Waxing new car ... Questions
fake....@stonyx.com
in Midnight Blue) and I'd like to baby it a bit, so I'm hoping to give
it a good waxing this weekend. I've got a few questions though. First
off, the brands that I have access to are Mothers, Meguiar's, Eagle
One, Turtle Wax, Simoniz, DuPont, and NuFinish. I've looked around and
other brands are pretty hard for me to get, so no point in recommending
them ...
Now for the questions. Should I be using any sort of polish? I know
Meguiar's has their three step process they recommend, Cleaner, Polish,
Wax. However, don't polishes actually remove some of the existing
clear coat (or paint if there's no clear coat)? If no polish, should I
bother with a special cleaner? I'm worried about the cleaner being too
harsh and also removing some of the existing finish on the car.
On a new car is it best just to wash it good with soap, dry, and then
wax? Or should I be doing something extra?
Now onto recommendations ... I don't always have time to spend on the
car, so the longer the wax lasts the better. Which leads me to believe
that I'm probably better of with one of those synthetic ?polymer?
finishes, not carnauba wax, since they are supposed to last longer.
Correct?
I've read that Eagle One Gold Class is pretty good, but I can't find
any comments about how long it lasts. Also I'm not sure if it's
carnauba wax or polymer based. Btw, is the paste and liquid stuff both
just as good?
I haven't been able to find too many other recommendations for polymer
based stuff from the brands mentioned above. Unless I should be
sticking with carnauba wax, in which case I've read that Mother's Pure
Carnauba wax is good ... again does it matter whether it's the paste or
liquid?
Thank you for taking the time to help out,
Harry
N8N
wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
nate
Dave Stone
news:1125503678.7...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> I'm picking up my brand new car tonight (2006 Hyundai Elantra VE 5
> Door in Midnight Blue) and I'd like to baby it a bit, so I'm hoping to
> give it a good waxing this weekend. I've got a few questions though.
> First off, the brands that I have access to are Mothers, Meguiar's,
> Eagle One, Turtle Wax, Simoniz, DuPont, and NuFinish. I've looked
> around and other brands are pretty hard for me to get, so no point in
> recommending them ...
Have you searched online? Take a look at http://www.autogeek.net/ or
http://froogle.google.com if you have a specific product in mind.
> Now for the questions. Should I be using any sort of polish? I know
> Meguiar's has their three step process they recommend, Cleaner,
> Polish, Wax. However, don't polishes actually remove some of the
> existing clear coat (or paint if there's no clear coat)? If no
> polish, should I bother with a special cleaner? I'm worried about the
> cleaner being too harsh and also removing some of the existing finish
> on the car.
Not sure if you want to clean/polish a new car. You might check with the
service people at the dealership.
> On a new car is it best just to wash it good with soap, dry, and then
> wax? Or should I be doing something extra?
>
> Now onto recommendations ... I don't always have time to spend on the
> car, so the longer the wax lasts the better. Which leads me to
> believe that I'm probably better of with one of those synthetic
> ?polymer? finishes, not carnauba wax, since they are supposed to last
> longer. Correct?
Yes, it is generally true that synthetics last longer. Some would argue pure
carnauba yields a better look. This is a subject of much debate, especially
with the sheer number of products out there.
> I've read that Eagle One Gold Class is pretty good, but I can't find
> any comments about how long it lasts. Also I'm not sure if it's
> carnauba wax or polymer based. Btw, is the paste and liquid stuff
> both just as good?
The label should distinctly say carnauba or polymer/synthetic. Google?
> I haven't been able to find too many other recommendations for polymer
> based stuff from the brands mentioned above. Unless I should be
> sticking with carnauba wax, in which case I've read that Mother's Pure
> Carnauba wax is good ... again does it matter whether it's the paste
> or liquid?
Klasse (synthetic) is worth a look. I used the sealant glaze on an older
car. You might have to order it online. Liquid will usually be easier to
apply than paste. YMMV
M. MacDonald
Follow it with a good glaze and then a wax of your choice (polymers clean up
nicely). Maybe "Meguiar's Proper Machine Polishing Video" while you're at
it. Helps speed up the process and produces a very nice wet-like shine when
done.
I used some 3M Glazing Compound that helped to eliminate a lot of the
factory orange peel surface defects. The Meguiar's Polymer wax (about $15)
worked well and came off easier than most waxes (I believe it has some
carnauba in it). The Meguiar's website has an online user customizable
feature that will guide you through the use a the products.
Mack
kaboom
>you shoudn't need to use a cleaner or cleaner wax on a new car. Just
>wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
**Do NOT or ever use dish soap. That aside, you probably don't need to
wax your new car just yet though I would wax it in Oct or Nov just
before winter. Also, don't use Armor All inside.
Cloths are important also. Use the softest of soft 100% cotton cloths
and also microfiber cloths are nice as they grab the residue (i.e.,
doing that post-wax wipedown) instead of pushing it around.
kaboomie
wtrplnet
your paint.
