To Slick 50, or not to Slick 50? That is the question.
Michael Smith
I am wondering peoples thoughts on the oil additive, slick 50. I
have used it in every car i have ever owned. including my first new
car, a 96 Sunfire GT. I put it in at the first oil change, and
again at 50,000 miles. I sold it with 75,000 miles and never had a
problem. i of course, can not say that slick 50 is the reason,
but.... it was a Pontiac after all.
Anyway, with the modern advances in engines, should i? or shouldn't i?
thanks,
Mike
Tony Hwang
If you want to throw away money.
More bluntly, I question your intelligence.
Tony
Don Nickell
and stick with Valvoline--5-30 from 0-100F. I take it back, I did have
a problem went to a local quick lube once and they put in 20-50 and piston
slap started and Subaru eventually gave me a warrantee short block. The
manual is there to READ.
As for Slick50, Winn's Friction Proofing, condensed milk, etc. DON'T. The
engine will never break in. GM products are broken in at birth and wear
out from there.
--
~~~~~
Visit our NICKELL, GAUNCE, MOOTY genealogy Web Page
http://nickell.tierranet.com
~~~~~
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Rick Courtright
> I am wondering peoples thoughts on the oil additive, slick 50. I
Well, even though I'm a sucker for "mechanic in a can" claims, and do
use a few additives on a regular basis, let's look at Slick 50: it
contains Teflon, and DuPont, who makes Teflon, repeatedly warns the
stuff's NOT for use in engines. I understand there have been many
lawsuits (I'm sure Google can enlighten you), but DuPont hasn't been
able to stop the "improper" use of its product, so Slick 50's still
going, Fram still puts Teflon in one of their oil filter lines, etc.
Personally, I think it's a waste of money. With today's engines, even
those wonders of longevity from GM, 75k is not much of a test of oil or
additives assuming regular changes IMO. But it's your money...
Rick
--
To e-mail me is easy: if you send no SPAM in the message, you need no
SPAM in the address.
Howard R. Silverstein
would never use Slick 50 just because of the Teflon issues.
~Howard
Don Nickell
Rick Courtright wrote:
>
> Michael Smith wrote:
>
> > I am wondering peoples thoughts on the oil additive, slick 50. I
>
> Well, even though I'm a sucker for "mechanic in a can" claims, and do
> use a few additives on a regular basis, let's look at Slick 50: it
> contains Teflon, and DuPont, who makes Teflon, repeatedly warns the
> stuff's NOT for use in engines. I understand there have been many
> lawsuits (I'm sure Google can enlighten you), but DuPont hasn't been
> able to stop the "improper" use of its product, so Slick 50's still
> going, Fram still puts Teflon in one of their oil filter lines, etc.
>
> Personally, I think it's a waste of money. With today's engines, even
> those wonders of longevity from GM, 75k is not much of a test of oil or
> additives assuming regular changes IMO. But it's your money...
>
> Rick
> --
In the "Did you know?" department: Did you know that Teflon is even in
the new Clorox bathroom cleaner? Make shit slide right out of your
toilet bowl to keep it clean. It really works! So if you have shit in
your engine then by all means use Slick50 and other products with Teflon
in it.
Edward Hayes
putting it in a lawn mower engine running it and then draining the oil. With
no oil they ran the engine for X? hours with no problems. Some outfit
(Consumers reports I think) repeated the same test without Slick-50 and
there was no difference. From what I have read (not from Advertisements) it
appears that Teflon is not a bad thing but, as with most things it must be
used in the proper form and suspended in a dispersing medium such as Teflon
+ oil in a filter. eddie
"Howard R. Silverstein" <howard.si...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:3F4D81D3...@verizon.net...
Jon Sturgeon
wrote:
I'll repeat the same thing I posted to alt.autos.toyota on the 28th of
this month:
The FTC sued Quaker State for making false and misleading claims in
their marketing for Slick 50:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.htm
...likewise for other companies in this business:
http://www.ftc.gov/os/2000/03/motorupanalysis.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/prolong.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2000/03/motor.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/12/stp.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/os/1998/01/ashlandcmp.htm
...etc
A Google search produces literally hundreds of similar cases. Maybe
there is an oil additive available that performs some useful function,
but I wouldn't put money on it.
