Stalling problem
Gregg Sciabica
made almost non-drivable. When the car is started, it will only run
with your foot on the gas. As soon as the gas pedal is lifted, it
stalls out. Once the problem occurs, it can sometimes last the entire
trip, meanig that at every stop it stalls unless you manage to brake
while holding in the gas a bit.
When it happens: After it has been driven, then parked for 1 - 2
hours. I have not had it happen yet after it has been parked for a long
time or very short (5 minutes) time. It is at it's absolute worst on
hot and humid days.
Things I've replaced since the problem developed: Spark plugs,
distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, spark plug wires, air filter,
and the cam shaft cover gasket. I also had a shop clean the injectors.
I've had a local garage check it out, and then a Ford dealer, neither
could fix it.
Any ideas? I'm stuck taking my wife to and from work until this gets
fixed. Please help.
Jon Susiak
distributor if you live in the UK like me, as parts not available separately
here)
There is a well documented problem "hard start or stall after hot soak".
Ford have issued a Technical Service Bulletin TSB #97137 about this problem,
follow the link below for more details:
www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx
If this fails get your sensors checked, or do it yourself by following the
instructions at this link:
www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx/p_m19.htm
If having tried all that and you still have a problem then you are in the
same position as me ! Someone suggested it might have to do with the
immobiliser but I am waiting for further details.
Best of luck !
Mike
>First replace the ignition module and coil in the distributor, (or full
>distributor if you live in the UK like me, as parts not available separately
>here)
>There is a well documented problem "hard start or stall after hot soak".
>Ford have issued a Technical Service Bulletin TSB #97137 about this problem,
>follow the link below for more details:
> www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx
Just a quick correction: the Ford TSB 97137 applies only to the 1993
and 1994 Probe GT with the 2.5L V6. AFAIK, the 2.0L ignitor module
doesn't have a history of failure like the 2.5's.
Having said that, it's still a good idea to check the strength of the
spark when it's hard to start and, if necessary, replace the ignitor
module if it's proven to be the problem.
>If this fails get your sensors checked, or do it yourself by following the
>instructions at this link:
>
>www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx/p_m19.htm
>
>If having tried all that and you still have a problem then you are in the
>same position as me ! Someone suggested it might have to do with the
>immobiliser but I am waiting for further details.
>Best of luck !
If it hasn't been done, it might be worth hooking up a fuel pressure
gauge to the fuel rail and watching it during these hard-start and
stalling conditions.
Another possibility is an EGR problem. A valve that is stuck slightly
open will constitute a vacuum leak (EGR is supposed to be closed
during idle) and may cause hard starting and idling problems.
----
Mike
94PGT
www.golden.net/~trinity
95ProbeSE
http://members.home.net:80/wennfred/Probe.html
Mike P.
> Yes it does.... All SE 2.OL have this same problem.
>
It may, but Ford's TSB #97137 does not specifically include the 2.0L ignitor in its
wording. Check out http://www.bradbury.cwc.net/probemx/images/tsbpg15.gif to see
the first page of the TSB. They refer to the 2.5, not the 2.0
----
Mike
94PGT
www.golden.net\~trinity
95ProbeSE
I had that problem at 33,000 miles others between 30,000 to 55,000
miles.
Rick and Belinda Poore
Gregg Sciabica wrote:
> My wife's 93 Ford Probe SE has developed a stalling problem which has
> made almost non-drivable. When the car is started, it will only run
> with your foot on the gas. As soon as the gas pedal is lifted, it
> stalls out. Once the problem occurs, it can sometimes last the entire
> trip, meanig that at every stop it stalls unless you manage to brake
> while holding in the gas a bit.
The same problem was happening to my 93 Ford Probe with the 2.0L engine.
My mechanic found that the idle speed control valve was gummed up and
wouldn't open to allow any air into the engine so it could idle. He
cleaned it out but won't guarantee that the problem wouldn't return.
It idles fine now.
He recommended an intake cleaning to remove carbon buildups; they put
some type of strong cleaning fluid into the intake to clean out builtup
carbon deposits from the intake, valves and exhaust. If the problem
returns, the idle speed control valve will have to be replaced - $400
for the part from the Ford dealer. I haven't checked the Mazda dealer
for their price.
The idle speed control valve (also called the "idle air control" and
"bypass air valve" in some of the repair books) sits on top of the
throttle body assembly.
----
Rick
Mike
>
> Right thats what the TSB, Ask other SE owners and see..
> I had that problem at 33,000 miles others between 30,000 to 55,000
> miles.
>
Might be worth going to Ford to see if they've issued a TSB specific to
this engine then.
