Any operators with NSM Evolution touch screen boxes
Pin...@aol.com
touch screen juke in their shop.
I am building a touch screen box for the home and using the door and
touchscreen from an NSM Evolution. I am installing my own amp and PC
into an NSM wall box juke and I do not have an e-cast core or hard
drive. I just want to make use of the NSM Evolution door and screen.
The door has 5 florescent lights and small white electronic ballasts
mounted on the backside.
There is a connector on the back center of the door that someone said
needed 110v, ( that connector feeds the electronic ballasts.
I connected 110 v to the plug and all of the florescents lit except
the top one behind the top marquis. The electronic ballasts say 220v
and the then the 2nd tech from NSM told me they take 220v. He said
they use a step-up transformer to convert the 110 to 220 v for the
florescents.
Question: If that's the case, how did 4 of 5 florescents light with
only 110V???
I changed the top bulb but the new one doesn't work either. I do have
a new electronic (spare) ballast from the kit, but I am not sure how
to remove the existing original connectors from the original ballast.
Also, I found a small silver box with a output cable that mates
perfectly to the plug for the input to the electronic ballasts on the
back of the door. (This box looks like an EFI filter box. It says:
FN2080-3-06
I connected these input connectors to 110v and measured the output on
the other side of the
FN2080-3-06 unit. It is still 110v. So I guess this is not the step-
up unit.
The big question is : What input voltage can you measure going into
those spade connectors at the input side of the box. Is there 220v
output coming out of the NSM power supply or a separate step-up unit
somewhere??
I am trying to get this ready for the xmas party. Any help is
appreciated and if you like you can mail me at Pinball at AOL
Most of the operators in Florida here seem to be running Touch Tunes.
Thanks,
Randy
This unit has an input cable that has 2 insullated spade connectors.
kreed
I dont know this particular unit, but I can provide general advice.
Link to a schematic, and or pics of the parts in question would help
enormously.
1> if the thing is a switchmode type device, and is designed for 240v,
it probably will run from 120v, but it won't
deliver the required output current. (you need to rewire it for 120,
or at least upgrade the main filter capacitor by doubling the
capacitance / halving the voltage rating. (240v use 400v rated, 120v
use 200v rated.)
2> If its like others I have seen (such as ROWE AMI electronic
ballast), it will have a common lamp supply rail, and an inductor in
series with each separate lamp to limit it's individual current (note
- this does the exact same job as a ballast in a normal lamp, in this
case its much smaller as the operating frequency is higher. A small
capacitor is used instead of the traditional starter.
Check the wiring of this inductor to the faulty lamp, and the inductor
itself for open circuits. (it will probably look like a small
transformer). Note that there can be dangerous voltage on this
electronic ballast, and if the internal caps are charged, it can
"bite" you even after being turned off.
If you cant get it going, go and buy a compact fluro of the SAME (or
close) wattage to the tube that wont work, cut it open and wire it to
the lamp that wont work. You could use a mains powered ballast, but
they get hotter, and a digital wallbox is a furnace inside as it is,
with the PC and amp producing much heat.
Warning, dangerous voltages involved, take care.
