Champion Forge Blower Motor Rheostat
theChas.
Off and On.
First day at school was not nice, with poor coal and no low speeds...pop
corn from the fire all over the place. Second day my instructor brought
coke, and there was a world of difference then.
Since, I have been unable to locate any rheostats for the Champion Blower.
. . . . .This is on the front plate.
No. 3291H106 8452 8 ohms
Champion Regulator 50 & 51
Champion Blower Forge Co.
Lancaster, Penn.
Cutler Hammer.
. . .I figure with 8 ohms on 112VAC this should be about 14 Amps, which
would mean almost two HP (6.8 Amps/HP I believe, maybe it is 6800 watts/HP).
I doubt this HP is the case as the motor is quite small...5" dia, and 5 "
long...
Anyone have a link to where the motor controller can be purchased?
Are they repairable? Evidently all the windings on the slide are
contacting...maybe just dirt is shorting them out. This is a large rheostat,
almost 6" accross.
My instructor and I would be happy with any assistance...thanks.
PS...I tried Google, and as with all my searches there...nothing.
--
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Martin H. Eastburn
soldered (temp protection) or twisted and spot welded. Often a twist is
all that is needed. If burnt on the side - easier to jumper to fix.
(if on the contact area - more complex as the fix must be smooth for
the wiper).
2. - I might have a replacement pot that can handle that - but they are
pricey as they are tougher and a chunk of ceramic.
Take a look at the physical rheostat and see if it seems to be fixable.
If so then try. I'll look in the shop for one I think I have. Printed
this out. And since it is so large - very likely it is repairable and
would be in line with the one I have (If I do.).
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
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Bruce in Bangkok
I'm not trying to be a smart ass but do you know the difference
between a wire wound variable resister and an auto transformer or
variac? If not google the two terms. If you are using it on an A.C.
circuit a variac seem most likely.
Once you have identified the device you can proceed with either repair
or replacement although a lasting repair is problematic.
Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)
Martin H. Eastburn
Motors need high voltage to keep going - rheostats change current and some
voltage.
If you provide a picture then the facts will be out. I have both and used
both for many years as a Physicist and Electronic Engineer.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Neon John
>The rheostat was messed up on a Champion Forge blower, so it had two speeds.
>Off and On.
>Anyone have a link to where the motor controller can be purchased?
>Are they repairable? Evidently all the windings on the slide are
>contacting...maybe just dirt is shorting them out. This is a large rheostat,
>almost 6" accross.
Rheostats are old tech. Ohmite still makes 'em but one that large will run better
than $200.
SCR phase angle control is the way to go now. For instance, this little jewel at $12
will do the job just fine
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060
Industrial/commercial light dimmers will work too. Home Depot handles the Leviton
brand of commercial dimmers.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=10792&minisite=10025&Filter=Y&jfn=ZG9F65083B9D4EA61B9C9B8C779837EC82A1191932C5372CBE40E80F912BCCE593C2C8FCC11498E9D3B1051EED6F4D1F1B3C&oas=H94_zxdPiMqDlbfDC3Hleg..
http://preview.tinyurl.com/ynotrn
Gad, what a URL. Beneath the shiny fascia is a finned heat sink. I use the 1000
watt version for a variety of speed control tasks around my shop. Note that cheap
residential dimmers probably won't work with a motor, as they're not designed for
inductive loads. The nice thing about these units is that they mount in standard
outlet boxes.
The motor will make some buzzing sound and may get a little warmer with SCR control
than with the rheostat. If the buzz is annoying then a Variac variable
auto-transformer can be used. Here is an example:
http://www.surplussales.com/Variacs/VariacIndex.html
I cited that site because the photos are good. The prices are outrageous, probably
full boat retail. A 120 volt, 6 or 8 amp Variac should be easily obtainable
used/surplus for under $100, usually much under.
I have a couple of those $12 HF speed controllers and like them. That's the first
thing I'd try.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If stupidity hurt then there'd be Aspirin in the salt shakers.
spaco
to add to the curcuit, so the calculation is incorrect. I'd guess the
motor's dc resisitance to be about another 8 to 30 ohms.
If you want to keep the old rheostat intact, take it to a motor
repair shop.
if you simply want the blower to work, get a lamp dimmer.
Another approach is to let the motor run at full speed and add a damper
in the pipe.
Recently I needed a large rheostat for a solar energy experiment and I
found this place on the web: http://www.surplussales.com/
Pete Stanaitis
-------------------
Stuart
spaco <sp...@baldwin-telecom.net> wrote:
> if you simply want the blower to work, get a lamp dimmer.
> Another approach is to let the motor run at full speed and add a damper
> in the pipe.
This is the more traditional and reliable approach.
--
Stuart Winsor
For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
See: http://www.barndance.org.uk
Trevor Jones
> In article <qpedncp1-_a1-G3a...@bright.net>,
> spaco <sp...@baldwin-telecom.net> wrote:
>
>> if you simply want the blower to work, get a lamp dimmer.
>>Another approach is to let the motor run at full speed and add a damper
>>in the pipe.
>
>
> This is the more traditional and reliable approach.
>
session, set it up so that you have to stand on a treadle, or provide
some other means of directing the air into the firepot, other than
having a switch to remember to turn down.
Something like a pedal that closes off the bleed-off of the pressure,
or a 2 (or more) speed momentary contact switch that goes back to idle
when you are out of the fire and working your parts.
It'll prevent you burning up your other workpieces too, if you get
hung up on something, or get distracted.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
Martin H. Eastburn
This might help.
Find the right model... form / case.
Have you looked ? might be a burnt wire only - not the stat itself.
Might be a singe winding or the brush. Brushes can be replaced.
Inspect before spending money.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
theChas.
rotates about 90 degrees in a arc and probably has a brush riding against a
resistance coil), runs hotter than heck. The top is a half round also, like
fitting the half round coil.
. . . .I have one of those router speed controllers, (works great) but I
always figured they only worked on motors that had brushes. I am fairly
sure this Champion motor does not have brushes, just guessing from it size
and shape. Since the impeller gets air intake from both the motor side, and
the outside, one would have to block off the motor side intake to put a
rotating baffle on the outside intake. Owner is figuring to put a slide
gate valve in the 3" outlet pipe. Undoubtedly the best way.
thanks to all.
spaco
that I have all do have brushes.
Pete Stanaitis
------------------------
Bob AZ
> Anyone have a link to where the motor controller can be purchased?
> Are they repairable? �Evidently all the windings on the slide are
> contacting...maybe just dirt is shorting them out. This is a large rheostat,
> almost 6" accross.
Charles
Came right up on Google.
You do need to do more ID of the defective part.
Bob AZ
Dave Rogers
A bit after the fact (March 2018), but I re-wound a friend's voltage reducer
(I have an electric shop) after it suffered the same failures. The very old
nichrome wire just gave up due to age, corrosion, and constant hot/cold
repetitions. New wire can be bought from Amazon, along with the stove cement
to anchor the new wire onto the ceramic base. The number of windings must be
calculated to match the correct resistance between the brass contacts. Total
resistance for this unit was 82 ohms, as listed on the face plate, but any
combination between the contacts can be used; called being creative. This job
was more than a repair. It was saving an irreplaceable antique; a piece of
history.
--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/blacksmithing/champion-forge-blower-motor-rheostat-6729-.htm
ABat
Hello Martin,
I have one of these rheostats. Do you repair them? The ceramic needs
replacement I believe orherswise in good condition...
Hate to buy a modern one instead of repairing the original that goes with
blower!
Thanks