I wasn't implying that the igniter on the 2.0L doesn't fail. Rather, I
was saying that the Ford TSB #97137 doesn't mention the 2.0L in the "hot
soak hard start and stall" description, only the 2.5L V6.
I also said, previously, that "AFAIK, the 2.0L ignitor module doesn't
have a history of failure like the 2.5's." and I'm probably right. I
don't think that *every* 2.0L igniter is destined to fail like *every*
1993 and 1994 PGT igniter will, otherwise Ford would've issued a TSB for
the 2.0L like they did for the 2.5L. Then again, if they start failing
wholesale, maybe a TSB _will_ appear when enough dealers replace enough
of them.
Anyway, check the OASIS system for a TSB on the issue. Maybe Ford will
help out with replacement costs.
WEBB...@webtv.net
meet the plugs. If you have ever washed the engine compartment.
Jason Hanko
Derek Johnson
week ago. I was driving on the highway (about sixty) and the engine just cut
out and the tach went to zero. I wasn't able to restart the car as it
coasted to a stop, but after a brief stop in which I shut the key off it
started up fine. It has happened twice after that.
I checked out the description about "stall after Heat soak" and about
changing the ignition and coils. It sounds like this is exactly the problem.
My question is----Has anybody had the same problem and done this themselves?
I have a little knowledge around cars. Is it something I can do myself and
is it worth it, or is this something I should bring to the shop? If I bring
it to the shop, should I just have them do this procedure, or will they have
to do a whole diagnostic (app. $100) before hand?
Any comments welcome,
Thanks
Derek
Gregg Sciabica <GS...@Worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3790DC8F...@Worldnet.att.net...
> My wife's 93 Ford Probe SE has developed a stalling problem which has
> made almost non-drivable. When the car is started, it will only run
> with your foot on the gas. As soon as the gas pedal is lifted, it
> stalls out. Once the problem occurs, it can sometimes last the entire
> trip, meanig that at every stop it stalls unless you manage to brake
> while holding in the gas a bit.
>
Billy T
about a month ago and got some suggestions, but like an idiot, I deleted the
files my newsgroups are saved on. I have done everything you've done with
no success, please let me know if you find something that works.
thanks,
billy T
Gregg Sciabica wrote in message <3790DC8F...@Worldnet.att.net>...
Mike
Derek Johnson wrote:
>
> I'm having a "similar" problem. My 93 PGT just started acting up about a
> week ago. I was driving on the highway (about sixty) and the engine just cut
> out and the tach went to zero. I wasn't able to restart the car as it
> coasted to a stop, but after a brief stop in which I shut the key off it
> started up fine. It has happened twice after that.
> I checked out the description about "stall after Heat soak" and about
> changing the ignition and coils. It sounds like this is exactly the problem.
> My question is----Has anybody had the same problem and done this themselves?
> I have a little knowledge around cars. Is it something I can do myself and
> is it worth it, or is this something I should bring to the shop? If I bring
> it to the shop, should I just have them do this procedure, or will they have
> to do a whole diagnostic (app. $100) before hand?
> Any comments welcome,
> Thanks
> Derek
>
Yep. Try going to my website at home.golden.net/~trinity and finding the
distributor link. It shows how to do the job yourself and what parts to
order. As well, there's a part number for a NAPA remanufactured
distributor there too if you choose to go that route.
Good luck,
cr...@home.com
<der...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I'm having a "similar" problem. My 93 PGT just started acting up about a
>week ago. I was driving on the highway (about sixty) and the engine just cut
>out and the tach went to zero. I wasn't able to restart the car as it
>coasted to a stop, but after a brief stop in which I shut the key off it
>started up fine. It has happened twice after that.
Ok that's enough.
After reading WAY TOO MANY articles similar to the above, I have
now officially decided not to get a Ford Probe.
I am not going to have a car that is a money pit and has 20 different
bugs and incurable problems and that makes me worry that the car will
break down every time I take it out.
Forget it. I've been reading this ng for months now and enough is
enough. Too bad, I really wanted one.
--------
Real Audio discussion featuring Crush and
special guest: The Super Car Genius.
The VTEC REALITY CHECK Homepage!
http://members.home.net/crush/reality-check
Over 23,000 people educated!
Honda Civic vs. Ford Mustang FAQ v1.4
http://members.home.net/crush
Mike
>
> On Fri, 23 Jul 1999 13:35:41 -0500, "Derek Johnson"
> <der...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> >I'm having a "similar" problem. My 93 PGT just started acting up about a
> >week ago. I was driving on the highway (about sixty) and the engine just cut
> >out and the tach went to zero. I wasn't able to restart the car as it
> >coasted to a stop, but after a brief stop in which I shut the key off it
> >started up fine. It has happened twice after that.
