Camshaft Sprocket Removal - Any Advice?
Obie Jones
with a 3vze engine. I am having difficulty with the cam sprocket
removal. I can't get the bolt to break loose. I know they make a cam
sprocket holder tool. Do I need to get that? Or does anyone have any
tips or tricks I can try? Also, once I get the bolt off, do I need a
puller to remove the sprocket from the shaft? Any advice is
appreciated. TIA
gregory trimper
Obie Jones wrote:
> I am in the process of replacing the head gasket on my 1990 4Runner
> with a 3vze engine. I am having difficulty with the cam sprocket
> removal.
We'll assume then that you've already partially disassembled the motor?
You'll beed a pin wrench, which looks like a horseshoe on a handle, with
pins that stick out at 90deg and hold the cam in place using the inner
spokes.
> tips or tricks I can try?
Only that if you try to loosen the bolt first, sometimes the combination
of compression and friction with the belt hold it enough to get it
loose. Sometimes.
Another tip: since you're doing the head gasket and not just a timing
belt change, remember to follow the procedure to realign the cams and
crank when reinstalling the timing belt, don't rely on eyeballing it or
any marks you made before starting.
> Also, once I get the bolt off, do I need a
> puller to remove the sprocket from the shaft?
No, it will come off pretty easily, once that very difficult bolt is
removed.
lycka till!
GTr
- -
http://www.preservestoughton.org/
Luther
"Obie Jones" <ckubili...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:6n5u40ppf764gt91p...@4ax.com...
Ditto on everything Greg said. No way you will break the bolts without
something serious to hold the pulleys - even then you will have to give it a
serious pull. I bought the following:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-96800.html
It worked great.
There is a fellow on this list that says he put a socket through the
sprockets of the pulley on one of the 10mm machine bolts holding the No. 3
(or 4) timing cover on and used this to hold the pulley. No way would I do
that for fear that I would shear the head off of the bolt, bend the timing
cover, or both. Maybe his pulleys had been off before and weren't torqued
to factory spec. Mine were/are and both times I took them off I had to
grunt a bit even with the proper tools.
Yes - the pulleys will slide right off the end of the camshaft once you
remove the bolts. No puller required.
As far as aligning the crankshaft/camshaft pulleys when you put the belt
back on, it's not that hard. The key is to put them all the marks at the
top, get the belt on, apply full tension to idler pulley 1 by lossening the
bolt, turn the crankshaft with a socket two full turns (always clockwise -
never counter-clockwise), make sure all is still aligned properly after
doing this, and then tighten the bolt on no. 1 idler where it is if all
looks okay. I've gone through this a couple of times on my 3VZ-E and have
had no problems with timing. The shop manual talks about removing the pins
on the end of the camshaft and putting them back in but I just don't get
this part as there is only one place that they can go. The rest of the
procedure is per the manual.
Here is a big tip of my own. Instead of disconnecting all of the vacuum
hoses from the air intake chamber, remove the three bolts holding the three
valves to the fender well and toss the whole assembly on top of the intake
chamber. This will save you tagging and disconnecting about 80 % of the
vacuum hoses. I have done it both ways and will never go back.
Also, leave the crossover pipe connected to the right head's exhaust
manifold (right is passenger side.) There is one bolt that is virtually
impossible to get to on that side. The three bolts on the left side are
cake to get to. Pull that head first, then pull the other head with the
crossover still attached. It makes it cumbersome to pull the head off, but
it will save you some aggravation.
Oh - make sure you adjust your valves after all is said and done if this is
not something that you have been doing regularly.
When the head is off, you don't have to remove the valves, but I would
recommend it to clean, check tolerance, and lap. If you don't have a valve
spring compressor, I used a giant C-Clamp and a U-shaped piece of metal (to
go over the valve stem) and this worked great.
Finally, if you haven't already, definitely go with the head gasket kit
rather than separate head gaskets. It has all kinds of goodies in it that
you will definitely want to use and, hopefully, it will be a long time
before you are back in that far again to have a chance to replace these
items. Some of the stuff you have to have such as the plenum gasket and the
intake gaskets. Others, such as the camshaft seals, exhaust doughnuts, head
cover gaskets, and valve stem seals are nice extras.
All I can think of off-hand. If you hit any snags, give us a shout. I am
in the process of putting mine back together as we speak.
Good Luck,
Luther
Luther
> Also, leave the crossover pipe connected to the right head's exhaust
> manifold (right is passenger side.) There is one bolt that is virtually
> impossible to get to on that side. The three bolts on the left side are
> cake to get to. Pull that head first, then pull the other head with the
> crossover still attached. It makes it cumbersome to pull the head off,
but
> it will save you some aggravation.
