Repost: rec.arts.bonsai FAQ Part 1 of 5
Hud Nordin
> Newsgroups: rec.arts.bonsai
> Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.95...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 09:52:11 -0500
> Sender: Internet Bonsai Club <BON...@WAYNEST1.BITNET>
> From: Dan Cwiertniewicz <d...@FOGHORN.PASS.WAYNE.EDU>
> Subject: The_rec.arts.bonsai_alt.bonsai_FAQ:_Part1
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Section 1 -- Table of contents
Part1
Section 1 -- Table of contents
Section 2 -- What is Bonsai?
Section 3 -- Administrivia
Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!
Part2
Section 5 -- Soil
Section 6 -- Watering
Section 7 -- Junipers
Section 8 -- Indoor bonsai
Section 9 -- Clubs, Associations
Part3
Section 10 -- Reading material (Books and Magazines)
Part4
Section 11 -- Suppliers and Nurseries
Section 12 -- Turface Suppliers
Section 13 -- Pricing
Section 14 -- Permanent Bonsai Exhibits
Section 15 -- Japanese Gardens
Part5
Section 16 -- Dictionary of Japanese bonsai terms
Section 17 -- Dictionary of selected Latin botanical terms
Section C -- Contributors...
Section 2 -- What is Bonsai?
This was, at one time, the most commonly asked of all FAQ's; but
since The Karate Kid was first shown, it gets asked a little less
frequently.
The word bonsai (according to my Japanese friends) is pronounced
as follows: "BON" (as the French would say "bon" or the Germans
would say "Bonn") is pronounced with the lips nearly closed with a
.3 second hum. The second syllable is pronounced quickly as "sah-
ee". You will hear some people pronounce the BON in bonsai with a
short "O" and others with a long "O", but the correct
pronunciation is really neither.
The word literally means a plant (usually a tree or shrub) grown
in a tray or dish. Growing trees in pots began in Egypt about 4000
years ago, mostly for practical reasons, mobility, and
convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians, Persians, and Hindus copied
the technique. The Chinese were the first to plant trees in pots
for aesthetic purposes, about 200 AD. The art of bonsai then moved
to Japan with the monks, who also brought Buddhism, in the 6th and
7th centuries. This data is supported by a scroll from Japan's
Kamakura period (1192-1333) describing life in the Heian period
(794-1191).*
Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.
The original bonsai trees were usually collected, already dwarfed
by nature. Today, however, it is probably better to allow such
specimens to stay where they are. In many locations, collecting
them in the wild is against the law. In others, the chance of
finding a suitable specimen is almost zero.
One common misconception is that a bonsai is a specific type of
tree. Yes, some trees are more frequently bonsaied than others,
but bonsai can be made from almost any woody stemmed tree or bush
species. Some of the more classic bonsai are Japanese Black Pine,
5 needle pine, Sargents Juniper, and Japanese maples. In the past
20 or so years, a great many species not previously accepted as
bonsai have also joined the list. Some tropical trees, and plants,
such as weeping willow and Jade, are just two.
Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the grower to
change the height and direction of the tree's growth, and in some
cases to dwarf the foliage as well as the plant. Today, bonsai is
an art form, a living sculpture. There are certain classic or
traditional forms that can be found and followed, but the basic
rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like the way it
looks, it's a good bonsai'.
*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)
Section 3 -- Administrivia
*- FTP sites -* The Bonsai FAQ, and many other FAQ's, are
available via anonymous ftp from rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
pub/usenet/news.answers. The archive name for this FAQ appears in
the Archive-name: line in the auxiliary header found in each of
the 5 sections of the FAQ. The Bonsai FAQ is known as bonsai-
faq/part1. (Each part has a separate name..ie part2, part3 etc..)
A mail server also exists for accessing the FAQ archives. Send a
message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with the command 'help' in the
body of your message.
An anonymous FTP server for Bonsai GIFS (and other types of
pictures) and other bonsai related files is available at
bonsai.pass.wayne.edu (IP address 141.217.25.22). Login as
anonymous and use guest as a password. You can put images in the
/uploads directory, and get images from the /pub/GIFS directory.
This allows the person responsible for the site a chance to check
the files before anyone can get them, thus avoiding having the
site terminated due to inappropriate material.
*- The Bonsai Mailing List -* For those of you who for one reason
or another can not currently get a feed for rec.arts.bonsai, there
may be another way to get in on the discussion there. Subscribe to
the bonsai mailing list! Subscription is easy. Send e-mail to:
LIST...@cms.cc.wayne.edu. In the body of the letter, have the
line:
SUB BONSAI <Enter your name>
The mailing list software will extract your mailing address from
the message header, so you don't need to put that in your command.
The messages in the mailing list are automatically posted
torec.arts.bonsai, and allof rec.arts.bonsai is automatically
mailed to the subscribers of the mailing list! For a list of
commands, send the command: help to the LISTSERV address.If you
have trouble, you can contact Dan Cwiertniewicz
(d...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu) for help.
*- Gopher Server -*
A gopher server is maintained at bonsai.pass.wayne.edu
(141.217.25.22). Contained there are links to the FTP site, as
well all discussions from the Bonsai discussion list from 1992
onward.
*- WWW Server -*
A World Wide Web server is available at ren.pass.wayne.edu
(141.217.25.10) This site is setup to show the work of various
individuals. If you would like an area of your own, please contact
Dan Cwiertniewicz.
*-European FTP site now available!-*
The FAQ and some other bonsai related files are now available East
of the Atlantic! If you prefer to get your copy of the FAQ without
the use of one of the transatlantic channels, the address is:
ftp.lysator.liu.se (130.236.254.1) The bonsai files are in
/usr/local/ftp/pub/gardening/bonsai.
Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!
Q: How do I start?
A: Opinion 1) Get as many books as you can. Read them, and look at
the pictures. Check your local phone book for a bonsai club in
your area. Talk to local nursery operators and see if they know of
any clubs in your area.
Personally, I got started with two books: the Brooklyn Botanical
Garden's book _Indoor Bonsai_, and the Sunset book called
_Bonsai_, which is sold at most garden centers. I have talked to
many well-known people in the American bonsai community whose
first book purchase was the latter!
Select a tree that has some of the basic design that you'd like
to have in your final tree, and buy it. Use what you've learned
from reading, and from the local club/nursery owner (if he knows
what bonsai is!).
Opinion 2) Indoors: Remember that immature plants should not be
treated as bonsai, they must be treated as the houseplants they
are. Give them plenty of soil to grow in and don't use too little
fertilizer, or they won't develop branches and leaves when you cut
them and the trunk won't grow in thickness.
Q: As a beginner, should I purchase a mature or partially trained
bonsai, or start from scratch?
A: Opinion 1) I think you should start from scratch. Your first
attempts may never be 'show quality', but you can make a few
mistakes without damaging a tree you paid for. It may take a bit
longer to arrive at something that looks the way you want it to,
but bonsai is (usually) not one of those instant gratification
hobbies. If you get the proper book and some guidance, starting
with some inexpensive nursery stock may yield some 'instant
bonsai.' This approach allows you, as a beginner, to learn while
owning something that looks like a 'real bonsai'. Stay away from
trees labeled 'Bonsai' in MOST discount stores. Numerous people
have seen some discount chains with dead or dying seedlings
planted in shallow trays with a solid mat of pebbles glued down
over the soil. The trees had not been watered; and even if they
had been, the water couldn't penetrate the ground-cover. They were
marked $10.00
Opinion 2) The question should really be: Should I start from
scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is larger?
Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger will have a
thicker trunk from the beginning, and thus will look "almost like
a tree" sooner. A younger plant gives you greater freedom to
choose a shape for training. You get to practice different methods
on different size plants: the larger lends itself to cutting down,
the smaller to cutting away to encourage other growth.
(And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want, with
the right price, that looks healthy and undamaged and is of a
species you know is hardy or is of a sort you already have (and
know you can take care of) -- it _is_ OK to buy it.)
Opinion 3) Brian Corll writes: I would recommend that if you can
afford to do so, you purchase a tree that has had some training
_and_ purchase several species of trees appropriate for your
geographical location that can be trained exclusively by you. The
purchase of the former will give you something that has the
appearance of a more finished tree and can become the centerpiece
of your growing collection. Purchasing the latter will give you
material to learn from. Keep in mind that there is no such thing
as "instant bonsai". Development of bonsai material takes years.
Don't be discouraged by that fact. Years are going to pass anyway.
You might as well be growing a potential masterpiece in the
meantime!
Q: Is there a list of plants that are accepted as 'good' to start
a bonsai? (Latin names, and if to be in- or out-doors please)
(Note: A more complete listing of indoor trees is available in
section 7)
A: Ficus benjamina Indoors Fast grower, hardy. Easy to get the
leaves small. Suitable for many different shapes.
Ficus retusa Indoors Similar to benjamina, leaves grow in a
different pattern.
Ficus pumila Indoors If you want a cascade, this is the way to go.
Cut often to prevent it from going long and thin. May die if the
roots dry out totally.
Ficus Nerifolia Indoors This is the narrow leaf (also called
willow leaf) form of the Ficus species. The leaves are naturally
much smaller than the other forms of this species.
Schefflera arboricola Indoors
Schefflera actinophylla Indoors Can be cut down enormously. Buy a
50cm plant and cut it down to 10cm! Must be shaped completely
without wiring. Takes correct treatment to get the leaves small.
Crassula argentea Indoors
Portulacaria afra Indoors Succulents with small leaves, branch
easily.
Malpighia coccigera Indoors Slow grower. Holly-shaped leaves. Easy
to grow.
