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Rear Brake Drum Removal on Camry 2005 LE
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Wes
Mar 12, 2012, 8:32:50 PM3/12/12
to
I am looking for instructions/suggestions on how to remove rear brake
drum on my Camry 2005 LE (4 cyl). I need to inspect the rear brake
shoes. I have noticed on front surface, there there is a larger hole
with rubber plug and 2 small holes (I think threded) on both sides of
the hub.
drum on my Camry 2005 LE (4 cyl). I need to inspect the rear brake
shoes. I have noticed on front surface, there there is a larger hole
with rubber plug and 2 small holes (I think threded) on both sides of
the hub.
Ralph Mowery
Mar 12, 2012, 9:25:18 PM3/12/12
to
"Wes" <wbra...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4946514d-6b0a-4763...@gr6g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
http://www.ehow.com/how_4853634_rear-drum-brakes-toyota-tacoma.html
Winston
Mar 13, 2012, 1:27:53 AM3/13/12
to
Toyota Information System http://www.techinfo.toyota.com
It will cost you $15 for two days access. That will be the
smartest $15 you ever spend.
--Winston
Wes
Mar 17, 2012, 5:33:50 PM3/17/12
to
now seems to be that the drum seems to be "fused" to the hub. I gave
the drum few whacks with a hammer, but it does not move at all in
relation to the hub. Any advice on how to overcome this obstacle?
Winston
Mar 17, 2012, 11:21:14 PM3/17/12
to
screws into those threaded holes?
Parking brake is not set, yes? (GD&R)
Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel
back a taste to avoid any ridge in the drum?
--Winston
Wes
Mar 18, 2012, 9:32:11 AM3/18/12
to
little dimples, so I can not use bolts to force the drums out. I am
planning to buy rust penetrator and try to loosen connection between
drum and the hub. Now the hub and the drum look like it is a solid
piece, such a good fit. I watched some videos on internet on how to
take a "stubborn" drum of the hub, and sometimes the drum needs to
take a heavy pounding before it gets loose. In the worst case, I will
take it to Toyota dealer (not a preferred option). My Camry milage is
~123,0000 km, or ~76,000 miles. The front brakes are amazingly
durable, I hope the rear ones are similar, but it's about time to
check them out.
Q & A to Winston's questions:
Q: Parking brake is not set, yes?
A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
A: Planning to buy one and use it.
Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to
avoid any ridge in the drum?
A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete
lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum
is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there
should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the
drum is not stuck.
Winston
Mar 18, 2012, 1:08:53 PM3/18/12
to
Wes wrote:
(...)
> Q& A to Winston's questions:
http://www.eastwood.com/brake-drum-remover.html
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt105.htm
You can probably borrow one from your local parts monger
for a small deposit.
--Winston
(...)
> Q& A to Winston's questions:
>
> Q: Parking brake is not set, yes?
> A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
>
> Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
> A: Planning to buy one and use it.
>
> Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to
> avoid any ridge in the drum?
> A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete
> lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum
> is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there
> should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the
> drum is not stuck.
The 'drum remover' tool sounds perfect for this problem.
> Q: Parking brake is not set, yes?
> A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
>
> Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
> A: Planning to buy one and use it.
>
> Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to
> avoid any ridge in the drum?
> A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete
> lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum
> is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there
> should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the
> drum is not stuck.
http://www.eastwood.com/brake-drum-remover.html
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt105.htm
You can probably borrow one from your local parts monger
for a small deposit.
--Winston
Wes
Mar 18, 2012, 4:44:51 PM3/18/12
to
On Mar 18, 1:08 pm, Winston <Wins...@Bigbrother.net> wrote:
> Wes wrote:
>
> (...)
>
> > Q& A to Winston's questions:
>
> > Q: Parking brake is not set, yes?
> > A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
>
> > Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
> > A: Planning to buy one and use it.
>
> > Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to
> > avoid any ridge in the drum?
> > A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete
> > lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum
> > is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there
> > should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the
> > drum is not stuck.
>
> The 'drum remover' tool sounds perfect for this problem.
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/brake-drum-remover.htmlhttp://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt105.htm
> Wes wrote:
>
> (...)
>
> > Q& A to Winston's questions:
>
> > Q: Parking brake is not set, yes?
> > A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
>
> > Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
> > A: Planning to buy one and use it.
>
> > Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to
> > avoid any ridge in the drum?
> > A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete
> > lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum
> > is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there
> > should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the
> > drum is not stuck.
>
> The 'drum remover' tool sounds perfect for this problem.
>
>
> You can probably borrow one from your local parts monger
> for a small deposit.
>
> --Winston
Thanks for all the info! I have successfully removed the drum. Using
> You can probably borrow one from your local parts monger
> for a small deposit.
>
> --Winston
PB Blaster seemed to do the trick. It turns out that after almost
80,000 miles there is ~3.5 mm thicknes left on the shoes, so changing
them can be done at the later date. According to factory manual the
original thickness was ~5 mm, so it seems there is many miles/kms left
on them.
Winston
Mar 18, 2012, 5:05:06 PM3/18/12
to
Wes wrote:
(...)
> Thanks for all the info! I have successfully removed the drum.
WooHoo! :)
> Using PB Blaster seemed to do the trick.
Better living through chemistry.
> It turns out that after almost 80,000 miles there is ~3.5 mm thicknes
> left on the shoes, so changing them can be done at the later date.
> According to factory manual the original thickness was ~5 mm, so it
> seems there is many miles/kms left on them.
Yup. The fronts do most of the stopping.
Luckily they are discs and almost fun to fix.
If you were around me, I'd loan you my power bleeder so you could
flush your brake lines. It is the Cat's Pajamas.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
--Winston
(...)
> Thanks for all the info! I have successfully removed the drum.
> Using PB Blaster seemed to do the trick.
> It turns out that after almost 80,000 miles there is ~3.5 mm thicknes
> left on the shoes, so changing them can be done at the later date.
> According to factory manual the original thickness was ~5 mm, so it
> seems there is many miles/kms left on them.
Luckily they are discs and almost fun to fix.
If you were around me, I'd loan you my power bleeder so you could
flush your brake lines. It is the Cat's Pajamas.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
--Winston
Wes
Mar 18, 2012, 7:04:46 PM3/18/12
to
it was never done since the purchase?
Winston
Mar 18, 2012, 7:38:44 PM3/18/12
to
Wes wrote:
(...)
> Would the brake line bleeding be recommended for 7 years old car, if
> it was never done since the purchase?
I've never seen it on a manufacturer's list of maintenance
items but personally I feel it would be a good idea.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water out of the
air. Water can corrode brake parts and support algae
growth.
Recently I had to replace the master and clutch cylinders
on my truck because the reservoir and lines had become
'algae central'. After flushing that junk out of the lines
and replacing those parts, the clutch was much more predictable
and linear.
--Winston
(...)
> Would the brake line bleeding be recommended for 7 years old car, if
> it was never done since the purchase?
items but personally I feel it would be a good idea.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water out of the
air. Water can corrode brake parts and support algae
growth.
Recently I had to replace the master and clutch cylinders
on my truck because the reservoir and lines had become
'algae central'. After flushing that junk out of the lines
and replacing those parts, the clutch was much more predictable
and linear.
--Winston
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