peavey 210tx crossovers
Andy and Vicki Haines
drivers to run full range rather than sending all the top end to the
(rather harsh) HF horn?
thanks for any help,
Andy
Bath
UK
Dan F Crea
<andy...@grey17.u-net.com> wrote:
A related crossover question for you speaker design types... I have a
Genz-Benz 1x12 + tweeter cab, and it doesn't have a crossover in it, the
signal just splits off to both the tweeter and speaker equally. But it
doesn't seem to suffer any ill effects when compared to my old Yorkville
4x10 cab, which had a built in crossover, and it also had what I felt was
a really harsh and annoying tweeter. What's the crossover really for,
anyway? It seems to me that the speaker(s) aren't going to reproduce the
high frequencies that the tweeter is reproducing, and the tweeter
certainly isn't going to reproduce the speaker's low frequencies...
Any thoughts?
Dan
--
<I need to get a signature file...>
Andy Morgan
> Does anyone know how to perform the mod on the PV210tx cab to get the
> drivers to run full range rather than sending all the top end to the
> (rather harsh) HF horn?
> thanks for any help,
Doesnt this model have bi-amp inputs? I run a peavey rig too and both
my cabs (a 2x8 1x15 and a 15" sub-bass) have both "full range" inputs
which run through the crossovers and bi-amp inputs which run direct to
the speaklers. Theoretically you just need to open your cab and add a
socket that runs straight to the speakers, bypassing the x-over. The
only thing you need to know is how the speakers are wired in
series/parallel
andy M
Brian E Running
naturally gets extremely high below a certain frequency, and it just won't
accept current below that frequency as a result. Kind of a built-in
crossover. Dynamic tweeters (with a voice coil) don't have that
characteristic, and they need a crossover to protect them from receiving
low-frequency current, which is much too strong for small, lightweight
tweeter voice coils to handle. Crossovers block frequencies below a
certain level from going to the tweeters (a high-pass filter).
Pat Smith
<andrew...@erlangen.netsurf.de> wrote:
>Doesnt this model have bi-amp inputs? I run a peavey rig too and both
>my cabs (a 2x8 1x15 and a 15" sub-bass) have both "full range" inputs
>which run through the crossovers and bi-amp inputs which run direct to
>the speaklers. Theoretically you just need to open your cab and add a
>socket that runs straight to the speakers, bypassing the x-over. The
>only thing you need to know is how the speakers are wired in
>series/parallel
>
>
>andy M
I'm not sure if recommending running full-range direct to the Fostex
horn is good advice. If you're using bi-amp direct in's it calls for a
crossover before the speaker - or some sort of HPF for the horn at
least. I have a Peavy 410TX and I've blown the horn once.
=============================
Pat Smith <sals...@yahoo.com>
Dan F Crea
<brunnin...@execpc.com> wrote:
Interesting, thanks, Brian! When I get some time I'll take it apart again
and check out the tweeter more closely. All I could determine from
looking at it before is that it's made by Motorola, and it's really
lightweight. Is one kind of tweeter "better" than the other?
Thanks again,
Brian E Running
I think the mod they're describing would be to remove the low-pass from the
10-inchers only, making them full-range. Assuming there is a low-pass, of
course.
Brian E Running
pulled out the crossover last night to see what's up. Here's what you do:
Take the crossover off the back of the cabinet. You will find the
underside of a printed circuit board, and there will be some plugs attached
to pins there. One of the plugs will be marked, on the PCB, "inductor",
and its leads will go to an iron-core inductor, looks just like a little
transformer. If you examine the circuit, you'll see that this inductor is
the only thing in the circuit path to the 10 inch drivers. This inductor
is the low-pass device, and it's what you need to remove from the circuit.
What I did to test first was to pull the plug off and put a wire jumper
across the pins, and tried the amp. Voila. It really does make a big
(positive) difference. Suddenly, all the muffled boominess is gone. So,
deciding that I wanted this as a permanent change, I pulled the jumper off,
cut the leads to the inductor and soldered the two ends on the plug
together, turning the lead into a jumper. Insulated it with shrink-wrap
tubing, and put it back together. Also insulated the ends of the wires
coming from the inductor, just in case they ever came into contact with any
conductors.
I also noted that Peavey uses some really flimsy, 18-gauge wiring inside
the cabinet, and someday I'm going to replace all that with some proper
12-gauge wire.
bria...@my-deja.com
I can't show the full schematic here, but unscrew and pop out the
crossover module and you 'll see a circuit board with a number of KEYED
connectors going to the various drivers and crossover components.
I used an ohmmeter to figure out where the signal came in and then ran a
wire from this point to the connection for the 10s. I then simply
DISCONNECTED the tweeter and inductors by unplugging the connectors (I
then bundled them up with electrical tape).
When I undid the mod, I removed the one wire and plugged the connectors
back together (since they are all keyed, you can't screw it up).
If you want to keep the tweeter working but run the 10s full range, it's
not much more complicated, but requires cutting of wires and more
soldering.
Brian
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Dan F Crea
<brunnin...@execpc.com> wrote:
My local Audio King (or any place where audiophiles hang out should do)
has Monster speaker cable for sale, and they'll cut whatever length you
need. I got the best 8-guage they had, because what's a $.50/ft
difference in price when you only need two feet?
Well worth it, for my purposes. A highly recommended and simple mod.
Andy and Vicki Haines
to you with the results/questions!
Great group...
Andy