1935 Kingpin Mechanical Marvel or Work of Art

StudeBob

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Nov 27, 2002, 9:19:23 AM11/27/02

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Neat George! Are you saying that this sort of setup is peculiar to '34-'35?
If so, I know where there's a complete front chassis slip laying in the
weeds.

--
StudeBob Kabchef
Studefarming in Calif.
"George Rohrbach" <geo...@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:dl4F9.7278$R5.46...@nnrp1.ptd.net...
> I finally finished my control arms and kingpins and put them on the
chassis.
> Good feeling to put something back on, instead of taking it off. Thought
> some of you might want to see how they turned out. In '34 and '35 the king
> pins were hollow and had a sort of pancake drip oiler (no grease). The
> control arm moves on rubber bushings and greased pin bearings (like a
> universal joint), while the steering knuckle rotates on a 3 part
> steel/bronze/steel flat bushing. The kingpin has 2 bronze bushings. No
ball
> bearings.--
> George Rohrbach http://www.highspeedmotors.com
>
>
>
>
>

Sonny

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Nov 27, 2002, 2:24:25 PM11/27/02

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I'd say work of art. It's beautiful George. Musta been a hell of a job,
lot's of moving parts. That's the labor of love that nobody ever sees. A
fella can spend lots of time and money, I myself really appreciate the
mechanical or engineered stuff that is involved in getting one back to life.
I couldn't make strokes on a canvas that would make any sense, or put a
story on paper that would keep you awake, I don't have that kind of
creativity. But I look at something like this as art too. It takes just as
much creativity to get to this level of excellence. Congratulations to the
artist George. <G>

Sonny

mark dunning

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Nov 28, 2002, 8:08:57 AM11/28/02

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Sweeeet!!

Mark (I like new paint) Dunning

Frank Starr

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Nov 30, 2002, 12:48:23 PM11/30/02

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Looks really nice, George. What clearance did you wind up honing it to?
And, did you toy with the idea of converting that flat bushing to a ball
bearing?

Frank Starr

George Rohrbach

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Nov 30, 2002, 8:00:00 PM11/30/02

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The clearance is what some call a slight slip fit. (No numbers). I ended
up reaming it, taking it to a very snug, just go through fit, with all
surfaces polished. Then I honed it in by hand using Wenol!, so that there
were no spots that were binding. People made a lot of different guesses on
what it should be. The way it ended up, with no lube (I don't intend to have
it that way long) it moves like it already had lube in it.
I actually had one of the 1935 Studebaker rebuild kits, that had all the
parts to change it over, that was made after 1936. In 1936 Studebaker
stopped using the flat bushings, and went to a more conventional grease zirc
fitting and ball bearing. The one rebuild kit that I had was a kit to
retrofit it to the "new technology". So I could have switched it over fairly
easy. Played with the idea for a long time. But, before I took it apart, the
car drove ok, and my original pins did not have much wear - the engineering
on the drip oil setup was ok. It was so damn pretty with that pancake oiler,
that I went original.

--
George Rohrbach
Visit my Web site.
HIGHSPEED MOTORS, Your local Studebaker Dealer of THE 20’s, 30’s And 40’s
http://www.highspeedmotors.com

"Frank Starr" <fst...@oz.net> wrote in message
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