Murraya paniculata Indoors Slow grower. Gets beautiful structured
bark when still young.
Myrtus communis cool winters - Outdoors Must be kept at around
+10C (50F) in the winter.
Q: I assume that the time and number of times to prune the
trees/roots vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on that?
A: The answer to this is a bit more complex than it would seem. It
isn't just a case of latitude. Localized climatic conditions can
and do play a much larger role in when to perform the common
bonsai activities such as pruning, and repotting, than the
latitude. For instance, in the US, the Great Lakes have a climatic
effect in a strip around them that extends from about 10 miles to
well over 50 miles in width depending on if you measure on the
eastern or western edge of the lakes. What you need is the USDA
zone map and a chart comparing the climate of some of the cities
in Japan for min. winter temp, earliest frost, last frost, avg.
precipitation. etc. Unfortunately I've seen a lot of people try to
do this and come to the conclusion that the climate (at least in
the US) has no parallel to that of Japan.
Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase? They're
rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools. It would be a shame
to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that it's only used during
odd procedures or only for specific types of trees/styles.
A: The general consensus is that the only indispensable bonsai
tool is a concave cutter. Other tools can be the common
garden/hardware store variety and work quite well. Things you will
need are:
Small concave cutter
Diagonal wire cutters
Scissors (Good moustache scissors or small sewing scissors)
Chop stick (They are cheap and useful)
Buy the best quality item you can afford, and take good care of
it. It will be much more cost effective in the long run than
having to buy a particular tool 3 or 4 times.
You may also want to give some thought to watering "tools". If you
have only one or two trees, a simple spray bottle, and cautious
use of a common garden hose should be suitable for a while. If you
get more involved you will probably want to get a .5 gallon per
minute fogger head for your hose. Indoors, you can use a "normal"
watering can. if you want a finer stream, one person uses a common
button hot glued to the end of the spout. There is also a small
fine spray "rosette" head which is designed to attach to most
common plastic consumer bottles. If it is difficult to find, you
may have to look at a bonsai store, or in a bonsai catalog.
Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai, at any
price, for my finished grove / cascade / etc., are there
alternatives?
A: One of the best ways to view an assortment of pots, as well as
to speak to bonsai potters, is to attend a large regional Bonsai
exposition. Your local club will be able to let you know of
upcoming events. There are usually craftspeople selling an
assortment of pots, and if one doesn't fit your needs, they may be
able to special-order or specially craft a pot for you.
An excellent American bonsai potter is Keystone in Pennsylvania.
If they don't have a pot that fits your needs, they'll probably
take a commission.
Keep in mind that a bonsai should not be moved into a bonsai pot
until it is nearing the end of its initial training period.
Putting immature material into a bonsai pot too soon will delay
development of the tree.Many people keep developing material
either in the black plastic nursery pots they came in or in
ordinary clay flower pots (my personal favorite). Azalea pots or
bulb pans are especially useful, and for developing pines and
other hardy material that will be kept outdoors all year around in
cold climates, you may want to consider using the heavy lipped
cylinder pots found in most garden centers, as they are more
resistant to cracking from the cold.
Q: I'm beginning bonsai, and I can't afford a Japanese pot large
enough for the tree I just collected / for all of the seedlings
I've started / etc.
A: Mica pots are an excellent alternative to clay pots. Not only
are they much lighter than clay (useful for those large trees),
but they usually costless. And from all but the closest viewpoint,
they look like an unglazed brown or black clay pot.
There are also plastic pots that look good until you are very
close, available from several of the suppliers.
Another alternative is "DIY" (Do It Yourself) pots. There are
several ways to make your own pots at home. Pots can be made from
wood if you have the appropriate woodworking tools available.
Recently I have seen demonstrations of casting pots from a
combination of cement, peat, vermiculite, and concrete re-
inforcing fibers. This yields a pot which looks like a rock, and
is surprisingly light weight. See section on hypertufa for
details.
One other solution which has been used by more than one person is
to use a plain red clay "drip pan" from a larger pot. You will
need to make a hole or some holes in the bottom for drainage.
These can also be painted to cover the fact that it is a simple
clay pot.
There are numerous other options. Scout out yard/garage/estate
sales. (These can also be a source of trained trees, but, in the
case of estate sales, be careful. If the grower is the one whose
estate is being sold, there is a good chance the trees are not
well because they were not properly cared for after the owner
passed away.) Check for "continuing education classes in your area
for pottery classes and make your own! There is also growing
interest in a form of "casting" called "Hypertufa". There should
be an article on hypertufa in one or more of the archive sites.
Q: What kinds of insecticides are safe to use on bonsai ?
A: Most professional bonsai growers as well as curators of major
bonsai collections in the US are currently advocating the use of
SunSpray UltraFine horticultural oil for insect control. This is
not meant to be an endorsement of this particular product. It's
just a fact that this is what most such people are using. SunSpray
will control most common insect infestations, as detailed in the
instructions that come with the bottle. Be aware that certain
trees, such as cryptomeria and some spruces, are sensitive to
SunSpray's ingredient (paraffinic oil) and may be damaged by it.
SunSpray should not be used more than four times in a growing
season.
A good reference is the Ortho book, available where most Ortho
products are sold. This book is a big help in diagnosing your
tree's ills and in selecting an appropriate treatment.
Q: What about fungus problems ?
There are many good fungicides on the market, among them Captan,
Phaltan, Benomyl, and Funginex. The latter is a broader spectrum
fungicide that is particularly good for treating black spot and
powdery mildew.
Q. How do I make fertilizer cakes?
A. Bruce Baker answers:
I've made hundreds of pounds of fertilizer cakes---known more
commonly in the bonsai world as "poo poo balls". In fact, I now
go through a couple hundred pounds of it per year. There are
recipes for these in several books, including John Naka's, but I
can give you a couple of pointers that will make it easier for
you.
To start with you will need the following ingredients: 4 parts
cottonseed meal, 2 part blood meal, 1 part bone meal, some form of
liquid fertilizer, and trace elements if your liquid doesn't have
them. I start with fifty pound bags of cottonseed, but unless you
also have a huge collection you can start with a five pound bag.
You will also need a mellon baller, unless you like to get your
hands sickeningly dirty.
Step 1--Mix all of the dry ingredients and set aside what you
don't need at the moment. About 2/3 of a standard sized bucket of
dry ingredients produces enough poo poo balls to fertilize about
100 medium to large bonsai. Store leftover dry fertilizer in an
airtight container for later use.
Step 2--Put the equivalent of a single application into a bucket.
Separately mix liquid fertilizer to add to the mixture. I've used
liquified kelp and inorganics like Rapid Gro, etc. Add trace
elements (you can get concentrated trace elements at good
nurseries) if you don't use a liquid fertilizer that already
contains them. Add the liquid to the solids and stir until you
have something with about the consistency of oatmeal cookies ready
to cook.
Step 3--Use the mellon baller to scoop the balls directly onto the
bonsai soil surface. You need to apply a bit of pressure against
the side of the bucket to get them to stick together.
That's all there is to it. I put on a new application about once
a month.
Here are all the things that have been recommended by others that
I DON'T do along with the reasons why:
1. Don't mix more than you need!!!! If you do this I guarranty
you will have a nasty problem drying it. It will stink, mold, and
attract maggots and other repulsive insects no matter how much
Sevin, or other insecticide, you use. In fact, maggots seem to
thrive on Sevin-treated poo poo balls if they dry slowly enough.
If you apply untreated balls directly to the soil
surface, they will dry very quickly without stink or mold and best
of all, without insects. Ask anyone who recommends Sevin if it
really works. ;)
2. Don't use binders like flour and corn starch. This just
doesn't serve any useful purpose.
A final point is that although I am a big believer in organic
fertilizer for bonsai, I supplement this with inorganics on a
regular schedule. The combination results in stronger, better
colored trees.
--Bruce Baker <b...@one.com>
And Hud Nordin answers with:
Recipes vary, but here's one from John Naka's "Bonsai Techniques":
Mix 2 parts of cottonseed-meal and 1 part of blood-meal with water
to a texture about as soft as an ear lobe. Not too dry or too
soggy. Form into a small ball about the size of a ping-pong ball
(1 heaping tablespoon). Flatten each one to 1/2 inch thick and
place on the surface of each bonsai.
===
Some folks add some fish emulsion. You can use other seed-meals,
like rape seed. Some recipes call for letting the whole mixture,
maybe with a little more water at first, ferment until enough
water has evaporated for it all to become a paste again. You need
a big yard for this; it's pretty stinky and you'll want it far
from the living quarters.
Heck, here's another recipe, from Deborah Koreshoff's "Bonsai":
3 parts soya bean meal, 1 part blood and bone, 1 part chicken
manure, 1 part wood ash, 1 part fish emulsion. Put all the
ingredients into a container at least 4 times the volume and add
water to reach a little over half-way up the container (don't fill
the container completely while fermentation takes place, as the
liquid may bubble over--also, it is a good idea to keep the lid on
during this time). When fermentation has stopped (in about 3
months time) then top-up the bin with water and when the mixture
settles, use one part of the liquid to five parts of water. [...]
An alternative to liquid fertilizing is to make fertilzer
cakes. To do so, make the same mixture as above, but use less
water, or allow the water to evaporate. When it reaches a thick
consistency, add enough plain flour to make it sticky. Form this
mixture into small biscuits or cakes and dry in the sun. The cakes
are simply placed on the surface of the soil and a little
fertilizer leaches out into the pot each time the bonsai is
watered. Put four, one in each corner, in a large bonsai pot, two
in a medium sized one and one in a small bonsai pot.
