Spray vs brush painting Hardi Board siding
butch burton
instructions on the Hardi web site, they say to "back roll" if the
siding is to be spray painted. Wondered why and called Hardi and their
tech support guy says this is because when spraying, some people tend
to not get enough coverage and rolling would even out the coverage.
He said a skilled spray job is just as good and durable as a brushed on
paint job.
I would vastly prefer to spray due to the speed of application.
Any comments
Phil Scott
"butch burton" <spac...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1115229912....@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Where there are cracks or pourous surface I use a brush or
roller for the prime coat at least...if I was spraying a job
with a rough or porous surface. I would thin the primer 5% or
10% depending (read the instructions) to get good
penetration..
spraying over a porous surface can leave microscopic voids.
Phil Scott
>
RicodJour
There are two reasons why you back roll. Back rolling is meant to push
the paint into all the crevices and pores. This is particularly
important on the primer coat. It's mandatory for a quality job.
The other reason is to level out the coat. That's important in stain
and spraying. The slowest part of painting is applying the paint, not
rolling it out. When people spray, and they're not pros, they have a
tendency to lay it on too thick in areas. The back rolling levels out
the coating and picks up any runs and drips. It won't add a huge
amount of time to back roll and it will give you superior results.
R
Matt Whiting
> butch burton wrote:
>
>>Considering using Hardi Board siding on new construction and in their
>>instructions on the Hardi web site, they say to "back roll" if the
>>siding is to be spray painted. Wondered why and called Hardi and
>
> their
>
>>tech support guy says this is because when spraying, some people tend
>>to not get enough coverage and rolling would even out the coverage.
>>
>>He said a skilled spray job is just as good and durable as a brushed
>
> on
>
>>paint job.
>>
>>I would vastly prefer to spray due to the speed of application.
>
>
> There are two reasons why you back roll. Back rolling is meant to push
> the paint into all the crevices and pores. This is particularly
> important on the primer coat. It's mandatory for a quality job.
Yes, spray will not penetrate well into corners such as where trim and
siding meet or where clapboard siding overlaps. The air dams up and
stagnates and the paint doesn't get pushed well into the corner. My log
house was sprayed originally and I started getting thin lines of mold in
all of the corners where the tongue and grooves were machined into the
logs. It will be recoated this year by someone who will do it right and
brush on the stain.
Matt
Lil' Dave
news:1115229912....@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
garage, paint was rolled here. The house was done with similar but not same
manufacturer siding by a contractor at approximately the same time, paint
was sprayed here. The garage has Hardi-Trim for corner, windows and door
exterior trim, and Hardi soffit as well.
Hopefully, you got the pre-primed siding. Otherwise, the siding tends to
absorb alot of primer. In both cases, the siding was pre-primed.
My sons and I rolled out the Sherwin-Williams A-100 Dover white paint. .
Same was used on the house by the contractor's paint sub. Trim was Sherwin
Williams A-100 bracing blue, both on the garage and house. This was applied
with brush in both cases.
The garage and house both received liberal time with a caulking gun.
The garage's siding paint appeared thicker of course. Could not find any
air pockets etc.
The house siding paint was much thinner, almost transluscent. There were
some air pockets in the paiint. Not alot, but they were there. This paint
was even thisner at the lap of the siding. Some of the siding had red clay
intrusion from lying on the mud before it was applied by the carpenters,
which the painter failed to clean before spraying. Was extremely obvious
the following day after drying. They "fixed it" with more paint.
From a distance, both paint jobs appear okay. Upon closer inspection, the
roll method is definitely prefered by myself in ths case. Rolling has a
thicker coverage, properly applied leaving no air pockets, and doesn't thin
out at the lap joints as you're forcing it with the roller when applyiing.
And you're right, it takes heck of a lot longer to do than spray. If you
are going to live there for a long time, roll it.
butch burton
roller for 4" wide strips. I would think it would require a brush to
get into the cornersand the overlapping edge.
Were you able to get into the corners with just a roller or did you
have to use a brush also.
Thanks again.
Lil' Dave
> Thanks - will get pre primed HB siding. I suppose you get a narrow
> roller for 4" wide strips. I would think it would require a brush to
> get into the cornersand the overlapping edge.
>
Apparently, you're talking the standard 4X8 sheet type siding. I used
horizontal lap siding. Use any labor saving roller or brush size you can
get. Don't skimp on this.
> Were you able to get into the corners with just a roller or did you
> have to use a brush also.
>
The roller was unable to make contact with the siding where the trim boards
met the sding. And, just under the lap joint about a 1/2" wide the length
of the lap siding. For these areas, brush application is required. Don't
use the longest knap roller, a medium size seems to work best. I tried the
longer knap, it still would not reach the places I've already indicated.
The technique for rolling paint on this siding is to force it in, so a
sopping wet knap is not desired. All my garage corners have HardiTrim, so
there were no exposed siding corners. I still caulked here where the trim
boards made a corner.
Similarly, I would suspect that the verticals on your 4X8 siding would not
receive full roller contact. And require a brush. If your sidng is making
any corners, you may need to do a bit of caulking first. JH website for
vertical corners on this type siding calls for "Z" flashing. Similarly
along windows and doors calls for covering this joints in a different
manner.
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/installation/hardipanel_installation.php
Caulking cannot be overemphasized for ease of paint coverage. You can use
the paintable silicon hybrid caulking, or urethane caulking. The ASTM for
caulking is noted in the weblink. I toted a bucket of water behind me to
keep my finger wet for smoothing the caulking, and used urethane caulking.
Similarly, the painters did the house caulking the same way with some saliva
to wet their fingers, they used the silicon paintable caulking. Caulking
has to be done whether paint is rolled or sprayed.
If you're good at feathering, you can roll the paint out first. Then, come
back and do the brush work. Otherwise, cut in with a brush first.
All this takes time. Don't hurry it. The results will be better and longer
lasting than spray.
> Thanks again.
>
butch burton
maximu...@ergebnis.de
Sherwin-Williams. It goes on real easy onto the primed HardiPlank...
faster than ordinary wood or cheap hardboard. It looks excellent now, 2
years later.
And there was no f***'in overspray on the roof, etc., like you see in
spray jobs. And there was no f***'in expensive sprayer to clean up, no
need to tape everything off before hand.
Of course, hand painting is more labor... but, I live here. I'm worth it.