changing spark plugs on '95 Camry V6 1MZ-FE engine
Gordon Slishman
Haynes recommends removal of intake manifold; Toyota service leaves
the manifold -- but wants $200+ for the job. Can anyone describe
how to replace the rear three plugs with manifold in place?
Thanks,
Gordon
Chris
"Gordon Slishman" <slis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:283ba00c.02111...@posting.google.com...
There's no special tools. All you need is a variety of extensions, and a
u-joint to get down between the firewall and manifold. Hardest part is
getting the wires or coils depending ignition system out of the tubes. After
that just play around with different combinations on extensions and the
u-joint to get the plugs out. Most of the time it's a 6" extenstion with the
u-joint one one end, and the spark plug socket on the other, then a 12"
extention with the ratchet connecting to the other end of the u-joint.
Chris
DT
engine forward.
"Raymel Rowh" <rrow...@neo.rr.com > wrote in message
news:1q0ituolg6s8f33sl...@4ax.com...
> Good Morning- I was just reading through some of the post here and saw
this one
> and it made me wonder if you could disconnect the top engine mount or
mounts and
> rock the engine forward to get to the plugs? Some GMs you can do this to
when
> working on the back side.
>
> Ray
Chris
"Raymel Rowh" <rrow...@neo.rr.com > wrote in message
news:1q0ituolg6s8f33sl...@4ax.com...
> Good Morning- I was just reading through some of the post here and saw
this one
> and it made me wonder if you could disconnect the top engine mount or
mounts and
> rock the engine forward to get to the plugs? Some GMs you can do this to
when
> working on the back side.
>
> Ray
>
No, and there is no need to anyway. Just takes a bit of patience
Chris
> On Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:28:08 GMT, "Chris" <mini...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
> >
sargeusmc57
Just let me make one suggestion. After you have removed the old plugs
and have gapped the new ones and are going to screw in the new ones, I
would seriously suggest that you get a piece of rubber hose/tubing
which you can squeeze down onto the porcelain part of the plug. With
the plug firmly pushed into the hose/tubing, lower the plug into the
plug hole and carefully thread it down into the hole. I find that it
is sometimes easier to start it by turing it counterclockwise until
you feel it drop into the threads. Then slowly are carefully tighten
the plug down with the hose/tubing until you cannot tighten it
anymore. Then and only then put the socket on to it and finish to
tighten it. And don't overkill it on tightening it, just snug it up
or else you might have it seize on you the next time around. Good
luck.
Poppo
I was able to replace the rear three spark plugs in my '95 ES300 without
removing the intake manifold.
I removed or moved a few hoses to give better access to the passenger side
plug and moved just a few others to access the other two plugs.
1) remove the 5/16" ID hose on the passenger side of the rear portion of the
manifold. This hose connects to the lower horizontal port on a solenoid at
the rear of the intake manifold on the driver side. This hose is about 14"
long and is held in place with clamps that are loosened with just finger
pressure - not screw clamps.
2) remove the PCV valve and its 'J' hose. The valve just pulls out of its
mounting hole. The other end of the hose is attached using a 'finger' clamp.
The 'J' hose total length is about 4".
3) Loosen the 12mm nut used to retain two ground wires on the passenger side
of the rear cylindrical portion of the intake manifold. Move the wires out
of the way.
4) There is a vertical silver cylinder about 1 1/4" diameter and say 2" tall
near the firewall. It has two 3/16" ID hoses running to the solenoid of step
1 and to a port on the intake manifold near the solenoid. Just disconnect
them from the silver cylinder; leave them attached to the solenoid and
manifold.
5) At the rear of the intake manifold near the passenger side there is a
metal bracket used to support a 1/4" metal tube. Remove the 10mm mounting
nut; you'll want to move the tube a bit to get your hand in the region.
Those were the only things I had to move/remove to give access. I started
with the passenger side plug and removed its igniter. Once the new plug was
in I put a wad of cloth in the plug access tunnel to keep dirt from falling
in as I worked on the other two. Once the center plug was replaced I plugged
its tunnel too.
I used a mirror near the firewall to give better visual access to the other
two plugs.
I used various combinations of 3/8" extensions to get to the plugs. For the
driver side plug I used 6", 5" and 3" extensions. I bought a 3/8" universal
joint but did not need it.
I marked the igniters as they came out to make sure I got them back into
their original locations. I replaced all three plugs before re-installing
the igniters.
I put anti-sieze on the new plug threads before installing them.
Total time for the three rear plugs took 2 1/2 hours.
"Gordon Slishman" <slis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:283ba00c.02111...@posting.google.com...
Gordon Slishman
for $242 from the local shop are persuading me to try my hand
when I have a solid three hours -- for three plugs. This being
the first "repair" in over seven years, I cannot complain.
Any advice on double platinum, vs single platinum? The Toyota
dealer doesn't use the NGK BKR6EP-11 plugs spec'ed in the '95
owner's manual, and the local mechanic uses a "double platinum"
nostrum. What is "double platinum?" Which plug lasts a full 60K?
-Gordon
Chris
"Gordon Slishman" <slis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:283ba00c.02111...@posting.google.com...
What you need is a dual electrode platinum plug. You have a multi spark
ignition system, so the dual electrodes will last longer, and are the 60k
mile plugs. Use either NGK or ND plugs.
Chris