===
Uhh, make sure you have some rubber gloves for when it comes time
to form the cakes! Yuck.
Oh, and don't panic if you see some insect larva enjoying the
fertilizer cakes, or some mold; that's just nature's way of
letting you know your recipe is nutritious and delicious. I saw
one recipe that added a little insecticide to make it less
palatable to creepy crawlers. I don't do that because then the
possum-biscuits (well, the possums think they are) might harm our
marsupial friends.
--
Hud Nordin
Q: Help! My bonsai looks sick. What should I do?
A: Fix what's wrong. Unfortunately, you have not provided enough
detail for us to diagnose your tree's problem. In the meanwhile,
this can be useful action to take: John Naka's (Bonsai Techniques
I) emergency treatment for a sick tree: "If the tree shows
indications of weakness or is sick looking, do not fertilize, nor
put in complete shade. This is the worst treatment. Carefully take
it out of the pot and slightly comb out just the outside of the
firm ball. Plant it in a larger container and keep it in a semi-
shade area, or plant it directly in the ground in a semi-shade
area. If the tree condition looks very serious, wash off the soil
completely and plant it in pure sand. Keep it in semi-shade until
it begins to thrive."
Q: OK, I'm convinced my bonsai is a species that belongs outdoors,
but, in my climate, winter temperatures are very cold. Won't my
tree freeze?
Yes, it will. So? That's not necessarily a bad thing, if the
species is hardy to your climate. Trees native to cold climates
survive winter by going dormant. In fact, they require an annual
dormancy. Don't let them fool you; they might survive a year or
two without dormancy, for nature sometimes provides a mild winter,
but their health will suffer over time.
Trees are signaled by shortened daylight in autumn that cold is
approaching. Aboveground, the tree protects itself by covering its
buds and needles that will remain during the winter with a waxy
secretion to retard water loss. When temperatures drop, the
permeability of cell walls increases, allowing some water to leave
the cells, thus preventing freezing water from damaging the cells
when it expands. Roots are protected in nature by being embedded
in the thermal mass of earth, often extending well below the frost
line. The roots of a bonsai, confined within a shallow pot, are
vulnerable to cold in a way that a natural plant's are not.
When temperatures average below 35 F (2 C), trees become totally
dormant: there is no growth aboveground and light is not needed.
Above that, light is beneficial. In either case, they will
continue to need water, but at a reduced rate; continue to water
when the soil tells you it is needed, but don't bother watering
when the soil is completely frozen.
With a bonsai exposed to a cold winter climate, you should be
concerned about the same things the tree is: the minimum
termperature the species can tolerate, too rapid freezing, the
roots, and dryness.
You should be aware of the kind of minimum temperature your tree
can tolerate. Retailers or books can provide this information. In
the US, hardiness is often given in terms of the USDA Zone system
for landscape plants, based on average annual minimum
temperatures:
Zone 1Below -50 F ( Below -46 C)
Zone 2 -50 to -40 F (-46 to -40 C)
Zone 3 -40 to -30 F (-40 to -34 C)
Zone 4 -30 to -20 F (-34 to -29 C)
Zone 5 -20 to -10 F (-29 to -23 C)
Zone 6 -10 to0 F (-23 to -18 C)
Zone 7 0 to 10 F (-18 to -12 C)
Zone 810 to 20 F (-12 to -7 C)
Zone 920 to 30 F ( -7 to -1 C)
Zone 1030 to 40 F ( -1 to4 C)
For instance, Juniperus chinensis are hardy to USDA Zone 4. In the
ground, they should survive where average annual minimum
temperatures are as low as -30 F (-34 C). With excellent winter
protection, they can survive even colder climates. As bonsai, they
need some protection to survive extreme climates.
Too rapid freezing can be combatted by insulating the tree with
mulch or snow, or by putting it in an enclosure that traps air.
Happily, these measures also defeat the drying winds of winter.
Roots are helped by these, too, but they are protected better by
putting the plants into the ground. You can bury the tree in its
pot, but beware that freezing water can crack a pot. If it would
be a problem, you can separate the bonsai soil from the earth with
some shredded bark or similar material. Keep the bonsai out of the
sun, for rapid variations of temperature cause most of the
problems. An area out of the wind, such as near a building or a
hedge, provides added protection. With a little more effort, you
can create a cold frame for even more protection. This is small
greenhouse-like structure that will let in light and some heat and
keep cold winds away. Further protection can be achieved by
placing it over an excavated pit, perhaps extending below the
frost line (then called a sun pit). On warm days, open up the
cold frame to keep the plants cool and ventilated. If your
solution also provides an ideal winter home for wee beasties, you
should consider enclosing the plants in screening or laying out
poisonous rodent bait nearby; combat mold by providing a little
more ventilation and reducing water. Heavy snow or ice can shape a
bonsai in ways you may not desire; covering with branches or
firmer structures can protect them.
You have an outdoor bonsai, but limited access to the outdoors?
That's a problem. If you can't use a friend's land, you might be
able to use a garage, porch, or balcony to get cold temperatures
for your bonsai. You may be able to fashion an enclosed space near
a cracked open window to induce partial dormancy, but watch out
for condensation and large heat bills. Some people have put their
bonsai in a spare refrigerator for the winter.
Don't let these suggestions stifle your creativity; you know the
problems to be solved.
Q: Being new here would someone tell me the difference between
rec.arts.bonsai group alt.bonsai and the bonsai mailing list?
A: Usenet's alt.bonsai newsgroup came first; it's easy to
establish alt groups. Rec.arts.bonsai came later, following more
formal creation procedures; rec groups are available at more
sites, allowing more to participate. Still, some sites only get
alt.bonsai, so it remains; besides, alt groups are nigh impossible
to kill off.
Topics that deserve a wider readership can be cross-posted, so
they can be read in either, like I did for this posting. (Not that
this really deserves wide reading, but it makes a handy example.)
Rec.arts.bonsai receives more traffic (amazingly, this morning I
saw only 5 new messages in rec.arts.bonsai and 6 in alt.bonsai) so
if you have the choice it's the one to get. If your site only gets
alt.bonsai, lobby your site admin for rec.arts.bonsai.
Finally, what really came first, I think, is the bonsai mailing
list. Shortly after the creation of rec.arts.bonsai, the mailing
list was gatewayed to it, so what appears on the list
automatically appears on rec.arts.bonsai, and vice-versa; they
contain the same messages, delivered in two different ways. If you
can't get rec.arts.bonsai, subscribe to the list (as described in
the FAQ).
Q: I'd like to create a large bonsai. What sort of limits should
I consider.
A: From John Naka: Bonsai Techniques I:
Large bonsai (OMONO BONSAI) - "The maximum size is about four feet
tall, not including the pot, and is termed as two man, three man,
and four man lifting size. If larger and taller than four feet,
it is called a HACHI-UYE, and is mainly displayed in a yard or for
temporary display in a large building."
Other sizes he mentions:
2. Medium size bonsai (CHUMONO BONSAI) - 1-1/2 to 3 ft.
3. One hand lifting size bonsai (KATADE-MOCHI BONSAI) - 8 to 15
inches
4. Small size bonsai (KOMONO BONSAI) - 4 or 5 to 7 inches
5. Palm size bonsai (MAME BONSAI) - 3 or 4 fit on an average hand
For beginners, I would suggest sizes 2 or 3. Keep in mind that
large pots can get quite heavy, and that they must occasionally be
lifted and moved. An episode of low back strain can considerably
hamper your bonsai and other activities, so be cautious.
--
Hud Nordin
Cybernetic Arts h...@netcom.com
Post Office Box 2066 Telephone 408.248.0377
Sunnyvale, California 94087 Facsimile 408.248.0416
Hud Nordin
> Newsgroups: rec.arts.bonsai
> Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.950106...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:11:55 -0500
> Sender: Internet Bonsai Club <BON...@WAYNEST1.BITNET>
> From: Dan Cwiertniewicz <d...@FOGHORN.PASS.WAYNE.EDU>
resend
Section 10 -- Reading material (Books and Magazines)
Books
-------------------------
BONSAI
The Complete Guide to Art & Technique
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press
Indoor Bonsai
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press
The Creative Art of Bonsai
by Isabelle & Remy Samson
Ward Lock Ltd ISBN 0 7063 7024 4
BONSAI with American Trees
by Masakuni Kawasumi
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-246-5
Bonsai Techniques
by John Yoshio Naka
Published for the Bonsai Institute of California.
The Complete Book of Bonsai
by Harry Tomlinson
Abbeville Press, 1991 224p
$30.00
(Hardbound. ISBN:1-55859-118-4)
The Complete Bonsai Handbook
By Darlene Dunton
Stein and Day Publishers
ISBN 0-8128-6008-X
Four Seasons of Bonsai
by Kyuzo Murata
The Beginner's Guide to American Bonsai
By Jerald P. Stowell
ISBN 0-87011-326-7
The Masters' Book of Bonsai
Compiled by Directors of The Japan Bonsai Association
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-453-0
Bonsai: Illustrated Guide to an Ancient Art
Ed: Patricia Hart Clifford
published by: Sunset Publishing Corporation
ISBN 0-376-03044-5
American Bonsai Society-Bonsai Clubs International Book Service
C/O Vernon Weeks Dept "B"
3740 Louisiana Ave. N.
New Hope MN 55427 USA
Tel: (612) 537-6984
ABS-BCI list...
