On 2023-09-28, Gremlin <
nob...@haph.org> wrote:
> pothead <
pot...@snakebite.com> news:uf2aq7$3anp9$
1...@dont-email.me Wed, 27
> Sep 2023 22:36:55 GMT in alt.computer.workshop, wrote:
On 2023-09-28, Gremlin <
nob...@haph.org> wrote:
> pothead <
pot...@snakebite.com> news:uf2aq7$3anp9$
1...@dont-email.me Wed, 27
> Sep 2023 22:36:55 GMT in alt.computer.workshop, wrote:
>
><snip>
>:) I've built a few of those kits when I was a kid. They were really bad as
> I recall about frequency drift and just generally not being very reliable.
> But, they did teach you the necessary basics concerning radio. If you used
> what they provided, you could even build yourself a little transmitter. Your
> dad probably did that too and experienced the same frequency drift as
> myself. You just couldn't keep the damn things 'locked' if you will.
Well they were tube based so yea, as they heated up they would drift.
He built the VTVM, which was great at the time because it had a very high input impedance so as not
to load the circuit being tested.
He also built an amateur radio transmitter, a signal generator and a grid dip meter.
Also some EICO kits he built as well. A transmitter if I remember correctly.
They were no where near the quality of the HeathKit products though
> Acid Core is very corrosive to electronics, the pcb itself, the traces, etc.
> Yes, indeed it is. I remember when we had a 'new' technician at a place I
> worked some years back. The job he was assigned shouldn't have been a big
> deal. It was to replace a busted power jack and three bad usb ports on a
> laptop. A Dell laptop at that. Somehow, acid core based solder was used in
> the repair. That new technician didn't bother to check anything and just
> assumed the solder he found with a fucking mini propane torch was the stuff
> he was supposed to use; instead of the stuff that was in the same damn
> toolbox as the 30watt pencil style soldering iron.
>
> How you fuck up like that I don't know for sure, but, I have seen the
> results of the work two months or so after the fact. It came back because
> one of the usb ports had stopped working. When I disassembled the computer
> on the bench to take a looksee at what the issue might be (we didn't use
> cheap parts/components and I had yet to see the first failure of a usb port
> that was replaced by the shop) thats when I got to see for myself just how
> bad acid core solder is. It had already eaten a hole thru the entire board;
> right where the work was done on that port. The other traces nearby all
> looked really bad; as in failure was going to take place at any moment, bad.
> It became obvious real fast that the entire work area was compromised; some
> severely, some not as bad (yet). The entire board was pulled from the laptop
> chassis and took an emergency grade bath in an ultra sonic cleaner; using
> some of the best cleaning solution I've ever seen or had the pleasure of
> working with; and, it comes from the UK. It's not made here, and it's pretty
> damn expensive but.. it's the best shit I know of, I still use it
> exclusively at my own shop. It's either dawn dish soap bath, or the blue
> stuff that has an odd smell to it. If I'm cleaning after a rework, it's
> usually the blue bath. if I'm cleaning the entire board for prep, it's
> usually dawn dish soap. Safe enough for wildlife, safe enough for pcb
> cleaning. I don't recommend leaving the shit soaking for a really long time,
> and I recommend rinsing with distilled water in either case.
>
> Due to the ultra sonic cleaning chemicals, I was able to neutralize the
> effects of the left over, acid core based flux and prevent further damage. I
> had to redo some traces and resolder a few joints to restablize the board,
> though. I also had to do a thorough job of cleaning out the hole it made.
> Carbon was present, and as I'm sure you know, carbon is conductive.
Yea. Carbon tracks are the bane of anyone repairing electronic equipment.
> When I first started, I remember my first experience with carbon residue on
> a radio I was working on. It had blown components in the power supply
> section; so I replaced them, but I didn't clean the board top or bottom
> beforehand. I mostly cleaned up after myself when I finished, though. When I
> attempted to turn the radio on, that's when I learned that you always clean
> up after blown components; they will leave carbon build up soot behind, and
> it's conductive. You *can* short out brand new components, along with other
> original components (hella show that one was) due to carbon residue being on
> the board, allowing electrical contact where it shouldn't be. Sigh.
Yep.
