"I have a Honda EM5000SX generator I paid $2100
for new 5 years ago. It only has about 10 hours on
it as it's just backup for home. The other day it
gave no output and turns out some mice got inside
and ruined the generator portion. The Honda dealer
where I bought it said it would cost more to replace
the brushes and other components than to just buy a
new generator. . ."
Here's some more quotes on mice damage:
Nov. 21, 1999
" I recently finished rebuilding a (fixing mouse damage)
Honda EFs-5500 generator. . ."
Sep. 24, 1998
"I will need to fab up a metal box to keep the mice out
of the windings. . ."
Jul 30, 2006
"Mice in my shed have eaten away all insulation
from the inside of my EU3000is. Seems the
generator is noticeably louder without the insulation.
I can not find a dealer who can order these two
insulation 'blocks' from Honda. Can someone
please measure both insulation 'blocks' and post
the dimensions? I will try to glue alternative
insulation in its place."
I recently took a box cutter and made a small box cardboard box (out of
a larger one) and put it over my Honda Generator. Then inside the box I
put a can with holes in it filled with naphthalene moth balls.
Now, one problem that I have is those moth balls really smell bad. In
fact, they are stinking up my entire garage. That's a relatively small
problem, though. A bigger potential problem I am wonder about is
whether the fumes from the moth balls might damage the generator. Given
the potency of the gas that those moth balls (napthalene), another
problem, of course, is whether there is a health risk.
Here's an excerpt from something I found on the internet:
"CANCER HAZARD
Naphthalene may be a CARCINOGEN in humans since it has been show to
cause nasal and lung cancer in animals. Many scientists believe there
is no safe level of exposure to a carcinogen."
So, mothballs might not be a great idea, unless you can completely seal
the container. Even so, the question still exists in regard to the
generator. Is napthalene safe for a generator?
Does anyone have any other ideas on how to protect a generator from
mice?
There are sticky pads which will trap mice until you can remove them. And,
there is
a pesticide cake called 'Just one bite' which mice love and which will kill
them.
<H...@nospam.nix> wrote in message
news:n%XMg.24$e66...@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
The box could, for example, be made out of 2" x 2" lumber and
door-screen material.
The proper way to protect it is with fine metal screening covering all
the openings. Keeps out both rodents and many insects. You do not need
to enclose the entire unit, just seal off the problem areas with a fine
mesh, no more than about 1/8" opening size.
Pete C.
I think you are right. Protecting the problem areas or building an
entire box out of fine metal screening is the best and possibly the
only practical solution. I'm not sure why I didn't think of it right
off the bat.
Mine rests on an metal shelf about 4 ft above the floor. You can build your
own with square tubing and plate steel. If you cannot weld , drill holes
and use good bolts with nuts and lock washers. Then attach shelf to the
wall using lag screws. Good luck.
> Does anyone have any other ideas on how to protect a generator from
> mice?
Absurd crossposting reduced.
1/8" hardware cloth, for a protection that can remain in place and will
flow air. Corners, seams, openings need to be tight. Depending on the
generator, this might simply be added to the openings on the generator
case, if that is metal.
For the situation of a small generator (you could pick it up) that's
rarely used, a tight sheetmetal box (again, no gaps, holes, etc) to
store it in and removing it from the box before use might be better.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
I've used D-CON poison and various traps and they were all problematic.
Supposedly, with D-CON, it makes them thirsty and they "go outside to
die". HA! Yeah, right. Sure. Maybe some do. But some (if not all)
do not. And those have a way of rotting in a very unique way; very
distinctive smell. You most likely will not like it. And there's
always the problem of secondary poisoning (cats, dogs, etc. that eat
the poisoned mice/rats).
What I wound up doing, on accident, was getting two stray cats and that
took care of all my problems. I used to have mice that would get into
my house (concrete slab, brick home), too, and that doesn't happen any
more, either. The cats are great and have been a God-send for taking
care of the mice. Of course, I don't have many squirrels anymore,
either, so maybe they took care of more than I needed them to.
One suggestion someone else posted below, if cats are not an option, is
to use a table to support the generator off the floor and prevent
access to the unit (both with smooth legs and with an overhang so that
even if they could climb the legs they couldn't get over the top edge).
That's a great idea, too, but it won't take care of the rest of your
possessions. A simple piece of plate steel and some steel tubing would
work well. Welding it would be the best (or at least fastest) way to
build it. You could try a simple flux-core wire welder if you want the
cheapest (and almost the easiest) way to go (available at Home Depot,
Lowe's, etc.) or stick welder (get an AC/DC unit in case you want to do
different types of welding in the future) also available at Home Depot,
Lowe's, etc. For more money but better results, and, I think, the
easiest welding (if not the strongest but sufficient for this table
idea) get a gas-shielded wire welder (my Millermatic 210 by Miller
Welding cost about 1,500 dollars after paying for the gas, wire, wire
lube, etc.). For larger selection of machines find a place like
Tractor Supply Company (www.tractorsupply.com) or a dedicated welding
shop.
