Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
I try stuff so you don't have to
17 views
Skip to first unread message
Hachiroku ハチロク
May 8, 2013, 1:02:41 AM5/8/13
to
Been a while since I did one of these...5 years? Been a while since I
posted on Usenet. But, here goes!
Fluid Film. I bought some of this stuff because it is illegal in Mass to
spray your car with hydraulic oil, although that has never stopped me
before. But I did buy some and sprayed the Scion to hopefully keep it
from rusting out. One drawback: it's made from "Woll Lanolin" which I
assume is sheep dip. It smells like a rendering plant I used to pass on
the way to work. It takes a few MONTHS before the smell goes away.
It is also billed as a lubricant and penetrant, and the description says
it soaks into the rust scales to the base metal and STOPS the rusting of
the base metal. OK, but it will take 12-14 years to see if it works...
But I bought a couple more cans at a Mazda dealer because they were half
price and the front crossmember on my 89 Mazda was starting to rust.
We'll see. I also sprayed around the car on any bolts, etc I think I
might have to remove, and other places where the paint had worn away and
rust was starting.
While I was under the car I noticed the shift linkage, which is a metal
rod ala VW was rusting at the U joint, so I sprayed it. I went inside,
had a snack and a cup of coffee, and about half an hour later went out to
go to the store. The shifter was a bit stiffer than it had been before.
The shifter in this car was REALLY sloppy, but now not as much. Still not
tight, but it doesn't rattle in 4th gear anymore... ;)
So, I'm thinking...there must have been some bushings in there....hmmmm...
What does wool lanolin do to rubber....? After a wekk the shifter was
still nice and smooth, so I called the company. On their website the FAQ
says it will swell rubber, but nothing more. So I asked if it
deteriorates rubber, and the girl (very nice, BTW) said, no, it will make
it swell, but not deteriorate it.
COOL!
I jack up the rear of the car and put the ramps under it.
My rear bushings have been bad since I bought the car in 2006, and you
cannot buy the bushings. You have to buy all the links, at a total of
about $900. A smooth firm ride on a 24 year old car with 218,880 miles is
NOT a concern, but it would be nice.
I sprayed all the bushings and let the car sit for about an hour, then
took it out for a test drive. Now, it didn't ride like a new car, but a
LOT of the slop in ther rear suspension is GONE! If they repair cracks in
the asphalt in your area by spraying tar into them, you know the tar
swells and makes the road really bumpy. I took it down one of these and
while not smooth as silk, I barely noticed going over the cracks like I
did before. And on a smooth road the car is a real pleasure to drive.
Also, on the highway, anything above 60 MPH felt dicey, loose and not
very safe. Now 70 MPH is no problem.
This is just a test, and we'll see what happens in the coming months, but
as long as it doesn't deteriorate the rubber I don't see it being a
problem!
posted on Usenet. But, here goes!
Fluid Film. I bought some of this stuff because it is illegal in Mass to
spray your car with hydraulic oil, although that has never stopped me
before. But I did buy some and sprayed the Scion to hopefully keep it
from rusting out. One drawback: it's made from "Woll Lanolin" which I
assume is sheep dip. It smells like a rendering plant I used to pass on
the way to work. It takes a few MONTHS before the smell goes away.
It is also billed as a lubricant and penetrant, and the description says
it soaks into the rust scales to the base metal and STOPS the rusting of
the base metal. OK, but it will take 12-14 years to see if it works...
But I bought a couple more cans at a Mazda dealer because they were half
price and the front crossmember on my 89 Mazda was starting to rust.
We'll see. I also sprayed around the car on any bolts, etc I think I
might have to remove, and other places where the paint had worn away and
rust was starting.
While I was under the car I noticed the shift linkage, which is a metal
rod ala VW was rusting at the U joint, so I sprayed it. I went inside,
had a snack and a cup of coffee, and about half an hour later went out to
go to the store. The shifter was a bit stiffer than it had been before.
The shifter in this car was REALLY sloppy, but now not as much. Still not
tight, but it doesn't rattle in 4th gear anymore... ;)
So, I'm thinking...there must have been some bushings in there....hmmmm...
What does wool lanolin do to rubber....? After a wekk the shifter was
still nice and smooth, so I called the company. On their website the FAQ
says it will swell rubber, but nothing more. So I asked if it
deteriorates rubber, and the girl (very nice, BTW) said, no, it will make
it swell, but not deteriorate it.
