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How Tight Should an Oil Filter Be? Specific torque?

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sms88

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Apr 11, 2012, 4:02:14 PM4/11/12
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The other day I was changing the oil on a 2007 Camry Hybrid. I could not
get the oil filter off with my TOY640 filter cap wrench. It was too
tight, and it was slipping. The filter was put on with that cap wrench.

I used a fabric strap wrench which was a pain because of the limited
space, but it removed the filter (while crushing it). I put the new
filter on. There's no way to hand tighten it (insufficient space to get
a good grip on it) so I used the cap wrench again.

Is there a specific torque that the filter should be tightened to where
it's tight enough to be secure, but not so tight that it's so difficult
to remove?

Jeff Strickland

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Apr 11, 2012, 5:01:07 PM4/11/12
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"sms88" <scharf...@geemail.com> wrote in message
news:jm4o0g$e9f$1...@dont-email.me...
I've never heard of a specific torque. You're supposed to lubricate the seal
then spin the filter on until the seal contacts the block, then turn 3/4
rotation to seal. You are not supposed to use a wrench to tighten the
filter, although because of heat it may be necessary to use the wrench to
get the filter off.


Message has been deleted

Mr. Austerity

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Apr 11, 2012, 7:03:45 PM4/11/12
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Directions should be on the box the filter came in. Usually something
like oil the gasket with clean oil, screw it on until contact then
another 3/4 turn. I often use my 18 inch channel locks to take them
off, sometimes a strap wrench made from a big box end wrench and some
rope. Watch those sensors, and wires when you remove the filters some
of them can be easily broken. I usually tighten the new filter as much
as I can by hand, I can always get them off with the big channel locks
or the strap wrench.
Here's one that was really stuck,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGZea0w20H0

sms88

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Apr 12, 2012, 2:04:52 AM4/12/12
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On 4/11/2012 5:03 PM, dbu'' wrote:
> In article<jm4rer$4sg$1...@dont-email.me>,
> If you get it too tight you might have a problem getting it off, even
> crushing the filter in the process. That would make it even tougher to
> get off, been there done that. So, hand tight like Jeff says would also
> be my recommendation as well.
>
> I don't mess around with oil changes anymore. My Toyota dealer is very
> competitive with other oil change places as well as doing it myself.
> I'm quite happy with that because I don't have to crawl under the
> vehicle, mess around with dirty oil and disposing of it. It's a win-win
> for me.

The dealers near me have extremely annoying service departments. The
last time I went in for an oil change was the last time I'll go in for
an oil change. I left without the oil change when it became clear they
had no interest in just doing an oil change. Between pushing extremely
overpriced tires, and several other unneeded services, I realized that
they were just too untrustworthy to use them.

In my city we have curbside oil recycling. Normally I can do an oil
change very quickly without getting dirty, but this time the filter was
stubborn.

I can get good oil changes with Toyota filters for $20 if I go to my
mechanic, but it's too far away for oil changes, about 45 miles.
Message has been deleted

Jeff Strickland

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Apr 12, 2012, 12:27:34 PM4/12/12
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"sms88" <scharf...@geemail.com> wrote in message
news:jm5rae$p2k$1...@dont-email.me...
That's SHOCKING! The dealership sells stuff, whoda thunk it!

All you say is, "All I need today is an oil change, thank you." They pull
the free inspection in an attempt to sell stuff, you go home and look at the
stuff they want to fix and decide if it really needs fixing or not, and then
fix it yourself or take the car back. My kid took her Tacoma for something,
and they said she needs front brakes. She knows how to put them on, so she
bought brakes and came home. The old pads had more than 70% of the material
of the new pads, so we did not put them on.

Clearly you have trouble with oil changes because you can't get the filter
off, and you gotta ask what the torque spec is when putting one on. (I've
got two oil filters on the shelf, both have the directions printed on the
side of the can.) How much grip does one need to put 3/4-turn on an oil
filter?

Sorry if I sound harsh, but this is a fundemental life-event, like the sun
rising in the east every morning.




