Re-Glazing Windows: What's the trick?
Ed Sutton
In my last house I had a lot of trouble and frustration with this. I tried
first rolling the compound into long ropes by hand. However, when I tried
to apply the window glazing compound it seemed to always want to stick to my
putty knife rather than the window frame.
What's the trick?
The temperature of the glazing compound?
The glazing compound brand name?
What tool you use to spread it with?
Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions,
-Ed
AJ
I use a heatgun on a low-med setting while smoothing. It stops the
tool from grabbing the compound.
You can get compound in a caulk tube.
I'm undeceided about how good it is.
AJ
RamblinOn
Ed Sutton wrote:
> I need to re-glaze the windows in my current home.
>
> In my last house I had a lot of trouble and frustration with this. I tried
> first rolling the compound into long ropes by hand. However, when I tried
> to apply the window glazing compound it seemed to always want to stick to my
> putty knife rather than the window frame.
You lay a little bit in before you put the glass in, right? Press the glass
into place firmly so it seals all around between the glass and the inside of the
frame. Put in your glazier's points.
>
>
> What's the trick?
>
> The temperature of the glazing compound?
Grab a chunk, mash a bit in place pressing it down with your thumb. Glob here,
press, do it again all around, leaving it higher than you want it to be when
finished. Now, run the putty knife along one side, at a 45 degree angle from
the glass, corner to corner.
>
> The glazing compound brand name?
Dap.
>
> What tool you use to spread it with?
Putty knife.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions,
>
> -Ed
Don';t work in the sun. If you work in the sun or mash it around with your
hands too much, it gets too soft and sticky. Like pie crust dough.
Peter
<edsu...@homemail.com> wrote:
> I tried
>first rolling the compound into long ropes by hand. However, when I tried
>to apply the window glazing compound it seemed to always want to stick to my
>putty knife rather than the window frame.
>
>What's the trick?
This stuff does that. It's a pain.
I just push it into the corner really hard going perpendicular
to the bead (as if you were trying to scrape the knife clean on the
edge of the frame). I then go back and smooth it off, drawing the
knife the other way.
BTW, if you want to avoid doing this job over again in a few
years, prime the wood before you put the glazing compound on. This
keeps the oil in the compound from soaking into the wood and makes it
last decades longer.
Steve Manes
>first rolling the compound into long ropes by hand. However, when I tried
>to apply the window glazing compound it seemed to always want to stick to my
>putty knife rather than the window frame.
Wipe a little linseed oil on the bead before smoothing.
Patrick Riley
Yikes, someone is still using putty or glazing compound! Doesn't
everyone have vinyl windows by now? <g>
Seriously, stop using the putty/compound. Clean the rebate thoroughly,
seal (I prefer West System epoxy (sold in marine supply stores or by
mail order from Gourgeon Bros, the mfgs)) lay a bead of clear silicone
caulk where the glass is going to go, gently drop in the glass
(suction cups are ideal to hold it), lay another bead of clear
silicone caulk, then finish with 3/8 quarter round nailed in place.
Before starting prepare the quarter round by cutting to size and test
fitting it, then seal with epoxy, then paint with your finish coat. If
you don't like the idea of silicone, there's some good professional
level caulking that comes in all colors and clear. Try a supplier who
sells to people maintaining large office buildings (Sommer & Macca is
a distributor and probably have a website).
This looks a hell of a lot better than any putty/compound and as long
as you seal the wood properly, it will last much longer. I have
windows I did like this 20 years ago and they're still in fine shape.
--
Patrick Riley
Larry Caldwell
writes:
> I need to re-glaze the windows in my current home.
> In my last house I had a lot of trouble and frustration with this. I tried
> first rolling the compound into long ropes by hand. However, when I tried
> to apply the window glazing compound it seemed to always want to stick to my
> putty knife rather than the window frame.
> What's the trick?
Primer the sash before you try to glaze it. Keep a little linseed oil
handy to lube the surface of the putty.
> The temperature of the glazing compound?
Room temp to a really hot day will work fine.
> The glazing compound brand name?
Any decent linseed oil based putty.
> What tool you use to spread it with?
A glazing tool is nifty. It always gives you the correct angle, and the
windows look nice and uniform. The best ones are made out of polished
stainless.
> Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions,
>
> -Ed
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
You don't have much to say about the length
of your life, but you have a lot to say
about the breadth and depth.
Colbyt
little practice.
Buy your DAP brand glazing compound from a paint store or other place that
sells a lot of it. Old stuff degrades in the can and becomes difficult to
work with.
Buy a "bent" glazing ( putty) knife at the same time. They are available
in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. The proper tool and practice makes the job easy.