COOL!
I jack up the rear of the car and put the ramps under it.
My rear bushings have been bad since I bought the car in 2006, and you
cannot buy the bushings. You have to buy all the links, at a total of
about $900. A smooth firm ride on a 24 year old car with 218,880 miles is
NOT a concern, but it would be nice.
I sprayed all the bushings and let the car sit for about an hour, then
took it out for a test drive. Now, it didn't ride like a new car, but a
LOT of the slop in ther rear suspension is GONE! If they repair cracks in
the asphalt in your area by spraying tar into them, you know the tar
swells and makes the road really bumpy. I took it down one of these and
while not smooth as silk, I barely noticed going over the cracks like I
did before. And on a smooth road the car is a real pleasure to drive.
Also, on the highway, anything above 60 MPH felt dicey, loose and not
very safe. Now 70 MPH is no problem.
This is just a test, and we'll see what happens in the coming months, but
as long as it doesn't deteriorate the rubber I don't see it being a
problem!
jim beam
May 8, 2013, 1:29:42 AM5/8/13
to
cross-linking of all the large springy rubber molecules is starting to
come apart. that is essentially the precursor to failure because now
it'll deform, and not spring back. not immediately of course, but over
time. you've seen oiled saturated radiator hoses slowly swell, then
burst over time i'm sure.
now, sometimes rubber can swell because of other chemicals that /don't/
break the cross-linking, rubber conditioners like this are used in a
number of applications, including engine oil additives that keep seals
working properly. but it's a fine line, and you need to know what
you're doing.
anyway, fingers crossed on this. do more homework on the bushings
though. honda try to sell you whole new suspension arms, but if you can
hunt down the individual part numbers, you can buy the bushings alone.
the cost saving is debatable since replacement on some of the components
is a REAL pita, but you can buy them. i have to think that toyota,
since they buy from the same sources, have similar means. you might
also be able to repair a bushing with one of the soft castable urethane
compounds. i've done this for experiment purposes, and the results,
done carefully, can be quite acceptable.
--
fact check required
Ashton Crusher
May 8, 2013, 4:01:56 PM5/8/13
to
Very interesting. Is Fluid Film the name brand? Sounds like it might
be worth trying on my older cars.
I periodically use spray on engine degreaser to clean off the bottom
side of the engine and the suspension parts. One time when I did that
I thought it would be a good idea to lube the bushings with silicone
to "protect" them from the cleansing effects of the engine degreaser.
As soon as I did the silicone spray the vehicle (92 Explorer 4x4)
started making terrible groaning noises on every bump from the rubber
bushings movements. No amount of additional spraying with silicone
would stop the noise. So I redid the degreaser application and rinse
and 95% of the noise went away. Seems backwards but that's what
happened.
be worth trying on my older cars.
I periodically use spray on engine degreaser to clean off the bottom
side of the engine and the suspension parts. One time when I did that
I thought it would be a good idea to lube the bushings with silicone
to "protect" them from the cleansing effects of the engine degreaser.
As soon as I did the silicone spray the vehicle (92 Explorer 4x4)
started making terrible groaning noises on every bump from the rubber
bushings movements. No amount of additional spraying with silicone
would stop the noise. So I redid the degreaser application and rinse
and 95% of the noise went away. Seems backwards but that's what
happened.
uncle_vito
May 8, 2013, 5:55:38 PM5/8/13
to
"Hachiroku ????" <Tru...@e86.GTS> wrote in message
news:5189dc71$0$63614$c3e8da3$14a0...@news.astraweb.com...
AMuzi
May 8, 2013, 6:32:21 PM5/8/13
to
Degrades the seal material so it swells, which works for at
least some amount of time. Here's the first search result:
https://www.storesonline.com/site/457535/product/101106
One might argue that 'aging' is cured by restoring lost
volatile components of the polymer seal. I don't think
that's right, but then again I'm not selling sealer.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Scott Dorsey
May 8, 2013, 6:39:54 PM5/8/13
to
>That's pretty much the idea of 'sealant additives".
>
>Degrades the seal material so it swells, which works for at
>least some amount of time. Here's the first search result:
>https://www.storesonline.com/site/457535/product/101106
>
>One might argue that 'aging' is cured by restoring lost
>volatile components of the polymer seal. I don't think
>that's right, but then again I'm not selling sealer.
completely unrelated chemistry, which people collectively call "rubber."