Title (Author)
Prices ($US)
List Member Postage Title
========= ====== ===== ====================================
1. 24.95 20.00 2.00 The Art of Indoor Bonsai (Ainsworth)
David & Charles, 1989. (Hardback. ISBN:0-943955-11-4)
Trafalgar Square ( David & Charles ), 1992.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-943955-58-0) 128 p. $19.95
Good pages on basic techniques and basic ideas for
growing indoors. 66 pages devoted to care and
feeding of 33 species which work well indoors.
2. 44.95 36.00 2.75 Bonsai (Koreshoff)
3. 45.00 36.00 2.50 Bonsai, The Art & Technique (Young)
4. 29.95 25.00 2.00 The Bonsai Book (Barton)
Trafalgar Square (David & Charles), 1990.
(Hardback. ISBN:0-85223-742-1)
5. 17.95 17.95 Paid Bonsai Book of Practical Facts (Meyer)
6. 24.95 20.00 2.00 Bonsai Design:
Deciduous & Conifer Trees (Adams)
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1990
(Hardback. ISBN:0-7063-6836-3) 143 p.
7. 19.95 16.00 2.00 Bonsai Masterclass (Chan)
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1993
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-8069-6763-3) $14.95
8. 25.00 25.00 Paid Bonsai Techniques I (Naka)
9. 35.00 35.00 Paid Bonsai Techniques II (Naka)
10. 27.95 22.50 2.25 Bonsai: The Complete Guide (Lesniewicz)
11. 14.00 12.00 2.00 Bonsai: Trees & Shrubs (Perry)
12. Brooklyn Botanical Gardens Handbooks:
a) 6.95 5.75 1.50 first, Bonsai for Indoors
Sewall Company, 1991.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-945352-59-X)
b) 6.95 5.75 0.50 each Bonsai: Special Techniques
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1992.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-945352-02-6)
c) 5.95 4.75 additional Bonsai: Dwarf Potted Trees
d) 5.95 4.75 Japanese Gardens
13. 29.95 25.00 2.00 Chinese Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
14. 39.95 32.00 2.50 Chinese Penjing (Hu)
15. 100.00 75.00 Paid Classic Bonsai of Japan (Nippon
Bonsai Assoc.)
16. 29.95 25.00 2.00 The Complete Book of Bonsai (Tomlinson)
17. 17.95 14.50 2.00 The Creative Art of Bonsai (Samson)
18. 24.95 20.00 2.00 Four Seasons of Bonsai (Murata)
Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1990.
(Hardback. ISBN:4-7700-1498-8)
19. 29.95 22.00 2.00 Hagamos Bonsai (Botero) [Spanish Text]
20. 8.95 7.25 1.50 Indoor Bonsai (Ainsworth)
21. 14.95 12.00 1.50 Indoor Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
22. 14.95 12.00 1.75 Indoor Bonsai: A Beginner's Guide (Pike)
23. 19.95 16.00 2.50 The Japanese Art of Miniature Trees
& Landscapes (Yoshimura & Halford)
24. 23.95 16.00 2.00 The Japanese Art of Stone Appreciation
(Covello & Yoshimura)
25. 40.00 32.00 2.50 Japanese Maples (Vertrees)
26. 39.95 32.00 2.50 Penjing: The Chinese Art of
Miniature Gardens (Hu)
27. 29.95 25.00 2.00 Popular Bonsai (Pike)
28. 8.95 7.25 1.50 Successful Bonsai Growing (Adams)
29. 29.95 29.95 Paid Outstanding American Bonsai (Clark)
30. 75.00 60.00 Paid The World of Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
31. 14.95 12.00 1.50 Bonsai: The Art of Training Dwarf
Potted Trees (Brook. Bot. Gard.) [Video]
Tiny Trees Book Sales
PO Box 5834
Hauppauge, NY. 11788-0170
International Bonsai
POB 23894
Rochester, New York 14623
Phone (716) 334-2595
(Editor's note : This is the most informative of the bonsai
magazines for beginners, and is recommended for the advanced
grower also.)
Plants and gardens, Brooklyn Bot. Gard. Record. -- Handbook
Vol. 9 No. 22 Dwarfed Potted Trees, The Bonsai of Japan
Vol. 22 No. 2 Bonsai: Special Techniques
Vol. 32 No. 2 Bonsai for Indoors
Brooklyn Botanical Gardens
1000 Washington Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11225
Art of Bonsai(Adams)
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1992.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-7063-7116-X)
$17.95
Very good book for explaining strategy of training certain trees.
Unfortunately ignores maples. Part 1: Profiles on 1) Beech and Hornbeam
2) Elm and Zelkova 3) mixed Juniper species & Cryptomeria (~20 pages each)
explaining conditions for growing and production cycle over the first
6 years of growing and training.
Part 2: 16 case histories of authors own plants illustrating techniques
and strategies.
Simon and Schuster's Guide to Bonsai (Giorgi)
Simon & Schuster Trade, 1991.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-671-73488-1)
$14.00
Practical Bonsai (Lewis)
Trafalgar Square ( David & Charles ), 1993.
(Paperbound. ISBN:1-85223-661-2)
$8.95
Living Art of Bonsai (Liang)
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1992.
(Hardback. ISBN:0-8069-8780-4)
$35.00
Bonsai Basics (Pessey)
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1992.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-8069-0327-9)
$9.95
Probably one of the better inexpensive basic books. A nice
section on how trees grow.
Indoor Bonsai (Pike)
Trafalgar Square ( David & Charles ), 1991.
(Paperbound. ISBN:1-85223-254-4)
$15.95
Beginning Bonsai (Student)
Tuttle, Charles and Company Inc, 1992.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-8048-1729-4)
$9.95
Bonsai (Sunset)
Sunset Books.
(Paperbound. ISBN:0-376-03044-5)
$7.95
Masterpieces of Bonsai (Takayanagi)
Farrar, Straus & Giroux.
(Hardback. ISBN:0-87040-711-2)
$22.95
Bonsai : its art, science, history and philosophy.
Written and illustrated by Deborah R. Koreshoff
Oregon : Timber Press, 1984.
ISBN 0-917304-68-3
This has an excellent section on the history and philosophy of
bonsai, as well as descriptions of some techniques not found in
many of the other books.
Iris Cohen contributes the following:
Adams, Peter. The Art of Bonsai. London: Ward Lock, 2nd edition 1990.
Highly technical, very detailed opinions, not for beginners. A lot of
information on Scotch pine.
Ainsworth, John. The Art of Indoor Bonsai. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar
Square Publishing, 1989. (written in England) Overall, I consider this
book fair. Some of the instructions are good, and the illustrated species
guide is helpful, but the nomenclature is sloppy and the specimens
illustrated are immature.
Barton, Barbara. Gardening by Mail; Fourth Edition. Boston: Houghton
Mifflin Co., 1994. Directory of mail-order suppliers of seeds, plants,
tools, etc.; also plant societies, magazines, and books. Updates available
every few months for $2. Don't leave home without it.
Clark, Randy. Outstanding American Bonsai. Portland: Timber Press, 1989.
Photographs and notes on the 1987 International Bonsai Congress exhibit in
Minneapolis, which was the forerunner of the John Naka North American
collection at the U.S. National Arboretum. I find it very inspiring. Three
of the artists are members of the Bonsai Society of Upstate New York, in
Rochester. Currently available from Discount Garden Books, POB 8354,
Portland, OR 97207.
Dreilinger, Sigmund, ed. "Indoor Bonsai." Plants & Gardens, Brooklyn
Botanical Garden Record, Autumn, 1990. Not much detail, except on a few
selected species. Lots of interesting tips. A superficial list of indoor
species; nomenclature fair.
Giorgi, Gianfranco. Simon & Schuster's Guide to Bonsai. New York: Simon &
Schuster, 1990. (written in Italy) A lot of information packed into a
little paperback. Contains both a genus guide and an illustrated species
guide, as well as background and history.
Hillier Nurseries. The Hillier Manual of Trees & Shrubs. Newton Abbot:
David & Charles, 6th ed., 1991. A definitive encyclopedia of deciduous
trees, conifers, vines, and bamboos hardy in the British Isles (meaning
down to about Zone 9). Indispensable for correct identification and
nomenclature.
Koreshoff, Deborah. Bonsai; Its Art, Science, History, & Philosophy.
Brisbane: Boolarong Publications, 1984. Available from Timber Press. The
Big Book; will give beginners indigestion. Wonderful reference. Contains
everything. I really would not have bought it, since I can get it out of
the library, but I had a chance to get it autographed, and my Favorite
Co-dependent gave it to me for Mother's Day.
Lesniewicz, Paul. Indoor Bonsai. London: Blandford Press, 1985. (written
in Germany). One of the best books on indoor bonsai.
Lewis, Colin and Sutherland, Neil. A Step-by-Step Guide to Growing &
Displaying Bonsai. New York: Smithmark Publishers, 1993. (written in
England) A very handy-dandy cookbook type book for beginners and
advanced;
good illustrations.
Owen, Gordon. The Bonsai Identifier. Secaucus: Chartwell Books, 1990.
(written in England) Mainly an illustrated guide to growing & styling
specific genera. Handy arrangement. Also contains tips and opinions on
display.
Stein, Rolf (trans. from French). The World in Miniature: Container
Gardens & Dwellings in Far Eastern Religious Thought. Stanford: Stanford
University Press, 1990. Part of the material was first published in 1943.
Absolutely fascinating book; Part I is about the spiritual origins of
bonsai in China and southeast Asia. I got such a kick out of the
suggestions from an interior decorator of the Ming Dynasty on how to
display a viewing stone on your coffee table!
Stowell, Jerald. The Beginner's Guide to American Bonsai. Tokyo: Kodansha
International, 1978. Available in paperback. Some information outdated,
but good reference on collected northeastern trees, especially apple,
which is his specialty.
