Drilling into micro-lam header?
Jason
The plumber originally went under the header because he said it was not
allowed to drill them.
Joe Barta
A 1" hole in the center of a 9-1/2" member will do it no harm.
- Joe Barta
Matthew S. Whiting
Depends on whether it is loaded to its maximum rating or not. If loaded
to the limit, I'd be hesitant to drill it. If not, then you're probably
OK, but I'd make a call to the manufacturer just to be sure. A 1" hole
centered in the beam won't reduce the strength all that much and it
could be that holes of a certain size were already factored into the
load rating of the beam.
Matt
Jason
long, and has one end of some other 15' long joists bearing on it, so it is
a LOT of load. Might be near the limit. I could also run the pipes around
it, but it already takes 2 minutes to get hot water to the sink, and I don't
want to increase it's journey.
"Matthew S. Whiting" <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message
news:3BFEC542...@epix.net...
KME
the span of the beam where the shear forces are less, provided the hole is
centered in the depth of the beam.
"Jason" <an...@anon.com> wrote in message
news:qKzL7.525751$ME2.68...@typhoon.kc.rr.com...
Shannon Pate
However, around here, we NEVER drill a hole or notch a laminated beam; the
county inspectors will not pass rough framing if one of these beams is
drilled. (unless there is a support post directly under the hole or notch.
ASP
"Jason" <an...@anon.com> wrote in message
news:3bfeb049$0$30971$272e...@news.execpc.com...
Matthew S. Whiting
>
> The beam may remain structurally sound after you drill a hole in it.
> However, around here, we NEVER drill a hole or notch a laminated beam; the
> county inspectors will not pass rough framing if one of these beams is
> drilled. (unless there is a support post directly under the hole or notch.
But they allow holes and notches in conventional 2X lumber? I don't see
the logic of that.
Matt
Shannon Pate
laminated veneer, glulam, etc. But, specifically, we never drill or notch a
lamintated beam; regardless of its use.
We also dont knotch or drill double joists under bearing partitions.
ASP
"Matthew S. Whiting" <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message
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Matthew S. Whiting
>
> We dont drill or notch any girders, whether they are dimensional lumber,
> laminated veneer, glulam, etc. But, specifically, we never drill or notch a
> lamintated beam; regardless of its use.
>
> We also dont knotch or drill double joists under bearing partitions.
Why are you more afraid of drilling a laminated beam than a solid beam?
Matt
Chas Hurst
Matthew S. Whiting <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message news:3C005777...@epix.net...
the middle third of the span and in the middle third of depth. Max hole size is 1.75-2.00" depending on depth. No notches or cuts
are allowed elsewhere.
So they can be (at least this product) drilled, but in a very limited area. And not a very big hole. But these beams can be ganged
and bolted together, and the bolts need holes. So small holes could be drilled darn near anywhere.
Chas Hurst
Jason
dozen holes into it for 1/2" carriage bolts. The holes were drilled near the
edges across the entire length of the beam. The drilling and bolting was
actually recommended. It seems kind of dumb that some inspectors won't allow
holes in the beam. I also checked the drilling chart and found what you did.
But I will double check with my local inspector to make sure they say it's
ok. Some of those inspectors are pricky enough to make me rip the beam out
and replace it. All I need is two 1" holes to pass a couple of copper pipes
thru.
"Chas Hurst" <rose...@early.com> wrote in message
news:vdZL7.3344$WC1.3...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Shannon Pate
manufacturer. I dont drill LVLs on my jobs for 2 reasons . One is because
if I allow a certain sub to drill a whole and give him specific instructions
as to where and what size...I risk coming back and seeing that he erred and
ruined my beam. Also, if the next sub comes through and sees the beam
already has holes in it, he may decide its ok to drill it.
Two is because the inspectors dont like to see it. Dont ask me why. In
fact, one of the posts made a good point. When we use multiple beams, we
bolt them together...
Why dont the inspectors want them drilled. I imagine that they have had a
problem with beams being drilled in the wrong location, wrong size whole,
etc. Many of the inspectors may wonder themselves, as there are many
products with thier own set of rules.
ASP
"Matthew S. Whiting" <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message
news:3C005777...@epix.net...
