What a BARGAIN!
Georgia Studebaker
Unless there's something hiding in those pictures that I can't see, this car
would be a super deal at the BIN price!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438852527&category=6466
I would do a few things to pep up that 6-banger, and enjoy the mess out of
that car!
One of you guys should buy it, and then sell it to me in two years, when my
mortgage will be paid off!
--
Dave Miller,
South Ga. S.D.C.
www.georgiastudebaker.com
John Poulos
http://imageevent.com/xfactor/starliner
It'll need a 2-3K paint job, some interior work and it's a six, so it'll
be a close deal when you are done. I almost jumped myself, until I ran
the numbers. <g>
Georgia Studebaker wrote:
> I am loving this '55!
>
> Unless there's something hiding in those pictures that I can't see, this car
> would be a super deal at the BIN price!
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438852527&category=6466
>
> I would do a few things to pep up that 6-banger, and enjoy the mess out of
> that car!
>
> One of you guys should buy it, and then sell it to me in two years, when my
> mortgage will be paid off!
>
>
>
--
JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
55 President sedan
63 R2 4 speed Daytona HT(Md.keeper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R3 clone(Md.keeper)
63 Avanti (Cheap Avanti)
65 Commander Wagonaire
Georgia Studebaker
I have not ever had a car painted, so I'm out of touch. I defer to your
expertise on this, and most Stude matters...
I'd think you could have that seat re-upholstered for about $175. That's a
So. Ga. price, though. I know things are more expensive in the North and
West.
Still, the six cylinder ought to go as fast as I'd need to!
Grumpy au Contraire
JT
--
John Poulos
clear coat if I strip all the trim off the car and the paint on the car
can be scuff sanded. ( Material alone can be over $1000.) This car, with
it's peeling paint would require stripping.
As to the seats, it's $500-$900 labor just to repad and install NOS
or my covers. If you can get a machine sewn pleated seat cover made and
installed for $175, it'll be worth a drive south. <g>
What are you guys paying in different parts of the country ?
Georgia Studebaker wrote:
> Really think the paint job would approach $3,000?
>
> I have not ever had a car painted, so I'm out of touch. I defer to your
> expertise on this, and most Stude matters...
>
> I'd think you could have that seat re-upholstered for about $175. That's a
> So. Ga. price, though. I know things are more expensive in the North and
> West.
>
> Still, the six cylinder ought to go as fast as I'd need to!
>
--
Alex M
don't last to many year. All those little rust spot need to be fixed
which means taking off the rear fender on one side and probably both
would be better. The spot on the door would needs fixing and once again
probably both doors should be cleaned and prepped inside with Por15
products. I would also want to remove the front fender and treat them.
Still, overall it's in great shape.
Alex M
"Georgia Studebaker" <daflex2003(RemoveThis)@isoa.net> wrote in message
news:oNednYpp3cb...@cybersouth.com...
Bob Kay
for. And while a 6 WILL do the national speed limit, you have to be patient
about achieving it. :p
Georgia Studebaker <daflex2003(RemoveThis)@isoa.net> wrote in message
news:oNednYpp3cb...@cybersouth.com...
Georgia Studebaker
These prices are giving me heart palpitations!
Nate Nagel
for a BC/CC job on my car, no rust, just a few dents and a little work
on the rear panel and aligning a NOS trunk lid. I stripped the car
myself, there was zippy trim on it when it arrived at the body shop.
nate
John Poulos wrote:
> That's a fairly cheap paint job around here. I pay $2500 for color coat
> clear coat if I strip all the trim off the car and the paint on the car
> can be scuff sanded. ( Material alone can be over $1000.) This car, with
> it's peeling paint would require stripping.
> As to the seats, it's $500-$900 labor just to repad and install NOS or
> my covers. If you can get a machine sewn pleated seat cover made and
> installed for $175, it'll be worth a drive south. <g>
> What are you guys paying in different parts of the country ?
>
> Georgia Studebaker wrote:
>
>> Really think the paint job would approach $3,000?
>>
>> I have not ever had a car painted, so I'm out of touch. I defer to your
>> expertise on this, and most Stude matters...
>>
>> I'd think you could have that seat re-upholstered for about $175.