Tomlinson, Harry. The Complete Book of Bonsai. New York: Abbeville Press,
1990. (written in England) A good all-round beginner's book. The
illustrated species guide and summary in the back are helpful.
Welch, Humphrey. The Conifer Manual, Volume I. Dordrecht: Kluwer
Academic
Publishers, 1991. Volume I contains a general introduction about conifers,
a key, and latest complete nomenclature for all species and known
varieties from Abies to Phyllocladus. Very helpful, but so far no sign of
Volume II. You don't buy this one; it's for reference libraries.
Wu Yee-sun. Man Lung Artistic Pot Plants. Hong Kong: Wing Lung Bank,
1969.
2nd ed. 1976. No longer available, but try interlibrary loan. The 2nd
edition is much better, with additional photographs in color. A
photographic encyclopedia of Mr. Wu's collection, with a few trees by his
friends. Mr. Wu is the leading exponent of the Clip-And-Grow school, and
has been raising bonsai for 90 years. He donated a collection to the
Montreal Botanical Gardens and one to the U.S. National Arboretum. Styling
is very different from the Japanese.
Iris Cohen
Australian Bonsai Books from ROBERT STEPHENS
<rs...@UN.SEQEB.GOV.AU>
I've spotted a couple of requests for info about Australian trees on the net but
never seem to get the info back so I thought I'd post some out. I have a
number of books produced here in Australia which give some helpful
information, some exclusively Australian tree's, others mixtures. Two books
by a guy called Leonard Webber are quite helpful, "From Rainforest to
Bonsai" published by Simon & Schuster Australia with an ISBN No of 0
73180237 3 is good. Also by the same author "Bonsai for the home and
Garden"published by Cornstalk Publishing which is an imprint of Collin
Angus & Robertson Publishers and has an ISBN of 0 207 150184 deals with
some exotic and some native trees. Books by Dorothy & Vita Koreshoff and
published by Boolarong Publications have also been helpful, in particular
"Bonsai with Australian Native Plants" ISBN 0 908175 66 3 but also "You too
can grow Bonsai, Bonsai in Australia" ISBN 0 908175 63 9 although this book
deals mostly with imported plants rather than natives. All of these will give
some info on the kind of growing conditions experienced in this country.
Some of our plants may have problems in colder climates but we do have
some interesting cold weather plants especially the two main Nothofagus
species in this country and plants such as Dacrydium franklinii (Huon Pine).
Another book which does not talk about Bonsai but is an invaluable reference
on our plants is "Australian Native Plants" by John W. Wrigley & Murray
Fagg and published by Angus & Robertson with an ISBN of 0 207 16685 4. I
don't think it is exhaustive but it gives a lot of helpful information about a
lot of plants. I hope this information is helpful to some of you. Also does
anyone know much about growing Sequoia dendron giganteum, mine really
seem to be quite marginal although Sequoia sempervirens are doing well
here.
Magazines
-------------------------
Bonsai Today
Stone Lantern Publishing Co
P.O. Box 816
Sudbury MA 01776
Subscriptions are $42 a year. 6 issues a year.
English translation of a Japanese magazine. Very detailed!
"Bonsai" -- Journal of the American Bonsai Society
Quarterly, ca. 30 pages
Annual membership fee: individual $18, student $11
Information: ABS Executive Sec. Box 358, Keene NH 03431
"Bonsai" magazine
Bonsai Clubs International
Virginia Ellerman
Business Manager
2636 W. Mission Road #277
Tallahassee FL 32304-2556
USA
(6/year; US $20 of $25 membership goes to magazine; single copies $6)
"International Bonsai"
International Bonsai Arboretum
William N. Valavanis
Post Office Box 23894
Rochester NY 14692-3894
USA
(4/year; US $22; foreign $28; never read it; anyone?)
"Bonsai"
("Great Britain's Premiere Bonsai Magazine")
US Telephone: 800 842-5523
(4/year; US $23.95 introductory price; $7.60 sample; never read it)
The following was contributed by Laurent Gentzbittel,
ge...@cicc.univ-bpclermont.fr
- Bonsai actual
in Spanish. Translation of "Kindai Shuppan". Kyoto. Japan
bimonthly.
published by
Ediciones Tyris, S.A.
Plaza Honduras,26
46022 VALENCIA
SPAIN
phone : (96) 355 19 99
[I think it is the original translation of the japanese magazine,
from which Bonsai Today is also derived. In fact, Bonsai Today is
printed in Spain]
- Bonsai Creation - # 1 to # 12
in french. Translation of "Kindai Shuppan". Kyoto. Japan
bimonthly.
The edition of Bonsai creation was stopped in 1992.
[i'm sure it is a french translation of the spanish translation
of the japanese magazine.....]
Hud Nordin
> Newsgroups: rec.arts.bonsai
> Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.950106...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:12:18 -0500
> Sender: Internet Bonsai Club <BON...@WAYNEST1.BITNET>
> From: Dan Cwiertniewicz <d...@FOGHORN.PASS.WAYNE.EDU>
resend
Section 11 -- Suppliers and Nurseries
====================================
Many other supplier and nursery names are available in Bonsai
Today magazine's ad section! This is a list of suppliers that one
or more of the readers of the group has had some contact with.
North America
+++++++++++++++++++++
Master Bonsai
#307-1208 Wharf Street
Victoria, B.C., V8W 3B9
Canada
Tel: 384-0954
Fax: 384-5491
Stocks "finished" specimens up to about 25 years of age, books,
tools, supplies and some starter materials that seemed to be in
the $5(Canadian) range. Also has tools in the $45-$100 (Can)
range.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Takamutsu Bonsai Design
1529 W, 4th ave
Vancouver BC
Canada
(604) 737-2204
Many 100+ trees. Own nursury. All tools and pots for sale. Lessons on a
regular basis. Great trees.
Emile Stehlin
+++++++++++++++++++++
Toronto, Ontario, CA
Picov's Nursery in Ajax...ask for Ray
Shibui Bonsai in T/O (somewhere on Bathurst near the 401) ask for
Arthur
+++++++++++++++++++++
Shibui Bonsai
1165B Saratoga-Sunnyvale Road
Cupertino, CA 95014
(408) 736-8256
(408) 248-5743
Hours: 1st Saturday of the month, 9-12am,
2nd Wednesday, 6-8pm
and by appointment
Shibui carries a large assortment of bonsai supplies, and
specializes in Tokaname pots. If you're looking for a special
pot, this is a good place to check. They also carry wire,
fertilizers, pruning hardware, etc. In addition, they have a
color catalog from which they can order pots from Japan if you
don't find what you're looking for in stock.
++++++++++++++++
Niwa Tools
2661 Bloomfield court
Fairfield CA 94533
(800) 443-5512
Fax:(510) 524-3423
They sell Japanese Bonsai and gardening tools.
++++++++++++++++
Mountain Maples
5901 Spy Rock Road
Laytonville, CA 95454-1329
(707) 984-6522
They carry an astounding variety of Acers, some extremely rare.
Though they attempt to describe trees, the best reference to
accompany their catalog is the book "Japanese Maples" by J.D.
Vertrees. If a local library doesn't have it, Mountain Maples
has it for sale (at $40).
+++++++++++++++++++++
Ken's Bonsai Gardens
471 Page Mill Rd.
Palo Alto, CA 94306
415-325-4840
"Ken" is a master. I was very humbled by visiting his gardens
which are located in his small front yard. Very high-quality
"finished" bonsai. Prices ranged from $20.00 up into the
thousands. No supplies to speak of...just a few pots sitting
on the front porch.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Bonsai Nursery
966 S. Saratoga-Sunnyvale Road
San Jose, CA 95129
408-252-1458
Very nice selection of finished bonsai ranging from $40.00 on
up, clay pots, tools, and starter plants. The starter plants
are in 3" and 4" containers and priced between $3.00-$5.00.
This is a very good way to begin a new bonsai. They also
carry a good selection of plants in 1 gallon containers that
can be "bonsai-ed". Friendly and knowledgeable service.
++++++++++++++++
Shoki Bonsai
3373 San Saba Dr.
San Jose, CA 95148
(408) 238-5229
Tool supplier, carries Masakuni, Kiku, Joshua Rothe and others
Prices are reasonable.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Miniature Plant Kingdom
4125 Harrison Grade Road
Sebastapol, CA 95472
(707) 874-2233
Enormous variety for bonsai and miniature model railroad enthusiasts
+++++++++++++++++++++
Lone Pine Gardens
Lone Pine Road
Sebastapol, CA 95470
(707) 823-5024
Importers of both plants, pots and figurines from china. Also have
many nursery grown varieties.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Carter Seeds
475 Mar Vista Drive
Vista, CA 92083
Predominantly a wholesaler, but they do carry 1 oz packets of
Pinus thubergii (Black Pine) seeds. Write for a catalog.
++++++++++++++++
Exotica Seed Co. & Rare Fruit Nursery
2508-B E. Vista Way,
Vista, CA 92084
(619) 724-9093
(10am - 4pm, 7 days)
(Info temporarily unavailable.)
+++++++++++++++++++++
Bonsai Nursery
3750 S. Federal Blvd.
Denver, CO 80110
(303) 761-3066
2-3 acres of plants. One 20x75 foot roundtop full
of bonsai. Also nice outdoor display.
$3.99 juniper starters. Assortment of other bonsai
(maple, etc.).
Cons: no moss or nifty ground cover for sale.
