1999 Camry crankshaft pulley bolt

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Is it 19mm or 20mm?

Can't find the specs anywhere...

[badgolferman]

mrda...@gmail.com wrote:

>Is it 19mm or 20mm?
>
>Can't find the specs anywhere...

I'm not sure, but I have a bunch of mechanical and electrical
diagrams/instructions from a 1997 Camry that I don't own anymore. I
can e-mail them to you if you wish and you can sift through them.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Yes please! m r d a r r e t t [at-symbol-thingie] g m a i l . c o m

In the meantime I figured it is 19mm, but rather than go to the store, I found that 19mm is 0.748 inches, close enough to 3/4 inch... which I happen to have!

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

Assuming it's a 4 cylinder, Looks like this guy used a 3/4 inch SAE
socket.. probably a 6 point socket, so a 19 mm. If you're changing the
timing belt there are some good videos on youtube also.
http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/102/Toyota/Camry/1997-2001_(Gen_4)/Timing_Belt_R_R_(v2)/#.UaM6rtLFXxA

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Thanks! I'm on Day 4 of the Water Pump/Timing Belt adventure. Water pump failed catastrophically, and I think the timing is off too since the car won't start.

I just noticed something. My fuel gauge dropped from 3/4 to 2/3. I didn't disconnect the battery because I really need to listen to music while working on the car, and I noticed this morning I had left the keys on ON instead of ACC (to power the windows, and forgot about that). Would the fuel pump have continued to pump fuel into the cylinders? Would it evaporate on its own or...?

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

The fuel pump wouldn't run except for a couple of seconds when you
fist turn the key to on, it doesn't start running again until the engine
starts. The fuel gauge on my 98 Toyota... takes forever to get down to
a half tank then moves down much faster... in other words they aren't
that accurate. No way the fuel will evaporated if the vapor control
emission system is still original and working properly. Make sure you
get the crankshaft bolt back on TIGHT but don't break it ... if you have
anyway of holding it from turning I'd sure use a torque wrench on it.
When I did mine the harmonic balancer came off without having to use a
puller which surprised me. ... The Y bracket, it helps a lot if you
have a helper to hold it while you get the first couple of bolts started
and don't forget the hidden 12mm bolt. I'd suggest reading some of the
Toyota forums if you haven't and watch the youtube videos. The timing
belt must be exactly right when you put it all back together. If the
engine over heated ... not good, you might want to go ahead and try
retorquing the head bolts to try and prevent a blown head gasket.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Monday, May 27, 2013 1:08:19 PM UTC-7, Fat-Dumb and Happy wrote:
> The fuel pump wouldn't run except for a couple of seconds when you
>
> fist turn the key to on, it doesn't start running again until the engine
>
> starts.

Oh ok, great!

> The fuel gauge on my 98 Toyota... takes forever to get down to
>
> a half tank then moves down much faster... in other words they aren't
>
> that accurate.

I figured it's because the fuel tank is kind of cone-shaped...

> No way the fuel will evaporated if the vapor control
>
> emission system is still original and working properly. Make sure you
>
> get the crankshaft bolt back on TIGHT but don't break it ... if you have
>
> anyway of holding it from turning I'd sure use a torque wrench on it.
>
> When I did mine the harmonic balancer came off without having to use a
>
> puller which surprised me. ...

Same here! Didn't need to use the harmonic balancer I'd borrowed from autozone.

> The Y bracket, it helps a lot if you
>
> have a helper to hold it while you get the first couple of bolts started
>
> and don't forget the hidden 12mm bolt. I'd suggest reading some of the
>
> Toyota forums if you haven't and watch the youtube videos.

Doing that now.

I got everything taken apart... replaced the (destroyed) water pump, even the tensioners. Using the old timing belt to get everything into position, then I'll use the new one (no point stressing out the new one prematurely).

I've got a couple of problems:

1. I'm not quite sure what mark to align to on the CAMshaft. There's a circle impression, and a slit about 45 degrees from that circle.

