Exterior wood surfaces

[David Rassenti]

Could anyone recommend the ideal type of paint for use on exterior wood
surfaces? I have had conflicting advice. (acrylic, oil or latex)
Any thoughts appreciated.
dr

[Pat Strong]

David Rassenti wrote:

It is most important to prepare the wood well. There is a great primer by
Benjamin Moore.. it is solvent based (oil), but you can paint acrylic (latex)
on top. Good prep and solid priming with this kind of primer, and then an
acrylic paint because the film breathes better than the oil based kind.

Pat

[AndyK]

If the wood is unpainted- Sand(!), prime with alkyd (oil), back prime if
possible, top coat with acrylic.
If previously painted- Clean thoroughly, remove any failed coating, de gloss
shiny areas, spot prime "raw" wood areas with alkyd, prime with acrylic, top
coat with acrylic.

The terms Latex and Acrylic are not clearly defined with paint, many top
quality paints that are labeled as "acrylic" could also be considered
"latex". Many paint companies have gone to using the term acrylic only
because they see the public thinking that latex means a lesser product.
Choose from the top consumer line of reputable "name brand" mfg and ignore
the latex/acrylic sales hype!

Andy

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"David Rassenti" <dav...@total.net> wrote in message
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[David Rassenti]

Thanks for the advice Andyk. Tried to send thanks to your address but
was blocked. Anyway thanks and I hope the group continues to respond to
these kind of questions.
dr
AndyK <spamersshou...@brain.prostate> wrote in message
news:67OL6.21523$ZC6.3...@news02.optonline.net...

[SYC Painting]

Sikkens solid stain. It is self priming and two coats will do a fine job.
I believe it to be one of the best products on the market.

Dennis

"David Rassenti" <dav...@total.net> wrote in message
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[Gerald Mulnix]

There has for a long time been a serious conversation about which is better.
Exhaustive test results have found that each species of wood is different
and responds differently to coatings. Generally speaking, it is accepted
that on bare wood that has been sanded, acrylic primers (formulated for
exterior application) perform very well. Alkyd and oil systems have a good
history with redo paint jobs.
Wood is dimensionally non-stable. It is always moving. The acrylic family of
primers generally work well with this situation. Acrylics also breathe more
and allow moisture from inside the building to leave from inside to the
outside. This is desirable. Alkyd (oil) systems tend to trap moisture and
allow less moisture to leave buildings. This requires the use of vents to
aid in moisture loss from the building.
On my house, I would use the acrylic primer brushed into the wood surface-
two coats allowing 6 hours between coats and I would not paint in direct
sunlight. I would sand the surface first and then wipe it down with water to
open the pores. Make sure the primer has good pigmentation and mildewcide
content. Zinc oxide pigments and tannin blocking pigments are helpful to
develop a good film for topcoats. Do not overthin the paint.
Jerry Mulnix

"David Rassenti" <dav...@total.net> wrote in message
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[KnH Paint]

>Generally speaking, it is accepted
>that on bare wood that has been sanded, acrylic primers (formulated for
>exterior application) perform very well.

I remember reading not too long ago that this system is recommended for pine,
birch or poplar but is not recommended for cedars. I"ll see if i can find the
source for that information.

ken

[pudge]

I would say that Geral is partly correct in that each specie sof wood is
different. Don't confuse species with structure. Plywood should have a good
exterior latex primer. Redwood and Cedar an alkyd may be best choice because of
the potential for tannin bleed, a natural occurring substance in thes woods.
For exterior your choices are really acrylic and alkyd. Oil is an outdated term
replaced by alkyd resin.

Whether an acrylic or alkyd breathe more is not relative to exterior wood
primers.
Primers are by design are built with more binder (adhesive, glue, sticky
whatever you want to call it) to ensure adhesion to the substrate and provide a
good anchor for subsequent topcaots. Primers do not weather well and should not
be left untopcoated, read a label. Putting on two (2) coats of primer would be
an awful waste of time, money and product. Primer does nothing to protect the
surface. If you really take the time to read and digest the label on a quality
exterior acrylic latex you will find it recomends two topcoats for the best
performance and longest life of the system.

Don't forget to check areas needing to be caulk, rusty nail heads and other
areas needing attention before "slapping" some paint on.

If this is new construction back priming the wood is a good idea.

Sorry so long winded, Best idea is a trip to your local paint store or
dealer. Go mid morning or mid afternoon he probably will be more than willing
to tell you what you need as you can have a dialog. I shop at the big boxes but
not when I am seeking professional help. I f you visit a paint dealer or store
and he serves you well then give him your business. He has added value to your
project and deserves the few more dollars for his product.. If a house takes 10
gallons of paint and is $5.00/gallon more that is a $50.00 investment on what a
$75 or $100,000 dollar house pretty cheap price to protect your investment.

All wood should be sanded or as fresh as possible, even new wood exposed for as
little as a week before being coated is a somewhat compromised system.

[bob simpson]

What about previously semi-transparent stained cedar? (Olympic oil
based) I am thinking of changing over to a solid colour stain. Can I
just apply the solid stain directly over the siding? Can any type of
solid colour stain go over oil based stain? What type of surface prep
should be done first?

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[Gerald Mulnix]

I would think this would work. Check with the manufacturer first. Make sure
you read the instructions on the can. Go to a local dependable paint store
for best advice. Use the 800 numbers available to you for paint advice. You
can usually find these numbers in the paint store or on the label of the
product. Best of luck.
"bob simpson" <rsimpso...@bmts.com> wrote in message
news:3b44d048...@news.bmts.com...

[suman.d...@gmail.com]

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