Dishing bowl?
Avalon
What are you using as a dishing form? Ive seen a dishing bowl on one
site. But on a limited budget its out of the question. can anyone help?
Bear
Ernie Leimkuhler
Make one from lead.
I used the same bowl for years, and with lead you can't accidentally crease the
steel on the rim.
I just found a old casserole pan that had a good size to it, poured in about 2
inches of lead, then dumped it out once it cooled.
Then I used a oxy-acet torch to melt out a bowl shape I liked.
About the curvature of a bowling ball works well.
--
--
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits....
(Albert Einstein)
John O. Kopf
end).
JK
Glenn Lyford
Take a section of hardwood --an unsplit firewood log works well--
about two feet long, more or less, and a foot in diameter or more,
and draw on it several circles. Use a regular straight chisel to
cut in at an angle to the center of the circle. Cut at least one
deeper than you think it should be, and don't worry too much about
the bottom finish where all the angles meet. In use, the edge of
the circle will pound over and become smoother, and you'll do most
of your work just inside the edge, or out in the "open space" above
the hollow. Once you've played with one for a while, you can then
cut more bigger or smaller or more shallow as you see fit. If you
run out of room for circles or wear them out, flip the log over
and start again. Not very elegant, but definitely cheap. And if it
doesn't work out, you can always split it and throw it back on the
woodpile.
Also, I haven't seen anyone mention a sand bag yet. Two pieces of
leather, maybe a foot square, sewn mostly closed and filled with sand,
then stitched the rest of the way. Not actually used one myself, I
had a log...
YMMV,
--Glenn Lyford
vilia kane
tree stump (log) that you bang/ carve/ drill the hollows out of, and use in
conjunction with a "bossing mallet" the stump is traditionally made of
beech, but any hard wood will do except balsa; (mine is an oak stump about 2
1/2ft wide x 18" tall ) and the bossing mallet is usually made from Linden/
Lignum Vitae/ Beech. Any sawmill worth it's salt will sell you a slice of
tree for peanuts. Bossing mallets can cost as little as £3sterling/ $5us.
Dishes are not usually "sunk" on a blocking stump, but "raised" on
stakes, or spun.
Using the blocking stump can be frustrating to the novice as
sinking/blocking has it's own peculiarities! practice with well annealed
copper (from old domestic water heater tanks) or lead (please wear gloves
though-don't forget it is poisonous) untill you can get what you want from
the metal before progressing to cold forging aluminium(anneal by rubbing
soap unto the ally, heat until soap turns black then quench...soap turns
black at 400deg which also happens to be the annealing temperature of
aluminium) or mild steel, as this will save you endless frustration! I am a
silver/goldsmith by trade, and it was part of my training, but it has more
than come in handy as I now work producing arms/ armour/ living history
equipment from 600ad-1100ad for Museums (the British Museum is among my
clients) re-inactors, and film/ TV companies, so you can trust what I say in
this matter.
I'm waffling, but when you obtain a stump (you can knock the holes in with a
ball pein) I will be more than happy to share my experience with you if you
have any problems or questions.
Regards,
Dave
"Avalon" <ava...@indy.net> wrote in message
news:3D57A10A...@indy.net...
vilia kane
filled with sand...a bit like a cushion, but the sand bag can require
greater skill and practice to use well + it wears out too quickly. I only
use the sandbag for supporting awkward shapes/forms, chasing and repousse
work
David Armstrong
telegraph pole turned out on a lathe in a machine shop my father worked in, the
other is the outside of the base of an oxygen bottle (industrial type). The oxy
bottle is nicely smooth on the edges, and you can get one tall enough to stand
on the floor at a comfortable work height. Just pay a friendly machine shop a
case of beer to cut it off square on the band saw. The oxy bottle is very loud
though (dishing cold), not so bad hot. Oh, be sure that the bottle is EMPTY &
THE TAP AT THE TOP IS REMOVED before you cut it.
David.
David Armstrong
with steel though.
On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 12:49:43 GMT, Avalon <ava...@indy.net> wrote:
Avalon
"John O. Kopf" wrote:
> I've seen people using the cut-off bottom of a gas cylinder (the dished
> end).
>
> JK
I have been trying to get ahold of one and can't , tanks around here are hard
to come by.
fugdabug
Make sure you use a solid piece no spalting or easily spit wood. To add
strength simply band around the top and bottom with a steel strap if you
are worried about splitting. I have a set of bowls I did in two hunks of
6" x 18" x 24" Douglas Fir, on the side grain... been using them for
about 14 years... have done good for me.
Steve Smith
several size rings out of half inch or what have you. Tack weld them to
the top of a piece of pipe or some other standoff. These will work well
for free form dishing.
Steve Smith
Carl West
>
> Avalon <ava...@indy.net> wrote in news:3D57A10A...@indy.net:
>
> > Here 's a question for those of you who do Armor.
> > What are you using as a dishing form?
>
> about two feet long, more or less,
If you can make it tall enough to be anvil height, that'd be good.
Mine has one deep hole in it, shaped somewhat like the bell of a trumpet. I've been using this one for around ten years and and I find I can sink/dish almost every radius I need in it. I drilled a largish hole then hacked it out with a chisel and smoothed it with the big, slighly-flat-faced ballpein I usually use for sinking. Around that one deep hole there are some very shallow depressions, mostly made by pounding-in the end-grain with the hammer, one or two of which are right _at_ the edge. The other end of the log has an asymmetrical depression carved with the tip of a chainsaw (be gentle, go slow, wear protective gear).
- Fritz
--
Carl West ei...@attbi.com http://eisen.home.attbi.com
I have no superfluous leisure; my stay must be stolen out
of other affairs; but I will attend you awhile.
- Isabella, Measure for Measure, Act 3 Scene 1
Conrad Hodson
> > Avalon <ava...@indy.net> wrote in news:3D57A10A...@indy.net:
> >
> > > Here 's a question for those of you who do Armor.
> > > What are you using as a dishing form?
> >
> > Take a section of hardwood --an unsplit firewood log works well--
> > about two feet long, more or less,
I taught my partner Margaret how to dish, she turned out to do a better
job than I so now she's stuck with it. We do a great many dished
dripcatchers for our candleholders, and she uses the endgrain of a
Douglas fir log section. To make the hollow, we heat the head of one of
the 1x8 NC roundhead bolts that you find if you live near railroad tracks
as we do. It burns a nice starter pit in the cut face of the
log. Between all the pounding she does, and it being a softwood log, she
needs a new hole every year or so, but it's no trouble to reheat the bolt
for her.
We tried sandbags but found the seams blow out too often if you're using
them much.
Conrad Hodson
Pete & sheri
just cut out a circular blank of sheet metal, heat it up and start
working it on the anvil from the center, out, round and round. That
will stretch the center more than the edges and you will soon have a
dished shape.
Pete Stanaitis
Shawn Gibbs
>I have been trying to get ahold of one and can't , tanks around here are hard
>to come by.
Talk to your local medical oxygen suppliers, welding shops, scuba shops, metal
scrap dealers and/or fire extinguisher shops. Tanks can only be filled so many
times before they fail their hydrostatic pressure test. Once that happens,
they're essentially scrap and have to be disposed of. I bought a couple from a
scrap dealer for a metal sculpture about a year ago forless than $5 a piece.
Warm Regards,
Shawn