The people are friendly enough, and they won't try to pull a
fast one on a first-timer (the lady said I didn't need to spend
$25 on a new set of shears--use a pair of cuticle scissors to
see if I like bonsai, then come back and buy the shears). The
clerks didn't know the answers to some of my questions, saying
I should speak to "Mr. Ron" the bonsai guy.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Colorado Bonsai Ltd.
12355 W. 34 Pl
Wheat Ridge CO 80033
(303) 232-8700
Finished and starter bonsai, pots and tools
+++++++++++++++++++++
J & J Landscape
Bonsai International Division
P.O. Box 21683
Tampa, FL 33622-1683
Tel: (813) 645-8777
Bonsai tools (quite a variety), pots (quite expensive), figures
etc.
++++++++++++++++++++
Little Trees
Supplies for Bonsai & Penjing
Herb Frey
(Chicago, IL suburban area)
(708) 323-0257 or (708) 598-4852
Has tools, pots, wire, soil, etc.
++++++++++++++++++++
Flora and Fauna
Horticultural & Biological Consultants
324 Silver Street
Elgin, IL 60123
Michael J. Kolaczewski
(708) 931-5285
Plant materials
++++++++++++++++++++
Sid's Greenhouses, Garden Center
Florists, landscaping
10926 Southwest Highway
Palos Hills, IL 60465
(708) 974-4500
Ask for Dan Kosta, Asst. Greenhouse Mgr., Bonsai Specialist
They have a very good department with Bonsai supplies and
trees, both outdoor and tropical.
++++++++++++++++
Gardens Alive
5100 Schenley Place
Lawrenceburg, IN 47025
(812) 537-8650
Offers nationwide mail-order sources for organic and
environmentally responsible gardening products.
++++++++++++++++
Brussel's Bonsai Nursery Inc.
8365 Center Hill Road
Olive Branch, MS 38654
Telephone: (601) 895-7457
Fax: (601) 895-4157
Brussel's Bonsai catalog is most impressive. "Finished" bonsai
from $10(US) to thousands of (US) dollars, starter plants from
$3 to ~$10(US). They also supply tools, pot, figurines, soil,
books, and other misc. items.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Bonsai West
100 Great Road
P.O. Box 1291
Littleton, MA 01460
They're obviously not Where to buy the best. Another place in the
Northeast has claimed that ;-)
They're just a place that has lots of stuff ranging from starter plants in 3 inc
h pots to specimens purchased across the country. According to Michael
the owner, he buys some from estate autions, some from growers.
From year to year, you never know for sure what he'll have because it
depends on what he finds on his buying trips. This year he had a bunch of
Bald Cypress he picked up in Florida. Most of the plants mentioned in this
newsgroup are there. Rare Georgia Oaks and Australian small leafed
Eucalyptus missing of course ;)
Prices range from a few dollars to over a thousand for some of the older
specimens and groves.
They have regular classes. Some are free. Some cost. Most are very good
value.
For example Introduction to Bonsai Seminar is $89 includes a 5 hour hands
on seminar teaching pruning, wiring, potting and care. You create one large
bonsai and two miniatures. Materials are provided.
At their seasonal open house events they have free demos.
They are bonsai enthusiasts that always have time to talk even if you don't
buy. If you bring in a plant, they'll give quick shaping tips.
I can't speak to authoritatively on prices because I haven't done much
comparative shopping. The only other place I've been is Ken's in Palo Alto.
It's hard to compare because his trees are much nicer. I'm also very cheap so I
wait for the fall sale. They usually discount specimens 25%, pre-bonsai 50%,
pots are 25-75% off.
The three primary guys Michael, Suthin and David, don't advertise
themselves to be masters but they seem to know what they're doing, they
love their work and have studied under some big name masters.
Howard Hayakawa <haya...@STAR.ENET.DEC.COM>
+++++++++++++++++++++
New England Bamboo Company
P.O. Box 358
Rockport, MA 01966
(508) 546-6512
+++++++++++++++++++++
Burt Associates
P.O. Box 719
Westford, MA 01886
(508) 692-3240
Both carry an impressive range of bamboos and the catalogs are
full of good information.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Sara Rayner Pottery
1025 4th St
Red Wing MN 55066
(612) 388-5133
Hand thrown porcelain and stoneware. Specializing in Bonsai
containers!
+++++++++++++++++++++
Gnome Nest Nursery - Bonsai-Landscaping & Rare Plants -
5302 Old Chapel Hill Road, Rt. 7 Box 60, Durham, NC 27707
(919) 419-0719 David Starkey, General Manager.
Their card shows a leprechaun (sigh) planting a bonsai beside a stone
bridge. I s'pose that should be a "gnome" and not a leprechaun. I
used to know what the japanese called their variety of "little people"
but all I can think of now is the hawaiian name (mennehune)(sp). Oh
well, the memory is the first thing to go. . . .
+++++++++++++++++++++
(OUT OF BUSINESS)
Yonemoto's Nursery and Landscaping
208 El Pueblo Rd. NW
(on 2nd just South of Paseo del Norte)
Albuquerque, NM 87114
(505) 898-0120
+++++++++++++++++++++
The International Bonsai Arboreum
412 Pinnacle Road
Rochester, New York 14623
Phone (716) 334-2595
William N. Valavanis
(Publishers of International Bonsai quarterly)
May need an appointment!
+++++++++++++++++++++
Crane's Little York Plantation
Route 281, Little York, NY 13087
Phone 607-749-4861
Tremendous variety of outdoor nursery stock, some bonsai & starter plants
Bill Valavanis
International Bonsai Arboretum
1070 Martin Road, West Henrietta, NY 14586
Phone 716-334-2595
Top bonsai master in upstate NY; wide variety of plants from starters all
the way up, mostly outdoor. Also high quality pots & tools. Symposiums &
workshops.
Also publishes International Bonsai Magazine
POB 23894, Rochester, NY 14692
excellent quality but rather advanced
Special Tree Bonsai
Robert Zink
710 Route 29, Rock City Falls, NY 12863
Phone 518-885-1390
Big selection of mud men, as well as plants
Not far from Pauline Muth
E.W. Schreiner
11 Hilltop Drive, Pittsford, NY 14534
Phone 716-586-8773
Inexpensive hand-made stands, unusual nursery stock
Lone Tree Bonsai
Harley Sims
5998 Route 96, Farmington, NY 14425
Phone Greenhouse, 716-394-8550, Office, 716-742-2765
Business is actually in Canandaigua.
Wide selection of plants, indoor & outdoor, good prices, Chinese pots at
wholesale prices.
Bonsai Garden at HomeScapes
Route 13 at East Franklin Street
Horseheads, NY 14845
Phone 607-739-7279
I haven't been there, as it is down near Elmira.
Menne Nursery
3100 Niagara Falls Blvd.
Amherst, NY 14228
(716) 693-4444
They aren't bonsai specific, but they keep a decent selection of
indoor bonsai and some outdoor trees (they say that they stock
more in the spring.) They have some pots and keep basic bonsai
tools and supplies on hand. Prices are inconsistant - some
things are good deals, some not. A few members of the staff
know bonsai, others try to be nice, but are pretty unhelpful.
All in all, if you live in the Buffalo area, it's more
convienient than a drive out to Rochester for supplies etc. but
certainly won't replace the bigger bonsai specialists.
Iris Cohen
+++++++++++++++++++++
Raska Sales
Mike Raska
Skiatook, OK
(918) 396-1881
(918) 396-2663 (FAX)
Highly recommended by the submitter as a friendly and
knowledgeable dealer of bonsai, starter plants, pottery, and
tools.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Brian Mcpherson <mcp...@GEOPHYSICS.GCN.UOKNOR.EDU> sent this
in, but it's signed Blithe. Hmmm.
Greer Gardens
1280 Goodpasture Island Road
Eugene Oregon, 97401
1-800-548-0111 for orders only
1-503-686-8266
fax-1-503-686-0910
This is a most astounding company and I have been very pleased with all I
have gotten from them. I do admit they sell more than bonsai material but is
isall trees and shrubs plus the bonsai section. At least have them send you a
ca catalog. I've had my new one about 2 weeks and still haven't been able to
narrow down my list of wishes to within budget. they are reasonabley priced-
-I just see so many unusal offerings that are really what I want to have.
good browsing
Blithe
++++++++++++++++
MicroFolia
PO Box 265
Camp Hill, PA 17001
(717) 691-0286
Mail order only. Japanese and Chinese pottery, Masakuni and
Kiku tools, general potting supplies. Free catalog.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Sho Fu-En Bonsai
Jim Gillespie
3183 Pine Rd.
Danielsville, PA 18038
(215) 837-6688
+++++++++++++++++++++
The Importer
370 Lancaster Ave.
Frazer, PA 19355
(215) 644-8288
Pots and other accessories
+++++++++++++++++++++
Natures Way Nursery and Bonsai Studio
James F. Doyle
1451 Pleasant Hill Rd.
Harrisburg, PA 17112
(717) 545-4555
+++++++++++++++++++++
Old Mill Bonsai Studio and Nursery
Howard McNeal
Box 502 RD #1
Honeybrook, PA 19344
(215) 642-2602
+++++++++++++++++++++
Rosade Bonsai Studio
6912 Ely R.
Solebury
New Hope, PA 18938-9634
(215) 862-5925
hours: Fri, Sat, Sun 11-5 or by appointment
+++++++++++++++++++++
The Bonsai Shop at the Community Arts Center
414 Plush Mill Rd.
Wallingford, PA
(215) 358-3412
+++++++++++++++++++++
The Bonsai Farm
13827 Hwy. 87 So.
Adkins, TX 78101
USA
Tel: (512) 649-2109
Owners: Edith & Leonard Sorge
(Note: Good variety plants for indoor and outdoor bonsai
tools, and pots)
+++++++++++++++++++++
Midwest Bonsai Pottery
8311 Racine Trail
Austin, TX 78717
Mike and Candy Hansen, the proprietors, have a stoneware
pottery and bonsai-ery. They sell trees, pots, tools, soil
mixes, and other equipment.
