Bleeding take line
EdV
Tegger
955f27...@y9g2000yqg.googlegroups.com:
> Should the engine be running when I'm bleeding the brakes?
No.
What bleeding method are you planning on using?
--
Tegger
Hachiroku
> Should the engine be running when I'm bleeding the brakes?
Not neccessary.
Hachiroku ハチロク
2 jugs, plastic hose, and a quart of fluid?
Jeff Strickland
"EdV" <syst...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:408c562c-d9ac-42e0...@y9g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
> Should the engine be running when I'm bleeding the brakes?
It is not required.
Jeff Strickland
"Scott in Florida" <Mov...@outa.here> wrote in message
news:5act45hkadkea4elj...@4ax.com...
>
> My way is to suck the brake fluid out at each corner with a hand pump.
>
> You can also have a 'friend' push the brake pedal while you loosen
> each corner. That would require the engine to be running if you have
> power brakes....
>
No, the open line will bleed easily even if you have power brakes and the
engine is off. Indeed, it might even be easier to modulate the brake pedal
if you have power brakes but bleed with the engine off.
Tegger
in news:pan.2009.07.04....@e86.GTS:
I mean:
1) pedal-push,
2) Mity Vac,
3) pressure bleeder,
4) gravity.
--
Tegger
hachiroku
2 jars, a length of plastic hose (clear, so you can see what's going on),
a couple of lids to fit the jars. Hook the hose up to the first bleeder,
with some clean brake fluid in the jar. Set the hose so it is in the brake
fluid, and open the bleeder. If you have an extra lid for the master
cylinder, so much better. Cut a hole in it to fit a quart of brake fluid,
and thread it so the bottle threads in. Put this on the MC. Pump the
brakes until the MC has fresh fluid in it, and then a couple more times.
Close the bleeder. Repeat for each wheel cylinder.
Actually, this flushes the system, which no one ever does...
Tegger
news:pan.2009.07.06....@e86.GTS:
Wow. My method involves a rather simpler (depending on your personal
experience) system employing a device known as a "Wife".
In my scenario, the Wife sits in the driver's seat and applies directed
pressure to the brake pedal while you luxuriate in an easy near-supine
position near the wheel in question. You simply call "PUSH" at the
appropriate moment, while manipulating the bleed screw as required. The
Wife is familiar with the "PUSH" directive in proportion to how many
children she has borne.
One may also execute the above method employing another device called a
"Neighbor". The drawback to the Neighbor method is that afterwards the
Neighbor may feel entitled to an unspecified allocation of "Beer" -- this
substance being provided by you -- or the possession of your "Lawn Mower"
mechanism for an indefinite period of time, whichever he prefers.
--
Tegger
hachiroku
My method is a great deal less expensive...
>
> One may also execute the above method employing another device called a
> "Neighbor". The drawback to the Neighbor method is that afterwards the
> Neighbor may feel entitled to an unspecified allocation of "Beer" -- this
> substance being provided by you -- or the possession of your "Lawn Mower"
> mechanism for an indefinite period of time, whichever he prefers.
Most people around here are retirement age...or worse. I'd be *afraid* to
yell "PUSH!" at any of them!
hachiroku
> Mighty Vac is a hell of a lot easier than counting on wife......
Hmmm...one place has it for $23...
Tegger
> On Fri, 3 Jul 2009 18:16:23 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwl...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
> Dosen't that depend on how the bleeding is done?
>
> My way is to suck the brake fluid out at each corner with a hand pump.
>
> You can also have a 'friend' push the brake pedal while you loosen
> each corner. That would require the engine to be running if you have
> power brakes....
>
Not at all.
Once the bleed screw is opened, the pedal will slam suddenly to the floor
even with the engine off and all the vacuum gone.
--
Tegger
Ed
I have not yet performed this DIY. but here's how I will do it. The
2007 Camry 4cyl has power assisted brakes, I think it will be hard to
step on the pedal with the engine off.
1. turkey baster the old fluid in the reservoir and fill to the Max
line. I dont have a small baster so I dont think I can reach to the
very bottom.
2. Let wifey pump the brake pedal and keep it pressed down.
2a. starting from the rear right brake assy. unscrew the bleed screw
and close immediately. wifey will only release when I tell her too.