They all behave differently, fail differently, and react to solvents
differently.
For some viscoelastic materials, vinyl for instance, they can fail
due to loss of plasticizer making them brittle and adding plasticizer
to them can soften them and help.
For others, urethanes for instance, they mostly fail by the long
chain molecules breaking apart into smaller ones and turning into
goo, and there is nothing to be done about it.
For natural latex rubber, it mostly fails by becoming brittle, but
that brittle is caused by oxidation and crosslinking, not loss of
some plasticizing agent.
This is why you should be very wary of all these magic products that
somehow are treatments for all "rubber" materials. Some might be very
good on one material and terrible on another, and you don't know
until it's too late.
Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
(but did no good for their air hoses).
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
jim beam
May 8, 2013, 11:50:04 PM5/8/13
to
On 05/08/2013 03:39 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>> That's pretty much the idea of 'sealant additives".
>>
>> Degrades the seal material so it swells, which works for at
>> least some amount of time. Here's the first search result:
>> https://www.storesonline.com/site/457535/product/101106
>>
>> One might argue that 'aging' is cured by restoring lost
>> volatile components of the polymer seal. I don't think
>> that's right, but then again I'm not selling sealer.
>
> The problem is that there are hundreds of very different products with
> completely unrelated chemistry, which people collectively call "rubber."
> They all behave differently, fail differently, and react to solvents
> differently.
>
> For some viscoelastic materials, vinyl for instance, they can fail
> due to loss of plasticizer making them brittle and adding plasticizer
> to them can soften them and help.
>
> For others, urethanes for instance, they mostly fail by the long
> chain molecules breaking apart into smaller ones and turning into
> goo, and there is nothing to be done about it.
>
> For natural latex rubber, it mostly fails by becoming brittle, but
> that brittle is caused by oxidation and crosslinking, not loss of
> some plasticizing agent.
it also degrades in u.v. and fatigues - analogous to metal fatigue.
>> That's pretty much the idea of 'sealant additives".
>>
>> Degrades the seal material so it swells, which works for at
>> least some amount of time. Here's the first search result:
>> https://www.storesonline.com/site/457535/product/101106
>>
>> One might argue that 'aging' is cured by restoring lost
>> volatile components of the polymer seal. I don't think
>> that's right, but then again I'm not selling sealer.
>
> The problem is that there are hundreds of very different products with
> completely unrelated chemistry, which people collectively call "rubber."
> They all behave differently, fail differently, and react to solvents
> differently.
>
> For some viscoelastic materials, vinyl for instance, they can fail
> due to loss of plasticizer making them brittle and adding plasticizer
> to them can soften them and help.
>
> For others, urethanes for instance, they mostly fail by the long
> chain molecules breaking apart into smaller ones and turning into
> goo, and there is nothing to be done about it.
>
> For natural latex rubber, it mostly fails by becoming brittle, but
> that brittle is caused by oxidation and crosslinking, not loss of
> some plasticizing agent.
natural rubbers made into things like tires can be quite resistant to
O2, but vulnerable to O3.
>
> This is why you should be very wary of all these magic products that
> somehow are treatments for all "rubber" materials. Some might be very
> good on one material and terrible on another, and you don't know
> until it's too late.
>
> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
> (but did no good for their air hoses).
> --scott
also used dow molykote 44 and found it effective for the rubber.
absolute pig to keep the glass clean after though.
--
fact check required
Geoff Welsh
May 9, 2013, 1:52:06 AM5/9/13
to
GW
Nate Nagel
May 9, 2013, 7:12:52 AM5/9/13
to
On 05/08/2013 06:39 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
> (but did no good for their air hoses).
> --scott
>
Gummi Pflege is made by Einszett ("1Z") and I just bought some last fall
> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
> (but did no good for their air hoses).
> --scott
>
on the recommendation of some BMW guys. I used to wipe silicone into my
door seals but they spoke so highly of the stuff that I figured I ought
to give it a try. I haven't noticed any ill effects yet, although I
can't think that I've actually had the car in a freezing rain to see if
it works as well as silicone to keep door seals from freezing shut.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
jim beam
May 9, 2013, 10:46:03 AM5/9/13
to
only has a small percentage silicone in the first place, and the balance
of its composition will start to swell and degrade natural rubber over
time. i tried using it on sway bar bushings and within a few weeks, it
would stick to and lock the bar to the rubber so hard, you had to cut it
off.
maybe it was a useful product when it was first released, but it sure
isn't today. - unless you;re a shop where you just want to slap
something together quickly and you never see what happens to that car again.
