Crappy Toyota Corolla speakers
edspyhill01
sound in the rear speakers. The front speakers can't handle much
sound. Are there any howtos, etc that discuss redoing the speaker
and radio system in a Corolla so the sound is more in the front
speakers and is full range?
Sharx335
"edspyhill01" <edspy...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a3591d56-9b64-4f8f...@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
Buy a Camry--the sound is much better and is fully adjustable
between all speakers. In the meantime, RTFM!!!
edspyhill01
> "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Nope, had a Camry, same problem. Toyota sets up there sound systems
like early '60's cars with most of the sound in the back speakers for
trunk bass. If you attempt to move the balance to the front speakers
you get a thin sound. In the meantime, STFU, moose schtupper.
So, anybody here WITH A BRAIN have any advice?
JoeSpareBedroom
news:a3591d56-9b64-4f8f...@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
Does it appear that you have the same size round speakers in the front and
the back?
edspyhill01
wrote:
> "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
No. The front speakers are smaller and are low in the front door
panels. The car doesn't seem have the small tweeters higher in the
dash under the windshield. I'll go over to Crutchfield and see if
they have anything, and also search the web. The main problem is my
mother-in-law is with us in the car a lot of times and when I raise
the volume to hear in the passenger seat, the sound blasts in the
back. (Mother-in-law is a whole 'nuther discussion.) Thanks.
JoeSpareBedroom
=============
1) Your story suggests that you have no front-to-rear fader on the radio,
which is pretty much impossible in a modern car. Even cheap OEM radios have
faders.
2) In order to get decent sound in front, you'll obviously need to upgrade
the speakers, but better speakers are almost always inefficient, so your
radio will puke away what little power it has trying to kick those speakers.
So, you'll need to upgrade the radio to one which has line outputs, so it
can run at least a small amplifier which will make the new speakers happy.
Another option is a radio with more internal power, but power ratings are
almost always fabricated. 25 watts x 4 channels? Read the fine print and
it's more like 10 watts (of actual clean power) for each of 4 channels. This
is why external amps are a better idea.
Crutchfield is a good place to start for information. And historically,
Alpine has *tended to* set up only dealers who know what they're doing, do
you should check http://www.alpine-usa.com/ for a local dealer and pay a
visit.
JoeSpareBedroom
news:ijrd61$bpu$4...@nntpd.databasix.com...
> On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:29:14 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"
> <news...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>>"edspyhill01" <edspy...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:38045c6b-6c5a-48a7...@o7g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
>>On Feb 20, 9:47 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" <newstr...@frontiernet.net>
>>wrote:
>>> "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>> news:a3591d56-9b64-4f8f...@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>> > My wife's 2003 Corolla has a typical Toyota sound system with all the
>>> > sound in the rear speakers. The front speakers can't handle much
>>> > sound. Are there any howtos, etc that discuss redoing the speaker
>>> > and radio system in a Corolla so the sound is more in the front
>>> > speakers and is full range?
>>>
>>> Does it appear that you have the same size round speakers in the front
>>> and
>>> the back?
>>
>>No. The front speakers are smaller and are low in the front door
>>panels. The car doesn't seem have the small tweeters higher in the
>>dash under the windshield.
>
>
> did.
>
Did *any* Toyota ever have tweeters in the dash, as he's asking about? I
thought that became (or should've become) illegal after years of GM's
hideous experiments with that arrangement.
Ray O
If adjusting the fader to the front and boosting the bass doesn't work,
Crutchfield is a good place for research, fit, and how-tos, then with the
research done, shop around for prices.
I'd start with upgrading the front speakers and playing with the fader, if
that doesn't sound good enough, replace the rear speakers, then replace the
radio, in that order. Aftermarket radios tend to be magnets for thieves, so
I prefer to stick with the factory radio since nobody with brains wants to
risk going to jail for one. If you opt for a replacement radio, get the
harness adapter so you don't have to cut any wires and so you can put the
factory radio back in and keep the upgraded radio when you replace the car.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Ray O
"JoeSpareBedroom" <news...@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:Isb8p.12653$Y63....@newsfe02.iad...