>
Nix the above advice. I was just putting mine back together and skinned the
left head gasket trying line it up with the block and the crossover
connection. I had picked up this tip from this list and followed it and -
while it made it easier to take things apart it made it more difficult to
put back together. I took the crossover back off of the right exhaust
manifold and was able to easily secure the heads and reattach the crossover.
The bolt that is supposedly impossible to get to on the right side can be
reached from below the vehicle with a 3/8-drive socket wrench and a small
extension. It's a long ways up, but one can get to it.
Luther
Mike
on my 88 3.0L
I can't find any documentation on what gaskets/seals etc are needed
(and where) for a 3.0L V6, 1988 Toyota PU. I made the mistake of
pulling the rear cover when I changed the camshaft seals - the entire
interior of the cover looked like a really bad oil pan! I really want
to make sure that the back is seales aginst oil and crud getting in
again.
Anyway, neither Chiltons, Haynes, OR the Toyota web site ($10 for 1
day access) shows the gaskets/seals, etc. I'm pretty sure that I'm
also supposed to put some 'squeeze a gasket' in a few places. I
ordered gaskets from the Toyota dealer, got 2 foam rubber type half
circles
that are smaller than what I took off - the originals where slightly
more than half circle; also got a straight pice about 2 inches long
(foam type) and a 'complicated' foam piece that I think runs between
the two half circles that go around the cam shafts.
Anyone know of any pictures of the 3.0L V6 (1988) that show the
gaskets/seals etc for the BACK timing belt cover ?
thnx
Mike K
p.s. I also used a socket on the bolt head behind the sprocket - it
was a bitch breaking it loose; most definitely a 2 man job! Rounded
the bolt head a little, so when I re-assemble, I'll put the better
looking bolts under the sprockets, and the worn ones around the edge
of the cover.
gregory trimper <tri...@spamcop.net> wrote in message news:<RPJ3c.32459$PY.2...@newssvr26.news.prodigy.com>...
Luther
block the gap between it and the intake manifold. There is also a dust seal
between the No3. (small plate behind No. 2 idler) and the No 4 as well.
If you want to replace all the dust seals, your best bet is to look at the
picture on the computer with the clerk at the dealership's parts counter.
They are all there and Toyota will sell them to you - they will probably
have to order some of them and you will pay a bunch of money for what are
simply strips of foam. The tech's at the dealership told me they would just
leave them off.
I bought the rubber seals for the No. 1 and No. 2 timing covers from the
dealership and fabricated the others using high-temperature self-adhesive
pipe insulation. Worked fine.
The No. 4 dust seal should not be exposed to oil. It should be bone dry.
There must be an oil leak somewhere.
Luther
"Mike" <mrk...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:8c5ec142.0403...@posting.google.com...
Mike
> The seals on the back of the No.4 timing cover are just dust seals that
> block the gap between it and the intake manifold. There is also a dust seal
> between the No3. (small plate behind No. 2 idler) and the No 4 as well.
>
> If you want to replace all the dust seals, your best bet is to look at the
> picture on the computer with the clerk at the dealership's parts counter.
That sounds like the only way - even the Toyota repair manual doesn't
show them, even in the section on head removal/replacement,.
> They are all there and Toyota will sell them to you - they will probably
> have to order some of them and you will pay a bunch of money
$40 for the main seal on the front cover, $11 for the larger foam dust
seal
> are simply strips of foam. The tech's at the dealership told me they would > > just leave them off.
>
If you've got a'messy' engine, or even go 4 wheelin' a lot, that would
leave the timing belt subject to 'stuff' getting in thru the back of
the cover! Seems like a bad idea to me!?!?
> I bought the rubber seals for the No. 1 and No. 2 timing covers from the
> dealership and fabricated the others using high-temperature self-adhesive
> pipe insulation. Worked fine.
>
> The No. 4 dust seal should not be exposed to oil. It should be bone dry.
> There must be an oil leak somewhere.
>
> Luther
>
Yeah, the entire inside of the cover looked like an oil pan (the
inside of an oil pan!). I think most of it came from the camshaft seal
that was bad, but I want to make sure to keep it clean inside.
Thanks for your help
Mike K
Obie Jones
suggested. It arrived yesterday and I used it as soon as I got home
from work. Within seconds (with the help of a cheater pipe) the bolt
was off. Definitely worth the money. I'll be ordering my headgasket
kit, head bolts, and radiator today. Hopefully, if all goes well,
I'll be back on the road sometime next week.
Thanks again,
L.D.
On Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:47:54 -0600, "Luther" <lwa...@knology.net>
wrotD: