12V @ 5.90A CPU P4 2.8 Northwood
0.43A fan
0.77A regular 9800Pro Aux connector (3DMark)
0.6 A hard drive
Total 7.7 A
3.3 @ 13.75A Powers the memory and chipset
5V @ 0.56A Very little 5V motherboard load
5.5 A regular 9800Pro Aux connector (3DMark)
1.0 A Hard drive
1.5 A CDROM with no media present
Total 8.56A
5VSB @ ?? Not measured. Will substitute boilerplate ~1A
-12V @ ?? Not measured. Probably powers the GD75232 RS232 chip.
-5V @ ?? Not measured, and not an easy way to tell if the
board depends on this or not. My PSU does have a -5V output.
Total power estimated based on my P4C800-E system is
3.3*13.75 + 5*8.56 + 12*7.7 + 5VSB*1 = 45.375+42.80+92.4+5 = 185.6W
The HD 3850 measurements are here. The AGP version would add to this,
a few watts for Rialto bridge.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/gigabyte-radeonhd3870-3850_5.html#sect0
A ballpark figure is 12V @ 5A, so your total system power hasn't gone up
that much (part of the 9800Pro loading is bundled into the 3.3v motherboard
rail), but more of the load would be on +12V. Somewhere around 12A
total load on the +12V, with the new card present. Now your +5V
rail is quite unloaded, and could be down to a couple amps.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/video/gigabyte-radeonhd3870-3850/gbt3000_power_full.png
So it would appear you're still safe (under the 20A).
*******
This assumes your power supply is healthy. I opened up my
True 480 the other day, to discover bad caps on the output
rail side. The primary was in good shape
(because otherwise, it would blow up).
The brown deposits are just like the picture here.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/84/PSU_Caps.jpg
I didn't touch anything in there, just had a look before removing
the supply for good. I heard arcing sounds coming through the
computer speakers, so the bad caps wouldn't have lasted much
longer. I also has the machine reboot, when returning from sleep
one day, which means the supply wasn't stable at first power
up.
I don't know of a reason why that motherboard would use -5V.
A tiny, tiny amount of current would flow, because the -5V
is connected to the hardware monitor chip. But whether they
tied -5V into any of their opamp circuits, is an unknown.
If it did turn out to be a problem, it can be fixed for a
couple bucks. You can buy a 7905 three terminal regulator,
a couple bypass caps, and solder that right to
the motherboard. The 7905 could accept the -12V from
your new supply, and then make a regulated -5V from it.
By soldering it to the motherboard, you avoid the need
to add a pin to the Mini-Fit main power connector (on
the power supply side).
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/LM/LM7905.html
The circuit to use is Figure 6 on page 12. "Input" would
be the -12V pin on the main power connector. "Output" would
be the -5V pin on the main power connector. And the
circuit could only be left in place, if a power supply
*without* -5V on it was being used. If you put a supply
*with* -5V on it, the circuit should be removed (or rather,
the connection to -5V should be broken). Placing a small
switch in the -5V path, would be another feature you could
add. The TO-220 package would not need a heatsink on it,
if the -5V isn't drawing any power. If you tried to
draw 1 amp from the 7905, without a heatsink, it would
rapidly overheat and shut off its output. So my
assumption here, is there is no significant load.
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7905.pdf
I use a similar 7812 based regulator here, to run fans or a small
12V video camera from, and that regulator is bolted to
a small 2"x2"x1" heatsink. It runs from an unregulated
transformer based DC wall wart (about 17VDC).
Paul
Don't have quite the same hardware setup, but I run a Sapphire HD3850
AGP vid card in a 4coredual-sata2 mobo (Asrock) using an E2160
core2duo cpu (oc'd to 2.8 GHz), 2 Gig ddr2 memory, 80G hd, 2 cd/dvd
burners, all powered by an Antec SL350 PS (350w).
SL350 max ratings:
+5V -5V +12V -12V +3.3V +5VSB
35A* 0.5A 16A 0.8A 28A* 2.0A
The Antec power supplies tend to have a higher "combined power output"
rating than other brands, but I suppose it all depends on what model
you purchase also. The combined output for my Antec SL350 was better
than for my Enermax 350W PS.
I suspect the E2160 uses less juice than the older p4 cpu you are
using, but probably not that much difference. Give it a try, enter
BIOS on first boot, check voltages, run some tests from a CD such as
Ultimate Boot CD (mem tests or prime95), or even boot-up with a
Knoppix CD and give it a go. Such tests avoid use of the HD, the most
likely place where a PS failure could be painful (tho a mobo failure
might also be painful).