Jon
Theo McCormick
It may be snake oil but. I have used it in a number of high mileage cars and
it seems to work. I have an air cooled VW motor with 175k miles and no
problems, not even a valve job. Our 89 Maxima with 260k miles. I sold it to
a neibor and he is going for 300k. My old Suzuki samara with 190k miles.
Sold it to my father in law and he still drives her hard. All of these cars
were treated with Slick 50 and have shown phenomenal wear. My 2002 WRX will
receive a treatment when it gets up to 30k miles or so. I would not put
Slick 50 in a low mileage engine.
From my experience I would have to say Slick 50 works.
I ran an automobile repair station in the past and have built and repaired
many motors. My first experience with Slick 50 was in a friends van. He had
treated the van with slick 50 about a month previously. He decided to try to
drain the oil and drive the car to see what would happen. I think he was
hoping the van would blow so his Dad could buy him a new car. Well we drove
the van for close to 90 miles with no failure. It was amazing. We finally
went to an auto parts store and bought a new drain plug and oil. He sold the
van around a year later.
Theo
"Edward Hayes" <hay...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:Qsn3b.118339$3o3.8...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Jim Stewart
> Ok, i am drawing near my first oil change in my shiny new 03 Forester.
> I am wondering peoples thoughts on the oil additive, slick 50. I
> have used it in every car i have ever owned. including my first new
> car, a 96 Sunfire GT. I put it in at the first oil change, and
> again at 50,000 miles. I sold it with 75,000 miles and never had a
> problem. i of course, can not say that slick 50 is the reason,
> but.... it was a Pontiac after all.
A Subaru at 75K is just broken in (:
Don't waste your money. Name brand dino oil is fine, Mobil 1
is better. That's all you need.
Rick Courtright
> hoping the van would blow so his Dad could buy him a new car. Well we drove
> the van for close to 90 miles with no failure. It was amazing. We finally
Hmmmm...
I've heard these kinds of stories for years. But having never seen one
of these "tests" firsthand, I'm still skeptical. Sorry.
This weekend (Labor Day) we'll be heading out to the desert for a day
trip. About 150 miles at 100-110 deg F temps, open freeway most of the
way (read: "fast traffic"), including a nice long grade out of Indio, CA
toward Blythe on I-10. Those of you from SoCal probably know the grade
to Chiriaco Summit. The rest area near the top is just about 90 miles
from my house.
Wanna come on out and duplicate this test using one of your vehicles
with us as witnesses? We'll be happy to give you a ride home. Towing the
vehicle home's on your dime. Of course, any property damage or personal
injury caused by getting run over when the engine seizes are your own
responsibility, too. :D
BTW, my '73 914's approaching 200k miles, my Subie's got 337k, my last
VW (Rabbit) had 189k when I sold it, blah, blah: all run on dino oil, no
Slick 50, no excessive wear due to lack of lubrication. YMMV, of course!
Rick
EQ Shaman
oil for longer life (Amsoil is my favorite, but there are many other good
brands out there)
"Michael Smith" <yeah...@nonya.com> wrote in message
news:r2sqkv82hem76hd41...@4ax.com...
Theo McCormick
car.
I lost the oil in a VW motor when the oil filter blew. It ran for 15 seconds
then seized up. It was not treated with Slick 50 and the motor was new.
Theo
"Rick Courtright" <rcour...@iname.SPAMcom> wrote in message
news:3F4E32C5...@iname.SPAMcom...
Theo McCormick
have additives in them. Oil additives are not 'BAD' by design. Some of them
may not help increase motor life but may keep your engine cleaner or reduce
foaming.
My understanding of Sick 50 is that it is an engine treatment not an oil
additive. It is not supposed to be run all the time. This treatment seems to
reduce wear during start up, nothing more. I have been curious to tear down
a motor treated with Slick 50 to check the bearing wear. So far none of the
motors I've treated have failed.