Jeff Strickland

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Apr 12, 2012, 12:30:28 PM4/12/12
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"dbu''" <nos...@nobama.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:lK6dnRI8wOVSnBrS...@giganews.com...
> In article <jm5rae$p2k$1...@dont-email.me>,
> $28 at my Toyota dealer. No muss no fuss and they don't try to sell me
> stuff if it is not needed. They do a complete check before I get my
> vehicle back and a checkoff list. They said my Toyota was good to go.
>

And, they wash the car, don't they? My local carwash does an oil change with
free wash, and my Mazda dealer used to wash my MPV when they changed the
oil.







badgolferman

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Apr 12, 2012, 1:01:24 PM4/12/12
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You can't get your hand in there to tighten the filter but want to use
a torque wrench? If there's enough room to get a cap wrench in there
then there ought to be enough room to get fingers around it.
Tightening an oil filter is not that hard. Removing one is much
harder, especially if you have a heat shield blocking it like my last
two Toyotas have. I removed those heat shields permanently after the
first oil change.

Asbjørn

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Apr 12, 2012, 1:18:34 PM4/12/12
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"badgolferman" <REMOVETHISb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:xn0hwr8k...@reader.albasani.net...
Tighten 3/4 turn after the seal touch the base, that is written on the
filters here.

Asbjørn



Mark

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Apr 12, 2012, 4:27:29 PM4/12/12
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I never tighten them with a wrench, only as tight as I can get by hand
with reasonable effort and relatively clean hands for a good grip.
None have ever loosened on me (hundreds of oil changes in the last 30+
years), and all require the cap wrench to remove the dirty filter.

I've saved thousands of dollars doing my own (4 cars) and I know they
are done right. I don't need some idiot forgetting to tighten the
drain plug or overfilling the oil.
Message has been deleted
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SMS

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Apr 12, 2012, 8:42:36 PM4/12/12
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On 4/12/2012 9:24 AM, dbu'' wrote:

<snip>

> $28 at my Toyota dealer. No muss no fuss and they don't try to sell me
> stuff if it is not needed. They do a complete check before I get my
> vehicle back and a checkoff list. They said my Toyota was good to go.
>
> Maybe you should move.

Perhaps. Actually the dealers around here routinely have coupons for
under $25, I've seen as low as $18.88. Considering that a Toyota filter
costs $4 on sale, and a 5 quart jug of 5W20 conventional oil is about
$13, I'd certainly have no issue spending $25 if a dealer could do it
quickly and correctly. But they can't. Or they won't.

Maybe they could simply have a higher price if they don't spend fifteen
minutes trying to sell you stuff. Kind of like what's happening now in
China with organized tours--some operators are advertising tours with
"no forced shopping" while the less expensive tours basically take you
from one over-priced store to the next, claiming they are "factory
visits (silk factory, jade factory, etc.), and threaten you if you
refuse to buy. <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFABhVqCUTw>.
Message has been deleted

Mark

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Apr 13, 2012, 11:34:15 AM4/13/12
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I have no doubt that the Toyota dealer is a cut above your average
Jiffy Lube. I once had a Honda with an impossible-to-reach filter and
had an experience similar to yours before it started going to the
dealer.

However, I also value my time and the gas to get back and forth to the
dealer. The average driveway/garage oil change requires ten minutes
of my time, and driving to the dealer alone takes more time than
that. I also let the oil drain overnight to get as much old oil out
as possible.



On Apr 12, 7:35 pm, dbu'' <nos...@nobama.com.invalid> wrote:
> In article
> <4e00146a-fa7a-40f9-aad9-d9f97785d...@f5g2000vbt.googlegroups.com>,
>
>  Mark <bogusmailm...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I never tighten them with a wrench, only as tight as I can get by hand
> > with reasonable effort and relatively clean hands for a good grip.
> > None have ever loosened on me (hundreds of oil changes in the last 30+
> > years), and all require the cap wrench to remove the dirty filter.
>
> > I've saved thousands of dollars doing my own (4 cars) and I know they
> > are done right.  I don't need some idiot forgetting to tighten the
> > drain plug or overfilling the oil.
>
> Years ago I took my 89 Camry to a non dealer oil change operation.  On
> the way back to work I smelled burned oil, pulled over and found the oil
> filler cap off, oil all over the engine compartment, a mess.  I went
> back of course, but never went back after that episode.
>
> I've never had a bad experience at my Toyota dealer with service.
> They are very good and I would highly recommend them to anyone.
>
>
>
> > On Apr 11, 4:02 pm, sms88 <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> > > The other day I was changing the oil on a 2007 Camry Hybrid. I could not
> > > get the oil filter off with my TOY640 filter cap wrench. It was too
> > > tight, and it was slipping. The filter was put on with that cap wrench.
>
> > > I used a fabric strap wrench which was a pain because of the limited
> > > space, but it removed the filter (while crushing it). I put the new
> > > filter on. There's no way to hand tighten it (insufficient space to get
> > > a good grip on it) so I used the cap wrench again.
>
> > > Is there a specific torque that the filter should be tightened to where
> > > it's tight enough to be secure, but not so tight that it's so difficult
> > > to remove?
>
> --