>> That's a
>> So. Ga. price, though. I know things are more expensive in the North and
>> West.
>>
>> Still, the six cylinder ought to go as fast as I'd need to!
>>
>
--
remove "horny" from my email address to reply.
http://www.toad.net/~njnagel
bob40
be all of 10k and a wait.Shops would rather do collisions,cant blame
them.There are always the guys who paint on the side and some do quite nice
work for less...but it's caveat emptor! I could tell you a story that would
send shivers down your spine about trying to save a buck on a paint job
Bob40
Bob Kay
the body guy I used to use enough to where I think I can do it. Especially
BC / CC approach. The car needs a few dings fixed but there's no rust repair
to do save for right under the driver's feet - and that don't matter so far
as the bodywork goes.
Nate Nagel <njn...@hornytoad.net> wrote in message
news:xDYlb.35$qv6.1...@news.abs.net...
John Poulos
--
John Poulos
--
Rob Stokes
Rob
--
Remove CC for email and please visit our web site:
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:IZ6dnVeHm5g...@comcast.com...
barry
"Bob Kay" <stud...@clearskye.net> wrote in message
news:da3e80d65d6c0f38...@news.teranews.com...
Mike W
>for. And while a 6 WILL do the national speed limit, you have to be patient
>about achieving it. :p
Most of the painters at MACCO are pretty good. After all they paint ten times
the number of cars most painters do. I've had a few painted there and an extra
$20 tip to the painter does wonders. What they don't do well is the prep work.
If you can prep it yourself, remove all the trim and then just have them shoot
the paint job you probably get a good deal. I had them do my daughter's Dodge
and it is still looking good after 4 years.
Mike W.
Packard Hawk
Sonny
expensive, and best base coat, factory color paint on my car. I've NEVER
seen materials go over $1,000.00 for any "standard" paint job. WATCH MY LIPS
FELLAS, that is the TOTAL amount it costs for enough materials to paint a
car, every other penny you spend is LABOR. Red paint for some reason is very
expensive, but even that has been getting less expensive lately. So don't be
sucked in about how expensive materials are. The clear coat is clear coat,
the only difference would be if you wanted the clear tinted. Now paints like
the wild, spectrum changing colors are THOUSANDS of dollars a gallon, but
how many "standard" Studebakers do you see with that paint on 'em?
Anyway, my point is, you can have the most killer paint job on the planet IF
you can or IF you're not too lazy to provide a good portion of the labor to
do the MOST important thing when it comes to painting a car, the PREP. If
you do a lot of prep work, (stripping chrome, windows, etc.and paint), then
STILL pay $2,500.00 for a car with a couple of light bumps, a small patch,
panel or door spacing work, I'd say that you're getting banged!
Here's how you get an AWESOME paint job as cheap as possible. First and
foremost YOU buy the materials! Find the place in your area, or the area
where your body shop buys their paint and supplies wholesale. Believe me,
they do NOT pay retail prices, they buy from a wholesaler and the wholesaler
will sell the same paint and supplies to you at the same reduced prices.
Tell the wholesaler what you have, (what the car is and what you want to do
to the car), pick the paint color, he'll give you all the right supplies,
pay the man and then go home with your stuff.
Next, hit all the local car dealers and even skulk around the local body
shops. Talk to anyone in town that you know who might have had their car
painted or that knows somebody who paints cars. Talk to some of the body and
paint men in the shops, NOT the boss or owners, but the WORKERS. Find out
who does work "on the side", trust me, they ALL do!
Next, when you find somebody that will do the work, (from the MANY who will
be glad to do the work on the side), check around town to see what kind of
work he's done. DO NOT let anyone touch your car if the person has no track
record, period! Trust me, there's PLENTY of good "side work" guys out there,
take your time and pick a good one, they're all over the place.
Next, it's time to strike a deal with the guy you pick. Try to give the guy
at least a couple of weeks to do the work, (depending upon how much work
you've given him, of course <G>), or all winter storage at HIS garage is
even better <G>. Start out by seeing how much he wants to do it all, then if
that's too much, start knocking off the things that you are SURE that you
can do.
