'58 289 flightomatic rear engine seal

[jab-ph]

Just acquired a '58 PH, flightomatic and the rear engine seal is really
losing it, about a quart every 150 miles. Plus, upon stopping there
this ugly, embarrassing spot to disclose I've been there. I avoid
parking in anyone's driveway.

I can't locate my shop manual and wonder what the wisdom of the NG is to
replace the seal, any tips/tricks?

[Nate Nagel]

Unfortunately, I think the easy way to do this involves pulling the
drivetrain, separating the engine and trans, getting the engine on a
stand, and flipping it upside down.

Even more unfortunately, this plan involves lots of "while you're in
theres" (ask me how I know this.)

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
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[Young Captain]

I'm clueless, how DO you know this?
Matthew (just kiddin) Burnette

[Grumpy AuContraire]

Most likely that leak is the pan gasket. Studebaker rear seals rarely
leak. The front seal is another story though...

JT

[jab-ph]

So, I hope that the pan can be removed and replaced with the engine in situ?

[Nate Nagel]

Sure, it's just easier to work on it with the engine out. It's the
removing and replacing the pan that is the hard part, honestly. To give
yourself room to work, remove the starter and also maybe take the
bellcrank off the center pivot of the steering, and drop the center
pivot out of the crossmember (you'll need to remove the long grease
fitting.) Hopefully that's all you'll need to do to get the pan out,
although you might have to jack up the engine and put some blocks of
wood under the mounts if you are using "R3" style motor mounts.

If you are determined to R&R the pan in the car, the rear main is almost
there at that point. However if the front of the torque converor and
flexplate are dry it's probably the pan gasket. (you'll be able to see
better once you get the pan off and also the little splash shields; you
will probably want to remove and paint those since you'll be right there
and they'll be much easier to get off with the pan out of the way.)

nate

[Grumpy AuContraire]

Yep.

In order to drop the pan, you must remove the starter, drop the exhaust
(if only a single exhaust), and remove the front steering bellcrank
assembly and slide the bell crank off to the side.

After dropping the pan, remove the oil pump and drop the rear bearing
cap. Most likely, the protruding crankshaft section after the seal will
be dry which will confirm the tired oil pan gasket.

An aggresive oil drip on my old Avanti (especially when running) turned
out to be a bad pan gasket.

JT

[teddy bear]

I agree with Grumpy. It is the pan gasket. Try this first. Drain the
oil. Then invest in a can of aerosol brake cleaner, and squirt - and
squirt - and squirt - etc.which will remove any and all outside grease,
dirt and oil. In fact I use the whole can. Allow this to dry - which
won't take long, Then what I do is to purchase s long handled 1/2"
paint brush. I then apply blue silicone sealer very liberally [on the
U shaped pan area and the engine block] using the brush to daub the
sealer up into the 3/4" crack between the pan and the bell housing
plate. I try to let the whole ball of wax set for 24 hours. Then fill
the engine up with your favorite oil and see if the leak han't stopped.
I have done several V-8's using this method and most recently my OHV-6
mega miler. The results [at least for me] have been VERY satisfactory.

[jimm...@yahoo.com]

I just succesfully replaced the rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my
63 G.T. this weekend. Shure is nice without the leaks. It still leaked
after reassembly and then I found that the rubber line from the block
to the metal line for the oil pressure gauge was leaking. Oh well, at
least I have a new seal and pan gasket,even if I didn't need it. I hate
when that happens. The old seal looked great. I won't make that mistake
again. Also had to shorten the new cork seal for the rear part of the
pan about 1/2 inch as it was too long to fit in the channel. I did not
have to remove the steering bell crank but to do a Lark it is probably
so. If you would like some tips over the phone,e-mail me your phone
number to{ jimmijim8 at yahoo dot com }I have free long distance, and
will call you and give some support if you like. jimmijim

[jab-ph]

jab-ph wrote:
> So, I hope that the pan can be removed and replaced with the engine in
> situ?
>

>>

>>> Just acquired a '58 PH, flightomatic and the rear engine seal is really
>>> losing it, about a quart every 150 miles. Plus, upon stopping there
>>> this ugly, embarrassing spot to disclose I've been there. I avoid
>>> parking in anyone's driveway.
>>>
>>> I can't locate my shop manual and wonder what the wisdom of the NG is to
>>> replace the seal, any tips/tricks?

Guys,
Thanks for all your thoughts on this issue! I'm going to delay this
project for a bit but will then revisit it within a month. So I'll keep
all these tips and put them to good use at that time.

[Webjak]

replying to Grumpy AuContraire, Webjak wrote:
LOL, Studebaker rear main seal is a notorious leaker.

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for full context, visit http://www.motorsforum.com/studebaker/58-289-flightomatic-rear-engine-seal-1545-.htm

[fairborns...@gmail.com]

I agree with Grumpy the pan is more of the problem although the rear main can leak and should always be replaced if the pan is off.