2. I turn and turn, but get no compression at all from my compression gauge! Then again, it looks like the borrowed gauge has a bad O-ring. That needs to be replaced, huh.

2b. It *is* a non-interference engine (5S-FE, 4-cylinder 1999 Camry), right?

> The timing
>
> belt must be exactly right when you put it all back together.

I know! My worry is confusing TDC with Exhaust stroke (180 degrees out of phase). Oh, and figuring out where exactly that camshaft mark is...

> If the
>
> engine over heated ... not good, you might want to go ahead and try
>
> retorquing the head bolts to try and prevent a blown head gasket.

It didn't... car made it maybe one block before making REALLY loud noises...stopped the car, noticed a puddle on the ground, and turned right back home before the T-stat even knew the car was warm...

Thanks!

Michael

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Monday, May 27, 2013 2:02:12 PM UTC-7, mrda...@gmail.com wrote:


Hmm, I took the timing belt off again, and aligned the CAMshaft to the 11:30pm position (it snapped into place; it was as though the lobes were happy to be at one of four positions, and this was one of them). It was the SLIT mark (not the circle).

Also read somewhere online that it's supposed to be the 11:30pm position, not the 9:30pm position...

Going to get that compression tester O-ring swapped out...

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

yes the engine is noninterference. you can put the plugs back in the
harmonic balancer back on and run it for a little bit. Then remove the
crankshaft pulley and put it all back together just to test it a bit.
This has a good explanation of where the timing marks are and how
they must be when the belt is on.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/264429-diy-gen3-timing-belt-waterpump-oil-seal-change-part-2-a.html
from the article .. With moderate tension in the timing belt between
the camshaft and the water pump, align “V” notch in camshaft seal
housing with hole in camshaft pulley. If you look at the right hand side
of the mirror, near the edge, in the above photo, you will see a round
indentation. That is NOT the mark you want. The one you want is the "V"
shaped notch.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, May 28, 2013 2:29:44 AM UTC-7, Fat-Dumb and Happy wrote:
> yes the engine is noninterference. you can put the plugs back in the
>
> harmonic balancer back on and run it for a little bit. Then remove the
>
> crankshaft pulley and put it all back together just to test it a bit.
>
> This has a good explanation of where the timing marks are and how
>
> they must be when the belt is on.
>
> http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/264429-diy-gen3-timing-belt-waterpump-oil-seal-change-part-2-a.html
>
> from the article .. With moderate tension in the timing belt between
>

> the camshaft and the water pump, align �V� notch in camshaft seal

>
> housing with hole in camshaft pulley. If you look at the right hand side
>
> of the mirror, near the edge, in the above photo, you will see a round
>
> indentation. That is NOT the mark you want. The one you want is the "V"
>
> shaped notch.

Cool! Thanks for the link too!

[mrda...@gmail.com]

I got it done, but then after putting the new belt on, the belt slipped a few teeth when rotating the crankshaft (AAAAHHHH!!!!)

Then I found this. Apparently the tensioner has to be pulled upwards with great force to provide tension on the timing belt, then that 14mm bolt torqued to 31 ft-lb.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/alt.autos.toyota.camry/timing$20belt$20loose$20tensioner/alt.autos.toyota.camry/hqfI6LWchqE/Bde8EheZ08sJ

Tried it (not with a hook, but just pulling up on the roller with my fingers), but now I'm off by about 5 degrees AFTER top dead center. GRR.

Gotta redo it...

Michael

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:48:29 AM UTC-7, mrda...@gmail.com wrote:

...

> Then I found this. Apparently the tensioner has to be pulled upwards with great force to provide tension on the timing belt, then that 14mm bolt torqued to 31 ft-lb.
>
>
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/alt.autos.toyota.camry/timing$20belt$20loose$20tensioner/alt.autos.toyota.camry/hqfI6LWchqE/Bde8EheZ08sJ
>
>
>
> Tried it (not with a hook, but just pulling up on the roller with my fingers), but now I'm off by about 5 degrees AFTER top dead center. GRR.
>
>
>
> Gotta redo it...
>
>
>
> Michael

That lack of additional tension *might* explain why his timing belt failed after 1 1/2 years...

