Pelikan: EX nib on new pen is scratchy--what to do, where to go
Donna Peach
and thinking perhaps the problem might go away, I am resigned to admit
the nib is just a bit scratchy. The nib grabs paper fibers as it
travels laterally. I thought maybe writing with it would smooth it
out, but that has not happened. I wonder whether the flex in the EF
18k nib causes this sort of thing; is this typical?
I noted SWR is the US distributor, but I saw somewhere online that
they no longer are and that I have to deal with Pelikan in Germany.
Anybody have a suggestion?
MarkH
These pens are not that flexible. That probably has nothing to do with
it.
The nib tines are probably out of adjustment slightly, and may also
need smoothing. You could send it to the importer - now Chartpack
http://www.chartpak.com/index.html or to a pen repair specialist.
If it were my pen I would do it myself - its not that hard. If I
wasn't going to do it, I would spend the money to send to a repair
expert. Its more expensive than warranty service from Chartpack but
the results are more likely to be what you want. Probably quicker
also.
A EF nib will never be as smooth as a broader nib - even when
perfectly adjusted. Also more so than broader nibs, too much pressure
when writing will sometimes increase the problem - all the more reason
for the nib to be perfectly adjusted, so it flows without any
pressure.
These nibs are also more sensitive to paper quality. Paper with a
somewhat rough surface may catch on a EF nib though it wouldn't on a
broader nib.
But when properly tuned, an EF nib should be perfectly usable - you
should be able to write a letter to your favorite auntie without
always thinking about how the pen is behaving.
good luck,
mh
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Donna Peach
to handle this myself. I think I'd like to do that. I recognize that
an EX is a bit fussier, but I'm a light writer used to a fine nib and
aware of the paper response.
What are some suggestions for honing the nib myself? I have one e-mail
from someone that looks quite thorough in description and easy for me
to follow. However, if anyone else has had luck with doing this
successfully, I'd appreciate any tips.
Thanks again for writing.
MarkH <no...@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<6ol5du008cml8c3tm...@4ax.com>...
Ken Freeman
coordination. What most people on this group start with is a book called Da
Book, written by Frank Dubiel. It's terse, excellent, and useful, and costs
about $20 from Frank or from many of the on-line pen dealers. I use 2000
paper and a fine Arkansas stone. It IS possible to go too far - remember
you are literally cutting off metal that cannot be replaced.
Ken
"Donna Peach" <dhor...@uci.edu> wrote in message
news:856acb9d.02050...@posting.google.com...
MarkH
Here is why I think you probably don't want to do this yourself.
1. If this is the first pen you have adjusted/tuned, you stand the
risk of damaging and possibly ruining a nib that is ovefr $100 to
replace. Start with something cheap.
2. Before you can do this successfully, it helps to have the right
tools. First and foremost, you need eyes - a 10x loupe would be ideal.
3. I find it helps to have a range of abrasives - I have purchases
mylar sheets from MicroMark, along with super fine finishing mylar
from David Nishimura.
Numbers 2 and 3 imply an investment, which won't be paid back by doing
a single pen.
4. Finally, you need some help - Franks book (as someone else
mentioned) is invaluable. But no book substitutes for the practice of
doing this multiple times. And screwing it up, and rescuing the nib
you damage, and completely ruining a nib (#1), etc... Its much
cheaper, unless you are a hopeless addict (like me) to pay someone
else to do it.
good luck.
mh
Tim McNamara
dhor...@uci.edu (Donna Peach) wrote:
> I just got the M800 with an EF nib. After writing with it a few weeks
> and thinking perhaps the problem might go away, I am resigned to
> admit the nib is just a bit scratchy. The nib grabs paper fibers as
> it travels laterally. I thought maybe writing with it would smooth it
> out, but that has not happened. I wonder whether the flex in the EF
> 18k nib causes this sort of thing; is this typical?
Your description makes it pretty clear that the tines aren't adjusted
properly. It's probably the most common nib problem in fountain pens
and can easily be adjusted with the fingernails and light pressure.
