing comes out of either when I push the
nozzle. My experience with carb cleaner is that it kills the engine. It
would not have occured to me to try it for gettting an engine started.
Ulysses
<andre...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1140012267....@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I've read a bit here and there about the Listers but didn't really know what
they were. Now I'll have to look them up.
That makes sense about the larger rotating mass etc.
I forget to mention that when I was running the 13,500 BTU AC on my travel
trailer I was also running a battery charger at 20.5 amps on the other end.
The charger (Vector Smart Charger) was running steady the whole time with
the output constant. It tends to drop considerably if the supply voltage
drops as with an inadequate generator.
Ulysses
> OK. I started it up and tried it out on the most important thing first:
> electric coffee maker. No problem running the 650 watt coffee maker and a
> battery charger on 2 amps. The problem is that the "electronic" coffee
> maker kept shutting off. This may be due to a bad extention cord but I'm
> not ruling out frequency as I do not yet have a frequency meter.
I tried it again with the coffee pot without the extension cord and it
worked fine. I still need to get a frequency meter though.
Solar Flare
Nobody can understand you.
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in
message news:43f28...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
Steve Spence
> Are you just talking nonsense again?
>
> Nobody can understand you.
>
You asked the question (when did I set up the Hatz Generator), I
answered (8 months ago). It's not my fault you have comprehension
issues. Don't project your issues on the rest of the group, they
understand me quite well. You argue a lot with the folks who are
actually accomplishing results, when there is no proof from you that you
have ever touched anything besides a keyboard.
Steve Spence
kWh, and hours, all for $29.
Ulysses
> Ulysses wrote:
> > "Ulysses" <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:11v50bu...@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> >>OK. I started it up and tried it out on the most important thing first:
> >>electric coffee maker. No problem running the 650 watt coffee maker and
a
> >>battery charger on 2 amps. The problem is that the "electronic" coffee
> >>maker kept shutting off. This may be due to a bad extention cord but
I'm
> >>not ruling out frequency as I do not yet have a frequency meter.
> >
> >
> > I tried it again with the coffee pot without the extension cord and it
> > worked fine. I still need to get a frequency meter though.
> >
> >
> a Kill-A-Watt will give you frequency, volts, amps, VA, watts, PF, and
> kWh, and hours, all for $29.
Thanks. I was looking at them on eBay etc. a while back. I don't remember
why I didn't buy one yet though...
My *other* 5000 watt generator (9 HP Honda GX engine) that I use daily for
my 230 volt well pump and, up until just recently, to run my air compressor,
reads only about 101 VAC! When I bought the gen head (Mecc Alte Spa 5000
watt continuous, 6200 surge) that I'm using on the 4 HP engine I was told
that if I adjusted the engine speed to where I got about 124 VAC at no load
then the frequency should be very close. This makes me think the frequency
*must* be way off on the 5000 watt/9 HP generator. It has always had
trouble starting my air compressor on cold mornings but since I only use it
for pumps, saws, etc I guess the frequency must not have been very
important. I bought the thing about 4 or 5 years ago, put oil and gas in
it, and started it up. I never adjusted the engine speed (I do, just in
case you were wondering, clean the air cleaner and adjust the valves and
spark plug when needed).
Solar Flare
out then?
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote in
message news:43f4a...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
Steve Spence
> I guess you just miss Whine's backside since he moved
> out then?
>
Wow, and you thought my post was nonsense. been drinking again?
Dean Hoffman
Steve Spence <ssp...@green-trust.org> wrote:
> George Ghio wrote:
> > What does the output shaft on the 4hp look like, if it is a parallel
> > shaft then you can forget it right now.
> >
> > If it is a tapered shaft you can forget it after you find it doesn't work.
> >
> > Ulysses wrote:
> >
> >> Hi.
> >>
> >> I have a 5000 watt generator head (attached to a 10 HP engine) that is
> >> currently just sitting there as backup. I also have a 4 HP Honda engine
> >> that it will most likely bolt right onto. I have more use for a 2000
> >> watt
> >> generator than I do for a 5000 watt right now. My question is will this
> >> work? Will I be able to get 2000 watts from it or is the additional
> >> weight
> >> of the armature too much for the little engine? It'll take some doing to
> >> remove it from the other engine and reattach it and all so I figure I'd
> >> better ask you guys first.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
>
> And why can't he use pulleys and a belt?
We've taken a couple gensets apart at work after either the
generator or the engine failed. The generator was bolted directly to
the engine. The output shaft bearing of the motor also served as the
input shaft bearing of the generator.
Dean
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George Ghio
And just how much shaft was sticking out of the generator?
Enough to fit a bearing and pulley?
Steve Spence
>>And why can't he use pulleys and a belt?
>
>
> We've taken a couple gensets apart at work after either the
> generator or the engine failed. The generator was bolted directly to
> the engine. The output shaft bearing of the motor also served as the
> input shaft bearing of the generator.
>
> Dean
>
then you take the output shaft and mount it in a pillow block.
or just pick up a 7200 watt gen head from harbor freight that has a
pulley shaft on it already for $369 ...
rsha...@gmail.com
rsha...@gmail.com
ads
keyed shaft. You need to do some hands-on research.
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efficiency = 1790 watts
1. Does the Hoinda engine have a governor to keep the speed and
voltage steady and the frequency at 60Hz (US) or 50Hz (much of the
rest of the world)?
2. Many generator/engine combinations have a special taper ob the
shaft. Have you disassembled the big gen to see if the Honda's
driveshaft will work?
3. Have you measured bolt circles and the like to see if the two
pieces can be attached? Only when swapping the identical engine and
generator head can you make any assumptions about how things might
fit.