"UPDATE: March 25, 2010: After about 1.5 years and 20K Kms, I could hear some rattling under the timing belt cover when the engine was cold. The noise went away when the engine was warm. It sounded like the timing belt was getting loose and hitting the cover. I was planning to tear it all down and tighten the belt when the weather got a bit warmer, but the belt broke before I got it apart. I am not sure if the original belt was defective or if I installed it too loose to begin with. Bottom line is if you hear some rattling, it is a good idea to take the timing belt cover off and check the belt tension. I used a Contitech belt (more expensive) this time. Hoping that this one will perform better."

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/264429-diy-gen3-timing-belt-waterpump-oil-seal-change-part-2-a.html

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

You'll get right. A friend of mine once had a timing belt break on
his Honda while the family was traveling on vacation, two or three
unexpected days in a motel 1,000 miles away from home. A month or two
later the engine quit and it turned out the timing belt had been put on
to tight and I don't remember if it finally broke the camshaft or just
ruined the bearings, but he was out another repair job it.
Now let's see you find a Toyota approved antifreeze without having to
buy it from Toyota at 30 bucks a gallon. I don't know what is so damn
special about their anti-freeze but last time I checked there was only
one after market anti-freeze that meets their specs.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Oh, too tight, huh. Thanks for the warning.

I did Daniel's prybar trick (wrapped a crowbar with a sock so I wouldn't scratch my tensioner), pulled up with both arms, let the spring keep the tension, rotated the crankshaft 1 7/8 (actually a little more than that... missed the mark slightly... uhoh) then torqued the tensioner bolt to 30 ft-lb. Ran the car for awhile... at least this time the timing belt didn't want to slide off like last time (when I assumed the tensioner bolt had to be loose to allow the spring to do its magic). I think the thermostat opened... I have to drain and fill that radiator again to get all the bits of metal out (the water pump impeller scored the pump housing a bit).

Yeah CarQuest sells the Toyota antifreeze for $28/gallon. When I use Toyota antifreeze I didn't notice any corrosion in my radiator, but I did notice some corrosion in my '96 Camry when I used the cheaper stuff. The magic ingredient *might* be the sodium hydroxide in the Toyota antifreeze...

What other antifreeze meets Toyota's spec?

[badgolferman]

mrda...@gmail.com wrote:

>Yeah CarQuest sells the Toyota antifreeze for $28/gallon. When I use
>Toyota antifreeze I didn't notice any corrosion in my radiator, but I
>did notice some corrosion in my '96 Camry when I used the cheaper

>stuff. The magic ingredient might be the sodium hydroxide in the

>Toyota antifreeze...
>
>What other antifreeze meets Toyota's spec?

I always thought the Toyota antifreeze's special quality was lack of
silicate.

[mrda...@gmail.com]

Confused... Prestone says their 50-50 prediluted coolant is silicate-free.
http://www.prestone.com/enmx/learn_more/frequently_asked_questions

"For those consumers who would feel more comfortable using a phosphate-free antifreeze, our Prestone® Extended Life 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant is phosphate, silicate, and borate free"

It's not clear if Prestone's other products are silicate-free too.

Oh! Does it matter which way the tensioner spring faces? The factory manuals and Haynes don't mention it, but the instructions on the Gates timing belt kit said to "make sure the spring faces the same way" as the original, and I don't recall which way that was... I already put it on and I'd hate to have to take it off again, after I tensioned it and everything...

[Geoff Welsh]

mrda...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I got it done, but then after putting the new belt on, the belt
> slipped a few teeth when rotating the crankshaft (AAAAHHHH!!!!)
>
> Then I found this. Apparently the tensioner has to be pulled upwards
> with great force to provide tension on the timing belt,

that's just flat out wrong. The spring provides all the tension the
belt needs, that's why it's there. You put the belt on the right way to
begin with, allow the spring to work, then you tighten the tensioner
bolt, turn the engine 360 degrees, loosen, allow the spring to work
again, and then torque the bolt.