>
> Ok that's enough.
>
> After reading WAY TOO MANY articles similar to the above, I have
> now officially decided not to get a Ford Probe.
>
> I am not going to have a car that is a money pit and has 20 different
> bugs and incurable problems and that makes me worry that the car will
> break down every time I take it out.
>
> Forget it. I've been reading this ng for months now and enough is
> enough. Too bad, I really wanted one.
>
"Incurable?" The problematic 93-94 rear calipers can be rebuilt or
replaced with 95+ units. Problem cured. The igniter module (a problem
not limited solely to Probes I might remind you) was fixed by
Ford/Mazda/Mitsubishi with an updated part in 1995. A one-time
replacement, for about $CDN80, cures that problem. What are the other 18
incurable problems you refer to? Since I've had a 94PGT for several
years now, you'd think I'd be familiar with all 18, but strangely, I'm
not. Maybe you can enlighten me as to the other problems Probes have
that are incurable.
After several years now, I've had trouble only with one rear caliper and
the igniter. Nothing else on the car has failed or disappointed. Indeed,
after 115,000KM, it still puts 147HP to the wheels, fully 12HP more than
stock with just a cold air intake, MAF conversion and a chip. It idles
silently, pulls cleanly and strongly to 7000RPM, gets 30MPG on the
highway, brakes and handles better than most of its competitors, looks
great and still gets admiring glances from pedestrians. Not a spot of
rust on it (it even has the original exhaust), original battery, A/C is
still cold and few if any rattles.
Your knowledge of the Probe, like everything else in life, is garnered
from the Internet and newsgroups. People in general aren't going to post
"My car is awesome" or "My PGT got me to Winnipeg trouble free" to a
newsgroup; more likely, they'll post if they have a problem. So of
course all you'll read in the group is people having trouble. The
traffic in a.c.f-p. is typically pretty slow overall and the messages
from people having trouble are fairly limited in scope to calipers,
igniters, rough idling etc. Even dedicated Ford Probe mailing lists I
monitor have traffic that follows this trend. Most of the posts to those
groups are people asking about turbo kits for their car, suspension
upgrades, nitrous questions etc etc with the oddly interspersed "My
igniter failed" message for example. I think that speaks well of the
car overall.
And if you want to avoid the problems the early 2nd-gen cars had, buy a
1995+ PGT. They don't have caliper or igniter problems or any other
endemic problem I know of. They are very reliable, very good cars.
You drive a clapped-out decade-old Honda Civic that has left you
stranded at least four times in 11 months. Are you going to buy a Honda
again in light of the shitty service that car gave you? Look in your
favorite hang-out, r.a.m.h., and check out the problems people are
reporting with their Hondas, from igniter problems on early 90s Civics
to bad distributors, to suspension and CV noises, lifter noises etc etc.
Again, it hardly sullies the name Honda. Given the volume of readers and
volume of cars out there, a few posts in an internet newsgroup is hardly
enough upon which to base an opinion. Then again, that's what you do
alot, isn't it? Basing opinions on chat rooms and newsgroups...
All cars have problems to some extent. What will you drive that will
give you trouble free service forever? Toyota might be a good choice but
the only one you could afford would be maybe a Corolla, hardly giving
the same adrenalin rush as a 2.5 KL motor at 7500RPM.
FWIW, I'm glad you won't dirty the Ford Probe nameplate through
ownership. Go back to rec.autos.makers.honda and troll some more Crush,
as that seems to be where you excel. I rather suspect you've decided not
to buy a PGT not because the reliability is suspect but because, pun
intended, a "reality check" was given to you and you realize you simply
cannot to purchase one, let alone maintain it.
Go away...
Box134
car, it's just a car....."
Mike <spa...@diediedie.com> wrote in message
news:379B6F86...@diediedie.com...
xrc
this on my 93 PGT this feb. but the problem turned out to
be a blown fuse on the ECU rather than the ignition module.
I would recommend buying a rebuilt distributor. If you get
the module from Expressway Ford it'll cost you around
$160 USD + shipping. When I ordered mine they were $80USD
but prices have gone up. I ended up ordering two modules
because the first one was lost in the mail. I ended up
paying $300 for my car to be fixed when I could of gotten it
fixed for $25(fuse and diagnostic). Anyway, if you have
your air/filter box off, to change the coil and module
should only take you about 20 mins. I don't know about a
whole dist. Maybe an hour at most. If you want I still
have my old module. It has about 80,000 miles on it and
it's still good. I don't know how long it will last.
matt
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