Anchoring Fence Posts - What Size Gravel to Use And Other Questions

Al

unread,

Jun 25, 2002, 10:35:42 PM6/25/02

to

I am building a wooden fence with 4X4 wooden posts and am considering
using 100 percent gravel (not dirt, and not a mixture of gravel and
dirt) to anchor the posts in the post holes.

Three questions:

1. What size gravel would be optimal to use - pea size gravel or
a larger diameter (please specify the size) and why?

2. Should I use alternating layers of gravel and tamped dirt to
fill the post holes or will using 100% gravel offer any advantages,
such as better drainage, stronger support, and less work (little or no
tamping required)?

3. Is there a 'better' material to use other than gravel?

Thanks.

JD

unread,

Jun 26, 2002, 4:12:04 AM6/26/02

to

Al <albe...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:672ce9e9.02062...@posting.google.com...

> 3. Is there a 'better' material to use other than gravel?

Yeah, concrete. There is a special formulation sold in bags called Post Mix
(I believe it's a Qwik Crete product.)

RGB

unread,

Jun 26, 2002, 8:44:08 AM6/26/02

to

"JD" <capturedspac...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:oHeS8.2606$y87.11...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com...

IMHO, concrete is worse. Crushed gravel works great.

Sue

ctbishop

unread,

Jun 30, 2002, 11:58:40 AM6/30/02

to

In article <afcd0v$5ul$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>, "RGB"
<bis...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

When I replace old fence posts, it's mostly because they've rotted where
the post enters the concrete in the hole. I assume water gets trapped
after the post shrinks enough and then begins the rotting process. This
might be slowed by using pressure treated posts.

The gravel would let the water drain better.

Anyone been installing posts in gravel for a long time? Do they work loose
easier than those in concrete?

Charles

memimi

unread,

Jun 30, 2002, 8:41:30 PM6/30/02

to

"ctbishop" <ctbi...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:ctbishop-300...@pool0231.cvx22-bradley.dialup.earthlink.net..
.

i've done fence work and usually set the post in concrete, only we would
make sure to "mound" the crete on top around the post so the water would'nt
puddle on top. sometimes having to let it set a little first, then shaping
the slopes.

Rico dJour

unread,

Jul 1, 2002, 9:32:12 AM7/1/02

to

>From: "memimi" mcalla...@attbi.com

>
> i've done fence work and usually set the post in concrete, only we would
>make sure to "mound" the crete on top around the post so the water would'nt
>puddle on top. sometimes having to let it set a little first, then shaping
>the slopes.

That certainly helps. If you want to go the extra little bit you can caulk the
top of the concrete where it abuts the post. Polyurethane caulk is about the
best, long term.

R

J.C.

unread,

Jul 1, 2002, 7:27:53 PM7/1/02

to

"ctbishop" <ctbi...@earthlink.net> wrote in
message
news:ctbishop-300...@pool0231.cvx22-brad
ley.dialup.earthlink.net...

I have built miles of fence and installed about
100,000 Century 21 signs. Use SAND.

RGB

unread,

Jul 2, 2002, 12:38:00 AM7/2/02

to

"Rico dJour" <rico...@aol.computer> wrote in message
news:20020701093212...@mb-cu.aol.com...

Unless you are building metal posts, why waste money. You'll be lucky if
you get 15-20 years out of teh post, then you have this big concrete mass
to remove. Gravel is MUCH cheaper and easier.
Sue

> R

jason....@verizon.net

unread,

Jul 9, 2002, 8:42:11 PM7/9/02

to

normally what i have done inthe past is dip the ends of theposts into a
bucket of roof flashing cement, that seals the wood aginst the problems
discussed. then i place the posts in the holes on a base of gravel
around 4" deep, then pour concrete and leave a little shy of original
grade but conical at the top... then finish off withthe existing
dirt,...never had a call back ever...13 years....no prob

Jason Cousins
ProBuilt Concepts
Maspeth, NY
917.709.3045