I don't sell or represent any automotive products. The fact that the
manufacturer was sued has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the
product. The fact that the manufacturer made claims that the FTC disagreed
with is a marketing blunder not an outright statement that the product is
bad.
Theo
"Jon Sturgeon" <Jo...@futuresoft.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:5k8skvkjk5srjveba...@4ax.com...
Michael Smith
if i will do it or not. there is always that chance that it will
help, even if just a little. and if so, isn't it worth the cost of an
oil chnage from one of the "quickie" places. Since i change the oil
myself, i save $20 every time i change the oil. well a little less,
with a new filter etc. ..
but the point is, isn't it worth it, even if just for piece of mind.
But i have to concur. i did , after all read the lawsuit links
posted, it probably is just snake oil. :(
Thanks for your thoughts,
Mike
On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 13:54:48 -0500, "EQ Shaman" <xan...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Don Nickell
Theo McCormick wrote:
>
> Humm,
>
> It may be snake oil but. I have used it in a number of high mileage cars and
> it seems to work. I have an air cooled VW motor with 175k miles and no
> problems, not even a valve job. Our 89 Maxima with 260k miles. I sold it to
> a neibor and he is going for 300k. My old Suzuki samara with 190k miles.
> Sold it to my father in law and he still drives her hard. All of these cars
> were treated with Slick 50 and have shown phenomenal wear. My 2002 WRX will
> receive a treatment when it gets up to 30k miles or so.
> I would not put Slick 50 in a low mileage engine.
Hear here! and possibly vice versa. I put something simliar in the tranny of
my "new" '88 Carrera with 50K miles and 6 months later the tranny started
leaking. I think it was RedLine or something simliar. I contacted RedLine and
they said, "Yup! Don't do that! Use Kendall instead."
FWIW.
Tony Hwang
Don Nickell wrote:
>
> Theo McCormick wrote:
>
>>Humm,
>>
>>It may be snake oil but. I have used it in a number of high mileage cars and
>>it seems to work. I have an air cooled VW motor with 175k miles and no
>>problems, not even a valve job. Our 89 Maxima with 260k miles. I sold it to
>>a neibor and he is going for 300k. My old Suzuki samara with 190k miles.
>>Sold it to my father in law and he still drives her hard. All of these cars
>>were treated with Slick 50 and have shown phenomenal wear. My 2002 WRX will
>>receive a treatment when it gets up to 30k miles or so.
>
>
>>I would not put Slick 50 in a low mileage engine.
>
>
> Hear here! and possibly vice versa. I put something simliar in the tranny of
> my "new" '88 Carrera with 50K miles and 6 months later the tranny started
> leaking. I think it was RedLine or something simliar. I contacted RedLine and
> they said, "Yup! Don't do that! Use Kendall instead."
>
> FWIW.
Hi,
And you used Kendall, it started leak, you called Kendall, they said,
"Yup, don't do that. Use Redline instead"
LOL,
Tony
Don Nickell
Tony Hwang wrote:
>
> Don Nickell wrote:
>
> >
> > Theo McCormick wrote:
> >
> >>Humm,
> >>
> >>It may be snake oil but. I have used it in a number of high mileage cars and
> >>it seems to work. I have an air cooled VW motor with 175k miles and no
> >>problems, not even a valve job. Our 89 Maxima with 260k miles. I sold it to
> >>a neibor and he is going for 300k. My old Suzuki samara with 190k miles.
> >>Sold it to my father in law and he still drives her hard. All of these cars
> >>were treated with Slick 50 and have shown phenomenal wear. My 2002 WRX will
> >>receive a treatment when it gets up to 30k miles or so.
> >
> >
> >>I would not put Slick 50 in a low mileage engine.
> >
> >
> > Hear here! and possibly vice versa. I put something simliar in the tranny of
> > my "new" '88 Carrera with 50K miles and 6 months later the tranny started
> > leaking. I think it was RedLine or something simliar. I contacted RedLine and
> > they said, "Yup! Don't do that! Use Kendall instead."
> >
> > FWIW.
> Hi,
> And you used Kendall, it started leak, you called Kendall, they said,
> "Yup, don't do that. Use Redline instead"
> LOL,
> Tony
I don't get it, Tony. I fail to find any humor in your reply, much less
any logic.