I'll tell you what, it's easy, VERY easy to strip a car down to nothing to
get it ready for paint. Bag and mark everything you take off and save
yourself big bucks. If you can strip the metal parts that need it down to
bare metal you save more, and trust me, stripping a car to bare metal these
days is EASY. They now have VERY user and environmentally friendly, CHEAP
chemical strippers readily available.
Next, can you do any sanding, wire brushing, welding, metal work, etc.? If
you can you save even more money. Even welding panels in or cutting out the
old metal or a big metal patch panel that you bought to replace the floors
will save you money, and you can do that I'm sure. Try to do what ever you
can to help. Even if you screw up a cut or whatever, remember, the bodyman
can fix it anyway.
Once you are down to what you can't do, then strike a deal for the "pro" to
do it for a flat rate, for cash, with ONE HALF in advance, with the
remainder paid at the time you pick up and ACCEPT the car. If more supplies
are needed, YOU go get them. NEVER, let me repeat, NEVER pay all the money
in advance and NEVER at an hourly rate. If the bodyman talks hourly, and you
aren't an heir to some vast fortune, INSTANTLY walk BRISKLY away. I do not
give one shit about what they tell you about hours and this and that,
(because if you wanted to be that stupid you would be at the FRONT door of
the body shop, at $65.00 per coffee drinking hour)!!! You are paying cash
money, off the books, directly into his hand, the end or nothing..........
For a car that you have stripped off all the shiny stuff and glass and paint
stripped to bare metal as necessary, (if necessary, because even though some
parts of a car might need stripping to bare metal, most of it normally
DOESN'T!), needs a few dents filled in, a couple small metal patches, 2
doors, hood and trunk lid re-aligned, all body seams re-sealed with the
proper sealant, all panels paint sealed, primed, blocked sanded to "driver"
specs, 3-4 base coats, 4-5 clear coats, wet sanded, buffed and polished at
LEAST enough to get out all the dirt and orange peel runs about $600.00 to
$700.00 for a good, dependable "side guy" here. If you pay much more than
that, you are getting banged. MAKE SURE that you both understand and agree
what the scope of the work will be. I don't suggest a written agreement, but
I do recommend that you go over the car panel by panel with the guy to
understand what is going to be done, (or maybe not done).
Fair warning, something will ALWAYS, I repeat, ALWAYS rear it's ugly head
during the paint job, (another little patch, more alignment, a few pin holes
to fix, etc.). Stay calm, look carefully at the problem, see what you can do
to help and/or reduce the extra cost, then settle on a deal that you both
can agree upon. Why do I say it like this? Because here's how it normally
goes..... Your phone rings, "Hi, this is your body guy, and I found a
little weak spot on that right rear quarter, it shouldn't be too much more
to fix, but it needs a patch and it's holding me up from finishing the blah,
blah, blah..... You wanna to look at it before I fix it?" Under no
circumstances do you allow him to fix it without going and looking at the
area and coming to an agreement on a flat rate in addition to your initial
agreed upon price, OR prepare to be surprised about how much a little spot
can cost to fix.........
Don't believe me about paint jobs? If you would like to schedule an
appointment for a paint job here in Buffoonalo, I'd be glad to handle it for
you. <G>
Oh, for the legitimate body shop guys that I know we have here on the NG. I
highly respect your profession, and business. This was not to say that you
guys are crooks or don't earn your money. My point is, I want to stop the
fucking whining I've seen about how much a paint job costs, it's just all
plain and simple bullshit. Earl Shives blows the expensive paint job
argument right out of the water from the git-go anyway, even without me
sayin a word.
BUT, I just laid out how much materials cost, and a fella can add $19.00 for
a paint gun, find a place with a compressor and good lights, (hell, bring
the lights if ya need them, they're $10.00 on sale at Home Depot), hang a
few $8.00 tarps up, wet the floor real good, and spray the friggin thing.
Either do a good share of the prep work or what ever work that you can do,
or pay somebody to do it for ya fellas, but stop whining if it costs a ton
of money, it doesn't have too. Ten grand for a paint job? Somebody must have
cloned Mike Angelo or somebody just wanted to brag about having more money
than brains.
Pah-leeeeeeeeeease..........................