--
fact check required
jim beam
May 9, 2013, 10:50:28 AM5/9/13
to
On 05/09/2013 04:12 AM, Nate Nagel driveled:
completely useless post from the king of useless posts.
--
fact check required
> On 05/08/2013 06:39 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>
>> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
>> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
>> (but did no good for their air hoses).
>> --scott
>>
>
> Gummi Pflege is made by Einszett ("1Z") and I just bought some last fall
> on the recommendation of some BMW guys. I used to wipe silicone into my
> door seals but they spoke so highly of the stuff that I figured I ought
> to give it a try. I haven't noticed any ill effects yet, although I
> can't think that I've actually had the car in a freezing rain to see if
> it works as well as silicone to keep door seals from freezing shut.
>
> nate
>
you bought some but you have no idea if it works. iow, another
>
>> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
>> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
>> (but did no good for their air hoses).
>> --scott
>>
>
> Gummi Pflege is made by Einszett ("1Z") and I just bought some last fall
> on the recommendation of some BMW guys. I used to wipe silicone into my
> door seals but they spoke so highly of the stuff that I figured I ought
> to give it a try. I haven't noticed any ill effects yet, although I
> can't think that I've actually had the car in a freezing rain to see if
> it works as well as silicone to keep door seals from freezing shut.
>
> nate
>
completely useless post from the king of useless posts.
--
fact check required
Scott Dorsey
May 9, 2013, 12:20:06 PM5/9/13
to
In article <kmgcss$9ih$1...@dont-email.me>, jim beam <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>On 05/09/2013 04:12 AM, Nate Nagel driveled:
>> On 05/08/2013 06:39 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>
>>> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
>>> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
>>> (but did no good for their air hoses).
>>
>On 05/09/2013 04:12 AM, Nate Nagel driveled:
>> On 05/08/2013 06:39 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>
>>> Sadly, BMW has discontinued gummipflege, which worked very well on
>>> the window and door gasket materials used by that manufacturer
>>> (but did no good for their air hoses).
>>
>> Gummi Pflege is made by Einszett ("1Z") and I just bought some last fall
>> on the recommendation of some BMW guys. I used to wipe silicone into my
>> door seals but they spoke so highly of the stuff that I figured I ought
>> to give it a try. I haven't noticed any ill effects yet, although I
>> can't think that I've actually had the car in a freezing rain to see if
>> it works as well as silicone to keep door seals from freezing shut.
>
>> on the recommendation of some BMW guys. I used to wipe silicone into my
>> door seals but they spoke so highly of the stuff that I figured I ought
>> to give it a try. I haven't noticed any ill effects yet, although I
>> can't think that I've actually had the car in a freezing rain to see if
>> it works as well as silicone to keep door seals from freezing shut.
>
>you bought some but you have no idea if it works. iow, another
>completely useless post from the king of useless posts.
It is in part academic because the stuff from Einszett is not the same as
>completely useless post from the king of useless posts.
the original BMW product. It smells different.
Ashton Crusher
May 9, 2013, 3:02:04 PM5/9/13
to
On Wed, 08 May 2013 17:32:21 -0500, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
All oils contain a component that "swells seals". Particularly
Synthetic oils. Would you prefer that all seals simply age and crack?
Synthetic oils. Would you prefer that all seals simply age and crack?
Nate Nagel
May 9, 2013, 4:43:00 PM5/9/13
to
a BMW product, and was giving him the manufacturer name in case he wants
to find a source for it since he seemed to like it.
You may find that useless, but I was trying to help Scott, not to
entertain you.
Nate Nagel
May 9, 2013, 4:48:15 PM5/9/13
to
have no historical knowledge of the product... have you tried the
Einszett product and does it work as you recall, or too soon to tell?
Nate Nagel
May 9, 2013, 4:53:40 PM5/9/13
to
being available to order online
http://www.getbmwparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=82+149+407+015&make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214672
(yeah, I know they're "BMW of Silver Spring" now)
might as well try to order it and see what happens if you really liked
the stuff. I can't guarantee success - I was able to successfully place
an order for the euro fire extinguisher bracket but the order was
subsequently cancelled due to unavailability. :(
Scott Dorsey
May 9, 2013, 8:55:45 PM5/9/13
to
Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
>I just became aware of the product when I got my latest Bimmer, so I
>have no historical knowledge of the product... have you tried the
>Einszett product and does it work as you recall, or too soon to tell?
