Framing required for 7x16 garage door?? Steel beam?
41rob...@gmail.com
my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
Thanks,
Rob
dpb
Well, 2x4's ain't gonna' cut it... :)
If you can possibly arrange it, I'd strongly suggest going the
two-single doors as opposed to the one double. Only if you're in a
location which _never_ has inclement weather would I relent. And, I'd
still plan on an entrance door besides.
Is this the end wall which isn't load bearing, I presume, as starters?
If so, the beam tables will be adequate for sizing but you'll definitely
need at least a 2x10 doubled w/ the half-inch ply sandwich for thickness
but that's not actually looking it up.
--
Big_Jake
I built a 3 car garage some years ago with one 16' door and one 8'
door. The 16' door required a double 11 1/2" microlam per plan.
Might have been slightly overkill, but the inspector didn't say so.
If it is on the gable end of the garage it generally wouldn't require
a header.
JK
Craig M
added side walls, built a box beam and they came out and installed the door,
the barn was built with roof trusses, and end wall not really load bearing,
we did add about 3 2x4's where the door opener track bolted up to the wall,
to give it something to bolt too, had to add blocking for the track mounts,
but the whole door assembly is not that heavy for a single wall door, now if
you go solid wood, that changes.
Ask the door installer as well.
"Big_Jake" <I.do.re...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3c2cde2b-9d2b-456d...@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Dioclese
news:6f59b800-3632-4354...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full sheet of 1/2" CDX
plywood. Cut a 8' length of plywood 11" wide. Along that same edge you cut
the prior piece of plywood, cut another. Cut the 2nd piece of plywood 4',
or in half. Cut both 2X12s to length.
Lay one 2X12 on a flat surface. Find the center lengthwise. Using
carpenters glue (you'll need lots of it), cover an area 4' either way from
the center. Do not spread the glue in any manner. Carefully place the 8'
section of plywood lengthwise over the glue. Stabilize with a handful of
3/4" brass wood screws. Do the same on either end of the 2X12 with the
remaining 2 four foot sections of plywood. Verify the crown on both 2X12s.
Place the 2X12 with the plywood attached on 4 saw horses spread apart in an
equal fashion where the 2X12 ends are about 2' past the end saw horses.
Liberally apply carpenters glue to the plywood surface. Place the other
2X12 over the plywood assuring the crown is up like the bottom 2X12. Attach
with 3.5" stainless steel wood screws. Do not countersink, flush only. Use
4 screws every 2 feet, 3 screws every 1 foot between the sets of 4 screws.
You'll need a person on the loose end of the 2X12 to work it back and forth.
As you progress to the other end, you will need pipe clamps to work it back
and forth. Get the bottom flush, not the top, if they are slightly
different in size. Allow the glue to dry 24 hours before using the header.
2X12 selection considerations are not to select any with visible twisting or
warping. Do not select a perfectly straight example, you want one with some
crown. The crown is the spring that gives as weight is placed on it. Nor
do you want one with excessive crown.
Just a few comments. 7 feet is awfully tight, even for a compact car's
length. Don't see how you're going to get any wall lateral stability on the
side where the garage door is going. The whole wall is the garage door
frame and door.
--
Dave
bertbarndoor
not the entire garage itself. The garage is probably about 25+ feet
wide, 9 feet high above the door (higher at the peak), and probably
about 20+ feet deep. The door is going on the non-gable side. I
presume the non-gable side is the fully rectangular side, not the side
that has has a triangle which supports the roof.
Does that change any of your instructions? thanks!
-Rob
Matt Whiting
> <41rob...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:6f59b800-3632-4354...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
>> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
>> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
>> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Rob
>
> You'll need 2 yellow pine 2X12s #2 or better, and one full sheet of 1/2" CDX
> plywood. Cut a 8' length of plywood 11" wide. Along that same edge you cut
> the prior piece of plywood, cut another. Cut the 2nd piece of plywood 4',
> or in half. Cut both 2X12s to length.
How do you know this given that you know nothing about the load this
beam needs to support? Giving engineering advice over the internet is
very dangerous. The only thing more dangerous is taking advice over the
internet.
Matt
Big_Jake
> <41roblyn...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Brass and stainless screws?? WTF? Why not use 16d nails? I have
never seen an engineering drawing that spec'd wood screws for
something structural.
JK
DanG
garage door. It is a standard opening. I thought Dioclese gave
some pretty good advice. Most double 2x12 headers belly out
within 10 years with no load on them, just not adequate for the
span, drive up and down a subdivision and pay attention to double
car garage door headers. A flitch beam, LVL or other manufactured
beam, some form of box beam, or a reinforced 2x12 beam will be
required. The name of this group is construction after all.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Matt Whiting" <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message
news:QUwEk.241$4f2...@fe107.usenetserver.com...
Matt Whiting
> It isn't rocket science to provide an adequate header over a
> garage door. It is a standard opening. I thought Dioclese gave
> some pretty good advice. Most double 2x12 headers belly out
> within 10 years with no load on them, just not adequate for the
> span, drive up and down a subdivision and pay attention to double
> car garage door headers. A flitch beam, LVL or other manufactured
> beam, some form of box beam, or a reinforced 2x12 beam will be
> required. The name of this group is construction after all.
I don't recall him saying where his garage is to be located. Maybe I
missed it. If it is located in Arizona, that is one thing. If it is
located in Leadville that is something else entirely. Yes, it isn't
rocket science, but doing it correctly requires more than a SWAG on a
newsgroup.
Matt
Steve Barker DLT
door. Other than that, it's simple to figure.
s
"Matt Whiting" <whi...@epix.net> wrote in message
news:BgUEk.23001$1a3....@fe085.usenetserver.com...
Dioclese
it was simply a workshop to begin with. Admittedly, as another respondent
pointed out, I don't know what the roof load is. But, you said workshop.
That's a pretty light load to me.
You can use common ferrous nails externally, and for attaching the plywood.
I prefer screws to nails on critical structural areas as these cause less
local wood compression to the holding structure, less likely to split.
Yellow pine has less tolerance, and tends to split more than most softer
woods. If you're used to working with fir or white pine for instance,
you'll find yellow pine much denser. Non-ferrous? I simply like stuff to
last the lifetime of the structure.
Don't forget that you will have to temporarily support the ceiling and roof
when removing the wall and installing the header. You will not get 7 foot
clearance if you have standard 92 5/8" studs. 2X12 is 11 1/8" wide. Add 1
1/2" for the sole plate. That works out to 83" from the bottom of the
header to the floor. Hopefully, that will be adequate. Don't forget the
header will need to ride on a cripple stud on both ends, needs to be 3"
longer than the opening. Inside the framed opening, you'll need treated
lumber negating 3" more from the lateral opening, and 1.5" from the top.
That's the finished opening size for the garage door. Check the specs
required for finished opening size for the garage door. Do not accept any
oral information from the vendor/salesman, you need to see specs in writing.
Armed with that information, you can determine exactly the framed size,
thus, the header length and maximum width.
--
Dave
"bertbarndoor" <bertba...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Wayne Whitney
> Appears you have common gable roof. Seems good to go based on the fact that
> it was simply a workshop to begin with. Admittedly, as another respondent
> pointed out, I don't know what the roof load is. But, you said workshop.
> That's a pretty light load to me.
Well, we can't really know that. What's the snow load? What's the
wind load? What's the earthquake load?
> You can use common ferrous nails externally, and for attaching the plywood.
> I prefer screws to nails on critical structural areas as these cause less
> local wood compression to the holding structure, less likely to split.
In earthquake country, nails are preferred as they are more ductile than screws.
Cheers, Wayne