I find Antec supplies are mid-to-upper-mid range in quality (based
upon factors such as total weight, brand of capacitors used, past
experience with life expectance of fans, and overall failure rate).
Others may disagree with my assessment. Given the amount of
hand-soldering required in the assembly of power supply circuit
boards, I see lots of sloppy soldering and assembly work in this area
of the PS products when doing a post-mortem on supplies (I just about
always open up a failed supply and do a visual inspection looking for
evidence as to why it failed).
Oddly, my sl350 died one day for no apparent reason, and I foolishly
spent countless hours diagnosing the defective components, reverse
engineering much of the high-voltage circuit, and repairing it myself.
None of the output caps were bad, as I recall. Seems a 25 cent high
voltage zener failed (it decided to short out), which took out one of
the main switching power FETs (a $12 device at the local electronics
store) and a switching transistor in the 5vsb circuit. Discovering
what components have failed can be a bit of a nightmare with switching
supplies. Had to email Antec to get a resistor value b/c one resistor
in my PS was fried brown and the color bands were not readable. Turns
out it was a .47 ohm resistor and power to the 5vsb circuit fed
directly thru it. Transformers in switching supplies, I found out, are
typically custom components and no info can be found on most of them.
Antec was somewhat helpful, tho they would not give me a schematic,
they did tell me the resistor values when asked. The Antec engineer
also advised me of certain components to double check for proper
value. Musta been a boring winter last year for me to take on this
project. Truly a joy when one is successful in bringing one of these
switching power supplies back to life (IT LIVES!) without a schematic,
sort-of a techno victory to be celebrated by imbibing excessive
alcoholic beverages. Of course, it's much cheaper to just buy a new
PS, but some of us geeky nitwits like to take on a challenge, quite
similar to those who climb mountains, because the challenge exists.
It also helps to have a Variac (sure glad I bought that vintage 1940
model variac for $20, they almost never go bad)! Boring
self-adulation and self-back-slapping now ceasing.
--
Best regards,
Kyle
"Tom" <T...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9B6768EA2D6...@news.supernews.com...
>
> You wrote in news:Xns9B3DC37E0DB...@news.supernews.com thusly:
>
>> I have a P4C800-E Deluxe motherboard and plan to upgrade the GFX card
>> to a AGP HD3850,
>
> [...]
>
> Thank you Kyle and Paul for your replies. I've had to put this project
> on hold do to illness. I think I can get back to it.
>
> It sounds like from both replies that the power supply should be strong
> enough or I'll quickly know it's not. :)
>
> My other concern about the HD3850 is how long the PCB is and what it
> will hit when installed. I've read a lot of reviews from people
> complaining about the length of the card, but at no time do they mention
> the PCBs actual size. This is also true for the HD3850 manufactures for
> some odd reason. After spending a considerable amount of time, I finally
> know the size of the PCB. As it turns out it is 9 inches by 5 inches and
> that's a problem.
>
> To start with, this is what my Antec case looks like inside:
>
> .-----------------------------------.
> | | Power | _______1___| \
> |F| Supply | _______2___| \____ 5 1/4" Bays
> |_|__________| _______3___| /
> | _______4___| /
> |-----------------------------------|
> |---------------------. ____5___| \
> | | P4C800-E Deluxe | ____6___| >---- 3 1/2" Upper Cage
> |F| | ____7___| /
> |_| | ____8_| | \
> | | ======= <--- AGP | ____9_|F| >---- 3 1/2" Lower Cage
> |F| ======= | ___10_|_| /
> |_| ======= | _|
> |---------------------' | |
> | |F|
> | |_|
> `-----------------------------------'
>
> 1 = DVD Drive
> 2 = Empty
> 3 = DVD Drive
> 4 = SATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> 5 = 3 1/2 Floppy
> 6 = SATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> 7 = PATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> 8 = PATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> 9 = PATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> 10 = PATA Hard Drive (320GB)
> F = 80mm Fan
>
> As you can see above, the AGP port is directly aligned with hard drive
> #9 and so the hard drive has to me moved in order to get the HD3850 to
> fit.
>
> I could remove the fan in front of the lower cage, slide hard drives #8,
> #9 and #10 forward. Then attach the fan to the empty side porthole on
> the door of the case. This might give me enough room for the HD3850.
>
> I could take hard drives #4 and #6 (both SATA) out of the case and
> replace it with a mobile rack (such as a SATA ICY DOCK) where hard drive
> #4 currently sits. However, I do have concerns about using a mobile
> rack. Should I be and if not, any recommendations on which one?