UserEddie214
Ed Hayes:
>From what I have read (not from Advertisements) it
>appears that Teflon is not a bad thing but, as with
>most things it must be used in the proper form and
>suspended in a dispersing medium such as Teflon
>+ oil in a filter. eddie
This thing can be poisonous, for example to birds.
Humans also, but to a lesser degree.
Ask anyone who has an exotic bird, like myself.
The first thing you do before even bringing a pet bird
home is get rid of all Teflon covered frying pans etc.
Anything that can potentially be heated to extreme
temperatures and is covered with teflon is a great
NO,NO!
Teflon when heated to extreme temperatures, for
example as when you carelessly leave your frying pan
on the burner for too long, gives off some very nasty
fumes.
Anyone with Teflon in his engine is going to be producing
and spilling this dangerous junk into the environment.
I wonder why they even allow this thing to be put into
something like an engine?
s.z.
EQ Shaman
"Don Nickell" <dnic...@icehouse.net> wrote in message
news:3F4F1CD0...@icehouse.net...
and not to try it again....and then vice-versa
Jim Stewart
I'm not really sure why you've turned this into a
generallized rant about teflon. Teflon is absolutely
not toxic to birds unless heated to over 500 F.
I've hatched and raised several clutches of healthy
and happy parakeets in the same kitchen/living room
as I've cooked with teflon pans. My lovebird has never
had a problem with it either.
If your engine oil approaches 500 F you have more serious
problems than the breakdown of teflon.
http://www.busybeaks.com/QA%20teflon.pdf
UserEddie214
>UserEddie214 wrote:
>>Anyone with Teflon in his engine is going to be producing
>>and spilling this dangerous junk into the environment.
>>I wonder why they even allow this thing to be put into
>>something like an engine?
>
>I'm not really sure why you've turned this into a
>generallized rant about teflon.
Generalized?
I thought I was talking about Teflon being
poisonous when overheated to extreme temps.
>Teflon is absolutely not toxic to birds unless
>heated to over 500 F.
>I've hatched and raised several clutches of healthy
>and happy parakeets in the same kitchen/living room
>as I've cooked with teflon pans. My lovebird has never
>had a problem with it either.
This just tells that you've been lucky never to overheat
your Teflon covered pan.
>If your engine oil approaches 500 F you have more
>serious problems than the breakdown of teflon.
Parts of the engine (piston crowns, rings, etc.)
can reach extremely high temperatures. These
would be covered with Slick50 and Teflon and
would produce noxious fumes, deadly to birds
and also harmful to man.
Isn't there already enough poison in the air
most of us breathe? Why introduce yet another
deadly substance?
s.z.
null_p...@nowhere.com.net.edu.gov.de
I think all of is academic in the face of the fact that DuPont, the
inventor of Teflon, has said that it is not supposed to be used in
engines. End of arguments.
TG
TG
Don Nickell
Teflon first became popular in the early '50's. I was working at
Northup in Inglewood at the time in an R&D group that included
machinists as well as electronicers etc. One of the machinists
died suddenly and the autopsy came back "poisoned". Turned out
that teflon contains a florine compound. Chips from a block he
was turning on a lathe got in his cigarettes in his shirt pocket.
When a cig burns it can approach 1,000 degrees F. That's about
500 degrees greater than needed to produce florine gas from the
teflon.
Other than that there's no problems with teflon.
This true story has been brought to you by and old man that
knows all, but can't remember much of what he knew...
Don
Don Nickell
"D.K." wrote:
>
> In article <binuhn$p...@library2.airnews.net>, jste...@jkmicro.com wrote:
> >
> >I'm not really sure why you've turned this into a
> >generallized rant about teflon.
> ..
> >If your engine oil approaches 500 F you have more serious
> >problems than the breakdown of teflon.
>
> LOL. Very true.
>
> These days, in every industry, Teflon is as essential as a
> regular plastic like polyethylene.