Toyota timing belts are by far the easiest to do. They are my absolute
favorites. Shouldn't take even four hours on a Camry.

To anyone else out there who reads this some day, I always recommend the
timing belt kit by Gates. They're sold pretty much anywhere...even
Amazon.com. It comes with the belt, the tensioner, the idler, and VERY
GOOD instructions....and the quality is the same as any OEM.
GW

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Friday, May 31, 2013 9:24:39 PM UTC-7, Geoff Welsh wrote:
> mrda...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I got it done, but then after putting the new belt on, the belt
>
> > slipped a few teeth when rotating the crankshaft (AAAAHHHH!!!!)
>
> >
>
> > Then I found this. Apparently the tensioner has to be pulled upwards
>
> > with great force to provide tension on the timing belt,
>
>
>
> that's just flat out wrong. The spring provides all the tension the
>
> belt needs, that's why it's there. You put the belt on the right way to
>
> begin with, allow the spring to work, then you tighten the tensioner
>
> bolt, turn the engine 360 degrees, loosen, allow the spring to work
>
> again, and then torque the bolt.

Well, alright. Before I heard about the upwards-force method I didn't even get 360 degrees before the belt wanted to fall off (!!!) and even slipped a few notches, throwing everything out of alignment. I had too much faith in that spring being able to do *all* the work...

> Toyota timing belts are by far the easiest to do. They are my absolute
>
> favorites. Shouldn't take even four hours on a Camry.

I agree about the Camry being easy compared to an interference engine... those would be much, much harder... especially with repairing bent valves.

Pep Boys quoted me four hours ($500), including changing the tensioners. I'm on Day 8 of the adventure, working on it when I get home from work. I'm almost done putting it back together. The really time-consuming part (apart from the timing belt wanting to fall off and slip notches) was removing and re-installing the two bolts holding the engine mount bracket. I don't have the special tools they used in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o7VXosHXQ8

> To anyone else out there who reads this some day, I always recommend the
>
> timing belt kit by Gates. They're sold pretty much anywhere...even
>
> Amazon.com. It comes with the belt, the tensioner, the idler, and VERY
>
> GOOD instructions....and the quality is the same as any OEM.
>
> GW

Yup, the Gates timing belt kit... that's what I got from CarQuest. Good stuff.

Say, question. I get a strange noise when turning the steering wheel either all the way to the left or all the way to the right. Did I simply put the power steering belt on too loosely? I flushed the PS fluid also, after removing the PS hose (to get extra space to work on that engine mount bracket).

Thanks,

Michael

[Geoff Welsh]

That video you linked to is quite good, not sure why you had any
problems if you watched that, especially since he shows letting the
tensioner spring-up all the slack in the belt in part 2.

Not sure what tools you thought were special, they all looked basic to
me. With Honda, OTOH, you DO need a special tool just to hold the
crankshaft because the 4 cyls turn COUNTER-clockwise, unlike almost
everyone else's. On V6 and DOHC engines, my own "special" tool is a
couple of spring clips I got from old closet skirt hangers. (my
grandma's) to hold the belt in a few places as I wind it around the rest.

A loose PS belt will usually squeal pretty loudly on any turn with the
car stopped. But any car makes a hissing/psh-ing noise when turned to
the limitss; that's the bypass valve opening. It could just me more
noticeable with brand new fluid, or you could have some air that hasn't
bled out after the flush.

hth,
GW

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, June 1, 2013 11:29:11 AM UTC-7, Geoff Welsh wrote:

...

> That video you linked to is quite good, not sure why you had any
>
> problems if you watched that, especially since he shows letting the
>
> tensioner spring-up all the slack in the belt in part 2.

(shrug) my first timing belt job... who knows. I was averaging several sets of information: the video, information from here, the Gates timing belt instructions, my Haynes manual, and the Factory Service Manual Mike was kind enough to send to me. Information overload I guess.

