building a floating dock
wes wallace
anchoring of a "floating" dock to be place on a lake.
It's kind of a fun one.
anchor at land from start point float from there approx. 30 to 40 feet to a
small island, up and over island then out into the lake floating about 25 to
35 feet out into the lake.
Very limited as to removal and excavation of surrounding area. Need to keep
area as rustic and undisturbed as possible.
Is foam the way to float this wooded structure or plastic pontoons under
this wood structure.
What to do about keeping it stable while the water level rises and falls,
though of 55 gallon containers filled with concrete attached with chain.
Any different thoughts or suggestions???? PLEASE!!
Wally Wilson
I had a raft floated on foam. The muskrats loved it. They chewed out a nest
in it. I don't know if I just ran across some gooned out muskrats or not but
it happened.
If the change in water level isn't more than a foot or so maybe you can put
the dock (bridge) on 4 X4s. You might have to use a trash pump to make sure
they got down to something solid but they might work.
Wally
wes wallace <whwa...@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:V3fS4.166$x32....@news.uswest.net...
Bughunter
are available to help move it each season? Remember that help around a lake
dissappears fast when the beer runs out or the weather gets cool at the end
of the season.
Is there access for a vehicle to the shoreline? Perhaps to tow the structure
ashore? Some people make long single piece docks with wheels (waterlogged
car tires) on one end. They can then pull it to shore with a tractor or
truck. The bottom should be relatively smooth to do this and you need shore
access by vehicle. 30' to 40 ' might be a bit long for this solution, and
it does not address your island issue.
Is there any problem with ice in the winter?
How much does the water level change each season?
What will the dock be used for? People walking across it to access the
island? People sitting on it to sun?. The docking of boats? How large are
the boats? How many boats?
How deep is the water?
Have you checked on the existance of "wetland" or lakeshore protection
ordinances? What limitations to they impose? Length? Width? Materials?
Seasonal removal? You are talking about a very large structure. Ask before
you start.
Why go "up and over" and island? Why not just have people walk across the
island? How long is the island crossing?
What is your budget? You are probably talking a minimum of $3k here if you
do all the work youself and use materials similar to that which I describe
below. More if you have sombody else do it. Even more if you make it a
permenant structure.
Some things to consider...
If you remove the dock seasonally, you want to make it as light as possible.
More so if you have a limited amount of help in removing the dock each
season. That's almost a given unless you have 3 sons. Build the dock in
sections no more than 10' long if it has to be removed seasonally. Keep it
to 8' long if it's wider than 3 or 4'.
Purely floating docks can be very unstable. I avoid them for that reason.
It's better to use floats to float it into position, and then use
adjustable pipes with feet to stabilize it on the bottom. This way,
the dock can be as narrow as a couple feet and still be very stable. You
may need to adjust the level of the dock with the pipe feet from time to
time as water levels change, but the floats make that easy. There are also
other "tools" to help with the level adjustment job, such as winches that
mount on top of pipes. You can bring the level of the dock way above water
level and avoid any adjustments over an entire season.
Permenant docks can be much heavier, and probably should also be built
sturdier. They are less likely to be approved my local authorities. I would
avoid them. Permenant docks have a tendency to become eyesores after a few
years.
Heavy icing conditions over the winter can destroy a dock.
You have to build like a battleship to withstand icing conditions. Removable
is probably easier, and is certainly easier to get approval for. Maintenance
of removable docks can be done on shore. Permenant docks may require less
maintenance, but when they do require it it is usually costly.
Most communities have ordinances restricting what you can build.
Usually, the state "owns" the body of water, unless it's a private lake.
Check first, or you may pay heavy fines, or have to dismantle your dock.
Foam flotation, if not encapsulated, can break up and pollute the water.
Fully encased foam is expensive. Plastic 40 gallon drums work well, last
forever and a are an order of magnitude less expensive. Look for drums with
flat (not curved) sides. They are easier to mount and are more stable.
Use galvanized screws to hold down decking. Nails will simply work loose as
there is always movement in any dock. Spend the time and money on screws and
avoid the endless job of hammering down popped up nails every year. You will
also tear less clothing and tear up less feet with screws.
My own solution for was a 30' x3' dock made of 3 10' sections. I used a
frame or 2"x8" pressure treated wood for a frame, and topped it with 5/4" x
6" 40 year pressure treated decking. Each section has two 40 gallon flat
sided plastic barrels for floation to move in and out of position. Barrels
are held in position with rubber bungies.
For stability, each section is supported by 2.5" galvanized pipe mounted to
deck mounted l brackets with adjustable nuts. I sink the pipe about 1-2'
into the mud before tightening the 1' square galvanized pipe feet. That
locks the dock in position. Corners of the frame are reinforced with
galvanized steel L-plate, with connecters to bolt the sections togather.
Depth of the water is from 2' to 4', so the pipes are less than 6' long.
The water level changes about 2' each season. Ice action would make
toothpicks out of this dock in northern NH. I use a 1500lb battery powered
boat winch mounted on a tree on shore to pull the sections in across the mud
each fall. I float the sections out each spring. I do this single handed,
but the sections are very heavy. They could be made a little bit lighter by
using cedar instead of pressure treated, and using 2"x6" for the frame. I
went for sturdy and long lasting instead of light. I use a 16' gangplank
made of 2x6 lumber to go from the first section to shore.
The galvanized dock hardware cost over $500 for this dock. It is damn
stable, sturdy and a pleasure to use. I'd never have a purely floating dock
again because I believe that their instability is a safety issue and a
potebtial liability.
I may have trouble moving this when I'm 70, but for now I can handle it.
The only drawback of this dock is that it is rather heavy for one man to
handle.
This dock meets the local lakeshore ordinance for "mimimum impact" seasonal
dock at a maximum of 30', and 1/2 the maximum 6' width.
I can post (or email) a photo if that would be helpful.
regards,
bughunter
Mike
ideas. They offer the hardware and floatation for small
floating docks.
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BilderPaul
day.Dock must be removed every year so the ice flows dont remove it for me.
It is used to tie up my boat.
I used 55 gal PVC floats. Used for soda suryup and cost 13$ each. Built it in
sections 5' wide, 8' long. Need a float in each corner. I have a total of 5
sections configured in an L .
Hints:
5' wide is real stable even with 2 people standing on one side.
2- 8' sections ride over waves much better than 1 - 16'. I made "hinges" out of
1 1/2 pipe and 2" pipe to fasten the sections together.
4' bungee cords work great for holding the floats.
Dock is in 8' water. I anchor it with 1 1/2" gal pipe slid though 2 " pipe
(used as sleeves) which is bolted to the deck, than sledge hammered into the
river bed. (they don't need to go in far, maybe a ft.) Used 2 anchors per
section.
Though bolt all corners and reinforce with angle iron.
Great fun building and useing
enjoy
Paul