[OT] driveline stuck on tractor pto shaft
Boat_dreams
Anybody run into this before?
The drive line to my mower is stuck on the tractor's pto output shaft
and won't come off. It's been tough to wiggle free before, but never
this bad. I've hammered on it and pried until I fear for the u-joints.
It's soaked with wd-40. The spring pin works easy, but the splines
seem welded with grit. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Boat_dreams
Duane Bozarth
Rear or mid-mount? What size shaft, number of splines? Tactics
available in specifics are somewhat size-dependent.
For rear, I have a specially designed pry made from 3/8" flat stock that
was cut specfically to allow for direct force to be applied w/ the back
of the PTO housing as the fulcrum point.
I've never had one that wouldn't eventually yield to curs---err,
persuading language and effort.
Oh, are you sure there's no torque on the shaft? The flail mower if not
balanced correctly can exert a considerable torque that can make removal
impossible--get it in the right position and it's a piece of cake.
Also, occasionally the position of resistance to retraction is in the
telescoping mechanism, not the u-joint itself.
Are the splines worn/pitted/twisted, perchance? Particularly in the
latter case you may have to resort to extreme measures.
Napalm Heart
"Boat_dreams" <scla...@yahoospam.com> wrote in message
news:DO2dnbYy64m...@sti.net...
You might also try alt.fan.tractors
Dan Deckert
balanced correctly can exert a considerable torque that can make removal
impossible--get it in the right position and it's a piece of cake.
Also, occasionally the position of resistance to retraction is in the
telescoping mechanism, not the u-joint itself.
Are the splines worn/pitted/twisted, perchance? Particularly in the
latter case you may have to resort to extreme measures.
Boat_dreams
> Boat_dreams wrote:
>
>>The equipment groups all seem to have died or I wouldn't post this here.
>> Anybody run into this before?
>>The drive line to my mower is stuck on the tractor's pto output shaft
>>and won't come off. It's been tough to wiggle free before, but never
>>this bad. I've hammered on it and pried until I fear for the u-joints.
>> It's soaked with wd-40. The spring pin works easy, but the splines
>>seem welded with grit. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>>Boat_dreams
>
>
> Rear or mid-mount? What size shaft, number of splines? Tactics
> available in specifics are somewhat size-dependent.
and front distributor). I changed the rear pto shaft about 10 yrs ago
from the original 1-1/8" to a size larger for Category 1 drive lines. I
don't remember the size or number of splines--probably 1-1/4" and 5 or 6
splines.
> For rear, I have a specially designed pry made from 3/8" flat stock that
> was cut specfically to allow for direct force to be applied w/ the back
> of the PTO housing as the fulcrum point.
> I've never had one that wouldn't eventually yield to curs---err,
> persuading language and effort.
every simple chore degenerates into a knuckle buster...bad feng shui?
Hell, I pointed the tractor north. What else can you do.
> Oh, are you sure there's no torque on the shaft? The flail mower if not
> balanced correctly can exert a considerable torque that can make removal
> impossible--get it in the right position and it's a piece of cake.
> Also, occasionally the position of resistance to retraction is in the
> telescoping mechanism, not the u-joint itself.
no force on the shaft--just the single u-joint with about 2' of square
shaft.
> Are the splines worn/pitted/twisted, perchance? Particularly in the
> latter case you may have to resort to extreme measures.
Thanks for the reply. I'll let my blood pressure ease off and try it
again tomorrow.
Boat_dreams
Boat_dreams
> You might also try alt.fan.tractors
>
Boat_dreams.
Boat_dreams
> You might try heating the coupler with a torch (Oxy/Acet) and #3 cutting
> tip. (Not a propane tank type) Work the heat all around quickly. You
> just want to heat the coupler & not transfer the heat to the pto shaft.
> The whole heating time should be less then a couple of minutes. Smack
> the coupler on all four sides with a 4lb beater with just enough force
> to help loosen it and then see if it'll pry off by prying on two sides
> equally. If it moves and doesn't come off, spray some wd-40 (or like
> oil) and reheat again using a tad more heat. If you can get any movement
> at all, work the coupler on & off, not just off, and keep applying
> wd-40. Short of this &/or Duanes ideas below, use the torch for what
> it's made for.
> Dan
Thanks for the reply. I'm a little leery of putting heat on it. I may
try that last--right before I torch it off. And I know what you mean
about applying pressure on both sides equally. I just don't want to
apply too much pressure until I get a little movement. It still has
that metal-to-metal feel that transfers every tug and whallop right to
the bearings.
Boat_dreams.
Napalm Heart
> Duane Bozarth wrote:
> > Boat_dreams wrote:
> I should have mentioned in my post. The tractor is a Ford 8/9N?
(3spd
> and front distributor).
9N. 8N tractors have a 4-speed. Unless it is a compilation of parts.
How big of a bolt pattern does it have on the front and rear wheels?
Alternatively, a Google image search for 8N and 9N should give you a
better idea.
I changed the rear pto shaft about 10 yrs ago
> from the original 1-1/8" to a size larger for Category 1 drive
lines. I
> don't remember the size or number of splines--probably 1-1/4" and 5
or 6
> splines.
1-3/8" is the standard size.
You might try putting a big wrench (pipe wrench?) on the coupler and
then hitting it in the direction opposite of the driven direction. My
thinking is that it might have sheared the splines by the force of the
rotation.
Hope this made sense.
Ken
Andy Asberry
I ran into this once with a grinder-mixer. Find a stout post or tree.
Attach a come-a-long in line with the PTO so you will have a straight
pull. You can put a clove hitch knot in a chain around the square
shaft or put a bolt through the u-joint to tie to. The reason for
hooking on aft of the coupler is so there isn't any tension cocking it
sideways. Lock your tractor brakes, get some tension on the chain and
start tapping around the coupler. Remember to depress the spring pin.