Now I am slightly worried the timing belt may fail from overtightening. The car drove 45 miles today with no problems other than the steering at extreme left/right tho.

> Not sure what tools you thought were special, they all looked basic to
>
> me.

The semi-deep sockets. Those are only available to mechanics, I think. I bought some 1/2-inch drive sockets, but those were too big.

> With Honda, OTOH, you DO need a special tool just to hold the
>
> crankshaft because the 4 cyls turn COUNTER-clockwise, unlike almost
>
> everyone else's. On V6 and DOHC engines, my own "special" tool is a
>
> couple of spring clips I got from old closet skirt hangers. (my
>
> grandma's) to hold the belt in a few places as I wind it around the rest.

Can't you just use an impact hammer? I got an electric one from Harbor Freight for $20; it runs off 12V. I laughed when I first used it... takes about one second between impacts, and I gave up using it for tire rotation jobs... then I remembered it when I took the crankshaft bolt off, and it worked. (The impact hammer broke in the middle of the job, but it was just a spring I was able to repair by pulling out one of the spring loops and re-connecting it.)

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html

> A loose PS belt will usually squeal pretty loudly on any turn with the
>
> car stopped. But any car makes a hissing/psh-ing noise when turned to
>
> the limitss; that's the bypass valve opening. It could just me more
>
> noticeable with brand new fluid, or you could have some air that hasn't
>
> bled out after the flush.

Ah, the noise to the extreme left/right sounds kind of like a rubbery squeal, like someone's slamming on the brakes or something.


>
>
>
> hth,
>
> GW


Helps a lot! Thanks!

Michael

[Geoff Welsh]

mrda...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, June 1, 2013 11:29:11 AM UTC-7, Geoff Welsh wrote:
>
>> Not sure what tools you thought were special
>

> The semi-deep sockets. Those are only available to mechanics, I
> think.
>

>> With Honda, OTOH, you DO need a special tool just to hold the
>> crankshaft because the 4 cyls turn COUNTER-clockwise,

> Can't you just use an impact hammer?

We mechanics all tried that years ago...then we all bought the tools.
The price has come down quite a bit along with greater availability. On
most engines, when an impact doesn't work, you can use a breaker bar,
and then "bump" the engine using the starter, but those 4cyl Honda's
turn CCW, so the bolt would just get tighter.

As for semi-deep sockets, I'm pretty sure Craftsman makes them too, not
just Snap-On.
and speaking of which...

ANYBODY, can walk up to a Snap-On truck and buy stuff, next time you see
one parked somewhere have a look!

GW

[mrda...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, June 1, 2013 11:09:34 PM UTC-7, Geoff Welsh wrote:
> mrda...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > On Saturday, June 1, 2013 11:29:11 AM UTC-7, Geoff Welsh wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> Not sure what tools you thought were special
>
> >
>
> > The semi-deep sockets. Those are only available to mechanics, I
>
> > think.
>
> >
>
> >> With Honda, OTOH, you DO need a special tool just to hold the
>
> >> crankshaft because the 4 cyls turn COUNTER-clockwise,
>
> > Can't you just use an impact hammer?
>
>
>
> We mechanics all tried that years ago...then we all bought the tools.
>
> The price has come down quite a bit along with greater availability. On
>
> most engines, when an impact doesn't work, you can use a breaker bar,
>
> and then "bump" the engine using the starter, but those 4cyl Honda's
>
> turn CCW, so the bolt would just get tighter.
>
>
>
> As for semi-deep sockets, I'm pretty sure Craftsman makes them too, not
>
> just Snap-On.

Yeah, Craftsman does; I read the comments on sears.com about semi-deep sockets and folks were complaining they were hard to find, offered for sale sometimes and not other times of the year... some folks said to try eBay but I wanted that bolt off quickly, and not have to wait another week for a part to arrive.

> and speaking of which...
>
>
>
> ANYBODY, can walk up to a Snap-On truck and buy stuff, next time you see
>
> one parked somewhere have a look!

Amazing... I'll keep it in mind!


>
>
>
> GW