Most of the Toyotas with tweeters had them in the front doors where the rear
view mirrors mount.
What was wrong with GM's arrangement?
JoeSpareBedroom
news:ijrjco$74o$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
It sounded hideous, unless you were deaf or thought Hostess Twinkies were
fine pastries. No sane person liked GM's 3-1/2" speakers in the dashboard.
Ray O
So the poor sound quality was due to the quality of the speakers more than
the placement of the speakers in the dash?
By the way, Hostess Twinkies are fine pastries and pair well with Mountain
Dew & red licorice on road trips ;-)
edspyhill01
> "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Thank you for advising. If my memory is correct it iss the sport
version of the 2003 Corolla - there were 2 versions, cheap and
"loaded". It should have a 6-speaker system in it. The radio has a
CD player and a cassette player. I've never heard sound in the front
higher then the lower front door speakers. I tried using the faders,
and left/right works and I think front/back works to some extent.
I've learned never to trust my testing results while my wife is
driving because the car is the noisiest car I've ever rode in.
What would be very helpful is to recommend a Toyota manual or
instructions with troubleshooting flows so I can verify the number of
speakers, the location. Manuals do not have to be free and I would
prefer a toyota publication. I want to avoid dropping it off at the
dealer if there is a way for me to just fix the speakers replace the
audio unit.
Sharx335
"edspyhill01" <edspy...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:38045c6b-6c5a-48a7...@o7g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
This is ONE case where my empathy is for your poor, suffering
MinLaw. Well, she WARNED her daughter what would lay ahead--she
gave her daughter a magnifying glass, the better to see what
minuscule treasures her intended had.
Sharx335
"Ray O" <roki...@NOSPAMcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:ijrj6h$4f4$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
There problem lies NOT with the source of the sound, it lies with
THEIR deficient hearing. 1. They should have their hearing
checked...at various frequencies; but before that, to have their
ear canals thoroughly flushed out--years of wax, cum, earwigs,
cooties, etc. certainly will have taken their toll.
JoeSpareBedroom
It was both factors. You knew that, though.
JoeSpareBedroom
===========
No manual is needed in order to verify the number of existing speakers. If
you see grills, there are speakers. One speaker behind each grill. To the
best of my knowledge, Toyota never did dumb stuff like hiding speakers
behind perforated soft door panels. Just grills.
larry moe 'n curly
edspyhill01 wrote:
It's easier to make rear speakers loud because they mount in a much
bigger box (the trunk).
The factory manual:
http://pdftown.com/2004-Toyota-Corolla-Service-Manual.html
Do you mean the front speakers distort when the volume is turned up?
That could mean torn cones or, in the case of woofers, cone surround
suspensions, but the power amplifiers can develop shorted output
transistors (some designs can still put out some sound without them)
or bad bootstrap capacitors. Unfortunately the transistors are
usually inside big hybrid chips and can't be replaced separately, but
bootstrap caps are outside and are generic parts.
If the front speakers have always been bad, maybe you need to install
bigger ones. It doesn't seem the factory mounting allows this for the
doors, but can you cut new holes in the door panels to mount some
farther back? OTOH tweeters can go anywhere. BTW, don't add speakers
in parallel or the amplifiers can be overloaded.
Crutchfield isn't cheap, but they're really good, especially if you
want a drop-in upgrade.
edspyhill01
> "Ray O" <rokig...@NOSPAMcomcast.net> wrote in message
>
> news:ijrj6h$4f4$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, you are a 14 year old transvestite with a bad case of acne.
edspyhill01
>
> - Show quoted text -
Are you saving for a sex change operation? I hope earning the money
doesn't envolve you doing the chicken hawk stuff on the street.
edspyhill01
wrote:
> edspyhill01 wrote:
> > My wife's 2003 Corolla has a typical Toyota sound system with all the
> > sound in the rear speakers. The front speakers can't handle much
> > sound. Are there any howtos, etc that discuss redoing the speaker
> > and radio system in a Corolla so the sound is more in the front
> > speakers and is full range?