FWIW, HTH.
--HC
FWIW, HTH.
--HC
<hbo...@gte.net> wrote in message
news:1157983892.8...@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
One method would be to mount a winch/hoist above the box to
lift the thing. Another method might be to mount a steel
I beam with a pivot in the middle and attach the box, perhaps
via chains, to one end and a heavy weight on the other to
counter-balance it. The same could be done with a pulley and
counterweight. Pneumatics and screw jacks are possibilities
as well but they would cost money.
Myself, I would probably set the 1/4 steel box aside and
rebuild it out of sheet steel. To the best of my knowledge,
mice have problems chewing through sheet metal.
Anthony
I think I'm going to make something out of quarter-inch hardware cloth like
those little screened food covers that people use when eating outdoors - only
box shaped.
Put a luggage handle on top, and just set it over the gennie like a sewing
machine cover.
--
PeteCresswell
> I think I'm going to make something out of quarter-inch hardware cloth like
> those little screened food covers that people use when eating outdoors - only
> box shaped.
Won't work. 1/4 inch will not stop mice - it will barely slow them down
- they can jam themselves through the holes. You'll have to search a
bit, but keep looking until you find 1/8".
Thanks. Will Do. Knowing that saved me a lot of grief....
--
PeteCresswell
You would be well advised to use eighth inch hardware cloth. Quarter
inch may be too course to keep mice out.
--
Tom Horne
"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
I've never seen 1/8" myself, but I've used two layers of 1/4", offset,
to fake it. Have to be tightly held together of course.
-=s
..get a cat that loves micies. Many do not like the leetle rodents!
Q
Quaoar wrote:
Or 2 cats even !
Graham
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriend...@REMOVETHIS.hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:4509F8F7...@REMOVETHIS.hotmail.com...
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
Start of new thread: "Can you please tell me how to protect my home
generator from cats?" :Oo
get a dog?
So many cats, so few recipes. <sigh>
Is this the story that ends with the line "I dunno why she swallowed the
fly....I guess she'll die"? I've heard it!
Eric Lucas
Bingo! So much for my hardware cloth plans.
Went to the local Target. They didn't have the RubberMaid product, but did
have something about the same size for $12.00. Even has little wheels on the
bottom...
The gennie fits in there with space to spare. What I like about it also is
that, having a nice flat cover, I reclaim the floor space that the gennie
occupies- i.e. I can set a few things on top of it.
Now we'll find out if those little guys have an appetite for polyethylene -)
--
PeteCresswell
>Does anyone have any other ideas on how to protect a generator from
>mice?
FWIW, my next door neighbor had his garden tractor's electrical system
eaten out by mice (no real loss - the tractor was a hangar queen
anyway). that's when the mechanics told him about putting new dryer
sheets in the electrical areas and around the engine.
frankly, i'd go for the moth balls, and when i get back from this
weekend, i think i'm going that way.
of course, last night, i ran out and covered my new tractor with dryer
sheets...
> the tractor was a hangar queen
8^D I've heard that term used as regards Jags, but never a lowly garden
tractor.
> frankly, i'd go for the moth balls, and when i get back from this
> weekend, i think i'm going that way.
I assume you are implying that you prefer the smell of mothballs to that of
dryer sheets. That may be the case after short-term exposure, but the
mothball smell really hangs around and gets into things, and quickly becomes
irritating. Have you read the (probably apocryphal) story about the guy
that thought he would outsmart a squirrel by using mothballs to drive it
away? The story goes that the squirrel got the last laugh by taking all the
mothballs and stashing them in the wall of this guy's house. The smell was
so into intolerable that he had to tear down the wall and clean it out.
Like I said, probably an urban legend, but certainly the purported effect is
plausible.
> of course, last night, i ran out and covered my new tractor with dryer
> sheets...
I wonder if it's the chemicals or the perfumes in the dryer sheets that
repel rodents? If it's the chemicals, than odorless dryer sheets might be
just the ticket.
Eric Lucas
I did the same thing. I had some fertilizer bags and garden soil
sitting in one spot in the garage. Now they sit on top of the storage
container--no loss in floor space. Also, I can use the extra space in
the container for extension cords and oil and the manual and my
maintenance record (in a large freezer bag), etc. Based on the
subsequent posts, maybe I'll throw some dryer sheets in there too.
One word of advice, based on a bad experience some time ago. Don't put
any grass seed in your garage. Mice love the stuff.
> What I wound up doing, on accident, was getting two stray cats and that
> took care of all my problems. I used to have mice that would get into
> my house (concrete slab, brick home), too, and that doesn't happen any
> more, either. The cats are great and have been a God-send for taking
> care of the mice. Of course, I don't have many squirrels anymore,
> either, so maybe they took care of more than I needed them to.
