How Do You Do Ridge Shingles?
J.Keaty
shingles. How do you shingle the ridge with these? The packaging states NOT
to cut ridge shingles from full Oakridge shingles. Am I stuck buying special
ridge shingles?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Joe Barta
Most manufacturers of architectural shingles have "accessory" shingles
that you can buy for ridges and hips. Often they are rather expensive.
If you're capping hips it would be advisable to use the proper
accessory shingle so the color matches exactly.
With ridges however, you have a little leeway. Talk to your roofing
supplier and see if he has a standard 25 yr 3-tab shingle (OC or
otherwise) that will match your shingles. For ridges a close match is
usually good enough (especially if it's YOUR house).
For general information's sake, the regular field shingles CAN be cut
in thirds (or fourths if metric) for use as ridge shingles. It's a
little unorthodox but it won't really hurt anything. If you choose
this path, be sure to do it in the sun so they round over the peak
nicer, and be sure to use some sort of template so they're all the
same width. This is a last resort though, use one of the methods above
if at all possible.
- Joe Barta
crossrd
Just but standard Owens Corning Supremes in the same color. You can get
three caps out of each three tab shingle. Just use a straight edge and a
knife and cut from the top of the gap between each tab to the top of the
shingle and you have your caps.
BTW - Some of the color names differ between the two styles but there is a
corresponding color for each Oakridge II shingle so you may just need to
compare samples to match your color.
Dan
J.Keaty wrote in message ...
GSmith
these for the ridge. Unless it's a hip roof the color difference if any
shouldn't show up. I used Elk shingles on my house, and they don't make a
3-tab, but the roofer came up with a GAF 3-tab that's almost the identical
color. Elk offers the ridge shingles for 3+ times the price of the 3-tab
shingles, but they were too narrow for my ridge vent system, anyway.
Crotty Builders
Hips and ridges may be finished by using hip and ridge shingles furnished by the
manufacturer or by cutting pieces at least 9" X 12" either from 12" X 36"
square butt shingle strips or from mineral surfaced roll roofing of a color to match the
shingles. They are applied by bending each shingle lengthwise down the center
with an equal amount of each side of the hip or ridge.
Proper alignment can best be maintained by snapping a chalk line down
one side
of the ridge on which the edge of the shingle is aligned as it is nailed
in place.
Apply the hip and ridge shingles by beginning at the bottom of a hip
or one
end of the ridge. Use a 5" exposure.
Each shingle is secured with one nail at each side 5 1/2" back from
the exposed end
and 1" up from the edge. When laying the shingles on the ridge,
always lay
the exposed edge away from the prevailing winds.
I hope this helps some.
Paul
Joe Barta
Crotty Builders <konni...@sunset.net> wrote:
>J.
>Hips and ridges may be finished by using hip and ridge shingles furnished by
> the
>
>manufacturer or by cutting pieces at least 9" X 12" either from 12" X 36"
>square butt shingle strips or from mineral surfaced roll roofing of a color to
>match the
>shingles. They are applied by bending each shingle lengthwise down the center
>with an equal amount of each side of the hip or ridge.
>
>Proper alignment can best be maintained by snapping a chalk line down one side
>of the ridge on which the edge of the shingle is aligned as it is nailed in
>place.
Snapping chalklines with ridges is not really necessary. If you pay
attention to what you're doing, the ridge will turn out fairly
straight. For ridges, fairly straight is plenty good.
Hips on the other hand should ALWAYS be carefully chalklined. Hips you
can see from the ground and even a small amount of "crookedness"
sticks out like a sore thumb.
>Apply the hip and ridge shingles by beginning at the bottom of a hip or one
>end of the ridge. Use a 5" exposure.
>
>Each shingle is secured with one nail at each side 5 1/2" back from the exposed
>end
>and 1" up from the edge. When laying the shingles on the ridge, always lay
>the exposed edge away from the prevailing winds.
This is an old roofer's tale. Maybe years ago this had some merit, but
with today's shingles you needn't worry about the caps facing away
from the wind. In all my years of roofing I've never seen a cap blow
off or a ridge leak.
Actually, while we're on the topic, the most vulnerable area for
shingle blowoffs is just down from the peak. When it's windy the air
can really whip over the ridge and actually cause a little low
pressure like an airplane wing. I see this a lot on re-roofs
(recovers) because the roofer neglected to remove the existing cap
shingles. After he slaps down the second layer, there's a bit of a
hump at the ridge and the shingles often don't want to lay flat. The
result can be that a good wind can come along and lift them up. This
is even more of a problem with the cheapo 20yr 3-tab shingles. The
self seal strip on those shingles has a way of failing.
- Joe Barta
Crotty Builders
You are surely right in all you said. As far as how I do it. I don't really snap a
line
down the ridge either, I was only using this if the one who posted this message
was a novice. This would assure his alignment.
Too, I guess I have been building in Hawaii for too long; there we were are always
concerned about the winds. I never knew it was an old tale. Went through a hurricane
there, even then either one of our applications would not apply. :0)
Just trying to help, Actually the last several roofs I have done were all Tile
Roofing
Spanish mostly. Then again, I think back on that. I have been a superintendent
for so many of those jobs, so you could probably run circles around me.
Thanks for the information. I guess since I am new to these newsgroups I should
take caution on whom I am giving advice to. Novice or Professional?
Any advice on that would be appreciated. Just like helping and thinking of
Construction.
Thanks again.
CB