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Pool light bolt replacement question.

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D. Berry

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Jun 3, 2002, 9:50:48 PM6/3/02
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My bolts rusted in place and broke off when I replaced the light in my pool.
I now have 2 rusty studs to remove and they are under 18 inches of water. I
could drain the pool partially and drill/tap them conventionally, but I
thought I'd ask and see if there are any methods for solving this problem
that have thus far escaped my thinking. I estimate 5000 gallons to drain the
pool low enough to repair the light and our water bill is high enough as it
is. We get no discounts for refilling pools.

None of my extensive tool arsenal is designed to drill underwater. I can't
weld underwater either. :(

I know this is probably a shot in the dark but does anyone have any
ideas/tips/tricks?

Dan

mark

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Jun 3, 2002, 10:24:51 PM6/3/02
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As rediculous as this may sound I will offer it up anyway. If you are REALLY
willing to try to drill and tap this piece under water you could go to Home
Crapo and get a flex shaft for a drill. I believe they sell them there and
they are 36" long with a shaft to go into the drill on one end and a hand
grip and a keyless chuck on the other end... this way you could have someone
sit outside the pool and pull the trigger on the drill (dont put the trigger
lock on and go under water,.. if you drag the drill into the pool it wouldnt
be fun hehehe) then someone else could be under water with a mask and
snorkel drilling out the bolts. Then tapping them would be easily done by
hand.
Hopefully someone else may come up with a better solution but this one
would probably work.

mark
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Ray

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Jun 3, 2002, 10:50:06 PM6/3/02
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"mark" <n...@no.com> wrote in message
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cheap pneumatic drill running on compressor

Ray


Don Linsenbach

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Jun 4, 2002, 12:57:49 AM6/4/02
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Speaking of pool lights.
Been watching them install the 12 volt underwater light in our new pool, and
there is only one wire.
Seems the pool light is grounded to the steel rods in the shell and the mesh
under the deck.
So, is there 12 volts of juice running through the water (and anyone that
may be in the water), to complete the circuit ?
What would this do to a person with a pacemaker, anything ?

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Richard J Kinch

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Jun 4, 2002, 1:05:10 AM6/4/02
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D. Berry writes:

> My bolts rusted in place and broke off when I replaced the light in my
> pool. I now have 2 rusty studs to remove and they are under 18 inches
> of water.

What size bolts? Why did they rust (not stainless?)? Is the target metal
shell able to take the abuse of this removal and still accept a new thread?

Consider that even if you had an underwater source of torque, like a flex
shaft or pneumatic device, you have nothing to push against when you're
buoyant. You're basically a spacewalking astronaut. Even driving a screw
is difficult on a vertical wall underwater.

I submit your best bet is to drain down a few feet, submerge an aluminum
ladder to stand on, and use a cordless drill. The water change will
probably improve your pool chemistry, so its not a complete waste.

Richard J Kinch

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Jun 4, 2002, 1:14:54 AM6/4/02
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Don Linsenbach writes:

> So, is there 12 volts of juice running through the water (and anyone that
> may be in the water), to complete the circuit ?

No. The 12V electrical potential is isolated from the water inside the
lamp. Even if the water leaked in, the water also has a much higher
electrical resistance than the steel.

Shannon

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Jun 4, 2002, 6:45:10 AM6/4/02
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You are most likely looking at the bond wire for the light niche. The pool
light will have a separate cord running through a conduit .
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Shannon

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Jun 4, 2002, 6:50:20 AM6/4/02
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There is a product called a light wedge. They work in many applications.

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wayne

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Jun 4, 2002, 8:56:16 AM6/4/02
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I guess I need a better picture do these studs hold the light in place? if
you take them off will you expose the bare bulb to water? why do you need
to remove the studs now?
You said the light has been replaced?

Wayne


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D. Berry

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Jun 4, 2002, 12:41:17 PM6/4/02
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"wayne" <dontb...@nospam.com> wrote in message
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> I guess I need a better picture do these studs hold the light in place?
if
> you take them off will you expose the bare bulb to water? why do you need
> to remove the studs now?
> You said the light has been replaced?
>
> Wayne
>
bulb is in a watertight container... Container bolts to side of pool
underwater with 2 bolts. Heads broke off the 2 bolts leaving studs in side
of wall that need to be drilled out and retapped.

Dan

Garry Wiegand

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Jun 4, 2002, 1:36:15 PM6/4/02
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"D. Berry" <nos...@nowhere.com> wrote:
>bulb is in a watertight container... Container bolts to side of pool
>underwater with 2 bolts. Heads broke off the 2 bolts leaving studs in side
>of wall that need to be drilled out and retapped.

I just fixed a similar problem by simply drilling a couple new holes in the
metal edge of the light fixture and then drilling several matching short
concrete screws into the adjacent concrete. Emphasis on the "short", there.
But, of course, you'd still have to lower the water.

Only thing I can think of that could be accomplished without lowering the
water is hydraulic cement, or maybe an epoxy. But you'd probably never get
the light fixture back out again.

Garry

John Gilmer

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Jun 4, 2002, 3:02:15 PM6/4/02
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"Richard J Kinch" <nob...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
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> D. Berry writes:
>
> > My bolts rusted in place and broke off when I replaced the light in my
> > pool. I now have 2 rusty studs to remove and they are under 18 inches
> > of water.
>
> What size bolts? Why did they rust (not stainless?)? Is the target metal
> shell able to take the abuse of this removal and still accept a new
thread?
>
> Consider that even if you had an underwater source of torque, like a flex
> shaft or pneumatic device, you have nothing to push against when you're
> buoyant. You're basically a spacewalking astronaut. Even driving a screw
> is difficult on a vertical wall underwater.

Oh, a "CHEAP" (as a previous poster emphasized) impact wrench will not have
much reaction against your body. It is 100% safe. The only problem is
that a little bit of the lube oil will get into your pool.

IF he is very handy he could build a cofferdam to go around his light. It
would need some weighing down because friction may not hold it in place.

>
> I submit your best bet is to drain down a few feet, submerge an aluminum
> ladder to stand on, and use a cordless drill.

Cordless drill on a ladder in a pool! Better make that a CHEAP cordless

harriswest

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Jun 4, 2002, 5:48:37 PM6/4/02
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How about going 19th century and using a hand brace?
--
Mike Harris
Austin, TX

Richard J Kinch

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Jun 4, 2002, 11:35:32 PM6/4/02
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John Gilmer writes:

> Oh, a "CHEAP" (as a previous poster emphasized) impact wrench will not
> have much reaction against your body. It is 100% safe. The only
> problem is that a little bit of the lube oil will get into your pool.

Torque reaction is not the problem. It's the pressure you need to apply
axially along the drill bit. What do you push against? Have you actually
tried this? You'd be surprised how difficult it is.

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