1999 Camry: Tough to clean EGR valve?

[Yee Hah]

Hi,
My check engine light has been on in our 1999 2-cylindar Camry. The other
night a neighbor hooked up a device and got back code P0401. He then
cleared the code. The check engine light came back on the next day.

I've done some research on this code and I think I have a decent layman's
understanding of the problem.

From what I've read, if I try to fix it myself, it looks like cleaning the
EGR valve is a good place to start. I don't have experience with cars.

1) Is this something that I could do myself or should I just take it to a
car repair place?

2) If it's something I could do myself, is there a source I can turn to that
has illustrations and instructions?

Thanks.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Could be something you can do yourself - you'll save yourself at least
$100 (likely more) in labor. Do you have a Haynes manual for the car?

try also www.turboninjas.com/camry

There's a nut connecting the EGR valve to a pipe (pipe leads to the
engine) but it is on TIGHT. I used Haynes' picture of the throttle
body disassembly to help me disconnect the other end of the pipe that
leads to the engine.

When removed, I used a blowtorch on the nut to remove the pipe from
the EGR valve. After it cooled, I cleaned the valve with throttle
body solvent.

A new EGR valve will run you about $100, +/-, IIRC. Cleaning should
do it...

Michael

[ransley]

The problem is its missing 2 cilinders.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

cute. that took awhile to register... thanks 4 the laugh

[Yee Hah]

<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e7b93ef5-a248-4b62...@s9g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

Thanks Mike. It sounds like I should try cleaning it first. By the way, as
another poster pointed out, I meant to say my Camry is a 4-cylinder.

Coinciding with the check engine light issue, this same car in the past 3
days or so has had a hard time starting. Sometimes when I turn the key,
there's almost no noise and the engine doesn't make "turn over" noises (a
couple of times it gave a slight chug or a slight click sound). At these
moments, the dashboard lights all work, the radio works, the fan works, but
the engine won't start!

I might wait a few seconds then try starting the car once or twice more to
no avail, then out of the blue when I try again the car starts as if there
wasn't ever a problem.

Is this issue completely separate from the PO401 issue?

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Jan 8, 1:02 pm, "Yee Hah" <blahblahb...@blah.com> wrote:
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote in message

Probably separate. Engine should at least turn over (and lights
should dim) regardless of EGR state. I'd suspect something wrong with
the starter, or starter solenoid... if it eventually does work it's
probably not fuse related... but who knows... I've never experienced
it so I can't really comment...

Michael

[Winston]

Yee Hah wrote:
(...)

> I might wait a few seconds then try starting the car once or twice more to
> no avail, then out of the blue when I try again the car starts as if there
> wasn't ever a problem.
>
> Is this issue completely separate from the PO401 issue?

Sounds like a classic case of 'dirty battery terminals'.
Careful with that acid and high current, Eugene.

--Winston

[ransley]

On Jan 8, 3:02 pm, "Yee Hah" <blahblahb...@blah.com> wrote:
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote in message

> Is this issue completely separate from the PO401 issue?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Clean battery terminals, check voltage it should be about 12.8 after
sitting a few hours and charge to around 13.3 from motor running. If
Voltage is low and cables clean have it tested, its usualy free, get
it before it dies when you are out. It could be something different
but the battery is common. Carry jumper cables.

[john...@hotmail.com]

In addition to the EGR valve itself, the vacuum modulator also plays a
role in the amount of EGR valve lift. If the throttle body ports are
obstructed, then there may not be enough vacuum to open the valve.
That's another reason why I don't like old-fashioned vacuum operated
valves. If you have a plugged EGR pipe then it also points to an
engine running too rich.

So in addition to cleaning the pipe, you might want to first try using
a MityVac (free loaner tool program at AutoZone), and measure the
vacuum level at the throttle body ports and at the EGR valve.

http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/loan_a_tool.htm

With the car properly park for the diagnosis, just pull vacuum on the
EGR valve itself (say 17 in/Hg). If the engine runs rough at idle then
the valve is probably fine. Then you need to check the modulator:

1. Warm up the engine to operating temperature
2. Connect the TE1 and E1 connectors on the DLC connector (passenger
side of the engine compartment behind the strut.)
3. At 2500 RPM measure the vacuum at the EGR valve (hose from the
modulator).
You should see something like 3 in/Hg.
4. Open up the throttle, then the vacuum should increase up to full
engine vacuum (depending on how much open throttle you can tolerate).

Then let us know.

On Jan 8, 7:07 am, "Yee Hah" <blahblahb...@blah.com> wrote:

[WMB]

Coinciding with the check engine light issue, this same car in the past 3
> days or so has had a hard time starting. Sometimes when I turn the key,
> there's almost no noise and the engine doesn't make "turn over" noises (a
> couple of times it gave a slight chug or a slight click sound). At these
> moments, the dashboard lights all work, the radio works, the fan works,
> but
> the engine won't start!

Check the contacts in the solenoid on the starter. Usually at about 100,000
miles, depending on how many starts of course. I use to make my own out of a
cooper buss but now they are a pretty cheap item and easy to get.