Mark

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Apr 13, 2012, 11:41:51 AM4/13/12
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Oops, I'm sorry, it was the **dealership** mechanic that forgot to
tighten the drain plug fully on that Honda ~13 years ago. I chewed
them out pretty good for that one. Incompetence can occur anywhere,
and dealerships are little more than licensed thieves IMHO. Hence I
avoid them whenever possible but do stop by to purchase Toyota filters
and wiper inserts from the parts desk.

The other incident was an overfilled situation at a Quick-Change after
I had just moved to another city and wasn't yet set up to do my own
oil changes (25 years ago). Never again.
> > --- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Jeff Strickland

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Apr 13, 2012, 12:10:35 PM4/13/12
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"Mark" <bogusm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d95bdae0-8006-4da9...@gh10g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
I have no doubt that the Toyota dealer is a cut above your average
Jiffy Lube. I once had a Honda with an impossible-to-reach filter and
had an experience similar to yours before it started going to the
dealer.

However, I also value my time and the gas to get back and forth to the
dealer. The average driveway/garage oil change requires ten minutes
of my time, and driving to the dealer alone takes more time than
that. I also let the oil drain overnight to get as much old oil out
as possible.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You let the oil drain OVER NIGHT?! What a complete waste of time and effort,
especially if the oil is already warmed up.

If you are starting the car for a few seconds to get it onto the ramps and
then shutting down and pulling the plug, then that is a problem because you
should be draining oil that is up to operating temp OR is cold. If the oil
is at operating temp, then anything that is in it is suspended and will come
out with the main flow -- and if your filter is worth anything at all, there
will be nothing suspended because the filter will have captured it.

Drive to the store, buy some oil and a filter. Drive home and park on the
ramps. Drain the oil, replace the filter, put the plug back in and fill the
crankcase with fresh oil. There is absolutely nothing gained by waiting over
night for "as much as possible" to drip out. Seriously, if you are waiting
for drips to stop, and replacing the drops with 5 quarts of new oil, do you
have any idea how much any possible contaminants will be dilluted? And, if
your filter actually does its job, then it will collect anything that is
still suspended in the small amount of remaining oil.

And, it is a little bit confusing when you state in one sentence that it
takes ten minutes, and in the next you say it takes over night.






badgolferman

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Apr 13, 2012, 1:22:02 PM4/13/12
to
I understand Mark's message as saying he lets the oil drain from the
top of the engine down to the oil pan. Leaving the vehicle on ramps
overnight and then taking ten minutes to change the oil doesn't seem
like a big deal to me and is probably a good way to go about it.
Message has been deleted
Message has been deleted

Mark

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Apr 13, 2012, 2:04:30 PM4/13/12
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Ten minutes of total effort spread over a 12-hour period, typically.
I don't use ramps, don't need to. And I always change the oil when
the car is warm. It may be a waste of time to you to let it drain
overnight, but I've seen up to an extra 1/4-1/3 of a quart of dirty
oil drain as a result. It may not be a huge benefit, but it costs no
extra time or effort and it certainly does no harm.


On Apr 13, 12:10 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrj...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> "Mark" <bogusmailm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

Jeff Strickland

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Apr 13, 2012, 2:09:29 PM4/13/12
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"badgolferman" <REMOVETHISb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:xn0hwsnn...@reader.albasani.net...
DUH! I didn't read it like that, but it makes sense if that is what he does.
It's still not necessary to wait that long for the oil to drain down, but if
one looks at this as you did instead of as I did, it makes more sense.



Mark

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Apr 13, 2012, 2:06:29 PM4/13/12
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Duh, I leave the hood up as a reminder that the oil is being
changed... and no ramps are involved.