>
> It's easier to make rear speakers loud because they mount in a much
> bigger box (the trunk).
>
> The factory manual:
>
> http://pdftown.com/2004-Toyota-Corolla-Service-Manual.html
>
> Do you mean the front speakers distort when the volume is turned up?
> That could mean torn cones or, in the case of woofers, cone surround
> suspensions, but the power amplifiers can develop shorted output
> transistors (some designs can still put out some sound without them)
> or bad bootstrap capacitors. Unfortunately the transistors are
> usually inside big hybrid chips and can't be replaced separately, but
> bootstrap caps are outside and are generic parts.
>
I never heard music from the small grills near the dash. the music
from the speakers in the front doors just sound like they have a freq
response of about 10k - 12K.
If I can verify all 6 speakers are wired and working I'll buy a new
radio. I told her to buy a Honda.
Daniel who wants to know
Subject: Re: Crappy Toyota Corolla speakers
Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011 09:29
1) Your story suggests that you have no front-to-rear fader on the radio,
which is pretty much impossible in a modern car. Even cheap OEM radios have
faders.
2) In order to get decent sound in front, you'll obviously need to upgrade
the speakers, but better speakers are almost always inefficient, so your
radio will puke away what little power it has trying to kick those speakers.
So, you'll need to upgrade the radio to one which has line outputs, so it
can run at least a small amplifier which will make the new speakers happy.
Another option is a radio with more internal power, but power ratings are
almost always fabricated. 25 watts x 4 channels? Read the fine print and
it's more like 10 watts (of actual clean power) for each of 4 channels. This
is why external amps are a better idea.
Crutchfield is a good place to start for information. And historically,
Alpine has *tended to* set up only dealers who know what they're doing, do
you should check http://www.alpine-usa.com/ for a local dealer and pay a
visit.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here is how it works, head units don't have internal power supplies to boost
the voltage so the power for the output stage comes directly from the 12V
bus. Given a common BTL setup (8 channel amp IC internally bridged to 4)
you have a full H bridge and can theoretically supply up to the B+ input
voltage across the voice coils either positive or negative. Of course with
the thin OE wiring and Vce or Rds of the amp it will be less.
If you send an unclipped sine wave to the speaker you can send up to
14.4x.707 or 10.18 volts AC RMS to the load. 10.18 squared divided by 4
ohms is 25.9 watts RMS. This assumes no voltage drop in the wiring, the
head unit's internal power filter inductor, and the output transistors. At 2
volts lost you are down to 19.2 watts @4 ohms. Engine off assuming 12.5
volts and 2 volts lost you are talking 13.8 watts. All of these are
per-channel. Head units with a MOSFET final will have a lower voltage drop
hence slightly more power.
FWIW Fords single DIN head units from the late 80s early 90s were single
ended output instead of BTL hence the output voltage was halved and the
power was quartered. The premium sound and JBL amplifier options took the
SE output and used it as an input for a BTL amp. The JBL subwoofer option
had a bass amp with an internal power supply and did about 85 watts @ 2
ohms.
nm...@wt.net
"front" oriented, but it's a fairly even balance. I've found
the best f/b balance is at the factory center notch..
My fronts seem to handle all the volume I can crank up, so
maybe your front speakers are just wore out. You can crank
mine to ear bleed levels and there is no obvious distortion
from any of the speakers.
So if they can't handle much power without distortion, I'd
say you need new front speakers. No point in messing with a
new radio unless you need more power.
Sharx335
<nm...@wt.net> wrote in message
news:3fe62e77-1db7-48f2...@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
But WHY would anyone WANT to crank their car stereo volume to "ear
bleed" levels?
To do so, immediately brands one as: 1. an idiot 2. a ricer 3. a
gangsta 4. a gangbanger 5. deaf 6. someone insecure about
their choice of "music", e.g. the more bass emphasized, the
stupider the person is.