++++++++++++++++++++
Dallas Bonsai Garden
PO Box 801565
Dallas, TX 75380-1565
(214) 661-3421
Owners Fred & Elizabeth Meyer
Quotes: "Specialist in the Rare & Unusual since 1965"
"The Most complete Bonsai Store in the Americas!!"
"America's largest Bonsai importer"
They offer a complete line of Bonsai accessories, fertilizers,
vitamins, pots-ceramic & plastic, bonsai tools, bonsai seeds,
vacationers, Tillandsia air plants, butterflies & rare plants.
++++++++++++++++
Brudy's Tropical Exotics
P.O. Box 820874
Houston, TX 77282-0874
800/926-7333
There are 16 pages with seeds, about 6/8 seeds to a page, with line drawings
of leaves/cones/flowers and a brief description, plus propagation methods.
Their packets average 15 seeds per, and they seemed to range in price from
$2.10 - $4.50 a packet. Everything from acer, cypress, mimosa, to pines.
++++++++++++++++
All Things Bonsai
Greenfield WI
(414)421-9122 (Ask for Gerry)
By Appointment Only!
Specializing in tropical and indoor bonsai. Private instruction,
consultation, demos lectures, workshops, personalized styling
and bonsai supplies
++++++++++++++++
Europe and the UK
+++++++++++++++++++++
Greenwood Gardens
Ollerton Road
Arnold
Nottingham
ENGLAND.
NG5 8PR
Tel: 0602 205757
+++++++++++++++++++++
Chiltern Seeds
Bortree Stile
Ulverston
Cumbria
LA12 7PB
England
Phone: 0229 581137
Fax: 0229 584549
(from UK: I don't know what this will look like from overseas)
In the UK, send them two first class stamps to get their
catalogue. Overseas: phone them?
The catalogue contains about 4000 (estimate) species & variants,
including (for example) 26 maples, 23 pines, 5 wisterias, 2
zelkovas. Species that are known to be good for Bonsai are
marked. I have found that their service is prompt.
(richard...@bae.eurokom.ie)
+++++++++++++++++++++
Ruukkupuu
PL 32
36601 PALKANE
FINLAND
Tel. (936) 2842
Finnish bonsai-equipment supplier (has been for about 20
years now). It has quite large selection of pots and other
equipment, may have indoor bonsai soon...
Section 12 -- Turface Distributors
Contributed by Ces...@AOL.COM
The following information was correct as of Feb 1991. I have not tried any of
the places yet.
Green Meadows (I am told it might have changed name but its still there)
5050 Beech Place
Temple Hills, MD 20748
301-899-3535
Bonsai Associates Inc.
Mill Centre, Suite 106
3000 Chesnut Ave
Baltimore, MD 21211
301-235-5336
Section 13 -- Pricing
Channon R. Quillen (cha...@tenet.edu) contributed the following
information in April of 1994.
Wire prices.
Brussel's Bonsai Nursery:
Bronze color aluminum training wire. Available sizes 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm,
2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm, 6mm.
Small roll $2.50
Medium roll $4.50
Kilogram roll $28.00
I'm not sure what is meant by small and medium sizes.
Artistic Plants:
Anodized aluminum wire specially made for working with Bonsai.
Sizes..Same as above except for 4.5mm and above.
100gm packages $4.50
500gm (1/2 kilogram) rolls. Same sizes as Brussel's. $13.50
The prices are usually higher from The Bonsai Farm on other items too.
Section 14 -- Permanent Bonsai Exhibits
Ralph Stockhausen <r...@BFS.UWM.EDU> contributed this information in
May of 1994
Following is a list of permanent Bonsai exhibits and Japanese Gardens.
This is derived from books, email I received and postings to
rec.arts.bonsai.
Its not a huge list, but not bad for a start. One thing lacking is an
address for most places. It would also be nice to have a schedule and
admission fees. If more info is forth-coming, I'm willing to keep up
the list. (It would be even better if the FAQ people would take it over).
CAVEAT VISITOR: The accuracy of this list is unknown. Investigate before
making a trip.
Name:
National Arboretum
Location:
3501 New York Avenue, N.E
Washington, DC 20002
The bonsai are housed in the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum. The
bonsai exhibit is open daily from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Visiting exhibits from
clubs around the area are highlighted every month . Almost every Sunday
there are bonsai demonstrations and/or advise sessions conducted by an
expert
No admission charge.
Name:
Pacific Northwest Bonsai Collection
Location:
Weyerhauser Corporate Offices
Federal Way, WA
Name:
Arnold Arboretum
Location:
Boston, MA
Name:
Brooklyn Botanical Garden
Location:
1000 Washington Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11225
Name:
San Diego Wild Animal Park
Location:
Escondido, CA
Bonsai/Peng Jing (?)
Name:
Botanical Garden (in city ?)
Location:
HangZhou, China
Name:
Zhang Da-Qian house
Location:
Taipei, Taiwan
Name:
Botanical Gardens
Location:
Taipei, Taiwan
Section 15 -- Japanese Gardens
Name:
Duke Gardens
Location:
Somerville, NJ
201-722-3700
Name:
Gulf States Paper Corp.
Location:
P.O. Box 3199
Tuscaloosa, AL
205-553-6200
Name:
Hillwood Museum Gardens
Location:
4155 Linnean Ave. NW
Washington, DC
Name:
Morikami
Location:
Yamato Colony
Palm Beach County, FL
Name:
Oriental Stroll Garden
Location:
Hammond Museum
North Salem, NY
Name:
Missouri Botanical Gardens
Location:
2101 Tower Grove Ave.
St. Louis, MO
314-865-0440
Name:
Anderson Gardens
Location:
2214 Stoneridge Dr.
Rockford, IL
815-877-2525
Name:
Chicago Botanical Garden
Location:
Lake Cook Rd.
Glen Coe (?), IL
Name:
Kelly Park
Location:
San Jose, CA
Name:
Golden Gate Park
Location:
San Francisco, CA
Name:
Hakone Garden
Location:
Saratoga, CA
Name:
University of Washington Arboretum
Location:
Seattle, WA
Name:
Botanical Gardens
Location:
Memphis, TN
Name:
Brooklyn Botanical Garden
Location:
1000 Washington Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11225
Name:
Longwood Gardens
Location:
Pennsylvania
Name:
Huntington Library & Gardens
Location:
San Marino (?), CA
Hud Nordin
> Newsgroups: rec.arts.bonsai
> Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.950106...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:12:39 -0500
> Sender: Internet Bonsai Club <BON...@WAYNEST1.BITNET>
> From: Dan Cwiertniewicz <d...@FOGHORN.PASS.WAYNE.EDU>
resend
Section 16 -- Dictionary of Japanese bonsai terms
Bonsai styles ---
chokkan (Formal Upright)
The chokkan bonsai typically has a single, upright
trunk that tapers toward the top. Branches are
symmetrically balanced and well spaced.
moyogi (Informal Upright)
Moyogi bonsai have a single trunk like the chokkan,
but the trunk is usually curved. The trunk generally
tapers toward the top like the formal upright.
kabudachi (Multiple Trunks)
sokan (Twin Trunk)
sankan (Triple Trunk)
gokan (5 trunk)
Two (or 3 or 5) trunks growing from the same root.
Usually one trunk is the largest and is referred to
as the parent. Good conformation is based on the
aesthetic balance of the smaller 'children' to the
parent in trunk thickness.
shakan (Slanting)
A single trunk, similar to the formal and informal
upright, but cultivated with the trunk growing at
an angle other than 90 degrees to the ground.
Branches are again balanced and well spaced.
netsuranari or netsunagari (Sinuous)
sinuous bonsai have multiple trees growing from a
single sinuous root. 5 needle pine are most commonly
used for this style.
neagari (Exposed Root)
Roots growing up out of the ground, suspending the
trunk in the air, characterize this rare style of
bonsai.
ikada (Raft)
Similar in effect to netsuranari, but typically with
one straight horizontal root joining the trees.
This is usually accomplished by burying a larger
tree horizontally and then training each branch as a
separate tree.
fukinagashi (Windswept)
Similar to the slanting style, but all of the
branches are swept in one direction as though it
were growing in a place with a strong constant
prevailing wind.
kengai (Cascade)
An unusual form where the trunk and branches arch
and 'cascade' over the edge of the pot. Usually
planted in a deep pot to give balance to its
unusual form.
bunjingi (Literati)
Upright or informally upright trunk bare of branches
except at the top, characterized by a tasteful
simple elegance.
hokidachi (Broom)
Broom style trees have an upright trunk, with
branches evenly fanned out. It resembles an old
fashioned broom standing on its handle.
yose-ue (Group)
A group planting of distinct separate trees,
representing a grove, or forest.
ishitsuki (Rock-grown)
There are two basic types of rock grown bonsai:
root grasping the rock, where the roots do enter
the soil the rock is protruding from; and on, or
in the rock, where the tree is planted in a pocket
of earth attached to the rock, or in a hollow in
the rock.
