Faux Painting

[mfp]

A classic example of overlapping seams!
Are you using latex glazing medium or alkyd?

Don Krtanjek <krta...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:8siug9$5ik$1...@bob.news.rcn.net...
> We have used a ragging off technique for applying a faux finish and have
> some noticeably dark edges at the transitions between 2'x2' areas where
the
> glaze tint was applied. What are the suggestions for blending this to be
> lighter and fit better with the rest of the wall? A photo of the wall
> showing the darker areas is attached.
>
>
>
>
>

[Pat Strong]

Don Krtanjek wrote:

> We have used a ragging off technique for applying a faux finish and have
> some noticeably dark edges at the transitions between 2'x2' areas where the
> glaze tint was applied. What are the suggestions for blending this to be
> lighter and fit better with the rest of the wall? A photo of the wall
> showing the darker areas is attached.
>

> [Image]

This is the hardest thing. We call it "mapping" because it looks like the
edges of a map. There are a couple of things to try before you throw up your
hands and re-base coat the whole wall (edge to edge only). One, the mapping is
caused by letting one area dry too much when working the adjacent area, the
line is a doubling of the glaze. I have softened this effect by,

1. Not letting it happen. Work like gangbusters with ethylene glycol or
Flowtrol in your glaze mix, so that the wet edge is always pushed into the next
arms reach.

2. Plan on it happening. It is hot. The wall is 12' high and 45' long. You
are going to have a dry edge unless you have teams of wall appliers and supply
persons. If you plan it right, the edges are faint, they follow the rhythm of
the whole wall effect, and one's eye doesn't worry about them at all. I
generally plan a work area that doesn't look like an arm's reach... but more
like a masonry crack. Don't make arc lines with your arm movement, vary it.
Don't go around the room at one level and then go back and do the bottom... it
leaves a horizontal stripe just so big and your "hand" is too visible in the
surface. Don't do vertical stripes either, but go in randomly meandering
diagonals. Compose the whole wall.

3. Ok. It happened and you could tell exactly how tall you are by the
regularity of the marks your arm made. You can,
a. mix some of your base color with some glaze... it needs to be pretty
opaque or it will be really muddy, and sparsely sponge over the stripes. Break
the line up and let this dry. Then dilute your final glaze and glaze over the
area again without following the line, but including it. You want to average
out the effect. You will be creating new "lines" and over glazed areas, but if
you dilute the glaze by about half, you can sort of average it out. You have
to break up the dark line first, though or it will just continue to get darker,
or.....
b. Dilute your glaze by about half, and go over the whole wall again,
AVOIDING the dark stripe... this will darken the whole wall a bit, but it evens
out the marks.

4. Base coat the wall in the underlying color, and let it dry. Start over and
use that Flowtrol!

Pat

[David Sorg]

I assume that you used a water-based glaze, which is difficult to use
because of its short open time, particularly for negative techniques which
require a certain amount of slipperiness for it to work. The lap lines are a
result of not keeping a wet edge, of course.

Unfortunately, there is little you can probably do to repair these lines
without creating another set of distinguishing marks. A better use of time
is probably to start over. (Sorry.) With water-base, try to use three
people; one who is applying the glaze just ahead of the person who creates
the "gross" texture, who is being followed by the "fine" texture and detail
person. Best is if you're all friends, 'cause you'll be close. Be sure your
basecoat is of at least a satin or higher sheen.

Alkyd products are easier to use, both in terms of time of workability and
in "workable-ness" but they do stink more and require ventilation and/or
respirators.
--
David Sorg
How-to videotapes for natural, faux,
and decorative paint finishes.
http://www.FineFurnitureFinishing.com

"Don Krtanjek" <krta...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:8siug9$5ik$1...@bob.news.rcn.net...