Sonny
John Poulos
is a rip off, I think it's a bargain. What do you charge to do minor
body work, prime, block sand, seal, color and clear coat, wet sand and
buff at your shop in NY ?
--
Sonny
doing what he's being asked to do, that was my point with that post. It
isn't my shop John, but a fella who has a nice backyard shop. He's the fella
who did my Lark, and even without talking to him, I'm positive that he'd do
them for $500.00 less. I'll be glad to schedule him if you're ready. <G> Oh,
and an ironclad guaranty, I'll kick his ass if he screws up ANY Studebaker!
<GG>
Sonny
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:ldydnY75Kav...@comcast.com...
Jim Turner
$570.00 for the color coat, clear coat, reducers and hardeners is probably
about right, Dupont clear is $125-150 per gallon, hardener (enough for a
gallon) about $35-45 per pint (not sure on exact, as we buy it by the
gallon) BC/CC color, your right, reds are expensive, but on an allover, 3
quarts would be plenty, but, 3 quarts will cost as much as a gallon, if you
walked into a paint store, we mix our own at the shop. We have a red tinting
color that is about $200 per gallon.
The $570 would not include, etching primer, epoxy primer, reducers for the
primers, masking paper, sand paper, tape, "first kleen", final kleen, lint
free shop rags and wiping cloths, plastic filler, glazing putty, rubbing
compound, polishing compound, etc.
Are ya' getting the picture here? YES, paint materials are not cheap, but,
it also takes a lot of other materials to get the vehicle ready to spray.
Hell, laying the color and clearcoat on is the easy part, its all in the
preparation of the surface, AND what's under the primer and how that was
prepared.
The old saying is/was "a 96 point paint job will cost you X, a 100 point car
will be double that!
Most collision shops do not want to do either rust, or restorations, as it
is way too time consuming.
The only way we'll even consider a rust repair, is to replace both the
quarter panel and outer wheelhouse, (if that is what is rusted) and that is
usually too much $$$ on a 93 whatever.
What ever you do, use the same manufacturer from the etching primer to the
clearcoat, they are made to work together.
Jim Turner
John Poulos
$600-$700 with my materials I haven't found him yet. <g>
Sonny
price did include hardener, clear, thinner, epoxy primer, sand paper, tape,
filler, (and polish I believe). Obviously my paint guy had paper and some
other little stuff, PLUS he has the equipment and space to do it. But that
stuff is the bonus, once you buy equipment, it can be used again 'til it
falls apart in your hand, all that stuff actually gets cheaper with each
job.
Yepper, I got the picture Jim, it's been in front of me for a while, I just
got tired of the whining. But my post was for reducing the amount of
expensive labor that it costs if you get a "drop it off/pick it up paint
job" or the complaints about paint job prices. I don't say that $10,000.00
is too much to pay for a paint job, if it's worth it to somebody, more power
to all the parties involved, but God love 'em, not ME! 'Course, nobody has
ever heard me complain about the price of paint jobs either. <G>
You are soooo right about the 96 to 100 deal Jim, but I sure am not talking
about a 100 point job, that IS a whole different ball game. I talking about
fellas getting off their duff and looking for or doing something to get a
good paint deal, or hell, just drop it off and be quiet when the bill comes
right? <GG> I appreciate ya checkin in.
Sonny
"Jim Turner" <diskb...@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:as0mb.13848$e01.26647@attbi_s02...
Sonny
painted. <G> Dang, I won't have my Lark all back together before Reedsville,
but I would have driven it there so you could get a look at my paint job.
Not too many more picky than me and I'm happy. <G>
Sonny
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:Q6KdnTs4KJS...@comcast.com...
Street Rodder
I'm going to let Sonny find someone to haul my Stude over to Bufoonalo for
$150.00, then give Sonny $570.00 to buy all the materials and $600.00 to the
painter when the job is done to my satisfaction. He doesn't need any front
money, he's not buying any materials. Then I'll hire the same hauling sucker
for another $150.00 to bring my Show Car back to where ever it is I am. Of
course Sonny needs to be compensated for his time, $50.00 is enough don't
you think. All total that's.....$1530.00 I think. Not bad when you consider
a paint job of that quality around here will cost you $5000.00.