Hachiroku ハチロク
I'd start with the speakers. Gee, I DO start with the speakers.
Stock speakers are adequate; the ones that came in the Scion were just OK,
and they were Pioneer. If you're not afraid to tear your car apart, it's
not hard.
However, 6.5 MB Quarts in the front, the sound is amazing, even with the
stock radio. I pulled it a couple years ago and put in a JVC with a built
in EQ and get quite decent sound.
THe Quarts were $45, and the JVC was $28, all on eBay.
Hachiroku ハチロク
THat's about the same setup I have in the Scion (I dl'd the manual).
Leave the upper front tweeters alone, they function just fine. You can
remove the door panels and replace the speakers. You can buy an adapter
for what size speaker you want. I found a templace and cut them out of
3/4" pressboard. In the Scion the 6.5's fit just fine. It's not that hard;
I don't know how old you are but I just did it 4-5 years ago, and I'm over
50. The rears are different. In the Scion they're located in the sides;
the back package shelf should be easy. You can remove the deck and get
access to the speakers no problem.
Hachiroku ハチロク
Um, oh yeah. I forgot...the speakers are RIVETED into the door panels! I
don't know who the genius was that came up with that; you have to drill
out the rivets, and I replaced them with regular nuts, mounted the
adapters and then mounted the speakers.
nm...@wt.net
I don't use earbleed levels. But I run it pretty loud at times.
Why? Because the original music was loud when it was recorded,
and I like realism in audio.
I don't do "rap", and I ain't no gansta, ricer, or even deaf yet.
I'm just saying I "can" crank mine to earbleed levels without
noticeable distortion, which can give him an indication if his
front speakers are shot. If he can't do that without distortion or
rattling, they are shot.
As far as stupid.. Well, never mind.. I guess I won't go
there being as this is a family group and all.. :/
edspyhill01
> <n...@wt.net> wrote in message
Don't even consider playing bass.
JoeSpareBedroom
news:ijsnsf$qq1$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
That's a very nice essay, Daniel. Jeez.
edspyhill01
> From: "JoeSpareBedroom" <newstr...@frontiernet.net>
> Subject: Re: Crappy Toyota Corolla speakers
> Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011 09:29
>
> 1) Your story suggests that you have no front-to-rear fader on the radio,
> which is pretty much impossible in a modern car. Even cheap OEM radios have
> faders.
>
> 2) In order to get decent sound in front, you'll obviously need to upgrade
> the speakers, but better speakers are almost always inefficient, so your
> radio will puke away what little power it has trying to kick those speakers.
> So, you'll need to upgrade the radio to one which has line outputs, so it
> can run at least a small amplifier which will make the new speakers happy.
> Another option is a radio with more internal power, but power ratings are
> almost always fabricated. 25 watts x 4 channels? Read the fine print and
> it's more like 10 watts (of actual clean power) for each of 4 channels. This
> is why external amps are a better idea.
>
> Crutchfield is a good place to start for information. And historically,
> Alpine has *tended to* set up only dealers who know what they're doing, do
> visit.
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Here is how it works, head units don't have internal power supplies to boost
> the voltage so the power for the output stage comes directly from the 12V
> bus. Given a common BTL setup (8 channel amp IC internally bridged to 4)
> you have a full H bridge and can theoretically supply up to the B+ input
> voltage across the voice coils either positive or negative. Of course with
> the thin OE wiring and Vce or Rds of the amp it will be less.
>
> If you send an unclipped sine wave to the speaker you can send up to
> 14.4x.707 or 10.18 volts AC RMS to the load. 10.18 squared divided by 4
> ohms is 25.9 watts RMS. This assumes no voltage drop in the wiring, the
> head unit's internal power filter inductor, and the output transistors. At 2
> volts lost you are down to 19.2 watts @4 ohms. Engine off assuming 12.5
> volts and 2 volts lost you are talking 13.8 watts. All of these are
> per-channel. Head units with a MOSFET final will have a lower voltage drop
> hence slightly more power.
