Decorative painting question
k
I recently started getting into decorative painting, and for anyone that
does this a lot, I have a question.
I have one room that I want to use a dragging technique on, where it
looks kind of linen-like -- and I have an idea in my mind of what I want
it to look like, but I have a really bad sense of what goes with what,
and I have trouble figuring out which colors of base / glaze are going
to give that look. If you're using a glaze over a base coat, do you
generally use a darker glaze over a lighter base coat, or the other way
around?
That particular room has a very light almond carpeting, and the window
blind is about that color also. Naturals and earth-tones are always
pretty safe, but I'm getting bored with them, so I'm trying to figure
out what is going to look not so drab, but not gaudy either. I hate to
use the walls of that room as a practice area!
Some guidelines anyone, on how you determine what it's going to look
like before spending lots of $$$ on the coatings?
Rojo2G
>like before spending lots of $$$ on the coatings?
proprietary to H.Des. so many bookstores will have them too.
A few years ago I was given a video from Ben. Moore as a promo on faux
finishes. You may inquire to a B. Moore dealer and see if they have a loaner.
Paul Broussard
Most paint stores also carry some type of specialty line that will make
decorative finishes, and come pre-made. If you want something different
from that, a trip to Barnes and Nobles or Books-a-Million to check out
books on decorative finishes will give you a wealth of info. I have
bought 5 books on recommendations from faux finishers, but for a
homeowner, physically browsing the books, and purchasing the one that
has the look you want is more practical.
It will cost $100 or so to experiment. You'll need several sheets of
drywall (cut in pieces for sample boards), a book or two, quarts of
paint and glaze, brushes, rags, and other material.
There are also several website dedicated to faux/decorative finishes. A
web search will provide you with tons of sites to visit.
--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
http://www.broussardpaint.bigstep.com/
Need a painter? http://www.qpainter.com
David Sorg
http://www.finefurniturefinishing.com/newsletter2.html , but the best thing
is to experiment with light over dark versus dark over light, etc. to see
what you get. As you get closer to the result you want, make your samples
larger so you'll have a better idea of the finished effect.
--
David Sorg
How-to videotapes for natural, faux,
and decorative paint finishes.
http://www.FineFurnitureFinishing.com
"k" <khe...@nospamherepleaseskypoint.com> wrote in message
news:39CE1B6F...@nospamherepleaseskypoint.com...
>
> I recently started getting into decorative painting, and for anyone that
> does this a lot, I have a question.
>
> I have one room that I want to use a dragging technique on, where it
> looks kind of linen-like -- and I have an idea in my mind of what I want
> it to look like, but I have a really bad sense of what goes with what,
> and I have trouble figuring out which colors of base / glaze are going
> to give that look. If you're using a glaze over a base coat, do you
> generally use a darker glaze over a lighter base coat, or the other way
> around?
>
> That particular room has a very light almond carpeting, and the window
> blind is about that color also. Naturals and earth-tones are always
> pretty safe, but I'm getting bored with them, so I'm trying to figure
> out what is going to look not so drab, but not gaudy either. I hate to
> use the walls of that room as a practice area!
>
Byron
Go to your local building supply yard. Buy 1/4" drywall or if that
is unavailable, which is the case in many places, buy 3/8" drywall. It
is 4' x 8'. Now with a straight-edge and knife cut it it half to make
two 4' x 4' panels. Cut those in half
to make 4 2' x 4' panels, then finally cut those in half and you will
have 8 2' x 2' panels to use to make samples of various base coat /
glaze coat combinations.
If you bring your straight-edge to the supply yard you can do the
cutting there and throw those panels in the back of the car, in the
trunk, or even carry them on the bus if need be. They can be painted
over again and again, giving you the opportunity to
freely experiment without using the walls in your room. Color is a
function of light.
You must see color in the light it will live in.
B
Pat Strong
> I recently started getting into decorative painting, and for anyone that
> does this a lot, I have a question.
>
> I have one room that I want to use a dragging technique on, where it
> looks kind of linen-like -- and I have an idea in my mind of what I want
> it to look like, but I have a really bad sense of what goes with what,
> and I have trouble figuring out which colors of base / glaze are going
> to give that look. If you're using a glaze over a base coat, do you
> generally use a darker glaze over a lighter base coat, or the other way
> around?
>
> That particular room has a very light almond carpeting, and the window
> blind is about that color also. Naturals and earth-tones are always
> pretty safe, but I'm getting bored with them, so I'm trying to figure
> out what is going to look not so drab, but not gaudy either. I hate to
> use the walls of that room as a practice area!
Why not? If you're going to paint anyway, you can always overpaint the
"practice area" before you start for reals. Just don't go to heavy or the
texture will show through.
> Some guidelines anyone, on how you determine what it's going to look
> like before spending lots of $$$ on the coatings?
Go to Home Depot.... have them cut up a sheet of masonite into 2' x2'
tiles. Paint away. You can practice with their mistints, they are cheaper,
but you won't have as much control over the exact shades.
One trick, don't use colors that are way separated from each other in value
( lightness or darkness). As a beginner, you might not want to do anything
too garish or with really bright colors... or with electric combinations
like green and red. They can all be very effective in the right place in
the right combinations, but you have to develop your color sense first.
Of course, it's only masonite. The only way you will know what it is going
to look like is to DO it.
Have fun.
Pat
Pat Strong
> >Some guidelines anyone, on how you determine what it's going to look
> >like before spending lots of $$$ on the coatings?
> HomeDespot has several books on just what you're asking. They're not
> proprietary to H.Des. so many bookstores will have them too.
> A few years ago I was given a video from Ben. Moore as a promo on faux
> finishes. You may inquire to a B. Moore dealer and see if they have a loaner.
You might find some basic techniques in the books, but for the most part
I think the books are bogus. O.K. Maybe the Jacosta Innes books, but I could
never follow her recipes. I just look at the picture, and make my boards look
like hers. :)
Pat