2000 Camry Solara audio install guide
spam
most likely 2001) *WITH* the JBL audio system.
(It is possbile that this guide could apply to Solara's without
the JBL system -- variations would be the absence of the
amplifer harness described below. The basic disassembly of
the console would definitely apply, though)
First, the JBL option is a Panasonic built 6 CD changer/Cassette/AM-FM
radio with JBL-powered speakers. Previously, Toyota used Fujitsu-Ten
("Eclipse") for their radios (and their "Premium" sound option, which
was not co-branded with anybody). The switchover to Panasonic was
apparently during the 2000 year model. I've seen so-called 1999
models with Panasonic head units, but those may be late model
year builds.
The Fujitsu-Ten units were only offered with a single-CD/cassette/AM-FM
in the head unit, with CD changer controls for use with an external
changer. The Eclipse CD changers supposedly worked directly with the
head units, but don't quote me on that. There are plenty of mfgrs
who make interface converters that will allow, at the very least,
Panasonic(!) and Eclipse changers, possibly others. Consult your
reputable auto stereo dealer or the usual auto stereo interface
web page(s) (like PIE and AAMP-Stinger).
The Panasonic head unit is very easily uninstalled and the connectors
are standard Toyota '97-Present 2-connector setup, but this is NOT
obvious when you initially pull the unit out.
Tools needed are a 10mm socket wrench and a 9mm socket wrench. Also
a Phillips head screwdriver and an 11mm socket wrench is needed if
you rip out the JBL amp also (if you want to sell the whole
system on EBay).
Other things needed are a Toyota wiring harness adapter, AAMP part
BHA-1761 or Metra 70-1761. Also a 1-DIN pocket to put under the
radio, Metra 88-00-9000 or AAMP BKTN-2150(?!?) -- I am not sure
of that AAMP part.
First, the outer trim panel that makes up the center of the dashboard
is strictly a pull-out affair. Take the ashtray out completely, and
grabbing the plastic below the ashtray holder, start pulling gently.
Slide your fingers under and pull out as you run your fingers up the
complete center trim panel. DO NOT pull the panel out more than 2-4
inches YET. After you have the panel pulled off the console, unplug
starting from the top (squeezing the locking tabs inward towards the
connector) the clock power (white plug) and the emergency flasher
(black plug), then on the bottom of the panel unplug the cigarette
lighter light (small white plug), the lighter power (clear plug) and
the ashtray light assembly (small light on a black base). That should
be all the plugs on the center trim assembly. Remove out of the way.
Now, grab the 10mm socket wrench and start unscrewing the 4 bolts on
each corner of the radio head unit itself. After unscrewing the bolts,
pull the radio out and reach behind the radio and unplug the single
connector to the radio (same push in tab as above). The plug will be
in the middle of the radio. That takes care of the radio removal.
Now, you will see that you only have one loose connector that DOES NOT
look anything like the 2-connector wiring harness you bought. That
connector is the JBL amplifier connector. BUT, look inside the now
empty hole where the radio was. On the right side inside the hole will
be a white connector assembly. Pull the 2 connectors that go to the
assembly (again using the push-in tabs). You now are holding the
Toyota standard 2-connector radio wiring harness. That is where you
connect your AAMP or Metra wiring harness adapter. You have basically
disconnected the JBL amplifier.
****
Do you want to uninstall the JBL amp (to sell the complete system on
EBay)??? STOP HERE and go to the instructions at the end of this.
****
Now, wire the new head-unit you just bought to the AAMP/Metra harness
adapter. I personally use intermediate Molex connectors just in case
I change head units (and I do!). The harness will NOT require the
antenna power connector (the antenna[s] are in the rear window), so
it's best to leave this lead wrapped in electrical tape (cut the
extra bare wire off first) or stick it in a plastic terminator.
Also, use the dimmer lead on the harness adapter, not the "dimmer
ground" or "illumination" power lead.
You will NOT need the "cage" that came with you new head unit. Put
it back in the box.
2 antenna leads were used for the stock radio. This was used as a
diversity system. If you have a diversity radio, then no problem.
Otherwise, wrap the small antenna lead in electrical tape and stuff
into the back of the open hole.
TEST the new head unit before you start reassembly! BTW: The turn
signals do not work without being connected to the emergency blinker
switch -- so no, you did not blow a fuse!
Now, stop here. Outside the car, grab the old stock head unit. Grab
the 9mm socket wrench and remove the 4 screws that hold a metal bracket
on the side of the radio. Do the same on the opposite end. Put the
radio aside.
Now, back to your radio. Take the metal brackets you just removed
from the stock radio and mount them on the side of your new head unit.
Most, if not all head units will have screw holes that will align up
with the bracket holes. Use the screws that came off the old radio
to use on the new head unit. You will only need 2 of the original
screws. Put the completed head unit and bracket assembly in the
dashboard just to make sure it's aligned properly. Take the
assembly back out.
Now, loosen the brackets ever so slightly. Take the 1-DIN pocket
and position it underneath the radio. The Metra pocket I have had
alignment holes that matched the brackets perfectly and I did not
have to use the old screws. Tighten the brackets back up keeping
the pocket properly aligned.