On Apr 13, 1:33 pm, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <el...@nastydesigns.com>
wrote:
> In article <jm9j5m$87...@dont-email.me>,
>  "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrj...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Mark" <bogusmailm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> My first thought was, imagine something happening in the middle of the
> night and somebody jumps in the car without thinking and starts it up to
> take care of some emergency.
>
> Now, if it's on ramps, that's not likely.
>
> But if the house is on fire, and the car's on ramps, AND the oil is out
> of it...just walk away and watch it burn.- Hide quoted text -

SMS

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Apr 13, 2012, 2:56:14 PM4/13/12
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On 4/13/2012 8:34 AM, Mark wrote:
> I have no doubt that the Toyota dealer is a cut above your average
> Jiffy Lube. I once had a Honda with an impossible-to-reach filter and
> had an experience similar to yours before it started going to the
> dealer.
>
> However, I also value my time and the gas to get back and forth to the
> dealer. The average driveway/garage oil change requires ten minutes
> of my time, and driving to the dealer alone takes more time than
> that. I also let the oil drain overnight to get as much old oil out
> as possible.

That's one reason I do it myself. The time it takes to drive back and
forth to the dealer plus the waiting time, is far longer than the
cumulative time it takes to do it myself. This specific car is somewhat
of a paid because you can't grab the oil filter with your hand to
tighten it, the cap wrench is perfect. Well if I remove all the plastic
covers on the bottom of the vehicle (one of which has an hole where the
oil filter is located) then I could probably get a grip on the filter.
But that involves a lot of unscrewing and popping out of those fragile
plastic fasteners.

Also, I let the oil drain for a lot longer than the dealer ever would.

Our curbside oil recycling makes disposing of the old oil easy. From
driving through the neighborhood on garbage day I realize that very very
few people are changing their own oil anymore. Of course all of our
city's car dealers are long gone, the last one replaced by a ginormous
Whole Foods store.

SMS

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Apr 13, 2012, 3:02:43 PM4/13/12
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On 4/13/2012 8:41 AM, Mark wrote:
> Oops, I'm sorry, it was the **dealership** mechanic that forgot to
> tighten the drain plug fully on that Honda ~13 years ago. I chewed
> them out pretty good for that one. Incompetence can occur anywhere,
> and dealerships are little more than licensed thieves IMHO. Hence I
> avoid them whenever possible but do stop by to purchase Toyota filters
> and wiper inserts from the parts desk.

I question trusting my vehicle to a dealer whose service writers engage
in some of the practices I've witnessed. The dishonesty is indicative of
the way the dealer operates across the board.

The #1 indicator that you should take your car and get away is when they
try to sell you an engine flush, or as Click and Clack once called it,
"the Bilstein R-2000 Wallet Flush System."

Mr. Austerity

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Apr 13, 2012, 5:59:38 PM4/13/12
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Sometimes it takes me two or three years to do a 10 minute job.
Message has been deleted
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homepc

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Apr 14, 2012, 9:38:46 AM4/14/12
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>
> Sometimes it takes me two or three years to do a 10 minute job.


Now that's priceless!

Message has been deleted

Michael Dobony

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Apr 14, 2012, 6:07:53 PM4/14/12
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On Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:03:36 -0600, dbu'' wrote:

> In article <jm4rer$4sg$1...@dont-email.me>,
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwl...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> "sms88" <scharf...@geemail.com> wrote in message
>> news:jm4o0g$e9f$1...@dont-email.me...
>>> The other day I was changing the oil on a 2007 Camry Hybrid. I could not
>>> get the oil filter off with my TOY640 filter cap wrench. It was too tight,
>>> and it was slipping. The filter was put on with that cap wrench.
>>>
>>> I used a fabric strap wrench which was a pain because of the limited
>>> space, but it removed the filter (while crushing it). I put the new filter
>>> on. There's no way to hand tighten it (insufficient space to get a good
>>> grip on it) so I used the cap wrench again.
>>>
>>> Is there a specific torque that the filter should be tightened to where
>>> it's tight enough to be secure, but not so tight that it's so difficult to
>>> remove?
>>
>> I've never heard of a specific torque. You're supposed to lubricate the seal
>> then spin the filter on until the seal contacts the block, then turn 3/4
>> rotation to seal. You are not supposed to use a wrench to tighten the
>> filter, although because of heat it may be necessary to use the wrench to
>> get the filter off.
>
> If you get it too tight you might have a problem getting it off, even
> crushing the filter in the process. That would make it even tougher to
> get off, been there done that. So, hand tight like Jeff says would also
> be my recommendation as well.
>
> I don't mess around with oil changes anymore. My Toyota dealer is very
> competitive with other oil change places as well as doing it myself.
> I'm quite happy with that because I don't have to crawl under the
> vehicle, mess around with dirty oil and disposing of it. It's a win-win
> for me.
>