Growing techniques
misho -- Grown from seed
yamadori -- Collecting plants from nature
sashiki -- Grown from cuttings
tsugiki -- Grafting
toriki -- Layering and dividing
Other Japanese bonsai terms --
nebari -- The rootball of a bonsai
Section 17 -- Dictionary of Latin Botanical Terms
-- (Note: This section is complete within the limits of my
documentation)
abbreviatus -- short
acuminatus -- long tapering point
acutifolius -- with sharp leaves
adpressus -- pressed together, pressed against
adscendens, ascendens -- going up
aerius -- of the air, as air-roots
affinus -- related, with an affinity
africanus -- from Africa
alatus -- winged
albescens -- pale, whitish
albidus, albus -- white
albiflorus -- with white flowers
alpinus -- of the alpines, mountains
alternus -- alternating, usually means NOT directly opposite
altus -- altitude, tall
amabilis -- pretty
amphibius -- adaptable either to land or water
angulosus -- angled, turning every which way
angustifolius -- with narrow leaves (seldom used, more
commonly nerifolius)
aquaticus -- of the water, water-loving
arborescens -- growing like a tree, woody like a tree
arenatius -- found in sandy places
argenteus, argentus -- silvery
aristatus -- bearded
arrectus -- straight up, erect
asiaticus, asiatus -- from Asia
atlanticus -- Atlantic
atropurpureus, atropurpurea -- purple, sometimes dark red
atrosanguineus -- dark blood-red
atroviolaceus -- dark violet
atrovirens -- dark green
augustus -- important in size or appearance, imposing
aurantiacus -- orange-red
aureus -- golden
azureus -- deep blue, azure
babylonicus -- Babylonian, from Babylon
balticus -- from the Baltic
bengalinis -- from Bengal
biennis -- biennial
biflorus -- two flowered
bifolius -- two leaved
brefolius -- with short leaves
brevis -- short
brevisimus -- very short
brillian -- brilliant
brittanicus -- from Britain
brunneus -- brown
bulgarius -- Bulgarian
buxifolius -- with leaves like a boxwood, box-leaved
calamifolius -- with reed-like leaves
californicus -- from California
campestris -- found in fields
candelabrum -- having the form of a candelabra
candicans -- white or frosty looking
carneus -- flesh-colored
catitatus -- headed
cerefolius -- with waxy leaves
coccineus -- bright red
coloratus -- colored
columnaris -- having the form of a column
concolor -- similar coloring
conglomeratus -- all close together
contortus -- twisted, contorted
cordatus -- heart-shaped
cornutus, cornuta -- horned or horn-shaped
crassifolius -- with thick leaves
crenatus -- serrated
cuspidatus -- sharp tooth, or hard point
deformis -- deformed
deliciosus, deliciosa -- delicious
dendroideus -- like a tree
densatus -- dense
densifolius -- with dense leaves
densiflorus -- with dense flowers
dentatus -- toothed, with a series of points
dipterus -- two-winged
discolor -- of two or several colors
dissectus -- deeply cut leaves, as in fern-leaved maple
divaricatus -- spreading
domesticus -- domesticated
edulis -- can be eaten
elatus, elata -- tall
elegans -- elegant, graceful
elongatus -- long
erectus -- upright
excelsius, excelsus -- tall
exoticus, exotica -- from another country
fastigiatus -- having nearly vertical, close-together branches
ferox -- fierce, thorny
flaccidus -- soft, limp
flammeus -- flame-colored
flexilis -- bendable, flexible
floripleno -- with double flowers
floribundus -- with many flowers
foetidus -- bad-smelling, having a fetid odor
fragrans -- sweet-smelling, fragrant
fragrantissimus -- very sweet-smelling
frutescens -- bushy, shrubby, twiggy
gallicus -- from Gaul (France), may also pertain to a rooster
giganticus -- large, gigantic
glaucus -- with a frost-like bloom, as on a grape
gloriosus, gloriosa -- great, superb
gracilis -- slender, graceful, lissome
grandifolius -- with large leaves
guttatus -- freckled
haemanthus -- bright red flowers
humilis -- dwarf, low
ilicifolius -- holly-like leaves
japonicus -- from Japan
lancifolius -- with lance-like leaves
latifolius -- with broad leaves
leptolepis -- with thin scales
leptophyllus -- with thin leaves
leucodermis -- with white skin
lobularius -- lobed
luteus -- yellow
macranthus -- with large flowers
macro -- big, long, large
maximus -- the largest
medius -- medium
megalophyllus -- with very large leaves
microphyllus -- with very small leaves
minimus -- very small
mollis -- hairy, fuzzy
myriophyllus -- with many leaves
nanus, nana -- dwarf, small
nerifolius, nerifolia -- with narrow leaves
niger -- black
nodulosa -- with small nodes
nudifolia -- deciduous, naked of leaves
oblongatus -- oblong, oval
officinalis -- medicinal
parviflorus -- with small flowers
parvifolia -- with small leaves
patens -- spreading
pinous -- pine-like
podocarpus -- with stalked fruits
polydactylus -- with many fingers
porphyreus -- purple
praecox -- very early
procumbens -- procumbent, lying down
pumilus -- dwarf, small
pygmaeus -- pygmy
pyramidalis -- pyramidal
repens -- creeping, low
reticulatus -- with a netted pattern
robustus -- strong, robust
roseaflorus -- with rose-like flowers
rotundifolius -- with round leaves
scandens -- climbing
semperflorens -- everblooming
sempervirens -- always green
serpens -- creeping
serpyllifolius -- with thyme-like leaves
serratus -- with a saw tooth edge
stolenifera -- with runners that root and send up
another plant
strictus -- erect
sylvaticus -- of the forest
tenuifolius -- with slender leaves
tomentosus -- very wooly
tridens -- with three teeth or points
variegatus -- variegated
verrucosus -- warty
virens -- green
virginianus -- of Virginia, first defined in Virginia
viridis -- green
vulgaris -- common, vulgar, ordinary
xanthinus -- yellow
zonalis -- banded
Section C -- Contributors
This section is a listing of the contributors to this list. I
want to include this info so we all know who to thank..and who
we can talk to.
Here goes...
Name netmail, Snail Mail etc Contribution
-------------- ----------------------- -------------
Andy Hart an...@cmptrc.lonestar.org creator of
CompuTrac, Inc. alt.bonsai
222 Municipal Drive dictionary
Richardson, TX 75080 USA contributions
Mike Bartolone bart...@med.ge.com 1st FAQ compiler
cs...@cleveland.freenet.edu
3459 S. 110th St #217
West Allis WI 53227 USA
Brian Corll brian...@paonline.com 2nd FAQ editor
7244...@compuserve.com
MicroFolia
PO Box 265
Camp Hill, PA 17001
Dan d...@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu Current FAQ editor
Cwiertniewicz 20658 Woodmont Creator of the
Harper Woods, MI 48225 Bonsai Listserv
Hud Nordin h...@netcom.com ABS-BCI Book
service list
(and MUCH more!)
Bruce Barnett bar...@crd.ge.com Bonsai Today
address..
Reji Martin var...@atlas.cs.upei.ca More books,
Prince Edward Island, and suppliers
Canada
Linda Brigman Linda....@bbs.oit.unc.edu More books
l...@rcc.rti.org (internet)
lgb@rti (bitnet)
Kreg Webb kw...@sedona.intel.com Book and Mag
Intel, Corp. C3-36 addresses
5000 W. Chandler Blvd
Chandler, AZ 85226
Klaus
Zeppenfeld kl...@informatik.Uni-Osnabrueck.DE Club listing
Breslauerstr. 23
D-4760 Werl
Germany
Jonas Flygare fl...@mizar.docs.uu.se FAQ Questions
Va\"ktargatan 32 F:621
S-754 22 Uppsala
Sweden
Marlon Cole ccz...@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or Supplier
ccz...@uk.ac.nott.unicorn address
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
Nottingham
ENGLAND
NG7 2RD
Urban Fredriksson u...@icl.se FAQ opinions
(n.g.u.fredri...@oasis.icl.co.uk) club listing
Janet Jakstys UUCP:{ames,pyramid!amdahl,hplabs}!ntmtv!janet
Northern Telecom INTERNET:ntmtv!ja...@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Mtn. View, CA. supplier listing
John & Jame Amoroso j...@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu additional history
Gainesville, FL ja@ifasgnv
Joel W. Collins, III jwco...@ulkyvx.louisville.edu FAQ
(University of Louisville) question
1443 S. 2nd St., Apt. 2
Louisville, KY 40208 USA
Bill Lindsay BI...@HARVARDA.HARVARD.EDU Brooklyn Bot.
Garden address
Reji Martin var...@atlas.cs.upei.ca More books,
Prince Edward Island, and suppliers
Canada
Diane Jean Nakashian dia...@world.std.com More addresses
Acton, MA, USA
William A. Young (Butch) way...@n4wmt.b24c.ingr.com
Huntsville, AL Suppliers addresses
Ron 'Coyote' Lussier coy...@sti.com Supplier Address
Software Transformation
1601 Saratoga-Sunnyvale Rd, #100
Cupertino, CA 95014
(408) 973-8081 x315
Greg Bishop (bis...@baeyer.chem.fsu.edu) More book information
Tallahassee, FL
Gail Valentine g.j.va...@att.att.com Club and supplier
and starw...@aol.com listing
Dick Meinke 73054,23...@compuserve.com
GJVal...@aol.com
AiKi...@aol.com
Jean Conway eco...@nmsu.edu FAQ rev. 2 reviewer
Andy Walsh WALSHA%ALLOY....@pucc.Princeton.EDU FAQ rev. 2 reviewer
Kay E. Lowell klo...@goldng8.UnivNorthCo.edu FAQ rev. 2 reviewer
Assistant Professor of
Library Science/Catalog Librarian
James A. Michener Library
University of Northern Colorado
Greeley, CO 80639
****************************************************************