What to look for in a frame walk inspection

[Sean Perdew]

We are buying a new construction in NJ and have scheduled our frame walk.
Any tips on what to look for during this inspection?

Thanks,
Sean Perdew

[Paul Barry]

Bowed studs come to mind. Before insulation you can eyeball a wall to
see studs bowing one way or the other. Afterwards you might need a
straight edge to find them. Don't worry about 1/16" or 1/8" but a a stud
bowed more than 1/4" should go.

Time's limited but I'll think on it.

Paul

[Wilson McBride]

Framing inspection! There is a lot to look for on a framing inspection,
however, depending on the code knowledge, and math skills of your framer,
here are some of the basic code violations most often found:
* Overspanned floor & ceiling joists.
* Overspanned roof rafters.
* Insufficient nailing schedules, or inadequate nail sizing.
* Absence of anchor bolts, washers or proper tightening of same.
* Warped studs or joists.
* (The really big one!!) Overspanned garage door headers.
* Inadequate number of cripple studs at openings (particularly in
high wind areas).
* (Back to nailing) Inadequate or over "on center dimension" of
nail spacing on roof and wall sheathing. Check the roof
sheathing very good BEFORE THE TAR PAPER GOES DOWN!
Obviously there are a lot more things to look for but these are the most
often missed items in my opinion.
Good luck!
Wilson D. McBride, CBO

Sean Perdew wrote in message ...

[cf...@ibm.net]

Dumb question 1: What does "overspanned" mean? (What does it look like?)
Dumb question 2: What is a typical nailing schedule that's considered
"good", and what is a typical one that is considered "marginal"?

CF

[Be...@doowah.com]

This is absurd. You are telling the h/o to attempt to second-guess a
building inspector. Why not leave the absolutes to the inspector, for
which the city may be held liable, and allow the h/o the time to look
for the aggravating things over which the inspector has no control,
like wasted space which could be otherwise used, and "insider tips"
which are useful and may prevent some forgotten things that the city
inspector is neither trained to look for, nor accustomed to pointing
out.

[Shannon Pate]

If you live in an area that has a building inspection department, they will
inspect the home prior to drywall. You do not need to be concerned with
items such as "overspanned" or typical nailing schedule (what a crock
anyways. Nail guns have made overnailing standard practice).

If you do not have a building inspector, I would say to trust that your
builder has inspected the home to make sure it is up to par. You chose him
(or his product) for a reason. Besides, its probably not the first home he
has ever built.

If you for some reason you dont trust that your builder is ensuring quality
(you should be finding a way out of the deal now), you may hire a
professional to come inspect the home for you.

Shannon Pate
ASP Homebuilding, Inc.

cf...@ibm.net wrote in message <3816D8...@ibm.net>...

[knr]

Well they asked to know what it was so I am going to tell them.

> >Dumb question 1: What does "overspanned" mean? (What does it look like?)

A spanning member refers to window/door headers or any member that spans
from one support to another support. When it is overspanned, it refers to
the distance that the member can span without failing (falling down) In
other words it is undersized for the span. You may notice it in an
overspanned garage door header, it's sagging in the middle.

> >Dumb question 2: What is a typical nailing schedule that's considered
> >"good", and what is a typical one that is considered "marginal"?

Typical nailing schedules require nails @ 6" o.c. around the edges running
parallel with framing members & 12" o.c. in the field of the plywood. A
marginal one might be 8" o.c. edge and 14" o.c. field.
> >
> >CF
>
>
>

[Glenn H]

Sean,
There is an awful lot to look for, and there is probably no other inspection
that can have as many things to be incorrect.
Some of the items I look for are NOT code issues, but more quality concerns.
Bowed studs are a big item, take a 4' straight edge and place it on the wall
perpendicular to the studs, don't trust
your eyes. anything more then a quarter of an inch should be replaced when
the studs are 16" O/C
(If there that bad now, they can get worse after drywall !) go through the
entire house !

There are many many other items,
Drywall nailers at all corners, especially by any tub's and shower bases.
Any areas needing tecos having them and that they are all nailed off.
Same goes for hurricane clips,
Loose subfloor's should be nailed off
fire stops in place (Check with you local building inspector for the code,
here its any wall over 8' must have a fire stop)
All window and door locations in the correct place
all archway headers level
all closet jack studs plumb (especially important if the returns are
drywall )
all studs nailed to the plates top and bottom plates both sides
all bridging in place on floor joist's ( usually needed if joists are over
8')
If you plan on interior oak hand rails on a stairs case that the walls are
solid blocked for the installer to end the oak to.
any seams in the ridge beam being posted or supported.
Check to see if the walls are square in the kitchen or where any
countertop/vanity top goes.

the list can go on and on, I perform the inspections on my jobs sites before
the building inspector,
and it can take me 3-4 hours, I go by a list with well over 100 items too
look for !

Glenn
Sean Perdew <sean....@home.net> wrote in message
news:s66R3.15303$2T2....@news.rdc1.nj.home.com...