>
> I could take the same hard drives (#4 and #6) and replace them with a
> larger hard drive where hard drive #4 currently sits. But I can't find
> any info on just how large of a hard drive can be attached to the SATA
> ports on the P4C800-E Deluxe with WinXP Pro SP2. I'm thinking of a 1TB
> SATA hard drive. However, then I have two 320GB hard drives collecting
> dust.
>
> Using external enclosures is kind-of out of the question as I already
> have two PATA 500GB hard drives in two USB external enclosures.
>
> I hardly got any sleep last night thinking about this. I'm stuck and not
> sure what to do about this. And I haven't even gotten the HD3850 yet. :)
>
> Sorry for the delay and thank you.
>
> --
>
> Tom
>
Look for a computer case, capable of holding an EATX motherboard.
"Motherboard Compatibility 12" x 13" E-ATX, Dual Xeon Board"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811165013
Exterior dimensions are 9.2" x 26" x 21.8"
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/11-165-013-08.jpg
The video card in that case, would fit within the confines of the
motherboard tray shown in the picture.
Some of the cases that size, are rather expensive.
Paul
You can still find the steel U-shaped adapters for 3.5" to 5.25" bays.
I got my supply of them, from the days when a retail packaged disk
drive include a pair of these in every box.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811993004
They're installed using the slides that come with the case.
slider-bracket-disk-bracket-slider
3.5"
HTH,
Paul
I chose the answer I did, because I was not able to find a working
combination of PDC20378 and 1TB drives. I don't know of a way to
predict whether they'll work or not. There really shouldn't be a
theoretical reason, why a 1TB drive should fail to work. (With
USB enclosures, they can have trouble anywhere between 200GB and
1TB, again, with no reasonable explanation for why.) So there is
some risk in buying the 1TB drive and connecting it to the
PDC20378.
This card is one way you could move some SATA drives outside the
case, and keep decent performance. This is a four port ESATA card.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16816133002
The Silicon Image site has BIOS you can flash to cards based on
their chipsets. Typically, there is a BIOS image for RAID and
one for non-RAID operation. So there is a possibility to
use a different BIOS and driver set with them.
http://www.siliconimage.com/support/supportsearchresults.aspx?pid=27&cid=15&ctid=2&osid=0&
With respect to moving a rack or moving drives around, I
like to have some cooling on a drive. If the drive is sitting
in stagnant air, you could try a utility that monitors the
SMART data from the drive, such as Speedfan from almico.com .
First, take temperature readings from the drive, in your
current mechanical configuration. Do your mod to the cooling
or whatever, then run Speedfan again and re-check the temps.
If you need to simulate a load on the drive (causes a temp
increase), run the free version of HDTune (hdtune.com) and use
the benchmark function. That will take several minutes to read
the entire drive surface and report a speed result. And while
doing so, you can use Speedfan to monitor drive temperature.
All the drives I'm currently using, have forced air cooling
of one sort or another. My current two drives are right next
to a 120mm intake fan. To make room for the fan in my computer
case, the fan is bolted to the outside of the computer :-) I
made a metal frame to fit it. My CDROM drive is above the
fan assembly, so the tray opens. The three bays below it,
are right next to the fan.
In terms of other ways of packaging drives, one exceptionally
bad solution seems to be external drives/enclosures made
by the major hard drive manufacturers. The enclosures feature
no cooling, and the comments in Newegg note a number of failures.
Some of those fail in as little as a couple days. If the
solution you pick has clean power, good cooling, and
is not subject to shock and vibration, there is no
reason for the reliability to change.
HTH,
Paul
>
> Perhaps you could clarify something for me. The Promise controller on a
> P4C800-E Deluxe motherboard is a PDC2037_6_ (according to the Asus
> owners manual page 2-25). Also, I thought the SATA drives were using the
> Intel ICH5R chipset (page 2-23)?
I see a 20378 in the "storage" section here. A total of four SATA
ports, two on the Southbridge, two on the 20378. I just looked at
my P4C800-E Deluxe, and the 20378 has no heatsink on it. There
are a total of four black colored SATA connectors on the motherboard.
I've only occasionally used my 20378, and not the SATA ports, just
the IDE.
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?modelmenu=2&model=175&l1=3&l2=12&l3=30&l4=0
>
>> With respect to moving a rack
>
> It's a Mobile Rack. A Mobile Rack is a removable hard drive enclosure
> that mounts in a 5.25" bay. You can buy extra trays to mount additional
> hard drives on and then can swap them out as needed by unlocking and
> pulling out the tray.