AND stay out of the line of fire. When it comes loose, it may let go
violently.
As for knuckle busting: An old fellow told me any time you're working
on machinery, you should just go up and punch it real hard and get the
knuckle busting over with.
Boat_dreams
>
> I ran into this once with a grinder-mixer. Find a stout post or tree.
> Attach a come-a-long in line with the PTO so you will have a straight
> pull. You can put a clove hitch knot in a chain around the square
> shaft or put a bolt through the u-joint to tie to. The reason for
> hooking on aft of the coupler is so there isn't any tension cocking it
> sideways. Lock your tractor brakes, get some tension on the chain and
> start tapping around the coupler. Remember to depress the spring pin.
>
> AND stay out of the line of fire. When it comes loose, it may let go
> violently.
>
> As for knuckle busting: An old fellow told me any time you're working
> on machinery, you should just go up and punch it real hard and get the
> knuckle busting over with.
Thanks for the idea. I haven't had the stomach to get back to it yet,
but I'll definitely give this a try. And thanks for the heads up on the
rope/cable catapult effect--not a warm and fuzzy thought.
Regards,
Boat_dreams.
Duane Bozarth
Does this coupler have a split along one side by any chance? If it does
(as some do), drive a wedge into it to spread it just a little. Either
way, go for the heat and some tension if the simpler technique of
persuasion doesn't work.
Be interesting to hear the outcome...
M&S
Are you sure the locking pawl is releasing? If it is, and you were
running a bushog or similar I would assume the spline on either your
tractor or the drive shaft is worn and started to shear/gawl and is now
bound. My only suggestion would be to be sure the pawl/pushbutton/collar
is actually releasing (I have shafts with two types of pawls, a push
button, and a slide collar like a hydraulic coupler). If it is releasing
then I would opt to use an angle grinder and a 1/16th cutoff wheel and
cut a slot in the coupler, drive in a cold chisel and slip it off. Then
you will have to find out if you need a PTO tail shaft, or if it was the
drive line.
If you were bush hogging it sounds like you may need a clutch on your
drive line as you may be hitting a lot of stumps, rocks, and so on,
slamming the drive line and so on. Lord knows what damage its doing
internally if this is the case.
Good luck,
Mark
Boat_dreams
You're right. I hit lots of rocks. I've been counting on my shear pin
to protect against driveline damage, but that must not be enough.
I've now tried just about every suggestion folks have offered and have
given up. I put the mower back on to finish out the growing/mowing
season. This fall I'll torch the driveline off the pto shaft.
I thank everyone who took time to reply. I appreciate the many
thoughtful suggestions.
Regards, Boat_dreams.
Boat_dreams
after the first couple of weeks. Now, everytime I finish mowing I
squirt some more WD40 into the coupling--just on the off chance
something organic in the grit might dissolve or something inorganic
might shift with the bit more lubrication. Since the driveway's getting
real bumpy, I tried the coupling one more time--just on the off chance.
Voila! It practically fell off. Serendipity or ?
Thanks again for all the great suggestions.
Boat_dreams.
Duane Bozarth
Great! How long had it been on there? I suppose given where you are it
had to have rained on it...sounds like just combination of dirt, rust,
etc., ...
But there's no way a rawhide mallet was going to have any effect.... :)
DanG
NeverSeez product for next time:
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/neverseez.htm?gclid=CJ-xld7M8Z8CFQ-lagodkGhHYA
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Boat_dreams" <sclaa...@spamyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0dKdnZvT0NP...@sti.net...
PeterD
>
>"Boat_dreams" <sclaa...@spamyahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:0dKdnZvT0NP...@sti.net...
>> Boat_dreams wrote:
>>> The equipment groups all seem to have died or I wouldn't post
>>> this here. Anybody run into this before?
>>> The drive line to my mower is stuck on the tractor's pto output
>>> shaft and won't come off. It's been tough to wiggle free
>>> before, but never this bad. I've hammered on it and pried
>>> until I fear for the u-joints. It's soaked with wd-40. The
>>> spring pin works easy, but the splines seem welded with grit.
>>> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>>> Boat_dreams
>> I've worn out my rawhide mallet so I quit hammering on the pto
>> coupling after the first couple of weeks. Now, everytime I
>> finish mowing I squirt some more WD40 into the coupling--just on
>> the off chance something organic in the grit might dissolve or
>> something inorganic might shift with the bit more lubrication.
>> Since the driveway's getting real bumpy, I tried the coupling
>> one more time--just on the off chance. Voila! It practically
>> fell off. Serendipity or ?
>> Thanks again for all the great suggestions.
>> Boat_dreams.
>
>Now that you have it off, I would be VERY generous with a
>NeverSeez product for next time:
>http://www.neverseezproducts.com/neverseez.htm?gclid=CJ-xld7M8Z8CFQ-lagodkGhHYA
>
***Please do not top post, especially if you use a signature! It
screws up the reply capabilities and quoting. ***
Now, to the OP's problem.
1. WD-40 is worthless except to remove adhesive from stuff (where the
adhesive peels off the tape for example) and for water displacement.
WD stands for "Water Displacer". WD-40 is NOT A LUBRICANT, nor is it a
penitrating oil. Never was, never will be.
2. The stuff I use is called Kroil. In a spray can usuallyi called
AeroKroil. Very good stuff, designed and made for this task.
3. You can make your own penitrating oil, too... I use frequently a
50/50 mix of diesel and ATF. Mix well. The diesel and ATF both have
lubricating qualities, both penitrate well.
4. Get a 'dead blow' hammer.