I just paid $7500.00 to have my Street Driven 426 Blown Hemi with an eight
speed transmission Vega painted and it's got a paint sag down on the bottom
of the right rocker panel. The painter said she wasn't gonna fix it because
you have to be laying on the ground with the car jacked up to even see it. I
said 'yes I know, that's how I found it'. What should I do?
SRodder
"Sonny" <as...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:GT%lb.2780$CE2.2...@news2.news.adelphia.net...
Bob Kay
availble camels were decimated with the fall of Iraqi infantry!
John Poulos <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:IZ6dnVeHm5g...@comcast.com...
Bob Kay
Sonny - will this debut in paperback or hardcover? <SEG>
Sonny <as...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:GT%lb.2780$CE2.2...@news2.news.adelphia.net...
Sonny
ice tea...............<G>
Sonny
"Street Rodder" <street...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:G81mb.32392$h47....@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Bob Kay
OVER-restoration. It's just impossible to say that you got your paint sorry
enough to match what woulda been "factory" because no one recollects just
what degree of imperfect is correct! That's why Ol' StudeBob ain't havin' no
Studes judged and ain't judgin' no one elses. There ain't no points deducted
as I pull away from a stop sign anyway, so why would I care?
Sonny <as...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:441mb.2785$CE2.2...@news2.news.adelphia.net...
Ray Fichthorn
John Poulos wrote:
> I'll just wait for Ray reply. <g>
and so I will......
> Sonny wrote:
>
>> It cost me about $570.00 for ALL the materials to put some of the most
>> expensive, and best base coat, factory color paint on my car. I've NEVER
>> seen materials go over $1,000.00 for any "standard" paint job. WATCH
>> MY LIPS FELLAS,
Sonny, sonny, sonny... all right son...... I think you are having trouble with your math... OR you
don't know what the word "ALL" means...
Here's what I include as "ALL" the materials I need to do a "regular" paint job (not stripped bare
metal, etc).. These are LAST YEARS prices for DUPONT materials.. They have increased about 10% this
year, but I don't have those receipts handy.
1) Epoxy Primer- 1 gallon is enough to prime and seal an entire car once it has been sanded.
It costs me $187 for a "KIT" of Primer + Hardener + Reducer ... I will use every bit of that primer
for most average jobs. I use it to seal the old paint if in "good condition" , to seal any body
fillers, and as a pre-paint sealer once all the bodywork is done.
2) High-Build epoxy primer- (2K urethane)- 1 Gallon $58.57 Activator $57.96 Reducer: (minimal). I
usually use a bit more than a gallon (2-3 on Restorations) but you just want an "average paintjob"
3) Basecoat: Depending on manufacturer and color it varies enormously. As little as $185 for a
gallon of White, to $467 for 1 gallon (BASECOAT only) for Brian's Red '63 Avanti. I did the jambs
and in the trunk and used 1.5 gallons on that car. Lets average this to $250 (VERY LOWBALL)
4) Basecoat Reducer: $40/gal.. generally need 1.5 gallons ($60)
5) Clearcoat- 1.5 gallons needed $234 Activator $48 Reducer (qt) $10.14
Well, we're up to $905.67 ..... MY COST- NO TAX! Care to GUESS what the LIST PRICE is?
You must really have a steady hand and GREAT spraygun to not need, 2" tape, 3/4" tape, or Masking
paper,
Do you spray your cars at the hospital? in one of their Clean rooms??? I guess you won't be needing:
tack cloths, lint-free rags, pre-paint cleaner, no-residue soap to prewash,
Your old-cracked hands must make for some good sandpaper... I guess the backs are 80 grit and your
palms are 320? For watersanding... do you rub the finish with your cheeks instead (pick any cheek)?
I use a minumum of 8 different grits of sandpapers, 3 different grinding disks, scotchbright pads,
and several different "types" to fit various sanding tools I have. I won't use a "whole roll" of
each on any single car... but I will use $100-$150 worth easily...
Lets not forget: razor blades, cheap spray-paint(3-4 cans for guidecoat), wash/clean up thinners,
vinyl gloves, paper overalls, respirator cartridges, plastic sheeting (for NOT painting things),
sanding pads, buffing pads, buffing compounds, body fillers (3 differnt kinds), These are things
used on almost EVERY job.