>
> FWIW Fords single DIN head units from the late 80s early 90s were single
> ended output instead of BTL hence the output voltage was halved and the
> power was quartered. The premium sound and JBL amplifier options took the
> SE output and used it as an input for a BTL amp. The JBL subwoofer option
> had a bass amp with an internal power supply and did about 85 watts @ 2
> ohms.
I think the best plan is to replace the speakers and the audio unit.
The Toyota radio seems to be tuned with the "zero back/front setting
foe 60/40 back/front. Thanks. Ed
JoeSpareBedroom
> On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:39:06 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"
> <news...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>>"Gary L. Burnore" <gbur...@databasix.com> wrote in message
>>news:ijrd61$bpu$4...@nntpd.databasix.com...
>>> On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:29:14 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"
>>> <news...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>news:38045c6b-6c5a-48a7...@o7g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
>>>>On Feb 20, 9:47 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" <newstr...@frontiernet.net>
>>>>wrote:
>>>>> "edspyhill01" <edspyhil...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>
>>>>> news:a3591d56-9b64-4f8f...@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>
>>>>> > the
>>>>> > sound in the rear speakers. The front speakers can't handle much
>>>>> > sound. Are there any howtos, etc that discuss redoing the speaker
>>>>> > and radio system in a Corolla so the sound is more in the front
>>>>> > speakers and is full range?
>>>>>
>>>>> and
>>>>> the back?
>>>>
>>>>No. The front speakers are smaller and are low in the front door
>>>>panels. The car doesn't seem have the small tweeters higher in the
>>>>dash under the windshield.
>>>
>>>
>>> did.
>>>
>>
>>
>>Did *any* Toyota ever have tweeters in the dash, as he's asking about?
>
> ES300 Lexus has them
>
>
>> I
>>thought that became (or should've become) illegal after years of GM's
>>hideous experiments with that arrangement.
>
3-1/2" piece of shit speakers facing up at the windshield. A few companies
(Jensen, Alpine et al) made so-called upgrade replacements, but they all
sucked. Customers would come to my store ready to spend large bucks to
improve the sound in the front, but we'd often find it was impossible to
install anything worthwhile in the doors of GM cars. Or, they'd be people
with Corvettes and they didn't want any custom cutting. Everything had to
fit in existing holes. The only way to put anything of quality in the dash
was to use REAL tweeters from companies like ADS, but that still sucked
because tweeters sound best when they're at least in the same neighborhood
as the mid-range speakers.
Some GM cars had 4x6 oval speakers in the dash. Even more stupid than the
3-1/2s. Oval speakers are practically worthless. 6x9s are passable just due
to their size, which overcomes some of their sins. But not 4x6s.
JoeSpareBedroom
> --
I must've installed over 1000 systems in cars and I've never seen rivets
either. I wonder if the car he worked on was previously owned by another
mook who'd never heard of speed clips.
edspyhill01
wrote:
> "Gary L. Burnore" <gburn...@databasix.com> wrote in messagenews:ijui1f$k04$5...@nntpd.databasix.com...
>
> - Show quoted text -
I found a video on YouTube for replacing speakers in a 2004 Corolla
and it said to drill out the rivets so some door speakers seem to be
riveted.
JoeSpareBedroom
==========
I wonder if they were mounted to a plate which was riveted to the door, and
that had to be removed to use a larger diameter speaker. Toyota usually
doesn't make things such a bitch to remove.
By the way, you'll want to get to an auto parts store and get a tool made
for popping off the clips which hold the interior door panel to the door.
It's worth the money. And if it's chilly & your panels are hard plastic,
wait for warm weather. Plastic gets funny when it's cold. Funny, as in
smashing your toe on a piece of furniture.
You'll also need duct tape to re-fasten the plastic sheet that's glued over
the holes in the door to keep moisture from getting to the panels. You'll
see.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 00:28:37 -0600, Hachiroku ???? <Tru...@e86.GTS> wrote:
>
> Riveted where? Never seen that one before.
Yeah, they're RIVETED into the door panels! You have to drill through the
rivets, taking care not to damage the OEM speakers, to get them out! I
couldn't believe it when I popped the door panel off!