Paint the wood sash with boiled linseed oil and allow it to dry (at least a
couple hours) while the can of dap sets in the sun
Take a ball of putty and work it in your hands to warm it. I am right
handed. Hold the putty in your left hand and press the putty into place into
place using the knife from top to bottom or left to right. All you are doing
now in getting the putty in place on all four sides of the frame. It will be
over filled and uneven. Then you go back and finish it removing the excess
which is added back to the ball for the next window. With practice you will
learn to feed the putty from through the end of your fingers in a very
quick manner.
To finish you start at a top or left corner and press gently on the putty
knife with your left thumb as you pull the knife to the bottom or right in
one long continuous stroke. It may take more than one finish stoke until you
get the hang of it. The side edges of the knife blade should rest against
the wood and the glass as you press and pack the putty into the triangle
shape. The handle should point in the direction you are pulling towards.
"Ed Sutton" <edsu...@homemail.com> wrote in message
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Mike
putty. It's cheaper and seems very durable. I left one window unpainted and
after two years it shows no signs of failure. I think this means it will last a
long time if kept painted.
The advantage of hot mud is it can be mixed to any consistency (I like it
thick). It goes on fast, is ready to paint soon and is inexpensive. It may even
be more durable than putty, who knows.
Ed Sutton <edsu...@homemail.com> wrote in message
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Cadguy2
mark lines on a ball field), most paint stores carry it. Take the glazing
and roll it around in the whiting, the whiting helps keep the glazing from
sticking to your fingers, hands, glazing tool, or other people. DAP also
makes glazing in a tube, but unless you can caulk like a pro, it takes a bit
of time to get used to it, but it is much faster! The downside to the tube
is that it is a "Latex" product, I like 33 Glazing because of it's oil base
compound, which is what I use to prime anything on the exterior of a house.
Hint: A lot of people (painters I know) glaze windows without priming the
wood sash first. I am a "professional house painter (15 yrs)", and I managed
a Benjamin Moore Paint Store. "DAP says the reason to prime any raw wood
with an exterior oil base paint prior to glazing, is to keep the wood from
drawing the oil out of the glazing, therefore preventing the glazing drying
out and cracking loose in a year or two".
Hope you find a solution.
Clayton
"Ed Sutton" <edsu...@homemail.com> wrote in message
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Ed Sutton
place of
> putty. It's cheaper and seems very durable. I left one window unpainted
and
> after two years it shows no signs of failure. I think this means it will
last a
> long time if kept painted.
> The advantage of hot mud is it can be mixed to any consistency (I like it
> thick). It goes on fast, is ready to paint soon and is inexpensive. It may
even
> be more durable than putty, who knows.
Sounds interesting. What is this stuff? I don't think I've ever heard of
it.
Is it a pre-mixed product? What brand names make it?
Ed Sutton
here,
> press, do it again all around, leaving it higher than you want it to be
when
> finished. Now, run the putty knife along one side, at a 45 degree angle
from
> the glass, corner to corner.
Grab a chunk, mash; grab a chunk mash; grab a chunk mash; ....
Got it. Thanks for the technique!
-Ed
Ed Sutton
-Ed
Ed Sutton
That might take some of the frustration out of it.
Thanks for the advice.
-Ed
Steve Manes
>I've re-glazed windows using hot mud (the kind used with sheetrock) in place of
>putty. It's cheaper and seems very durable. I left one window unpainted and
>after two years it shows no signs of failure. I think this means it will last a
>long time if kept painted.
If you mean joint compound, I don't know how this could work as the
stuff is very water soluble. If I can wash two-month old compound of
an old taping knife under a kitchen tap, it's not going to stand up to
window washing very well either.
Slowhand
Ed Sutton wrote in message ...
It drywall joint compound (taping mud) that sets up in about 90 minutes.
But like anything, there are pros and cons with it. It tends to crack more
so than regular joint compound because it sets up so fast.
SH
Mike
> stuff is very water soluble. If I can wash two-month old compound of
> an old taping knife under a kitchen tap, it's not going to stand up to
> window washing very well either.
There's more than one type of joint compound. The cold setting type hardens by
evaporation and is not very durable. "Hot mud" is available as a powder and when
mixed with water hardens via a chemical reaction to a very hard and durable
substance. It's quite water resistant when set. It is also not prone to cracking
unless it's mixed with too much water. To increase it's longevity in the weather
I recommend painting it but I have a test window that is exposed to salt spray,
wind-driven rain, window washing soap and intense sun for over two years without
any sign of failure. My test window is not painted or protected in any way.
Default User
of water before spreading the putty.
I always thought that silicone caulk would be great for glazing
windows. I'm not known for doing things right, though.
I've seen glazing in a caulk tube. Why not try that?
--
Christopher A. Young
We survived Y2K, but will we survive Y2C?
This Y2C is what they are enduring in California: Survivalist
situations caused by the government regulating business and
preventing the free market forces from working.
"Ed Sutton" <edsu...@homemail.com> wrote in message
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