I put my cat food dish neat my generator ;)
--
Free men own guns - www.geocities/CapitolHill/5357/
Just make sure you know where the poor critters are when the generator
starts up.... That housing could be a mighty cozy place to sleep.
Eric Lucas
I had the sad experience of this happening to my old kitty
Patches. She crawled up alongside the warm car engine one cold
winter day and didn't get out when I started the car again. She
stayed there about a mile, then jumped out in heavy traffic. That
was the last chapter of her sweet little life.
Gordon
Yet another example of great minds, processing similar information, arriving at
the same conclusion...-)
--
PeteCresswell
I have replacements, they can't ALL sleep ther;)
>
>"beav" <BEAV...@NETSCAPE.NET> wrote in message
>news:3js7h25asi8qvqus5...@4ax.com...
>
>> the tractor was a hangar queen
>
>8^D I've heard that term used as regards Jags, but never a lowly garden
>tractor.
>
>
>> frankly, i'd go for the moth balls, and when i get back from this
>> weekend, i think i'm going that way.
>
>I assume you are implying that you prefer the smell of mothballs to that of
>dryer sheets. That may be the case after short-term exposure, but the
>mothball smell really hangs around and gets into things, and quickly becomes
>irritating. Have you read the (probably apocryphal) story about the guy
>that thought he would outsmart a squirrel by using mothballs to drive it
>away? The story goes that the squirrel got the last laugh by taking all the
>mothballs and stashing them in the wall of this guy's house. The smell was
>so into intolerable that he had to tear down the wall and clean it out.
>Like I said, probably an urban legend, but certainly the purported effect is
>plausible.
the tractor is in the shed. they can drag those moth balls anywhere
they like. : )
i've got 2 cats and i know how to use them.
>
>
>> of course, last night, i ran out and covered my new tractor with dryer
>> sheets...
>
>I wonder if it's the chemicals or the perfumes in the dryer sheets that
>repel rodents? If it's the chemicals, than odorless dryer sheets might be
>just the ticket.
whatever it takes..
>Eric Lucas
>
5 gallon plastic buckets work well as long as the lid is closed tightly. I
use the ones that come with Costco store brand laundry detergent.
One year, I didn't close the lid tightly enough. A few months later I had a
bucket of seed plus mouse turds. The good news is the seed still sprouted,
and the mouse turds provided the fertilizer.
--
Bill McFadden bil...@agora.rdrop.com http://www.rdrop.com/users/billmc
CAUTION: Don't look into laser beam with remaining eye.
Make them come to you and when trapped they stay put.
Also cover the openings on the generator with tape...no bugs, mice or
other things will crawl in.
Checking the traps on a regular basis is a good excuse to do regular
preventive maintainance on the generator...you DO want the generator to
work when it is needed, don't you?
TMT
> >
> > The proper way to protect it is with fine metal screening covering all
> > the openings. Keeps out both rodents and many insects. You do not need
> > to enclose the entire unit, just seal off the problem areas with a fine
> > mesh, no more than about 1/8" opening size.
> >
> > Pete C.
>
> I think you are right. Protecting the problem areas or building an
> entire box out of fine metal screening is the best and possibly the
> only practical solution. I'm not sure why I didn't think of it right
> off the bat.
I would not screen the critical ventillation openings of the generator
with fine mesh, for fear it will restrict airflow and compromise the
machine.
Either build the box out of mesh (or somethin else) or if you simply
must guard only the generator openings, use the coarsest mesh you think
you can get away with.
Myself, I just invert a plastic tub over the genny when I'm not using
it. It doesn't make a perfect seal with the slab, so the gas vapors
never reach the required richness to be a combustion risk, and they
dissipate quickly when the tub is lifted anyway. I suppose a few vent
holes with fine mesh over them wouldn't hurt.
%MOD%
>
> Myself, I just invert a plastic tub over the genny when I'm not using
> it. It doesn't make a perfect seal with the slab, so the gas vapors
> never reach the required richness to be a combustion risk, and they
> dissipate quickly when the tub is lifted anyway. I suppose a few vent
> holes with fine mesh over them wouldn't hurt.
>
> %MOD%
One thing interesting about Honda generators, incidentally, is that the
manual for the 2000i, requires that the gas tank be drained for
long-term storage. On the otherhand, the 3000i says that the gas tank
should be filled with fresh gas (mixed with conditioner) for long-term
storage. Then before you use it again you are supposed to drain the gas
out and refill it with fresh gas.
It makes you wonder if there is a valid reason for using the two
different methods or if the instructions were simply written by
different engineers.
Maybe the 2000i has a plastic tank and the 3000i has a steel tank? I
dunno.