Other stuff : Oxy/acetylene, mig gas, mig wire, mig tips, rivets, studs(for my dent puller), steel,
paint mixing cups, seam sealers, etc...etc...
No, I don't use everything on every car I do, but I must keep it in STOCK for when I do need it.
Ray (head spinning from all this here cyferrin')
Grumpy au Contraire
Street Rodder wrote:
>
>
> I just paid $7500.00 to have my Street Driven 426 Blown Hemi with an eight
> speed transmission Vega painted and it's got a paint sag down on the bottom
> of the right rocker panel. The painter said she wasn't gonna fix it because
> you have to be laying on the ground with the car jacked up to even see it. I
> said 'yes I know, that's how I found it'. What should I do?
> SRodder
>
Go to the gun cabinet and grab that lonely AK-47, clean and lubricate it
and load two 30 round clips making sure that one is in the chamber.
Then mount up on the blown Hemi and engage the first of eight gears.
Ease the clutch and slowly make your way to the main road and head for
your painter's shop being sure to stay within the speed limit unless you
want to be "discovered."
When approaching the shop shove the tranny into neutral and coast
quietly into the parking lot discretely but deliberately and park
tail-in near the exit to the street.
Sit and listen to a few country 'n western ballads about cheatin'
painters and other less than public servants. This will vastly increase
your nerve reservoir and once the courage has been mustered for a
"chat," stroll over and lay your cards onto the table.
(to be continued)
--
JT
Just tooling through cyberspace in my ancient G4
Grumpy au Contraire
JT
--
Sonny
keep a body shop goin huh? How can I have ever been so wrong? <wink, wink>
<SEG>
Sonny
"Ray Fichthorn" <stud...@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1C1mb.5423$v82.2...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Grumpy au Contraire
Ray Fichthorn wrote:
>
>
snip
>
> I use a minumum of 8 different grits of sandpapers, 3 different grinding disks, scotchbright pads,
> and several different "types" to fit various sanding tools I have. I won't use a "whole roll" of
> each on any single car... but I will use $100-$150 worth easily...
>
> Lets not forget: razor blades, cheap spray-paint(3-4 cans for guidecoat), wash/clean up thinners,
> vinyl gloves, paper overalls, respirator cartridges, plastic sheeting (for NOT painting things),
> sanding pads, buffing pads, buffing compounds, body fillers (3 differnt kinds), These are things
> used on almost EVERY job.
>
> Other stuff : Oxy/acetylene, mig gas, mig wire, mig tips, rivets, studs(for my dent puller), steel,
> paint mixing cups, seam sealers, etc...etc...
>
> No, I don't use everything on every car I do, but I must keep it in STOCK for when I do need it.
>
> Ray (head spinning from all this here cyferrin')
Hah!!!
You need to get into the 21st century. Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez,
ain't you ever heard of JIT??? "Lean" operations??? MRP???
<GGG>
--
JT
<Just doin' my duty to stir the schitt!>
Grumpy au Contraire
JT
--
Jim
send shivers down your spine about trying to save a buck on a paint job >>
Ok- We're all ears here
mark dunning
materials
Mark (Oh- you wanted NICE!?!) Dunning
"--Shiva--" <no...@abuse.net> wrote in message
news:bn9n3a$v4p$0...@63.78.119.48...
> On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 18:07:24 GMT, you wrote:
>
> >*REALLY* nice paint jobs can put a big dent in $10K...
> >
> >JT
> >
> saw a 'non' studebaker once, done by a local custom painter...
>
> the PAINT for the top coat ran $4,000, JUST THE PAINT...
>
> this did not include the undercoating OR body work, OR the top
> coats....
>
> (he sold the car for $75k, BTW)
>
> --Shiva--
>
>
Ray Fichthorn
>
> You need to get into the 21st century. Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez,
> ain't you ever heard of JIT??? "Lean" operations??? MRP???
JIT... doesn't work in a Body shop... Especially since its a minimum of 45 minutes round trip to
pick up anything. I'm not a high production collision shop, so the AP's won't deliver.
as for "Lean operations"... I'm only 175 pounds.. and don't need my stomach stapled...