And the speakers are molded into an odd-shaped holder, all one piece, so
you have to make an adapter to fit the opening and mount your speakers on
that. Not hard, I found a template on the web, and took some pressboard
and a jig saw.
More work than I would like to have done! And now ABS adapters are
available. I thnk they were then, but they were a few $$$. I have LOTS of
pressboard hanging around after a shelving unit fell apart! ;)
Hachiroku ハチロク
Nope. These were the factory speakers. Download the Service manual in the
link; it covers how to rivet the replacement speakers onto the door panel.
Hachiroku ハチロク
Nope. That;s the way it is. Riveted right into the door panel. Someone
prbably figured they couls save 10 miutes per car by riveting them.
>
> By the way, you'll want to get to an auto parts store and get a tool made
> for popping off the clips which hold the interior door panel to the door.
> It's worth the money. And if it's chilly & your panels are hard plastic,
> wait for warm weather. Plastic gets funny when it's cold. Funny, as in
> smashing your toe on a piece of furniture.
That's for sure. You can use a screwdriver, and the newer ones will
probably come out without breaking, but on an older car they get brittle,
the heads snap and it's off to the hardware store for new ones. The tool
is $8, and when you do as much monkeying with cars as I do, it's well
worth the money. Plus, a screwdriver can slip and damage the door panel.
On my older beaters I don't care (as much...) but in the Scion or the
Supra...
>
> You'll also need duct tape to re-fasten the plastic sheet that's glued
> over the holes in the door to keep moisture from getting to the panels.
> You'll see.
Actually, on a car that new the goop they use is probably fresh enough.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> [insert old fart in a scion juke here]
>
>> The rears are different. In the Scion they're located in the sides;
>>the back package shelf should be easy. You can remove the deck and get
>>access to the speakers no problem.
>
>
> Like the Scion? How's the ride on the highway?
It has the Celica suspension, so it's a bit stiff. On the old back roads
and with potholes it's a kidney buster. On the highways it's nice and
smooth.
I mentioned a few times I didn't like the seats; like sitting at the
dining room table. Joe will say, "Why'd you buy it then?", but it is a
quick car, lots of pep, performance wise it is a lot like my beloved
Hachiroku. Tests by Car and Driver and Motor whatever show the Scion being
.5 seconds slower in the quarter than the Supra!
I installed a Celica seat in it, and it's a bit low for this car, but the
seating position is a lot nicer, and I stopped stalling the damn thing in
first gear! However, you own a Cressida, if you've ever had a Corolla or a
Celica the pedals-as-an-extension-of-your-feet position is gone. That was
one of the things I liked best about Toyotas. I'd have to move the seat
back about 1.5-2" for that, which I think I'll do in the spring.
JoeSpareBedroom
> On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 16:08:10 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"
>
>>
>>By the way, you'll want to get to an auto parts store and get a tool made
>>for popping off the clips which hold the interior door panel to the door.
>>It's worth the money. And if it's chilly & your panels are hard plastic,
>>wait for warm weather. Plastic gets funny when it's cold. Funny, as in
>>smashing your toe on a piece of furniture.
>
>
> towel and lay it on the area you plan to pry.
>
>
Hopefully, you'll have someone to help you place the car door in a
horizontal position so that towel stays put. Rolling the car on its side
usually does the trick.
>>
>>You'll also need duct tape to re-fasten the plastic sheet that's glued
>>over
>>the holes in the door to keep moisture from getting to the panels. You'll
>>see.
>
> Duct tape? Not weatherstrip adhesive? Really? :)
The goop in most cars is so tough that trying to peel the plastic off
usually rips it. Better to cut a clean hole only in the area where the work
needs to be done. Then, close it up again with duct tape.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:37:03 -0600, Hachiroku ???? <Tru...@e86.GTS> wrote:
>
>
>>I installed a Celica seat in it, and it's a bit low for this car, but the
>>seating position is a lot nicer, and I stopped stalling the damn thing in
>>first gear! However, you own a Cressida, if you've ever had a Corolla or
>>a Celica the pedals-as-an-extension-of-your-feet position is gone. That
>>was one of the things I liked best about Toyotas. I'd have to move the
>>seat back about 1.5-2" for that, which I think I'll do in the spring.
