Need help on new system build
Paul
I am putting together a new system with the following parts.....
(Asus P7P55D PRO MB +Intel i7 860 + Antec Nine Hundred Two case + Corsair
TX650 + 4 GB Corsair Dominator)
It's been a while since I last put together a computer systems. I have
couple questions to ask all the expert here as follow.....
1. On the Asus MB, there's a tiny plastic covered over one side of the the
"8-pin EATX12V" which covered over left 4-pins.
I have removed the cover & plugged in the power supply cable to cover all
8-pin. Am I doing it right?
I also conntected the 24-pin connector from the power supply.
The manual says "Do not forget to connect the 8-pin EATX12V power plug;
otherwise, the system will not boot".
so why did they cover up one side of the 8-pins?
2. On the Antec case I did not find the connector for the "System power
LED(2-pin PLED)" & "System warning speaker(4-pin SPEAKER)". Is this
something new. Do I not need those two?
3. I am not familiar with SATA connection. I got a new LG SATA DVD drive
and I am using my old 1 TB Samsung SATA HD,
Do I have to install the SATA HD first and SATA DVD second, or does it
matter in what order?
My old system failed and I moved the SATA HD with Win XP Pro from the old
computer and I got this Win 7 (Upgrade) DVD
that my friend bought for me & download it from Microsoft. I am not sure if
it's bootable DVD disk. How do I go about installing this
Win 7 to this new system? Should I repair the Windows XP first with the
original Win XP DVD and then upgrade to Win 7?
Thanks for your help.
Paul
Paul wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am putting together a new system with the following parts.....
>
> (Asus P7P55D PRO MB +Intel i7 860 + Antec Nine Hundred Two case +
> Corsair TX650 + 4 GB Corsair Dominator)
>
> It's been a while since I last put together a computer systems. I have
> couple questions to ask all the expert here as follow.....
>
> 1. On the Asus MB, there's a tiny plastic covered over one side of the
> the "8-pin EATX12V" which covered over left 4-pins.
> I have removed the cover & plugged in the power supply cable to cover
> all 8-pin. Am I doing it right?
> I also conntected the 24-pin connector from the power supply.
The uncovered four pins, would be sufficient for a processor up to 130W.
So a 2x2 connector is all you need, to run a 130W or less processor.
Using all eight pins, leaves room for more power than that, such as if you
were overclocking a D 805 to 4GHz (200W+).
There are several standards for 2x4 connectors, so you have to be a little
bit careful about using a 2x4 connector. And don't confuse that connector
with the PCI Express 2x4. Some ATX12V connectors come as a 2x4 which splits
into two 2x2 pieces. A PCI Express 2x4, if splittable, splits to a 2x3 and a
2x1. A 2x4 EATX12V would have four yellow 12V wires on one side (and all the exact
same color), and four black wires on the other side. The yellow wires would
all be coming from a single rail like 12V2. The extra pins are there to make
more room for current flow.
Also, before getting too far into your build, read this about LGA1156.
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3661
> The manual says "Do not forget to connect the 8-pin EATX12V power plug;
> otherwise, the system will not boot".
> so why did they cover up one side of the 8-pins?
"Do not forget to connect *something* to the EAXTX12V" :-)
The processor can't run, without a power source.
>
> 2. On the Antec case I did not find the connector for the "System
> power LED(2-pin PLED)" & "System warning speaker(4-pin SPEAKER)". Is
> this something new. Do I not need those two?
The only thing that absolutely must be connected to the motherboard PANEL header,
is the POWER switch. Everything else is optional. If there is a mismatch
between the LED labels or control switches on the case, with respect to the
PANEL header, you connect just the ones that make sense. For example, if
a computer case is missing a RESET switch, well, it doesn't have to be
connected. But if a user wants to RESET, it is going to suck not having
a switch. The same goes with LEDs. Some cases may have a "MESSAGE" LED,
and you won't have anything on the PANEL header to connect to it. Such is life.
I checked the manual, and nope, there is no Power LED. Drill a hole
and add one, if you want. I'm sure it makes more sense to use the HDD
LED for actually indicating HDD activity, than to hijack it and make
a POWER LED from it.
http://www.antec.com/pdf/manuals/900II_EN_manual.pdf
You can get a LED at RadioShack, add two wire twisted pair to it,
and connect that to the header.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103802
If you need crimp pins and plastic shrouds, FrontX carries those.
They stock a 1x2 plastic shroud, suitable for use with wiring up a LED.
I've managed to get a few bits and pieces like this from a local store.
I do this sometimes, if I need a LED cable for a Promise Ultra133 TX2
IDE card HDD activity pins.
http://www.frontx.com/order_c.html
>
> 3. I am not familiar with SATA connection. I got a new LG SATA DVD
> drive and I am using my old 1 TB Samsung SATA HD,
> Do I have to install the SATA HD first and SATA DVD second, or does it
> matter in what order?
SATA cables are independent. There is no notion of Master and Slave,
like on IDE cables. The only useful jumper on a SATA hard drive, is the
Force150 jumper, and that is only needed with VIA chipsets. Check your
manual, in case the SATA connectors are placed in groups, and one of the
groups is on a RAID controller or something. Try just using
connectors on the Southbridge ports, and starting with Port 1 etc.
Sometimes, you need to invest in just the right cable, to be able to
use all the ports. Cables come in straight, right angle, left angle,
to name a few. The angled ones are for cases where the cables bump
into one another, or otherwise get in the way.
While SATA cables are independent, there are obscure expansion methods
for "making more connectors". You can buy a box, that converts one
SATA connector into five connectors, for about $100. I only mention
that, as an adjunct to the "no notion of Master and Slave" statement.
I don't think I've run into anyone, who has taken advantage of
that kind of function yet. You need to do the research, before buying
one of these, as their usage has a few details.
>
> My old system failed and I moved the SATA HD with Win XP Pro from the
> old computer and I got this Win 7 (Upgrade) DVD
> that my friend bought for me & download it from Microsoft. I am not
> sure if it's bootable DVD disk. How do I go about installing this
> Win 7 to this new system? Should I repair the Windows XP first with the
> original Win XP DVD and then upgrade to Win 7?
>
> Thanks for your help.
You should check a few web sites, to understand the install options for
Windows 7. I understand it is a clean install. If you buy an upgrade DVD,
there is even a danger it will invalidate the WinXP install it sees
as proof of an upgrade source.
Check for tricks, such as installing Windows 7 twice, as a workaround
for the "upgrade DVD" problem. There should be a few web sites that
address what to do. (I don't have Windows 7, and won't be able to afford
it any time soon, so I'll be using WinXP for a while longer.)
As for support, Microsoft hasn't created any USENET groups in microsoft.* for
Win7 questions. There is alt.windows7.general on a few USENET servers,
but not on all of them. Microsoft wants you to use a web based forum
hosted on their site, when asking questions about Win7. So that is
another place you could look for details about handling an upgrade DVD.
I wouldn't pop that DVD in the drive just yet... You always have to be
on the lookout for dirty tricks. Caveat emptor ("buyer beware") was a
term coined just for dealing with Microsoft.
Paul
Paul
Have a great holiday!
"Paul" <nos...@needed.com> wrote in message
news:hfnle1$shh$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Jim
http://www.winsupersite.com/win7/
If you have WinXP installed on the hard drive you can boot from the Win7
(upgrade) DVD and do a clean (custom) install. If it sees the WinXP on
the system then it will validate.
Jim