>
> DK
Other than the toilet bowl spray w/Teflon (that works well, BTW)
there's also a great light lubricant, Tri-Flow, in a black/yellow can,
with Teflon. My bicycle mechanic suggested it for general purpose use
and it really works well. Many people suggest WD-40, that not all that
great as a lubricant (Water Displacement, yes), I find this Tri-Flow
and excellent substitute.
William S. Hubbard
William S. Hubbard
"UserEddie214" <usered...@cs.com> wrote in message
news:20030829070244...@mb-m17.news.cs.com...
Don Nickell
"William S. Hubbard" wrote:
>
> Marvel Mystery Oil has unstuck many a stubborn valve or lifter..
Hmmm... And how did that valve or lifter get stuck in the first place?
Lack of proper lubrication with something like Valvoline or Castrol GTX.
Also, on an engine with "hours" Marvel or Wynn's will disolve some of the
carbon deposits and cause piston blow-by and burning oil.
Don
Edward Hayes
bowl for years. He does act squirrelly at times though. Could it be the
Teflon? I would never put my beloved cat in danger like roasting him at 500
+ degrees in a Teflon skillet. Just my thoughts as this thread is so funny.
eddie
"William S. Hubbard" <bi...@villadelerium.com> wrote in message
news:1W24b.305363$o%2.138970@sccrnsc02...
Rick Courtright
> Hmmm... And how did that valve or lifter get stuck in the first place?
> Lack of proper lubrication with something like Valvoline or Castrol GTX.
Hmmmm... right back at ya! Now you've got me confused: do you or do you
NOT like Valvoline? Compare your comment above with one of your earlier
posts--
"We sold our '97 OB with 60K miles and never had a problem. Avoid
additives
and stick with Valvoline--5-30 from 0-100F. I take it back, I did
have..."
???
Sticky lifters MAY be the result of improper lubrication in any engine
design, but using hydraulic lifters in a flat engine seems to have
caused more than average numbers of problems since at least the days of
Corvairs. I'm not sure anyone's ever really solved it 100%.
Rick
--
To e-mail me is easy: if you send no SPAM in the message, you need no
SPAM in the address.
Don Nickell
Rick Courtright wrote:
>
> Don Nickell wrote:
>
> > Hmmm... And how did that valve or lifter get stuck in the first place?
> > Lack of proper lubrication with something like Valvoline or Castrol GTX.
>
> Hmmmm... right back at ya! Now you've got me confused: do you or do you
> NOT like Valvoline? Compare your comment above with one of your earlier
> posts--
Hmmm...Hmmm... back at you. <smile> Sorry for the confusion.
I used Valvoline for years in my AJS single 500cc thumper with no problems,
even while laying it down and sucking sand in the carb. I used Castrol GTX
in my '88 Carrera and the local Sub dealer does too.
> "We sold our '97 OB with 60K miles and never had a problem. Avoid
> additives
> and stick with Valvoline--5-30 from 0-100F. I take it back, I did
> have..."
>
> Sticky lifters MAY be the result of improper lubrication in any engine
> design, but using hydraulic lifters in a flat engine seems to have
> caused more than average numbers of problems since at least the days of
> Corvairs. I'm not sure anyone's ever really solved it 100%.
Didn't know that, Rick. I didn't even know the valves were hydros in the
Sub; they definately weren't in the Carrera. At 80K mi you could still
see the factory hone marks in the cylinder walls when the new buyer had
it taken apart for pre-purchase exam. That sold me on Castrol GTX.
>
> Rick
Patrick Lee
problems and I run it very hard. Of course you will want to use a
lighter weight oil in colder weather. Anyway
the engine has 160k miles on it and I expect it to run another 160k or
more on
Castrol. Iam not a believer in Slick 50 or
any other synthetic oil because I believe that oil should be changed
every 1500 to
3000 miles depending on climate and other driving conditions. I don't
believe
that synthetic oils give any better protection with respect to heat
dissipation
etc. Any engine especially carbureted engines build up some dirt and
sludge
in the oil pan and other parts of the engine----personally I want to get
that stuff out---which is alo why it is a good
idea to not only drain oil on a regular basis but to clean the oil pan
from time to
time.