Can be very dangerous in high voltage tube circuits as well.
>> These days I use an X-Tronic soldering station which is a clone of the
>> Hakko units and an Anesty de-soldering station both of which work very
>> well. Of course I also have a couple of Weller pencil irons with various
>> wattage tips.
>
> Very nice gear. I do not have a desoldering station. I'm still using solder
> wick and hand pumps. I have a tendency though of doing my own wick to my
> specs; I find it makes things easier for me to be able to fine control
> solder removal on various components. I don't want to lift pads or traces, I
> just want the solder gone so the component is free.
I was same as you, a wick and a solder sucker but I've restored a few high end audio components and
the de-soldering station made the work easy.
It's an inexpensive one, but I can't take exception to it because it just works.
I think I could buy 2 or 3 of these for the price of one Hakko.
> I did use one of the Hakko solder sucking units though for a fairly decent
> sized recapping project. It's a nice tool, but, it's not exactly on the low
> end price wise. The last time I priced one, it was in the 200plus dollar
> range. if I had enough of the type of work that I was going to be doing alot
> of dip component harvesting or replacement, I could justify it.
Yea, it's expensive for sure.
> As it is though, they don't work that well with SMD (atleast not the one I
> was using) based components, and for the most part, aside from high
> current/high voltage; you won't run into DIP style components which is what
> the one I borrowed was for.
SMD is one skill I know nothing about.
I suppose at some point I need to learn it.
> I have an off brand digital soldering station that uses open source firmware.
> It's also open source hardware, but, I couldn't build it as inexpensively as
> I can buy it. rofl. It's a shinenow, a kseg clone. Which is actually a Hakko
> clone; and I'm sure it's not a licensed one. It accepts their tips, the
> wands, (Mine is T12 based), etc. It's a great little tool, Once I got it, I
> stopped using my pencil style irons for the most part. I tend to use a wedge
> tip and I typically do the majority of my solder work at 350 celcius.
There are a lot of off brand devices that function just as good as the expensive name brands.
> I've also got a couple of elenco style pencil irons, a couple of wellers (I
> have one of the third gen 40watt ones; which is quite the damn iron I must
> say). My first pencil style iron of any real significance was my elenco.
> It's literally sold to school systems in an effort to teach young persons
> the craft. it's a great iron, but a little pricey. I like it's ceramic coil
> system and it's tip holding design. You can also get conical tips or wedge
> tips for it. It ships with a couple of conical tips. I believe tip wise it
> can run some weller ones as well.
Weller is built like a tank.
Last forever.
I think they have been around since the 1930's, give or take.
> They also make a pretty decent full fledged, desktop size I'd say soldering
> station. I don't own one of those, I'm quite content with my shinenow. And
> if I was going to buy another one, no offense to elenco; but for the money
> and the features, I'd get another shinenow or a decent clone of it. Or, if
> the funds was unlimited, for sure, Hakko everything. It's not just the name,
> it's the earned and known for quality tools in the electronics industry.
>
Use what works best for you.
> I'd also upgrade my scope options to a Keysight four channel. And maybe a
> multi output adjustable variable bench power supply. I have one now that's
> good for upto 30 volts at ten amps, but it's a single output model. If I
> wanted to drive two circuits on dc isolated circuits, I'd have to run one or
> both on batteries, or get another one of these power supplies, or snag one
> of the 'now you're getting serious' multi output bench power supplies
> avalable by keysight and others. But, when you're buying that gear, you
> better have the work either already at the shop, or you know for sure it's
> coming because you can (I know I could!) easily spend thousands at keysight
> alone. Some of their scopes are tens of thousands.
I started with a Healthkit scope my dad built. I learned how to display Lissajous patterns to
determine phase and amplitude.
I then moved to a Tektronix surplus scope, various models.
These days I use a Siglent 1202-XE dual channel scope.
I love the thing!