MRP? Manufacturer's retail price? Hell, If I charged my customers that... no Studes would get
repaired around here...
<GGG back at ya!)
Ray
Bob Kay
anyone who missed it.
As a kid, I worked at a place that dispensed propane. Our trucks delivered
bottles and filled big tanks on customer's properties. One of my jobs was to
wire brush the loose silver paint off the empty bottles and slop on a fresh
coat
As it happened, my dad spent his working life at the DuPont automotive
paint division in Toledo. We always had a rainbow array of cans of paint
around the house. I remember my dad painted all the garden tools in bright
colors so they'd last longer and were easy to see.
Anyway, at this propane place we had an old geezer that sorta acted as
janitor/ phone answering machine when the boss and crew were out making
deliveries. He drove an old and rusting Chevy 2-door that was that very
light green with a dark green roof. While the car was disappearing from the
bottom - up (thanks to salted roads), he was distressed that the dark green
of the roof was fading fast.
So one day he inquired as to whether or not I thought he might be able to
get some dark green thru my dad. Heck, I knew I could. Dad was allowed to
take home gallons of paint and thinner each month. More than we ever needed!
So about a week later I handed this guy a gallon can that dad had gotten
for me. I just figured the janitor guy would have someone spray it on for
him. We'd never discussed the application of it. Well, he looked at me
squarely, raised one eyebrow and asked: "I suppose now I have to find you a
clean brush, eh?"
I stammered something out to the effect that I had no idea how to paint a
car. Then he reached over and patted one of the freshly silver-slopped
bottles I'd just done. "You're the chief painter around here, ain't ya?"
One fresh brush and step ladder later, the Chevy wore a gleaming fresh
roof of green enamel. The ol' fella was happy and I was proud!
mark dunning <marks...@earthlinnot.net> wrote in message
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John Poulos
companies' like Wal Mart use the cheap labor to do cheap jobs that no
legal would except. We could stop the flow into the country in a month
if we'd refuse to use them as cheap labor. Even here in Annapolis, most
restaurants would lose their dish washers. <g>
--
Sonny
Sonny
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
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John Poulos
a comment to another post.
T or V
find an older vacuum cleaner.
Most of the older types had a spray bottle device that you could use to
spray the car. I have done it a number of times with great success. works
good for spraying mosquitoes also. I tried the vacuum idea on my barn but it
gets to heavy after awhile and it took more extension cord than I had.
Snurdly
bob40
suspension mods,yee-haw 500 inch engine.Everything from
chrome,glass,interior was NOS.Car was assembled,fitted,tested then I
disassembled the car for paint.Show car/trailer queen mentality running
rampant.In choosing my body and paint guy I asked veteran rodders and
builders in my area.Mister Z was mentioned over and over..meticulous
craftsman,superb bodywork and could lay paint like a wizard.Checked around a
dozen jobs he had done..sweet work.I stripped the body and delivered it in
virgin steel.$3500 was the agreed price with half down.Fair enough it
seemed.I checked in a few times and the car was straight as an arrow.Time
for paint choice.Turquois and Ivory in BC/CC was decided.I opt to buy the
paint and materials from a local paint supplier.Mister Z says..I mix my own
paints...get a better match that way...I bow to his expertise.Car is shot
and I get a call to pick it up.Excitedly drive down and then I
see............my car is GREEN AND WHITE.....IN LACQUER!!!!!..loaded car on
trailer while Mister Z waited for his payment.Refused to pay second half and
drove away.Ended up having the car stripped(by a shop..I was too pissed to
even look at the car to do it myself) and had it redone.Pain in the ass as
it had to be damn near dipped to get all the wrong chemicals off all the
surfaces. I tried to save a buck...did most of the right things but trusted
someone else to do the right thing and it cost me a whole lot more.Assembled
the car and sold it 3 months later.One bad decision can really make a horror
story.
Apologies for the long rant.
Bob40
Gordon Richmond
with the vacuum cleaner attachment. Turned out really well, except for
the fact that dust and fluff from inside the old hose stuck in the
paint, and it came out looking more like it had been flocked. <G>
Gord Richmond
Judy Sauer
Judy
"Gordon Richmond" <rich...@telusplanet.net> wrote in message
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