I have tried it, and it is too soon to tell, but the word on the street
>
>I just became aware of the product when I got my latest Bimmer, so I
>have no historical knowledge of the product... have you tried the
>Einszett product and does it work as you recall, or too soon to tell?
is not good.
Nate Nagel
May 10, 2013, 7:42:15 AM5/10/13
to
"Carbaflo KSP 105" which is a smaller tube and has an eye watering price.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1894467/
Apparently BMW has been having a lot of problems with seal
squeaks/creaks and this is the solution. However I must be very lucky
or very deaf - my car is a coupe (frameless windows like a hardtop) and
is pretty quiet, I put a couple coats of the 1Z Gummi Pflege on it in
the fall and it didn't noticeably creak before nor after.
Most people seem to be talking about solving squeaks and creaks, not
long term preservation of seals.
Nate Nagel
May 10, 2013, 8:37:37 AM5/10/13
to
me of this conversation, so I went ahead and added a tube of Gummi
Pflege just to see what would happen (for once, a BMW product that isn't
extortionately expensive)
Got this in my inbox not long after placing the order:
> Dear valued getBMWparts.com customer,
>
> Order Number: (elided)
> *BMW Rubber Care has been discontinued and is no longer available - removed item from order.
>
> Thanks again, -getBMWparts.com
So I guess that answers that question then.
jim beam
May 10, 2013, 10:33:46 AM5/10/13
to
you need to drivel your discovery process online is the abiding mystery
none of us want to know.
--
fact check required
Nate Nagel
May 10, 2013, 11:25:24 AM5/10/13
to
so. I'm not surprised though because you have a long pattern of having
nothing to contribute.
Clearly, you weren't disciplined enough as a child, as evidenced by your
inability to interact with grownups and your shockingly poor manners.
Do us all a favor and just go away until you have something important to
say.
Hint: even if *you* think what you have to say is important, it isn't.
Ashton Crusher
May 10, 2013, 11:48:21 AM5/10/13
to
On Fri, 10 May 2013 07:42:15 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
wrote:
Might be cheaper to slick them up with Chanel #5
wrote:
jim beam
May 10, 2013, 12:04:22 PM5/10/13
to
On 05/10/2013 08:25 AM, Nate Nagel bleated:
<snip crap>
a statement when in fact they are barking at their own mirror, is by
definition.
bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
--
fact check required
<snip crap>
> Hint: even if *you* think what you have to say is important, it isn't.
lol! nate, you're a spectacular anosognosic cretin. anyone making such
a statement when in fact they are barking at their own mirror, is by
definition.
bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
--
fact check required
Nate Nagel
May 10, 2013, 1:01:32 PM5/10/13
to
On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
serious projection.
But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
try shutting up for once.
nate
Ashton Crusher
May 10, 2013, 1:37:01 PM5/10/13
to
On Fri, 10 May 2013 13:01:32 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
wrote:
>On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>
>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>
>Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
>serious projection.
>
>But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
>try shutting up for once.
>
>nate
Would you please just kill file the asshole. You guys just keep
feeding that troll.
wrote:
>On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>
>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>
>Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
>serious projection.
>
>But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
>try shutting up for once.
>
>nate
feeding that troll.
Geoff Welsh
May 10, 2013, 2:26:28 PM5/10/13
to
and it worked great. I'll have to read the label next time I think of
it. I use the clear silicone (like di-electric or the Delco Brake Lube
stuff) on sway bar bushings.
GW
jim beam
May 10, 2013, 8:10:03 PM5/10/13
to
--
fact check required
jim beam
May 10, 2013, 8:10:13 PM5/10/13
to
On 05/10/2013 10:01 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>
>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>
> Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
> serious projection.
>
> But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
> try shutting up for once.
behold, anosognosia defined!
> On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>
>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>
> Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
> serious projection.
>
> But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
> try shutting up for once.
--
fact check required
Nate Nagel
May 10, 2013, 10:04:11 PM5/10/13
to
Garrett
May 10, 2013, 10:39:05 PM5/10/13
to
"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message
news:11cqo81baa42dgr33...@4ax.com...
Yes, please. I did, but still have to see him by proxy in replies.