> Right now, I have a few single channel scopes that came as a kit you
> assemble yourself. You can save more coin when ordering one if you forgo the
> chassis, and do all the soldering yourself during the assembly. I don't
> recommend that route for total n00bs to soldering because it's almost all
> surface mount and they aren't very large components. They are limited in max
> range, max sample speed, etc; but, they aren't a keysight either. :) These
> are my modern, CRT free scopes. I still have an ancient technics I think it
> is scope that's almost as big as a suitcase here someplace. Ironically, the
> baby scope kits are more versatile; except for their limited max voltage on
> the sample. The technics if I remember correctly could handle 1kv without
> requiring the probe adjustment kits that goes between your scope and your
> probes. Same thing you basically do when you need to get the voltage from
> the high side of the MOT or a flyback on a CRT based set. Obviously you
> can't sample it directly using your meter raw; The meter can't handle the
> high voltages which are present in those devices.
>
> They do the job I ask of them, but I have to do all the scale math myself;
> they don't really do much on that end on their own. I can use the limited
> plotting functions and get the voltage at whatever area of the wave form;
> but, it won't do any of the real math for me. It just gives raw data and
> you're on your own. It also has what I consider to be a low max incoming
> sample voltage. You can't use this particular scope on any circuit that will
> have over 50 volts present; atleast not directly tied to the scope. You can
> use the load configuration kits that go between your scope and probes when
> you need to sample a circuit you know, or suspect atleast has a voltage
> level which exceeds the capability of your scope. They're also a little on
> the sensitive side when triggering or showing the waveform, so it'll be a
> little jagged sometimes. They aren't in any way shielded, so if you have
> switch mode power supplies in very close proximity of it's single channel
> BNC connector you could very well see it represented on the screen. [g]
>
> max frequency these little shits can sample is over a megahertz, so limited
> there as well but still well withen usability for that range. Unless you're
> working on high power high frequency radio transmitter circuits, they work
> well. If you are dealing with such circuits though, obviously you'd want a
> much more advanced scope. And naturally, you'll fork a lot more coin than I
> did for one of these kit scopes [g]
>
> I've also got a component identifier kit. And it's pretty damn accurate for
> most components. Not only will it mostly properly identify a component,
> it'll give you the pin configuration, any resistance/capacitance detected,
> etc. It's quite spiffy. It isn't, afaik, able to do anything with an actual
> IC though. I can't stick a 555 on it and it tell me what's attached. But, if
> I have a capacitor, a transistor (including most fets and igbt!) it'll fork
> me it's internal values and the correct pin layout. yes, it knows the
> difference between base/gate source/drain, collector, emitter pins. It can
> also tell you if you've blown the fet/bjt because as you know, a blown fet
> is no different than a big fat resistor in most fail scenarios that don't
> involve any casing damage or smoke visibly being released from the fet.
>
> I can even use it for resistors. [g] so I don't have to bother with the
> color code, or use a meter; the tester can do that all for me. It can also
> run cap tests. So, again, useful thing to have in your bench tool set.
I have a couple component testers that I built from kits.
Transistor, Capacitor, etc.
It's amazing how accurate they are and they didn't cost much either.
The kits were essentially, assembling the unit from major parts.
No component level work needed to be done.
> I'm also a big fan of SRA soldering products. Especially the solder removal
> alloy. Have you worked with this stuff? You use a very small amount of it
> and melt it into existing solder. The moment it's bonded, that solder will
> remain completely liquid state for several seconds after you take the iron
> off it. Matter of fact, you can take a plastic wedge and just give the
> solder a shove and it'll roll up into a little ball and just fall right off
> the board, taking nothing else you didn't want taken with it. You can roll
> it back and forth with your iron, or a pencil or scraping tool; whatever you
> want to use. You have nearly ten seconds of it remaining in liquid state
> before you have to apply heat to do it again, so plenty of time to get the
> component free.
I have not used SRA products.
Thanks for the tip. I'll look into it.
> You do have to perform extra cleanup before you install new components and
> apply fresh solder though. As this alloy isn't solder, it's designed to make
> SMD work quick and painless; no more heat gun to remove a square surface
> mount, say, micro processor on a game console. Just apply this stuff on each
> side, and the compo>
>> On 2023-09-27, Gremlin <
nob...@haph.org> wrote:
>>> Steve Carroll <"Steve Carroll"@noSPAM.none>
>>> news:ueho3a$3jaki$
1...@fretwizzer.eternal-september.org Thu, 21 Sep 2023
>>> 15:39:23 GMT in alt.computer.workshop, wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>>>> I saw him offer to help you, I never saw him 'give his word' that he'd
>>>> do so amidst you 'doing what you do' and I don't expect to see you do
>>>> what you've often claimed you do, "support" you allegations.