Unless your car has been sitting in a storage yard for a long time it
shouldn't need any sort of cleaner or compound to prep before waxing. Wash
it using a soap designed specifically for washing cars.
A few years back Consumer Reports tested all kinds of car waxes. Nu Finish
got the highest rating, it's also a lot less expensive than the more exotic
brands. Nothing against Meguires, Mothers or others, just that a new car
shouldn't need any special care products.
fake....@stonyx.com
Thanks,
Harry
N8N
kaboom wrote:
> On 31 Aug 2005 09:21:31 -0700, "N8N" <njn...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >you shoudn't need to use a cleaner or cleaner wax on a new car. Just
> >wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
>
> **Do NOT or ever use dish soap. That aside, you probably don't need to
> wax your new car just yet though I would wax it in Oct or Nov just
> before winter. Also, don't use Armor All inside.
I agree in general, but what's the harm if you're going to wax
immediately? It will clean more thoroughly than regular car wash.
>
> Cloths are important also. Use the softest of soft 100% cotton cloths
> and also microfiber cloths are nice as they grab the residue (i.e.,
> doing that post-wax wipedown) instead of pushing it around.
>
agreed...
nate
N8N
Story I've heard is that it strips the plasticizers from the surfaces
and replaces them with its own chemicals, and if you ever stop using it
you'll end up with a hideous, cracked mess.
That said, I don't like it anyway - too shiny and attracts dirt.
Personally I've had good luck with a wipedown with a mild Murphy's Oil
Soap solution (seriously) and some Meguiar's vinyl and rubber
protectant if you feel the need to use same.
You don't need to worry about this hopefully but my secret weapon for
old, hard vinyl is hand cleaner with lanolin, rubbed into a toothbrush
and left to sit, then buffed with a terry cloth towel. Seriously.
nate
kaboom
>
>kaboom wrote:
>> On 31 Aug 2005 09:21:31 -0700, "N8N" <njn...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >you shoudn't need to use a cleaner or cleaner wax on a new car. Just
>> >wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
>>
>> **Do NOT or ever use dish soap. That aside, you probably don't need to
>> wax your new car just yet though I would wax it in Oct or Nov just
>> before winter. Also, don't use Armor All inside.
>
>I agree in general, but what's the harm if you're going to wax
>immediately? It will clean more thoroughly than regular car wash.
**It'll trash the paint. I've seen it firsthand as a lady who lived
below me at one time, used Joy on her Miata. I've never seen a car
that was a couple of years old with a paint job so darn bad on it.
Completely dull (it looked like bare matte finish paint...really
weird) and scratched to hell. I've only seen paint like that on cars
that've been in junkyards. Car wash liquid is cheap and, at this
point, he probably doesn't need anything 'gritty' to clean his car.
kaboomicus
kaboom
>
>fake.e-m...@stonyx.com wrote:
>> Curious ... why no Armor All?
>
>Story I've heard is that it strips the plasticizers from the surfaces
>and replaces them with its own chemicals, and if you ever stop using it
>you'll end up with a hideous, cracked mess.
>
>That said, I don't like it anyway - too shiny and attracts dirt.
**Yes to the above and yes to too shiny. Bleah!
>Personally I've had good luck with a wipedown with a mild Murphy's Oil
>Soap solution (seriously) and some Meguiar's vinyl and rubber
>protectant if you feel the need to use same.
**I use a dampened cloth to swipe down surfaces, let it dry. If I
find, say a drop or two of soda sticky, then I might use the dampened
paper towel that I used to clean the windows to clean up that spot.
Then I used a swiffer thingie that my brother in law gave me to try
and it was awesome! Just a light brush against surfaces picked up all
the dust and dirt and it does a good job getting in vents and stuff
like that.
I just looked it up online, it's a Swiffer duster.
kaboomie
fake....@stonyx.com
Class. Just wanted to point that out ... my mistake. I was thinking
of Eagle One Black Magic, which apparently is supposed to be decent too
... any info on how long it lasts?
Btw, if it's polymer based, can I automatically assume that it will
last longer than a carnauba wax based wax?
Thanks,
Harry
James C. Reeves
the mild cleaning and Mr. Clean magic eraser for the tough scuffs. No
soaps!!! I have a 10-year old Caravan and the dash looks brand new still
(and it is not garaged at home or at work either). Never had soap or
anything else on it on it but plain water.
"kaboom" <kaboo...@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4315efd3.13102812@news.snet.sbcglobal.net...
James C. Reeves
finish fairly quickly. I haven't used dish soap for 25 years...been afraid
to.
"kaboom" <kaboo...@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4315ee23...@news.snet.sbcglobal.net...
Hurricane1000
would use household soap only if you plan on waxing the vehicle
afterwards. I use Nanowax on both of my cars. It works very good.