Matthew S. Whiting
>
> I remember a few years back I needed a double 14" microlam. I drilled a few
> dozen holes into it for 1/2" carriage bolts. The holes were drilled near the
> edges across the entire length of the beam. The drilling and bolting was
> actually recommended. It seems kind of dumb that some inspectors won't allow
> holes in the beam. I also checked the drilling chart and found what you did.
> But I will double check with my local inspector to make sure they say it's
> ok. Some of those inspectors are pricky enough to make me rip the beam out
> and replace it. All I need is two 1" holes to pass a couple of copper pipes
> thru.
Approach the inspector nicely and just mention that you have the
manufacturers specification and it allows holes of a certain size, and
say that "I'd just like to be sure in advance that this is OK with
you." Chances are they'll puff out their chest and say no problem.
Matt
Jason
area, everyone calls them Microlam, even though it may be another brand.
Just like everyone calls a bandage a Band-Aid, no matter what it is.
As far as my header, it is really more of a beam than a header. It is in the
basement supporting floor joists. It was actually originally a 10" steel I
beam, but the moron architect spec'ed it out about 4 feet in front of some
full size windows in the basement. This was supposed to be a finished
basement with drywall ceiling, so I didn't want obstructions in the ceiling.
So I screamed and made the builder switch it to a microlam, with the joists
hung on it rather than on top of it. Of course they still ran some plumbing
and heating pipes under it, go figure. I got tired of screaming at the
builder, so I figured I would deal with it myself later.
My other option is to run the copper pipes behind the new stud walls, but I
am a little worried about them freezing from being so close to the
foundation. The foundation does have 1" of high density foam, but it can get
down to -25F here.
<AK4...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:80910ucgejmaqvjgd...@4ax.com...
> Hello.
> What is microlam?
> I worked with gluelam (everybody knows it), LVL -"laminated veneer"
> (kinda of a thick ply with grain going in the same direction in all
> layers, good for rim joists), LSL -"laminated strand"- basically a
> thick OSB , makes a great studs, parallam -this s..t is wierd,looks
> like a gray spaghetti cooked under pressure, strong, makes good
> headers.
> Is microlam just another name for anything above or a totally
> different animal?
> Also in local vocabulary "header" is something that's going above a
> door's or window's openings or just an opening in the wall. I just
> can't imagine a situation where the plumber has to drill it. I'm sure
> I'm missing something. Is your header at the same level as an upper
> floor joists or something like that?
> TIA
>
Matthew S. Whiting
>
> "Microlam" is the brand name that Trus Joist McMillan uses for LVL. In my
> area, everyone calls them Microlam, even though it may be another brand.
> Just like everyone calls a bandage a Band-Aid, no matter what it is.
>
> As far as my header, it is really more of a beam than a header. It is in the
> basement supporting floor joists. It was actually originally a 10" steel I
> beam, but the moron architect spec'ed it out about 4 feet in front of some
> full size windows in the basement. This was supposed to be a finished
> basement with drywall ceiling, so I didn't want obstructions in the ceiling.
> So I screamed and made the builder switch it to a microlam, with the joists
> hung on it rather than on top of it. Of course they still ran some plumbing
> and heating pipes under it, go figure. I got tired of screaming at the
> builder, so I figured I would deal with it myself later.
>
> My other option is to run the copper pipes behind the new stud walls, but I
> am a little worried about them freezing from being so close to the
> foundation. The foundation does have 1" of high density foam, but it can get
> down to -25F here.
If you plan to finish and heat the basement, I'd be very surprised if
pipes located on the inside of the foundation wall would freeze,
especially if you don't place insulation between the pipes and the
interior drywall.
Matt
Jason
I could drop the ceiling more, but it's already only 7'8"(8' minus 4" slab),
and I don't want to make it to short.
> Thanks for the info.
> I feel your pain. I know it's too late, but you probably could be
> better with the original steel Ibeam using a hangers with top nailing
> flanges nailed to 2X bolted to the top of the beam. This way the beam
> is in the ceiling and the piping goes through a notches (voids) in 2X.
> And now...Would you consider dropping the entire ceiling 1 1/2" by
> nailing 2X2 to the joist's and beam's bottoms, using that space for
> the pipes?
>
>
Jason
the cold side of the pipe, and make sure I don't have any on the warm side.
Thanks for the advice.