>>>
>>> Correct.
>>>
>>>> Didn't he ask to see images of your tooling early on? No matter, if
>>>> you were interested you'd have just posted them instead of making up a
>>>> BS story about how he 'gave his word'.
>>>
>>> I did, months ago now, yes. I can tell now from the pic he shared that
>>> he doesn't even know what an iron actually is, he included not one, but
>>> two fucking engravers in the damn pic. WTF does he think we would be
>>> using either of those for?
>>>
>
> [snip]
>
>>> The repair would involve exchanging pictures, possibly video as well on
>>> occasion as was necessary. Most importantly though, my instructions
>>> would need to be followed to the fucking letter and if he's not able to
>>> do so, for whatever reason, I'd need to know as soon as possible,
>>> before we could continue to the next step. Maybe i'll remove him from
>>> the scoring system in a month or two and check on the progress of his
>>> ability to comprehend what he reads and revisit this subject.
>>>
>>
>> When I was growing up in the 60's, my dad built a boatload of HeathKit
>> equipment. Every manual had written in huge type, not to use acid core
>> solder because it is corrosive to electronics. I still have a few Kester
>> rolls of rosin core solder from my dad. I also have his Weller soldering
>> gun, the one with the lights on it.
>
>:) I've built a few of those kits when I was a kid. They were really bad as
> I recall about frequency drift and just generally not being very reliable.
> But, they did teach you the necessary basics concerning radio. If you used
> what they provided, you could even build yourself a little transmitter. Your
> dad probably did that too and experienced the same frequency drift as
> myself. You just couldn't keep the damn things 'locked' if you will.
>
> Acid Core is very corrosive to electronics, the pcb itself, the traces, etc.
> Yes, indeed it is. I remember when we had a 'new' technician at a place I
> worked some years back. The job he was assigned shouldn't have been a big
> deal. It was to replace a busted power jack and three bad usb ports on a
> laptop. A Dell laptop at that. Somehow, acid core based solder was used in
> the repair. That new technician didn't bother to check anything and just
> assumed the solder he found with a fucking mini propane torch was the stuff
> he was supposed to use; instead of the stuff that was in the same damn
> toolbox as the 30watt pencil style soldering iron.
>
> How you fuck up like that I don't know for sure, but, I have seen the
> results of the work two months or so after the fact. It came back because
> one of the usb ports had stopped working. When I disassembled the computer
> on the bench to take a looksee at what the issue might be (we didn't use
> cheap parts/components and I had yet to see the first failure of a usb port
> that was replaced by the shop) thats when I got to see for myself just how
> bad acid core solder is. It had already eaten a hole thru the entire board;
> right where the work was done on that port. The other traces nearby all
> looked really bad; as in failure was going to take place at any moment, bad.
> It became obvious real fast that the entire work area was compromised; some
> severely, some not as bad (yet). The entire board was pulled from the laptop
> chassis and took an emergency grade bath in an ultra sonic cleaner; using
> some of the best cleaning solution I've ever seen or had the pleasure of
> working with; and, it comes from the UK. It's not made here, and it's pretty
> damn expensive but.. it's the best shit I know of, I still use it
> exclusively at my own shop. It's either dawn dish soap bath, or the blue
> stuff that has an odd smell to it. If I'm cleaning after a rework, it's
> usually the blue bath. if I'm cleaning the entire board for prep, it's
> usually dawn dish soap. Safe enough for wildlife, safe enough for pcb
> cleaning. I don't recommend leaving the shit soaking for a really long time,
> and I recommend rinsing with distilled water in either case.
>
> Due to the ultra sonic cleaning chemicals, I was able to neutralize the
> effects of the left over, acid core based flux and prevent further damage. I
> had to redo some traces and resolder a few joints to restablize the board,
> though. I also had to do a thorough job of cleaning out the hole it made.
> Carbon was present, and as I'm sure you know, carbon is conductive.