Yeah, I wasn't sure if that is what you were intending or not. A mobile
rack implies more drives than places to put them, which means some of
your storage is offline. If you're just using them for occasional
access, an external USB could also be used. And then the external can be
stored somewhere out of the way, like the mobile. It doesn't have to be left
plugged in. One strike against a lot of externals, is the move to a separate
power brick. I had a couple enclosures about 5 years ago, that had internal
power, so all they needed was a regular power cord and a data cable (Firewire or USB2).
Your idea is more compact, but might need a bit more space to
accommodate the depth of the rack and its connector scheme.
>
> The computer case I'm using seems to be very hard drive friendly. As you
> can see in the above diagram, I have two hard drives in the upper cage
> which do not have fans sitting in front of them. They run one to two
> degrees different than the same three hard drives with a fan in the
> lower cage. I ran HDTune benchmark on one of the drives in the upper
> cage. It started at 28c and reached 30c by the end of the test (average
> human temp is 37c). I know that the colder the better, but I don't find
> these temps to be alarming. Perhaps it's because the hard drives are
> mounted with _screws_ into all that metal which helps dissipate the
> heat?
Sounds fine. The only time you should really be concerned, is when
the room goes over 60% relative humidity and you can smell mildew
forming in your carpets. Drives are also sensitive to humidity as
well as temperature. The drive has a "breather hole", so the HDA
is exposed to local conditions. There is an allowed environment curve,
in some of the OEM spec documents for hard drives. (But no explanation
accompanies the plot, to help you interpret it.) The curve has always
made me wonder how a computer can work in the tropics.
>
> That's certainly one way to mount a fan. :)
My method is fine, until you stick a finger in it :-) There is
no wire guard over it. I could fit one though.
>
> I wouldn't use one of those air tight hard drive manufacture enclosures
> if it was given to me. The two enclosures I'm using each have their own
> fan and sit in metal boxes with plenty of ventilation holes.
>
> I appreciate the time you've spend following up on this. As for me, the
> only thing I'm sure about is that all of this will become moot if I
> don't buy that HD3850 soon. I have a feeling that those cards are on a
> limited run and I should purchase it soon before they disappear.
That's been true for a lot of those cards. They could disappear
any time. And what remains (stuff like FX5200 cards) is no
substitute. I'm still using an ATI 9800Pro on my machine. I
managed to find a Core2 motherboard that still has an AGP
slot - the machine I'm typing on is a Core2 with AGP.
It is limited to FSB1066 though.
Paul
On the hotfix drivers, did you compare release numbers ? Maybe
that will give you a hint as to which is which. As far as I know,
ATI writes the drivers, so the hotfix on the Sapphire site should
have come from ATI in the first place. I'm not aware of the
video card manufacturers being able to write their own drivers.
They wouldn't have the skills for that.
As for 1TB SATA drives, I do read occasionally of compatibility
problems, so even if a 320GB works, a 1TB may not. This might
have more to do, with changes to the chipset used on the
hard drive controller board, rather than the fact it is 1TB.
In the past, there might have been problems with the SATA
BIOS (on a SIL3112), or with the spread spectrum jumper
setting, or the "force 150" jumper. On the older VIA chipsets,
you're supposed to insert the Force 150 jumper on the hard
drive, as the autonegotiation doesn't work right if the
drive is allowed to choose for itself. But at the 1TB level now,
it may be something to do with the controller on the hard drive,
rather than the motherboard end.
Paul
> > As for 1TB SATA drives, I do read occasionally of compatibility
> > problems, so even if a 320GB works, a 1TB may not. This might have
> > more to do, with changes to the chipset used on the hard drive
> > controller board, rather than the fact it is 1TB. In the past, there
> > might have been problems with the SATA BIOS (on a SIL3112), or with
> > the spread spectrum jumper setting, or the "force 150" jumper. On the
> > older VIA chipsets, you're supposed to insert the Force 150 jumper on
> > the hard drive, as the autonegotiation doesn't work right if the drive
> > is allowed to choose for itself. But at the 1TB level now, it may be
> > something to do with the controller on the hard drive, rather than the
> > motherboard end.
>
> Yeah, I suppose you're right. I'm just pleased that it worked out the
> way it did, although I did purchase the Promise SATA300 as a backup. I
> know the P4C800-E Deluxe is a 4 year old Motherboard, but even after
> these many years it keeps pleasantly surprising me. It's a very solid
> board.
>
> The answer, if the question is ever asked, is yes, the ICH5R SATA
> controller on the P4C800-E Deluxe Motherboard does work with Western
> Digital RE3 1TB drives. Who knows what the future will hold. :)
I use Seagate ST3500320NS on my P4C800-E Deluxe.
SATA 500 GB version. No problem.
http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/products/servers/barracuda_es/barracuda_es.2/