My plan is not to drain my 2000, leave a minimal amount of gas in the tank, and
just fire it up for a couple hours a few times per year.
If somebody comes back with a warning about condensation, maybe I'd modify that
to keeping the tank full and adding some Stabil - but still running it
periodically.
Come to think of it, I guess the "full" option has the advantage of guaranteeing
that you have at least a few hours worth of gas on hand when the power goes
out...
Can anybody come up with a downside to the "full" option?
--
PeteCresswell
Sta-Bil, evidently, will extend the life of gasoline for 1 year and
they claim that if you use double the amount it will last for two
years. So, you need to be sure that you use it within that period of
time or drain it out and replace it when it gets to old.
It's starting to sound like my best option might be to run it dry before storing
it... and then, to make sure the carb gas stays good, put a cup or half-cup of
gas into it and run it dry again every few months.
That way, my reserve fuel stock gets rotated by running the lawnmower, snow
blower, and so-forth and I avoid the hassle of draining the carb.
--
PeteCresswell
That's exactly where I'm at right now. I ran the gas out of it (that
the dealer put in) while testing it to see how well it works to run the
stuff in my computer/TV/stereo room. It works very well, incidentally,
in ECO mode except for my Samsung ML-1740 laser printer. As soon as I
turned that on, my computer crashed. It does work OK in ECO mode with
my other printer which is an Inkjet.
After that I put a tiny bit more pre-treated gas in and ran it dry
again. That should protect the generator for at least 6 months,
according to Honda. As soon as I get some time, though, and I get my
pre-winter yard work done, I am going to step through Honda's long-term
storage proceedure, if for no other reason than to know how it's done.
I'll be curious to see if any gas runs out of the carburetor after it's
been run dry. If, it doesn't, then there's no sense going through that
procedure, anyway. Then, after that, I'll probably put it in a garbage
bag and suck the air out with a vacuum that I have in the garage and
tie it tight with a couple of nylon, cable tie wraps. If I had any of
those little, moisture-absorbing, silica gel packets, I'd probably put
a couple of those in the bag too.
IMHO, you'd do better to simply run it every month or two.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
I run my PC off of a UPS unit (cost about $150) and that gets around the surge
problem. I swore off my laser printer during gennie use and also revert to an
inkjet.
But even without the laser printer in the loop, either one of our refrigerators
or our freezer will create enough of a surge sometimes to trip the UPS - and,
presumably, crash the PC if it weren't running through the UPS.
--
PeteCresswell
If you have natural gas available at your home, convert to
NG and forget the gasoline problems.
It will probably drain the bowl down to a certain level below which the
jets suck too much air to sustain combusion, leaving a few millimeters
of liquid.
My Yammy 1000 has a drain screw at the lowest point of the bowl. Very
convenient for getting that last bit of liquid out and with it, the
little nasties that may have collected in the bowl. The tiny carb of
this 50cc engine has such small passages that even a little bit of dirt
in a jet can significantly affect the air/fuel mix. Found that out when
I had to run on a mix of straight gas and outboard gas with 50:1 oil
premixed, then the carb dried out over a few months before I could get
back to run the genny again. The oil evidently concentrated in the
carb, but it was not completely redissolved when new gas entered the
carb. Since that episode I always drain the carb completely before long
term storage, using that screw. There's also a shutoff to the carb
inlet, so running dry does not require emptying the tank.
%MOD%
That's great information. Thanks.
Capsaicin cream may work even better on wires, etc., although it's more
expensive.
Eric Lucas
"Bob Ferapples" <lic...@yqahoo.com> wrote in message
news:efati21en9kimnool...@4ax.com...
Eric Lucas
"Bob Ferapples" <lic...@yqahoo.com> wrote in message
news:o1bti2l9oncrkb23l...@4ax.com...
On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 20:52:34 GMT, <luc...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
With the inside "bag" I could put some dryer sheets and some Desiccant
Container Dry. With the outside bag I might be able to put some
mothballs since it should be mostly airtight. Then I could sprinkle
some habanero powder around the generator.
Another thing I've thought about is putting the Honda 3000 cover on
from the bottom. This should cover all the holes. Then I could put some
dryer sheets and some desiccant inside the cover and sprinkle the
habanero around the outside or maybe spray the cover with some sort of
repellant.
Eventually, I think I'll probably build my own custom box.
In my case the generator is in a locked shed. So, a cat couldn't get
in. Hopefully, mice can't get in either, but you never know.
I have thought about storing the generator in my basement in my house.
However, Honda requires that the EU3000 be stored with a full tank of
gas--probably because of the metal gas tank. So, that let's that idea
out.
Don't bank on it. Mice can get through spaces so small that, personally, I'd
have bet the mortgage money it was impossible. Something about being really
flexible and having a skull that's either flat to begin with or able to flatten.
--
PeteCresswell