>
> Yeah, had a Cressida and a Corolla, miss the Cressida, not the corolla. :)
> The Solara is more like the Cressida too with the ride of a newer Lexus.
> Don't much like the slap auto trans shifter. Would have liked one with a
> stick, but since I can't press the clutch pedal anymore, I would have had
> to sell it anyway.
Before I got the Scion, I looked at an '01 Solara with 35,000 miles on it.
Nice car, and it had the seating position I liked. But I was trying to
sell some property, and there was a foul up in the titles, and the dealer
called and said he had a customer with cash in hand. I told him to sell
the car (he waited 3 weeks for me).
What I lost in seating comfort, I made up in performance. They both have
the same engine, but the Scion is geared lower so it has more low-down
grunt. You press the gas, and you are DEFINITELY "Moving Forward".
edspyhill01
>
> - Show quoted text -
I redid my testing. The small tweeters are working. The problem, to
my ears, is the front speakers do not have much bass capacity so they
distort when I fade the sound to the front. Is it that Toyota
considers the left side speaker set and right side speaker set as one
each speaker enclosure, each with a tweeter, mid-range, bass speakers,
but spread out? That makes more sense and explains what I'm
hearing. Can I assume that each of the 4 right channels are full
range, or are the channels filtered by crossovers?
The tool mentioned by Hachi is a panel tool. I'll get one of those
tomorrow.
edspyhill01
wrote:
> edspyhill01 wrote:
> > My wife's 2003 Corolla has a typical Toyota sound system with all the
> > sound in the rear speakers. The front speakers can't handle much
> > sound. Are there any howtos, etc that discuss redoing the speaker
> > and radio system in a Corolla so the sound is more in the front
> > speakers and is full range?
>
> It's easier to make rear speakers loud because they mount in a much
> bigger box (the trunk).
>
> The factory manual:
>
> http://pdftown.com/2004-Toyota-Corolla-Service-Manual.html
>
> Do you mean the front speakers distort when the volume is turned up?
> That could mean torn cones or, in the case of woofers, cone surround
> suspensions, but the power amplifiers can develop shorted output
> transistors (some designs can still put out some sound without them)
> or bad bootstrap capacitors. Unfortunately the transistors are
> usually inside big hybrid chips and can't be replaced separately, but
> bootstrap caps are outside and are generic parts.
>
> bigger ones. It doesn't seem the factory mounting allows this for the
> doors, but can you cut new holes in the door panels to mount some
> farther back? OTOH tweeters can go anywhere. BTW, don't add speakers
> in parallel or the amplifiers can be overloaded.
>
> Crutchfield isn't cheap, but they're really good, especially if you
> want a drop-in upgrade.
The service manual was downloaded. Thanks for that link. I even got
it free.
Ed S.
Ray O
"JoeSpareBedroom" <news...@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:ggi8p.51923$7a4....@newsfe01.iad...
<snsipped>
>>>> What was wrong with GM's arrangement?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It sounded hideous, unless you were deaf or thought Hostess Twinkies
>>> were fine pastries. No sane person liked GM's 3-1/2" speakers in the
>>> dashboard.
>>>
>>
>> So the poor sound quality was due to the quality of the speakers more
>> than the placement of the speakers in the dash?
>
>
> It was both factors. You knew that, though.
>
Now that I think about it, the last GM vehicle I spent any time in was my
'72 Chevelle with an AM/FM radio so it's probably safe to say that I'm not
current on how GM audio systems sound.
A lot of the smaller dealers I called on also sold Detroit 3 product, but
when I rode with dealer personnel, we were usually discussing business so
the radio was off.