>
> When I first started, I remember my first experience with carbon residue on
> a radio I was working on. It had blown components in the power supply
> section; so I replaced them, but I didn't clean the board top or bottom
> beforehand. I mostly cleaned up after myself when I finished, though. When I
> attempted to turn the radio on, that's when I learned that you always clean
> up after blown components; they will leave carbon build up soot behind, and
> it's conductive. You *can* short out brand new components, along with other
> original components (hella show that one was) due to carbon residue being on
> the board, allowing electrical contact where it shouldn't be. Sigh.
>
>> These days I use an X-Tronic soldering station which is a clone of the
>> Hakko units and an Anesty de-soldering station both of which work very
>> well. Of course I also have a couple of Weller pencil irons with various
>> wattage tips.
>
> Very nice gear. I do not have a desoldering station. I'm still using solder
> wick and hand pumps. I have a tendency though of doing my own wick to my
> specs; I find it makes things easier for me to be able to fine control
> solder removal on various components. I don't want to lift pads or traces, I
> just want the solder gone so the component is free.
>
> I did use one of the Hakko solder sucking units though for a fairly decent
> sized recapping project. It's a nice tool, but, it's not exactly on the low
> end price wise. The last time I priced one, it was in the 200plus dollar
> range. if I had enough of the type of work that I was going to be doing alot
> of dip component harvesting or replacement, I could justify it.
>
> As it is though, they don't work that well with SMD (atleast not the one I
> was using) based components, and for the most part, aside from high
> current/high voltage; you won't run into DIP style components which is what
> the one I borrowed was for.
>
> I have an offbrand digital soldering station that uses open source firmware.
> It's also open source hardware, but, I couldn't build it as inexpensively as
> I can buy it. rofl. It's a shinenow, a kseg clone. Which is actually a Hakko
> clone; and I'm sure it's not a licensed one. It accepts their tips, the
> wands, (Mine is T12 based), etc. It's a great little tool, Once I got it, I
> stopped using my pencil style irons for the most part. I tend to use a wedge
> tip and I typically do the majority of my solder work at 350 celcius.
>
> I've also got a couple of elenco style pencil irons, a couple of wellers (I
> have one of the third gen 40watt ones; which is quite the damn iron I must
> say). My first pencil style iron of any real significance was my elenco.
> It's literally sold to school systems in an effort to teach young persons
> the craft. it's a great iron, but a little pricey. I like it's ceramic coil
> system and it's tip holding design. You can also get conical tips or wedge
> tips for it. It ships with a couple of conical tips. I believe tip wise it
> can run some weller ones as well.
>
> They also make a pretty decent full fledged, desktop size I'd say soldering
> station. I don't own one of those, I'm quite content with my shinenow. And
> if I was going to buy another one, no offense to elenco; but for the money
> and the features, I'd get another shinenow or a decent clone of it. Or, if
> the funds was unlimited, for sure, Hakko everything. It's not just the name,
> it's the earned and known for quality tools in the electronics industry.
>
> I'd also upgrade my scope options to a Keysight four channel. And maybe a
> multi output adjustable variable bench power supply. I have one now that's
> good for upto 30 volts at ten amps, but it's a single output model. If I
> wanted to drive two circuits on dc isolated circuits, I'd have to run one or
> both on batteries, or get another one of these power supplies, or snag one
> of the 'now you're getting serious' multi output bench power supplies
> avalable by keysight and others. But, when you're buying that gear, you
> better have the work either already at the shop, or you know for sure it's
> coming because you can (I know I could!) easily spend thousands at keysight
> alone. Some of their scopes are tens of thousands.
>
> Right now, I have a few single channel scopes that came as a kit you
> assemble yourself. You can save more coin when ordering one if you forgo the
> chassis, and do all the soldering yourself during the assembly. I don't
> recommend that route for total n00bs to soldering because it's almost all
> surface mount and they aren't very large components. They are limited in max
> range, max sample speed, etc; but, they aren't a keysight either. :) These
> are my modern, CRT free scopes. I still have an ancient technics I think it
> is scope that's almost as big as a suitcase here someplace. Ironically, the
> baby scope kits are more versatile; except for their limited max voltage on
> the sample. The technics if I remember correctly could handle 1kv without
> requiring the probe adjustment kits that goes between your scope and your
> probes. Same thing you basically do when you need to get the voltage from
> the high side of the MOT or a flyback on a CRT based set. Obviously you
> can't sample it directly using your meter raw; The meter can't handle the
> high voltages which are present in those devices.