Nate, please kill file it
jim beam
May 10, 2013, 10:49:18 PM5/10/13
to
On 05/10/2013 07:04 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> On 05/10/2013 08:10 PM, jim beam wrote:
>> On 05/10/2013 10:01 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>> On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>>>
>>>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>>>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>>>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>>>
>>> Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
>>> serious projection.
>>>
>>> But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
>>> try shutting up for once.
>>
>> behold, anosognosia defined!
>>
>>
>
> called it. I'm done, you projecting moron.
>
bark! bark! hey retard, why's that mirror barking back at you?
> On 05/10/2013 08:10 PM, jim beam wrote:
>> On 05/10/2013 10:01 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>> On 05/10/2013 12:04 PM, jim beam wrote:
>>>
>>>> bottom line, if you can't learn to read, learn to be silent. you may
>>>> not comprehend the extent or noxiousness of your pointless driveling,
>>>> but you have absolutely no reason to expose the rest of us to it.
>>>
>>> Wow, that's a textbook example of irony right there, not to mention some
>>> serious projection.
>>>
>>> But you still can be a better man and not reply to this post. Go ahead,
>>> try shutting up for once.
>>
>> behold, anosognosia defined!
>>
>>
>
> called it. I'm done, you projecting moron.
>
--
fact check required
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 8, 2013, 12:26:12 AM6/8/13
to
beginning to get back to 'normal' again.
I can't buy just bushings, so what can I do to replace them. The car has
221000 miles on it, not worth $999 for all new suspension parts, which is
the only way to get the bushings. But it runs well and the engine is
strong, still gets 31 MPG. Would be nice to have a smooth suspension...
jim beam
Jun 8, 2013, 12:42:09 AM6/8/13
to
it cost to replace the vehicle?
and what about all the urethane suspension kits you can get on ebay?
--
fact check required
jim beam
Jun 8, 2013, 12:51:35 AM6/8/13
to
<http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCP2674358_0130997138>
if you have the dimensions, they're pretty good at cross-referencing.
--
fact check required
N8N
Jun 8, 2013, 10:36:51 AM6/8/13
to
physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a greatly
increased possibility of noise.
I've done a couple cars with them and it does make a nice improvement
in tightness, but at the cost of ride quality. The first two, I did
exactly according to the mfgrs. directions and used the "Gorilla Snot"
grease on the control arm bushings after roughing up the bushings to
expose the supposedly impregnated graphite in the poly. They both
creaked every time you went over a driveway apron, although they did
otherwise handle well.
The next vehicle I did, I did not have the option of using
"polygraphite" bushings only non-graphited polyurethane. Since
following the directions didn't work for me and this vehicle was
relatively easy to disassemble (VW Scirocco) I decided to
experiement. I bought a tube of powdered graphite and rubbed it into
the bushings until they turned a uniform pencil lead color before
installing - this was easy as they were molded with red-colored poly.
That car was dead quiet for tens of thousands of miles afterward until
I sold it, so I would actually recommend using that approach rather
than using grease.
The poly is much easier for a DIYer to install, as they don't require
a press, bench vise, or improvised all thread/nut/socket/washer setup
to press the pushings in, they push in with firm hand pressure. I
replaced the control arms on the Scirocco with new making the job even
easier as at the time they were about $25 apiece, which was worth it
to not have to press the old bushings out and have to derust,
straighten, repaint etc. the old control arms - just wave a spray can
at them, assemble, install, done.
just my experiences...
nate
jim beam
Jun 8, 2013, 11:07:41 AM6/8/13
to
> As they
> physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a greatly
> increased possibility of noise.
>
oh look, you have nothing to say.
--
fact check required
N8N
Jun 8, 2013, 11:48:22 AM6/8/13
to
poly bushings, and I figured Mr. 86 might like to know the pros and
cons of poly vs. traditional rubber (if he doesn't already) and
possible strategies for mitigating same since you simply recommended
them without comment.
>
> > As they
> > physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a greatly
> > increased possibility of noise.
>
> <snip irrelevant drivel>
>
> oh look, you have nothing to say.
Oh, look, you didn't read my post. Hopefully Hachi did, 'cause that
> > As they
> > physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a greatly
> > increased possibility of noise.
>
> <snip irrelevant drivel>
>
> oh look, you have nothing to say.
was to whom I was really directing it.
nate
jim beam
Jun 8, 2013, 12:01:19 PM6/8/13
to
being available for his application since he apparently can't find any
alternates. that's why the "?" symbol was there. but of course, you're
functionally illiterate and completely misunderstood.