I never let anyone else do my oil changes because of the OP's issue, along
with cross-threading the drain plug and overfilling by a full quart. That
about covers half of the times I had someone else do my oil changes. No
thank you.

Michael Dobony

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Apr 14, 2012, 6:17:14 PM4/14/12
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Looks like ObamaDoesn'tCare to me.

Michael Dobony

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Apr 14, 2012, 6:17:44 PM4/14/12
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On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 21:32:16 -0400, Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:

> In article <4f877684$0$16148$742e...@news.sonic.net>,
> SMS <scharf...@geemail.com> wrote:
>
>> Kind of like what's happening now in
>> China with organized tours--some operators are advertising tours with
>> "no forced shopping" while the less expensive tours basically take you
>> from one over-priced store to the next, claiming they are "factory
>> visits (silk factory, jade factory, etc.), and threaten you if you
>> refuse to buy. <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFABhVqCUTw>.
>
> Just like cruises.

??????
Been on 2 cruises. Never saw anything like that.

Michael Dobony

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Apr 14, 2012, 6:24:30 PM4/14/12
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On Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:03:45 -0500, Mr. Austerity wrote:

> sms88 wrote:
>> The other day I was changing the oil on a 2007 Camry Hybrid. I could not
>> get the oil filter off with my TOY640 filter cap wrench. It was too
>> tight, and it was slipping. The filter was put on with that cap wrench.
>>
>> I used a fabric strap wrench which was a pain because of the limited
>> space, but it removed the filter (while crushing it). I put the new
>> filter on. There's no way to hand tighten it (insufficient space to get
>> a good grip on it) so I used the cap wrench again.
>>
>> Is there a specific torque that the filter should be tightened to where
>> it's tight enough to be secure, but not so tight that it's so difficult
>> to remove?
>
> Directions should be on the box the filter came in. Usually something
> like oil the gasket with clean oil, screw it on until contact then
> another 3/4 turn. I often use my 18 inch channel locks to take them
> off, sometimes a strap wrench made from a big box end wrench and some
> rope. Watch those sensors, and wires when you remove the filters some
> of them can be easily broken. I usually tighten the new filter as much
> as I can by hand, I can always get them off with the big channel locks
> or the strap wrench.
> Here's one that was really stuck,
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGZea0w20H0

Looks like my filter after the dealer changed the oil for me.

Tekkie®

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Apr 16, 2012, 9:49:03 AM4/16/12
to
dbu'' posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

> The Toyota dealership I go to is like a military operation.
>
> I keep going back. It's great.
>

What? They shoot at you or form an offensive position?

I guess they keep missing...

--
Tekkie

SMS

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Apr 17, 2012, 1:43:55 PM4/17/12
to
On 4/11/2012 4:03 PM, Mr. Austerity wrote:

> Watch those sensors, and wires when you remove the filters some of them
> can be easily broken. I usually tighten the new filter as much as I can
> by hand, I can always get them off with the big channel locks or the
> strap wrench.
> Here's one that was really stuck,
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGZea0w20H0

Wow.

I have never been unable to remove a filter with a strap wrench. None of
the methods he tried prior to cutting open the filter provided as tight
a grip, and as much actual contact area with the filter body, as a strap
wrench. Cap wrenches are fine if the filter isn't very tight, but they
don't grip well. The chain wrench looks impressive, but you don't get
the friction that you get with a strap wrench.