My wife had a Chrysler LeBaron hatchback for a company car for about 9
months when we got married, but the only time I drove it was to fix the
2,000 RPM idle that the 3 Chrysler dealers I called on couldn't fix. That
car had a throttle body fuel injection, which Toyota never used and I wasn't
familiar with so I studied the repair manual at one of my dealers, made an
SST out of an old PCV valve I picked out of the garbage, and fixed it
myself.
My company car deal was sweeter than hers, so we always took my car when we
went out. The company I worked for let me change cars every 12K miles,
which worked out to about 12 weeks for me, reimbursed all my gas except for
cross country personal trips, a car wash a week, maintenance, and of the 50
or 60 company cars assigned to me, only 1 ever needed a warranty repair.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
JoeSpareBedroom
=============
My son's got a 96 Camry wagon and his speakers are pretty decent. Same with
my 02 Tacoma, so it's unlikely that Toyota suddenly decided to put crappy
speakers in your 03 vehicle. If I were you, I'd begin by replacing the
radio, *but* also add amplification. Unless your speakers are blown, the
most likely cause of the distortion is the radio running out of power. Even
a small (15 to 30 watt per channel) amp for the front would make a world of
difference. Be sure to read the specs carefully. For reasons I don't recall,
auto sound manufacturers are not required to state amplifier power
truthfully except in the very small print. 30 watts of yahoo power (lots of
distortion) is worthless. You're looking the the rating with the low
distortion levels.
=======================
Is it that Toyota
considers the left side speaker set and right side speaker set as one
each speaker enclosure,
========================
Of course.
=======================
each with a tweeter, mid-range, bass speakers,
but spread out?
=======================
Of course, but the "spread out" factor isn't much more (in terms of distance
between drivers) than a tall home audio speaker.
========================
That makes more sense and explains what I'm
hearing. Can I assume that each of the 4 right channels are full
range, or are the channels filtered by crossovers?
========================
There **has** to be a crossover arrangement somewhere in the system or the
bass frequencies would've blown up the tweeters long ago. The "arrangement"
could be as simple as a capacitor on the back of the tweeter.
The word "channel" doesn't apply to each *component* on the left or right.
You have 4 channels: Front-Left, Front-Right, Rear-Left, Rear-Right. Each of
those channels has its own components.
Hachiroku ハチロク
AFIK, no crossover. The design of the tweeter just drops the low
frequencies. It looks to the circuit like a capacitor.
But, I didn't really pay a lot of attention to the tweeters. There may
actually be a capaictor on them to filter the low end.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> Well I suppose that'd work, but it's easier to wrap a warm bath towel
> around it to warm it up. Doesn't take so long that you couldn't hold it.
>
> One must wonder though, using your methond, doesn't it take all the profit
> from the job to pay for the damage? :)
>
>
>>>>You'll also need duct tape to re-fasten the plastic sheet that's glued
>>>>over
>>>>the holes in the door to keep moisture from getting to the panels.
>>>>You'll see.
>>>
>>> Duct tape? Not weatherstrip adhesive? Really? :)
>>
>>
>>The goop in most cars is so tough that trying to peel the plastic off
>>usually rips it. Better to cut a clean hole only in the area where the
>>work needs to be done. Then, close it up again with duct tape.
>
> There's a nifty tool that lets you remove the thing wihout tearing it.
> It's called a butter knife. :)
And almost everyone has one!
Again, though, when the car gets older these get brittle and the ears can
break off. With the older cars I have, the tool is better. Last time I
removed a door panel I only snapped one.
Hachiroku ハチロク
I gotta admit, the '94 LHS I had, and 2 of the three "Caravans" had the
infinity sound system, and those things RULE! In the Caravans the
amplifiers are built into the speakers, but in the LHS there was a
separate amp mounted behind a panel in the trunk, and it sounded NICE!
I was worried about replacing the cassette head unit with an aftermarket
JVC, but had seen others had done it, so I just installed it, set it to
"Low Power", and away we went. The Infinity unit has it's own amp, and
the amp had built in impedance matching, so it was just plug 'n play. Very
nice sound from a factory set up.