>>
>>> As they
>>> physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a greatly
>>> increased possibility of noise.
>>
>> <snip irrelevant drivel>
>>
>> oh look, you have nothing to say.
>
> Oh, look, you didn't read my post.
> Hopefully Hachi did, 'cause that
> was to whom I was really directing it.
you can't freakin' read.
--
fact check required
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 20, 2013, 12:57:37 AM6/20/13
to
as soon as I got my hands on it, and every other year since. It runs
quite well, and if roads are smooth as glass it's a joy to drive.
The biggest issue is that I stopped changing the oil. I don't have to.
I have to add a quart every three days. It's not burning it (except for a
small amount of valve seal blow-by on starting) and it's not leaking. I
have rel=paced the valve cover gasket and that slowed it down. I'm
thinking oil pan gasket...
The only other somewhat problem is the R-12 AC isn;t working.
Knew I shoulda bought that 60LB can for $80 when I had the chance!
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 20, 2013, 1:01:12 AM6/20/13
to
Supra and have to do the HG before I get them in. I got a complete set
for the cost of one control arm (you can't get the bushings for the front
lower control arms...you have to buy the whole thing...)
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 20, 2013, 1:04:14 AM6/20/13
to
high price. Polys weren't a lot easier to find for this year (88) but I
was able to order them through AutoZone for 1/4 the price of OEM
bushings.
But I didn't realize about the squeaking. I can't STAND a car that
squeaks, for ANY reason, so I will try rubbing the bushings with graphite
before installing them.
>>
>> > As they
>> > physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a
>> > greatly increased possibility of noise.
>>
>> <snip irrelevant drivel>
>>
>> oh look, you have nothing to say.
>
> Oh, look, you didn't read my post. Hopefully Hachi did, 'cause that was
> to whom I was really directing it.
>
> nate
jim beam
Jun 20, 2013, 9:56:38 AM6/20/13
to
amazing - you should drive it over to fermi-lab p.d.q. - you might have
a black hole or a spacetime wormhole going on!
I
> have rel=paced the valve cover gasket and that slowed it down. I'm
> thinking oil pan gasket...
>
> The only other somewhat problem is the R-12 AC isn;t working.
>
> Knew I shoulda bought that 60LB can for $80 when I had the chance!
check into whether you still can. but i'm sure that it'll be even more
expensive today. conversion to 134 isn't that expensive. especially
not if you do it yourself. the money you save on diy should more than
pay for a vacuum pump.
--
fact check required
jim beam
Jun 20, 2013, 10:00:44 AM6/20/13
to
won't need to worry about it.
graphite might work, but i'd use silicone. dow molykote 44 [or 33?]
works very well.
>
>
>>>
>>>> As they
>>>> physically rotate in their shells rather than twist there is a
>>>> greatly increased possibility of noise.
>>>
>>> <snip irrelevant drivel>
>>>
>>> oh look, you have nothing to say.
>>
>> Oh, look, you didn't read my post. Hopefully Hachi did, 'cause that was
>> to whom I was really directing it.
>>
>> nate
>
> Yes, he did. Thanks.
>
fact check required
Nate Nagel
Jun 20, 2013, 10:22:59 AM6/20/13
to
liberally applied it so that the moving surface of the bushing turned
from red (color of the material) to a uniform "lead" pencil color. I
had it, it was inexpensive, and if it *didn't* work removing the control
arms on the subject car was a 30 minute job, so I had nothing to lose by
the experiment. I didn't have to take it apart ever again though - I
drove the snot out of that car for years afterward in all kinds of
weather with nary a creak.
Haven't tried Molykote, but whatever grease PST shipped with their
bushing kits back in the day (circa 1997ish) didn't work worth a
rodent's rosy red. Everything tightened up nicely and in normal driving
you wouldn't notice anything unusual, but I did cuss a little under my
breath going over speed bumps and driveway aprons.
nate
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 20, 2013, 11:48:22 PM6/20/13
to
Hachiroku ハチロク
Jun 27, 2013, 1:06:33 AM6/27/13
to
As of right now, I need to do the head gasket. And mice got in it, and I
cannot get the smell out. :( I have half the interior out, and was going
to at some point take the whole interior out and do what little rust work
has to be done. So, I'm halfway there...
The suspension will wiat for a while, I guess.
0 new messages