>
> They do the job I ask of them, but I have to do all the scale math myself;
> they don't really do much on that end on their own. I can use the limited
> plotting functions and get the voltage at whatever area of the wave form;
> but, it won't do any of the real math for me. It just gives raw data and
> you're on your own. It also has what I consider to be a low max incoming
> sample voltage. You can't use this particular scope on any circuit that will
> have over 50 volts present; atleast not directly tied to the scope. You can
> use the load configuration kits that go between your scope and probes when
> you need to sample a circuit you know, or suspect atleast has a voltage
> level which exceeds the capability of your scope. They're also a little on
> the sensitive side when triggering or showing the waveform, so it'll be a
> little jagged sometimes. They aren't in any way shielded, so if you have
> switch mode power supplies in very close proximity of it's single channel
> BNC connector you could very well see it represented on the screen. [g]
>
> max frequency these little shits can sample is over a megahertz, so limited
> there as well but still well withen usability for that range. Unless you're
> working on high power high frequency radio transmitter circuits, they work
> well. If you are dealing with such circuits though, obviously you'd want a
> much more advanced scope. And naturally, you'll fork a lot more coin than I
> did for one of these kit scopes [g]
>
> I've also got a component identifier kit. And it's pretty damn accurate for
> most components. Not only will it mostly properly identify a component,
> it'll give you the pin configuration, any resistance/capacitance detected,
> etc. It's quite spiffy. It isn't, afaik, able to do anything with an actual
> IC though. I can't stick a 555 on it and it tell me what's attached. But, if
> I have a capacitor, a transistor (including most fets and igbt!) it'll fork
> me it's internal values and the correct pin layout. yes, it knows the
> difference between base/gate source/drain, collector, emitter pins. It can
> also tell you if you've blown the fet/bjt because as you know, a blown fet
> is no different than a big fat resistor in most fail scenarios that don't
> involve any casing damage or smoke visibly being released from the fet.
>
> I can even use it for resistors. [g] so I don't have to bother with the
> color code, or use a meter; the tester can do that all for me. It can also
> run cap tests. So, again, useful thing to have in your bench tool set.
>
> I'm also a big fan of SRA soldering products. Especially the solder removal
> alloy. Have you worked with this stuff? You use a very small amount of it
> and melt it into existing solder. The moment it's bonded, that solder will
> remain completely liquid state for several seconds after you take the iron
> off it. Matter of fact, you can take a plastic wedge and just give the
> solder a shove and it'll roll up into a little ball and just fall right off
> the board, taking nothing else you didn't want taken with it. You can roll
> it back and forth with your iron, or a pencil or scraping tool; whatever you
> want to use. You have nearly ten seconds of it remaining in liquid state
> before you have to apply heat to do it again, so plenty of time to get the
> component free.
>
> You do have to perform extra cleanup before you install new components and
> apply fresh solder though. As this alloy isn't solder, it's designed to make
> SMD work quick and painless; no more heat gun to remove a square surface
> mount, say, micro processor on a game console. Just apply this stuff on each
> side, and the component will lift off the board within seconds, without
> damaging a single trace or pad.
>
> Long post, my apologies. Soldering/electronics a subject I'm passionate
> about, if you couldn't tell already.
>nent will lift off the board within seconds, without
> damaging a single trace or pad.
Destroying the pads is the biggest noob mistake.
I've worked on a few units that were hack jobs and it was not pleasant.
lol !
> Long post, my apologies. Soldering/electronics a subject I'm passionate
> about, if you couldn't tell already.
So I see !
Get ready for snit to attack and claim you, and probably me as well, don't know what we are talking
about!
He needs to stay away from technology and stick to building model boats with tons of glue on them.
--
pothead
Tommy Chong For President 2024.
Crazy Joe Biden Is A Demented Imbecile.
Impeach Joe Biden 2022.