Now, with the wiring connected up (and radio tested), put the complete
assembly back into the console and using the 10mm socket wrench screw
the assembly back in. Again, test the system to make sure you didn't
short any wires.
Now, reverse the disassembly of the center trim panel above. When
pushing the panel back into the dashboard, BE CAREFUL to do this
slowly as the openings have felt padding on them -- especially around
the radio and radio pocket. You may need to help guide the panel
opening around the radio assembly.
That's about it for the radio installation.
****
Disassembly of the JBL amplifier subsystem.
The JBL amplifier is located behind the glovebox against the firewall
on the passenger side. The complete system compromises the radio/CD
changer head unit, the wiring adapter subassembly, the JBL amplifier
and the amplifier holding bracket.
First, you will need your phillips screwdriver and 11mm socket wrench.
Underneath the glovebox is a panel that covers everything against the
front firewall. This pops out -- the clips being at the front, away
from the firewall. Pop this panel out and put it aside. Next,
open your glovebox and take everything out. Unscrew the 3 phillips
screws on the top of the glovebox opening. Now, underneath the
glovebox on the left side, unscrew the phillips screw there.
Now look on your far right side and against the firewall, underneath
the glovebox. There will be a black plastic "cap" that holds the
side wall trim panel. This unscrews by hand -- unscrew it. Now
look near the doorjamb where the running board trim plastic ends.
Grab that and pop it up. That is held by the sidewall trim panel
you just unscrewed. At the same time, move that sidewall trim out.
You just exposed a copper colored bolt. That is the last glovebox
screw. Unscrew this using the 11mm socket wrench. Now the glovebox
is being held by 2 tabs on the top of the assembly. Last is a
small wiring harness that is attached to the glovebox itself
on a pop-out door. Get a dime or similar flat bladed screwdriver,
look inside the glove box on the left side near the top and you
will see the small door (2" by 3"). Pop that open -- the
wire harness will be attached to that door. Push the whole
door/harness assembly back into the hole sideways (i.e.: you're
moving it out of the way). Now, grab the top of the glovebox and
gently pop it out -- off the top 2 tabs. The box then can be
totally removed. Put it out of the way.
Now look into the glovebox opening. Continue to the back firewall.
On the right side you will see 2 metal housings that are about 1 1/2"
wide by 5" tall. The rightmost one will be the amplifier. It
should be marked JBL. The other metal box is the car computer
-- BE CAREFUL with this box. This is the brains of the car.
Disconnect the 2 wiring connectors from the amplifier. Take your
9mm socket wrench and an extension and unscrew the 2 bolts that
hold the bracket for the amplifier (one on top and one on the bottom).
The amplifier should come right out now. Put it out of the way.
Next, you will need to remove the wiring subassembly. The
2 connectors that were on the amplifier run together as one
fabric wrapped wire bundle. There are about 5 plastic holders
for the wiring run to the radio location, and all of them
(except for one) are squeeze tab type holders that cars are so
famous for. Pliers help if you don't have small enough fingers.
The wiring bundle terminates on the 2-connector white assembly
in the radio opening, and that assembly is also held by a squeeze
tab holder. That comes out also. Patience and care are needed
here as you remove the holders and wiring assembly.
After you remove the wiring subassembly, reverse the glovebox
removal above.
-> Now, you have the complete stereo system that makes up the
JBL option. The radio itself may not appeal to the average
car audio enthusiast as radio has limited high-end
performance and a low-end crossover that is fairly high.
This may be compensation for the awful acoustics of the
Solara and the matching JBL low-end speakers.
The best resale for the system is to another Solara
or Camry owner, most likely 1999 or newer. It will be a
straight reverse of the above. Speaker upgrades for such
installations are highly recommended as the stock OEM speakers
will not take the high volumes very well :)
Other Toyota's are possible. Remember that this is a "double-DIN"
sized radio unit. A quick look shows the same wiring
harness used as far back as 1987. The only caveats here are
common-ground speaker systems. I think this is a thing of the
past with modern cars, but YMMV. The amplifier will need a
mounting location, and considering the small size, you should
not have a problem. The amplifier holding bracket looks like
it is removed by some allen-wrench screws, and that will make
the amplifier easier to reintegrate in another car.
Installation in other auto makes again requires a double-DIN
size, and also a "reverse" wiring harness (both AAMP and Metra
make such reverse harnesses, AAMP part BHO-1761 and Metra
71-1761). The unit has no "cage" to facilitate installation,
so you will need to find a double-DIN cage and drill side
holes to re-screw the original mounting screws -- maybe there
is such a cage ready made? Ask your dealer to let you look
at the full AAMP or Metra catalogs and see what you can find.
Now, go back where you left off above and continue with your
new head unit install.
*****
rmg
kittyranma at my-deja dot com
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spam
The car I described is the SLE model with auto temp controls. The SE
model *may* require removal of the A/C dials before you can take
out the center dash assembly. Check while you disassemble.
Also, you can kiss your trim ring goodbye. The problem with the
dash assembly is that the radio is indented into the dash, and so
placement of any trim ring is next to impossible as the indentation
is in the way. Have fun cutting and/or sanding your trim ring
to size :)
rmg
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