Centella Cajon
>I'm picking up my brand new car tonight (2006 Hyundai Elantra VE 5 Door
>in Midnight Blue) and I'd like to baby it a bit, so I'm hoping to give
>it a good waxing this weekend. I've got a few questions though. First
>off, the brands that I have access to are Mothers, Meguiar's, Eagle
>One, Turtle Wax, Simoniz, DuPont, and NuFinish. I've looked around and
>other brands are pretty hard for me to get, so no point in recommending
>them ...
Well you have access to the Internet, obviously, so the product I use
and recommend is available to you there. Some may consider this
heresy, but I use a product called Perma Shield. It is a polymer
Teflon formula. It gives a glassy VERY high shine and is as easy to
use a regular wax, easier, actually, and lasts for a very long time.
I recently sold a 1993 Nissan Pickup that was a true red, which, as I
sure you know, is a color that normally oxidizes worse than any other.
That truck was never garaged a single day, in a hot, bright inland
Southern California climate. I would put a coat of Perma Shield on the
truck maybe once a year. When I sold it the finish looked like new.
Normally when you wax a red vehicle, even one taken care of fairly
well, you will see some red color on the cloth as it takes off some
oxidized paint. On that Nissan the was simply no red, there was NO
apparent oxidation.
Oh well, I am raving on, sorry. This is one product I would do a
commercial for if asked. And I have NO connection to the company.
If interested you can go to the Perma Shield site at
www.permashield.net.
Good luck with your new car. I am driving a 2004 Sonata LX and could
not be happier with it.
Bob G.
<jcno...@nospam.com> wrote:
>Yep, swiffers for the bi-weekly dusting, plain warm water and a sponge for
>the mild cleaning and Mr. Clean magic eraser for the tough scuffs. No
>soaps!!! I have a 10-year old Caravan and the dash looks brand new still
>(and it is not garaged at home or at work either). Never had soap or
>anything else on it on it but plain water.
>
>
>"kaboom" <
========================
Ok...My wives Dash on her 96 Caravan also looks like new...BUT just
curious how do your headlights look? My wives are SO YELLOW and
cloudy that I have been checking out the price to replace them...!
Armour All gasses out and will leave a thin film on the glass ..real
sob to remove.... I agree on microfiber cloths ....best thing since
old cloth diapers to use on a car....
Bob G.
N8N
Haven't done it myself, although if I'm going to do bodywork on a car
I use dish soap for the first wash to get all the wax off so it doesn't
load up my sandpaper. Maybe a clay bar would be better for a new car
then...?
nate
kaboom
>I was only suggesting it as a one time cleanup, not a regular practice.
> Haven't done it myself, although if I'm going to do bodywork on a car
>I use dish soap for the first wash to get all the wax off so it doesn't
>load up my sandpaper. Maybe a clay bar would be better for a new car
>then...?
**Afternoon, Nate :) I think a clay bar would be good. The clear coat
is actually an extraordinarily thin layer, a detailer described it as:
Imagine Saran Wrap stretched incredibly tightly over your thumb nail.
I don't think cars of today can handle dish soap. Even though I don't
think Harry needs to clay bar as of yet (he should've gotten the car
already detailed), a clay bar is a great idea. I had forgotten about
that, thanks Nate.
kaboomie
Hurricane1000
paint. It's very time consuming and not needed for a brand new vehicle
B. Peg
> Clay Bar is only to be used for cleaning dirt that's imbedded in the
> paint. It's very time consuming and not needed for a brand new vehicle
Not necessarily. My new car (then Saturn) had what they call "Rail Dust" in
the paint. The car had some sort of protective film (Cosmoline?) on it, but
it wasn't enough. The dust kicked up by the train actually imbedded little
metal particles that looked like rust spots in the paint. If left too long,
they would have yellowed the paint around the imbedded particles (white
car). Dealer had to clay and glaze the whole car. No doubt junk falls in
the cars while on the truck car-haulers as well. This is noted in some of
GM's SRs to the dealers as well.
B~
Bernard Farquart
"N8N" <njn...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1125505291.6...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> you shoudn't need to use a cleaner or cleaner wax on a new car. Just
> wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
>
to still think that dish soap is a suitable car wash agent.
Dish soap has harsh detergents in it (to lift grease out of your way)
that are way to harsh to use on your car if you want to have
any sort of wax remain on the paint for more that six or eight car washes.
Use any brand of car wash soap, and use alot of it to lift the dirt
away from the finish as you wash.
Bernard
Jody
"Bernard Farquart" <bernard...@removehotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cvednYGRwPb...@comcast.com...
Motorhead Lawyer
> > >Just
> > >wash it well with dish soap and wax with the wax of your choice.
> It will clean more thoroughly than regular car wash.
You want to tell that to my wife, who *formulates them*?
No; it doesn't clean more thoroughly and it isn't formulated to remove
stuff like bug gutz, manure splatter, & asphalt/tar residue. Just buy
the Kit Car Wash and leave the Dawn in the kitchen.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Who gets it free.)