<<repeat about 2 times per brake assy on all 4 wheels>>
3. Refill the reservoir with new brake fluid.
Ed
On Jul 7, 10:14 am, Scott in Florida <Mov...@outa.here> wrote:
>
> As Tegger pointed out, you do NOT need to have the engine running.
>
> When you unscrew the bleeder the brake pedal will drop to the floor
> without any assist.
>
> Two times may not be enough to clear the line.
>
> You need to monitor the brake fluid reservoir while you bleed. Top it
> up as necessary.
>
> It will drop more when you bleed the front discs.
>
> --
>
> Scott in Florida
Tegger
2fc0f2...@x3g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:
> thanks for all the response.
>
> I have not yet performed this DIY. but here's how I will do it. The
> 2007 Camry 4cyl has power assisted brakes, I think it will be hard to
> step on the pedal with the engine off.
Not at all. Try it and you'll see.
The instant the bleed screw is opened, the pedal will drop immediately
to the floor without any resistance. You may even have to put your toe
under the pedal in order to make it pop back up again.
By the way, how many years has it been since the fluid was changed? This
is important.
>
> 1. turkey baster the old fluid in the reservoir and fill to the Max
> line. I dont have a small baster so I dont think I can reach to the
> very bottom.
Doesn't matter. Get as much as you can. Remove the screen first.
Refill with fresh fluid when done.
>
> 2. Let wifey pump the brake pedal and keep it pressed down.
Just tell her to push hard and hold it. No need to "pump".
>
> 2a. starting from the rear right brake assy. unscrew the bleed screw
> and close immediately. wifey will only release when I tell her too.
Pedal will slam to floor the instant you open the bleed screw.
What you do is open the screw then close it the instant you hear the
pedal smack the floor. Wife can then release the pedal at her
convenience.
>
> <<repeat about 2 times per brake assy on all 4 wheels>>
Repeat until that part of a circuit /runs clear/ and has no bubbles. For
the long runs it may take a half-dozen or more pumps.
>
> 3. Refill the reservoir with new brake fluid.
You need to keep the reservoir topped up as you bleed. Suck out the old
fluid, but refill with new. Check the level every eight pumps or so to
make sure you don't run dry.
If you allow the reservoir to run dry you will have AIR IN THE LINES,
whihc is a going to be a big hassle to get rid of completely.
--
Tegger
Ed
pedal has to be pushed down more than it used to be, not all the way
down but feels like its changed from day 1. I'm guessing that since I
replaced the rear pads myself and had been constantly checking the
fluid reservoir by opening the cap, I may have contaminated the fluid
inside. So I want to be sure and bleed the line.
Tegger
news:87b4c962-4a74-47d8...@g31g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
>
> On Jul 7, 12:26�pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
>
>>
>> By the way, how many years has it been since the fluid was changed?
>> This is important.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Thanks tegger, its been 3 years last May,
If you pushed the pedal to the floor at that time, then you can also do
so this time during bleeding. If it had been SIX years since the last
bleed, then I would warn you against allowing the pedal to go to the
floor.
> my concerns is that the
> pedal has to be pushed down more than it used to be, not all the way
> down but feels like its changed from day 1.
Are you certain? Have you a newer car to compare yours against?
Perception isn't always reality, you know.
> I'm guessing that since I
> replaced the rear pads myself and had been constantly checking the
> fluid reservoir by opening the cap, I may have contaminated the fluid
> inside. So I want to be sure and bleed the line.
Simply opening and closing the master cylinder cap will have no effect
at all. It's sort of vented anyway, so air can get in as the fluid level
declines in normal use.
It is ubiquitously common for brake pedals to require more and more
travel as the years build up. This is generally due to two things: 1)
poor maintenance and repair, and 2) aftermarket parts.
Poor maintenance and repair can cover everything from neglected fluid
changes to sticky pistons to seized pad slides to seized pins to rust
buildup to excessive master cylinder pushrod clearance.
You'll probably find an improvement in pedal travel by changing the
fluid (so long as you keep the master cylinder from running dry as you
bleed!!), but don't expect a major difference. Your brakes may need a
good general inspection by a pro who really understands how brakes work.
--
Tegger