Timing Belt Roar 1998 Camry 4 cylinder

[Dogman]

I just changed the timing belt and water pump on a 1998 Camry, 4 cylinder.
Preventative maintainence.

I used the spring to adjust the belt tension, per the service manual. I
checked the spring with a spring scale and ruler per the service manual --
it was OK. The idler pulleys seemed good (smooth- and tight-running, good
surface finish).

I now get a mild roar or similar noise around 2000 rpm.

I Googled "roar", "camry", and "timing belt." One hit said that the timing
belt will make noise if too loose and if too tight -- that it is very hard
to get it just right. True?

Any ideas?

Will it break in? Is a mild roar indicative of a life-limiting condition?

I hate to take this thing apart repeatedly. The lower bolts on the engine
mount were a bitch.

Thanks.

Jose

[john...@hotmail.com]

My experience with timing belts is that the engine usually runs
smoother and quieter after the change. Besides the timing belt, you
also have to check the alt/ac and ps belts to make sure they are
properly tensioned. I use a Krit-it II gauge from the local napa
store, because nobody seems to carry the dial gauge one.

http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cfm?brochure=2506&location_id=2977

You have to follow the instruction to the letter in doing a timing
belt. I believe that generation 4cyls require tightening the tensioner
pulley at 45deg BTDC, not 0deg TDC like most engines! The pulley bolts
need to be properly torqued down, even with a $14.99 Harbor Freight
3/8" torque wrench. 33 ft/lb I think. An automatic tensioner would
have been nice, but the 4 cyl is a cheap engine so it can't adjust for
belt stretch and some belts' backs become glazed after 60K miles. Not
to mention some 5SFE belts stretched enough to slap the timing cover
according to a Toyota TSB.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=807

So recheck your work and properly tension the timing belt and
accessory belts. The t-belt likes to jump teeth with the tensioner
loose, so have patience. Turn only clock wise. Turn the crank 2 revs
before and after tightening down the bolt and recheck the mark twice.

[john...@hotmail.com]

BTW, what brand of timing belt and water pump? I would typically do:

(www.rockauto.com prices for 3/5SFE)
GATES TCK199 (kit of timing belt with two pulleys and instruction)
$84.79
GATES Part # K030295 PS belt $4.32
GATES Part # K050435 Alt/AC $12.12
FEL-PRO TCS45641 Cam seal $4.11
FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crank seal $6.04
BCA Part # 221820 Oil pump seal $2.71
AISIN (Toyota #16110-79185) water pump $58.79
FEL-PRO VS50304R valve cover gasket set $13.94

On Mar 24, 7:22 pm, "Dogman" <Dogman1234...@att.net> wrote:

[ransley]

Dont drive it till you fix it, no it wont "get better"

[Daniel]

Dogman wrote:
> I just changed the timing belt and

> I used the spring to adjust the belt tension

====
You cannot really use the spring to adjust timing belt tension on the
four cylinder. You need to pry up on the idler pulley with the
adjustment bolt loosened to tension the belt, then release it,
allowing the spring to hold the correct tension. Then tighten the
bolt. The spring alone is not strong enough.
I would recommend you re do the job.
I use two combination wrenches "daisy chained" together to reach the
lower engine brace bolts, and with practice it gets fairly easy.
=======
IMHO that is an excellent engine.
and rubber parts last a long, time, plus with proper care, mechanical
wear is nil and economy good. Very excellent design overall.

[john...@hotmail.com]

It would have been nice if a hydraulic tensioner was installed, it
would certainly solve a lot of these types of problems. But that just
adds too much cost to a basic 4 cyl engine.

I think Daniel has a point, but instead of prying I'd make sure the
tensioner pulley bolt is sufficiently loose as to not interfere with
the spring. That allows you to follow the instruction then to the
letter.