Michael

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Apr 17, 2012, 5:39:47 PM4/17/12
to
And... which military? Napoleon's military didn't do so great at
Waterloo.

w.t...@gmail.com

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Sep 29, 2013, 11:32:51 AM9/29/13
to
On Wednesday, April 11, 2012 4:02:14 PM UTC-4, sms88 wrote:
> The other day I was changing the oil on a 2007 Camry Hybrid. I could not
>
> get the oil filter off with my TOY640 filter cap wrench. It was too
>
> tight, and it was slipping. The filter was put on with that cap wrench.
>
>
>
> I used a fabric strap wrench which was a pain because of the limited
>
> space, but it removed the filter (while crushing it). I put the new
>
> filter on. There's no way to hand tighten it (insufficient space to get
>
> a good grip on it) so I used the cap wrench again.
>
>
>
> Is there a specific torque that the filter should be tightened to where
>
> it's tight enough to be secure, but not so tight that it's so difficult
>
> to remove?

The Toyota oil filter box lists the torque as 10 ft lbs

Jeff Strickland

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Sep 29, 2013, 1:10:11 PM9/29/13
to

<w.t...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b3b38621-e8a1-43d1...@googlegroups.com...
The way to install an oil filter is 1.) printed on the filter, and 2.) has
no "specific" torque.

Open the box.
Take the filter out.
Use your finger to spread fresh motor oil around the gasket.
Spin the filter on until the gasket touches the block.
Turn the filter an additional 3/4-turn.
Clean up the mess you made.





w.t...@gmail.com

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Sep 29, 2013, 4:03:22 PM9/29/13
to

w.t...@gmail.com

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Sep 29, 2013, 4:09:32 PM9/29/13
to

The Toyota genuine parts box has the instructions on how to install the oil filter. It specifies 9.5 +- 2 ft-lbs torque. And while you are at it the oil drain plug is specified as 30 ft-lbs and the wheel lug nuts (assuming you rotate the tires when changing the oil is 80 ft-lbs. I was taught to rebuild engines by Germans, you use a torque wrench on everything. My Honda also has the oil filter torque specified.

jcs...@gmail.com

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Dec 26, 2015, 7:35:08 PM12/26/15
to
What is the torque spec for a 05 accord 4 cylinder and an 01 5.0 chev for the oil filter

NotMe

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Dec 27, 2015, 11:23:08 AM12/27/15
to

<jcs...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ecf60003-c4d6-4224...@googlegroups.com...
> What is the torque spec for a 05 accord 4 cylinder and an 01 5.0 chev
> for the oil filter

Tight enough that you need a tool to get it off.

Or as my dad would say 'bout this much' as he popped the cap on a cold beer
with a hand operated church key...


nm...@wt.net

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Dec 29, 2015, 6:31:14 PM12/29/15
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On Saturday, December 26, 2015 at 6:35:08 PM UTC-6, jcs...@gmail.com wrote:
> What is the torque spec for a 05 accord 4 cylinder and an 01 5.0 chev for the oil filter

Most all oil filters should have the gasket oiled, and applied only
hand tight. Even with hand tightness, after being on the car for 5000 or
so miles will usually require the filter tool to remove it.
BTW, ALWAYS check for leaks at the filter and oil plug after starting
the engine.


Asbjorn

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Jan 9, 2016, 11:53:27 AM1/9/16
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skrev i nyhetsmeldingen:
af4a8683-44a2-4831...@googlegroups.com ...
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For tightening oil filters, torque is way too inaccurate a measure, as it
will depend on the temperatures, cleaning and lubrication of the surfaces.
What counts is the axial compression of the seal (O-ring), which through the
thread pitch is conveniently transferred to the twisting angle when
tightening the filter.
My Toyota oil filters are clearly labelled with the instruction to tighten
3/4 turn more from when the seal just starts being compressed.
That is usually done by hands only.
The seal shall be lubricated before mounting, which original filters
normally are.

Asbjørn

julian.rami...@gmail.com

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Jun 28, 2017, 3:01:54 PM6/28/17
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On Sunday, September 29, 2013 at 1:09:32 PM UTC-7, w.t...@gmail.com wrote:
> The Toyota genuine parts box has the instructions on how to install the oil filter. It specifies 9.5 +- 2 ft-lbs torque. And while you are at it the oil drain plug is specified as 30 ft-lbs and the wheel lug nuts (assuming you rotate the tires when changing the oil is 80 ft-lbs. I was taught to rebuild engines by Germans, you use a torque wrench on everything. My Honda also has the oil filter torque specified.
>
Thanks for the specs! I prefer to use the torque wrench for everything as well
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