TIA
kb
Good luck.
H
"k boeheim" <kbo...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:GP_o8.43055$v%.11623815@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...
"k boeheim" <kbo...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:GP_o8.43055$v%.11623815@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...
2X4 12 in 9-5 ft/in. 9-0 ft/in 8ft.7in. 4 ft. 1in.
2X4 16 in 8 ft.7in. 8ft.2in. 7ft.9in 3ft. 6 in.
it does not say what each group(A,B,C,D) is but as you can see the
higher the group the more weight it will hold
the chart goes on with 2 by 6, 2X8, and 2 by 10 lumber
it says that the spans for ceiling joist, figured for a normal dead load
and a live load of 20 lbs per sq. fto-- permitting the attic to be used
for storage(national building code) thinking back my mother had a home
that must have been built right after WWII. the entire attic area was
made out of 2 by 4 lumber and it was all marked with nubers adn the wood
was bolted together(they must have cut up and shipped these housed to
location and then set them up and finished the houses(we did not own it
until years later(most of the houses in the area looked alike, match box
construction???).... I got up in the attic many times and never had a
problem(i was a kid, early 20s and skinny back then) never had any
problems jumping around in that attic going from one ceiling joist to
another, but reember that house was bolted together..... if the wood you
want to walk on is the 2 by 4 's that are laying down on the ceiling
then cut some plywood about 2 1/2 ft by 3 ft. and take it up with you to
put across two or more boards(ceiling joist) and sit on these when
working on the wiring... remmeber that you want to spread the weight
around as much as possible..... its PSI, pounds per square inch that
count.. keep the squares as large as possible and you will not have any
trouble... also when moving around up there try to be gentle, too much
force getting up too quickly is just like trying to kick a hole in the
ceiling(alot of force going to one area at one time)...
hope this helps.
k boeheim <kbo...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:GP_o8.43055$v%.11623815@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...
If you're up there in hot weather take a bottle of water up with you. It's
much easier than I thought to get seriously dehydrated (attic in Dallas in
July). Damn near passed out without even realizing what was wrong.
If one end of the wire is going to the speaker, then the other end must be
going to wherever your sound system is located. Assuming that you're going
to the trouble of fishing the wire down through a wall to come out near the
floor, tie a string to the last wire that you fish through and pull it
through from the attic with the wire. Whatever sort of connector, wall
plate, or feed through that you intend to have at the wall, ball up a foot
or so of the string and tie it down. If you ever need to run any additional
wire up the same path, you'll have a pull string in place that'll save you a
lot of work.
Lastly, if it's practical in your installation, leave a drip loop somewhere.
Preferably inside the wall at the bottom, below your exit point. If there's
ever water in your attic, you don't want the wire to give it a path straight
into any electronics. A loop of wire, physically below anything electronic
can give water a place to "drip off" and prevent major damage.
Just my 2¢
Bob
"k boeheim" <kbo...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:GP_o8.43055$v%.11623815@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...
He's talking about the chords of the roof trusses. They are where the
ceiling joists are with a stick built roof.
kb
"k boeheim" <kbo...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:GP_o8.43055$v%.11623815@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...