My Pelikan 400 EF is a superbly smooth writer, smoother than any Parker
nib I have ever written with and as smooth as the best Sheaffer I have
ever written with. The shape of the "iridium" is just oval enough to
give a very nice subtle line variation- it is very very close to being
my ideal nib and is one of my two or three favorite pens. Like yours,
mine was just a tiny bit scratchy at first. A 10x loupe made it easy to
see what had to be done to adjust the nib to write smoothly.
> I noted SWR is the US distributor, but I saw somewhere online that
> they no longer are and that I have to deal with Pelikan in Germany.
No, Chartpak in the US is now the distributor. You could send it to
them, I suppose, or they might be able to recommend a dealer locally who
could do the adjustment (this is less and less common- pen dealers
typically have little or no interest or expertise in repairing pens. I
don't understand it, myself- would you buy a car from a dealer that had
no clue about repairing cars?).
If you tell us roughly where you live, someone might be able to point
you towards a local place to get it adjusted. Unless you want to learn
to do it yourself, that is. But I'd start with a cheap pen or two
before doing anything to your nice Pelikan.
Jim Holman
and thinking perhaps the problem might go away, I am resigned to admit
the nib is just a bit scratchy.
The pen is still under warranty, so I would send it to Chartpak for
adjustment or repair. A few months ago Chartpak had a pretty slow
turnaround time but they have improved considerably.
I had a problem with the medium nib that came with my M800, so I sent
it to Chartpak in order to exercise my "nib exchange rights." Only
six days after they received it, I got the pen back with a wonderful
extra-fine nib installed. Prior to getting the extra-fine nib, I
enjoyed using the M800, but it didn't seem like anything very special
to me. But the extra-fine nib is terrific, and the M800 instantaly
became my favorite pen, and I could finally see why Pelikan pens are
so well-liked.
The EF nib that I have is not at all scratchy -- quite the opposite.
It glides over the surface of the paper like an eagle floating through
a cloudless sky, or like a raindrop running off of newly-waxed
Porsche. (Sorry, got carried away there.) A friend tried the pen,
and threatened to keep it. He said that he always liked medium nibs
on fountian pens, until he tried the M800 with the EF nib. The pen
writes flawlessly, and has never snagged or hesitated on any paper
that I have used. This is the kind of experience that you should be
having with that pen, and if you're not, then give your pen a Chartpak
vacation.
jim holman
DovR
doubt, DON'T!
Especially when you are dealing with a nib over a hundred bucks or so.
Frank's book is invaluable and Da Man fdu...@aol.com man will gladly sell
you Da Book. He is probably peddling it in Chicago right now so if you are
near the vicinity Rosemount and the Westin-O'Hare Hotel, pop by for Da Book
and myriad pen goodies. You can buy from him online at about 20greens
inclusive of the autograph, spiral binding and multifold information as to
the repair and restoration of fountain pens. Sounds like I am an agent of Da
Book or something ;-) Seriously though, it's a must have for any collector
and wannabe repairer. Fact is to become a fine hand at honing you need to
practice on cheapies before you go to the big stuff. Practice makes almost
perfect.
John Mottishaw is the best nib man around town (the world more likely) but
any good repairer like my friend Nathan Tardiff, scau...@aol.com or Joel
Hamilton jo...@ink-pen.com can see you right and it should not be that
much.
Pelikan generally have a lifetime guarantee and unlike precious resins tend
to abide and honor their fine products. Dunno about Chartpack as I am not
stateside. Local agent here repairs themselves if they are able under
guarantee or else send to Germany and pen is returned fully repaired or
replaced. Happened to me not once, but thrice.Gammy 800 nib, replaced
locally, M1000 cracked after fall and sent to Hamburg for replacement,
vintage 100n leaked from the top, ruined many shirts, no-one could fix and
Kravitz, the Pelikan people sent off to Hanover. The piston system was
refurbished (or replaced I am not sure, their fillers have remained the same
for donkey's years.) Pen now like a dream, exactly like it did for the guy
who had it before me, 50 years ago. Because of the extreme delay they gave 6
bottles of different Pelikan inks for the wait. No charge on any of these
repairs. All were more than a year old. The 100 over 50.
One of the reasons so many of us love Pelikans. They are great pens to boot.
My pen and nib's worth.
Dov
"Tim McNamara" <tim...@mac.com> wrote in message news:timmcn-