Replacing coil springs

[Tom Noller]

Time to replace the old Lark VI springs with the HD ones I bought from Dennis,
some months ago, as I'm about to replace the 6 with a 259 and it looks like the
best way would be to slip my floor jack under the lower control arm, snug it
up, then loosen the 4 bolts that hold the lower pins and slowly lower the arm.
Naturally, after I remove the lower shock nut and front sway bar. Sound about
right to you? Thanks!

[John Poulos]

I just remove the big nut off the bottom of the spindle and place a
'safety rod' down through the shock hole just in case. (After placing
the jack and taking the weight off the lower A frame naturally.) Than
just carefully lower the jack and remove the spring.

Tom Noller wrote:

--
JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Cruiser
63 R2 4 speed Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R3 clone(Md.keeper)
51 Champion

[Ray Fichthorn]

Tom,
It's not that easy....

First question is: Is the engine/trans still in the car? Without the weight- the control arms will
not release enough tension from the spring for removal of the bolts.

Here's what I do: http://www.ncsdc.com/TechnicalPages/FrontSuspension/FrontSuspension.html

Ray

[Ron Butts]

Absolutely not! Jack car up as high as possible with jack stands back under
frame. Take the wheel off, remove the brake drum/hub assembly, remove the
backing plate, pull out over spindle and hang by means of coat hanger or
wire being careful not to damage flex brake hose. Remove shock from
vehicle. Remove sway bar. Place floor jack under outer most part of lower
control arm without being on nor contacting spindle/kingpin nut. Jack up
suspension to upper most limits without car coming off jack stand. Reach in
and remove upper rebound bumper. Remove the two upper control arm shaft
bolts. Lift arm up, let jack down a little, stop, lift arm and roll out, let
jack down a little, stop and keep repeating this until the jack is all the
way down. You are now ready to pull the old spring out. To install the
new spring just reverse the process.
Ron

"Tom Noller" <flat...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040623172835...@mb-m03.aol.com...

[Lee]

Tom,

I believe you would be better off if you support the car by the frame
behind the wheel/at the firewall. Then, put the jack under the lower
control arm and remove shock, sway bar and the 2 bolts holding the
upper control arm to the frame. Pull the upper arm up so it will
clear the frame and slowly lower the jack from a SAFE postition (not
in front of the spring).

Lee DeLaBarre
Daytona62
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible 62V10399
1962 Lark Regal Convertible 62V????? (Dad's Last New Studebaker)
1962 Lark Regal Convertible 62V41115 (When Done, Dad's Next New Studebaker)
1963 Daytona Wagonaire (Debbie's "Little Red Wagon")
1963 GT Hawk 63V14568 (The Insurance Hawk)
1964 Avanti R2 4-Speed R5410 (Lark in a Party Dress <G>)
1964 Lark 4-Door Sedan 64V17327 R1 Powered Y3 Police Car
1964 Lark Convertible (Canadian Built)
(2) Studebaker Factory Parts Train Cars

[Ray Fichthorn]

The only "problem" I have with this- is it is sometimes pretty difficult to realign the kingpin and
get the key lined up correctly. It also tends to "fall apart" when you lower the control arm.

It does save you from removing the upper bushings and pin- but they are REAL easy to reassemble.
(provided you have the spreader tool)

Ray

[Dan Peterson]

Tom,
There are a number of different was to do this, however the method in the service manual in which
you remove the bolts that hold the upper outer bracket to the front crossmember is challenging, to
say the least. The problem is getting the nuts off and back on the bolts inside the front
crossmember. I found that removing the large nut which holds the lower end of the king pin to the
lower outer suspension worked best, it takes a little perswasion to get the king pin to come out of
the lower support (housing) and back on but I found it much easier than the factory method. Also be
aware that you will need two jacks one under the lower front suspension a-frame and one under the
front of the car frame. The spring expands so much you will need to raise the car frame higer off
the floor to full expand the spring. I learned this from expeience... good luck and be careful these
springs have a lot of pent up energy when compressed. I have some photos of the process at the
following website:

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=155747933

Hopefully you can view these, if not let me know.
Regards,,
Dan

"Tom Noller" <flat...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040623172835...@mb-m03.aol.com...

[Ray Fichthorn]

I for one- do NOT like the idea if putting my hands under the upper control arm- to get at the 3/4"
nuts holding the upper control arm shafts. At the VERY LEAST- use a LONG open end wrench or similar
to hold the nuts (you can fish them out with a magnet later- as they will fall into the
crossmember). One slip of the jack, and you could lose a hand or some fingers....

and use a chain THROUGH the spring for safety

Ray

[Tom Noller]

Thanks much, guys. The old engine & tranny are out and so is one spring now.
Being very careful and will count all fingers when it's over. Geez, I'm
respectful of things that are under pressure and am always careful to not get
under them or 'downwind' of their potential force.

[Ron Butts]

Ray
You don't have to your hands under the control arm. Put a piece of duct
tape on the bottom side of a long 3/4" box end wrench. This keeps your
hands out of harm's way. Nuts and washers won't drop when removing and when
reinstalling just place the nut in the pocket along with the lock washer and
your home free. BTW, after the car is on jack stands, I can have the entire
front suspension on the floor in about two hours using this procedure (not
counting coffee breaks). <GG>
Ron

"Ray Fichthorn" <stud...@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:y9oCc.66994$2o2.3...@twister.southeast.rr.com...

[Jim Turner]

Go get a spring compressor that goes through the middle! Take the tension
off the spring, and then unbolt the lower control arm! Spring compressors
are CHEAP compared to medical bills!

Jim Turner

[John Poulos]

That's the hardest way IMHO, and I've done dozens the easy way. <g>

Jim Turner wrote:

--

[Lee]

I use a box end wrench with duct tape over the bottom of the hole.
Have not lost a nut yet <G>

[Jim Turner]

may be the hardest way, but it's the SAFEST way!

Jim Turner

[John Poulos]

I feel my method is safer, the spring can't fly off with a bar down the
center and no worries about the compressor letting go.

Jim Turner wrote:

> may be the hardest way, but it's the SAFEST way!
>
> Jim Turner
>
>

--

[Grumpy au Contraire]

Same here. And I have yet to use a spreader tool for the top outter
pin(s). So far so good...

JT

--
JT

Just tooling through cyberspace in my ancient G4

[Grumpy au Contraire]

I hate spring compressors! Scares the schitt outta me (Don't go there Calvin!)

JT

-

[Grumpy au Contraire]

Spring compressors have been known to fail and now that most of the
tools are coming from abroad, I like the jack under the outer lower
control arm. I've done at least a couple dozen cars that way without
any problems.

JT

-

[Craig Parslow]

"Grumpy au Contraire" <Gru...@doofis.FAKEcom> wrote in message
news:40DA3F88...@doofis.FAKEcom...

> Spring compressors have been known to fail and now that most of the
> tools are coming from abroad, I like the jack under the outer lower
> control arm. I've done at least a couple dozen cars that way without
> any problems.

I have found one of the best tools for lowering the lower control arm down
after removing the bolt off the kingpin is one of those common scissor jacks
as used on old Datsuns. Toyotas, et al. The have a fine screw mechanism, a
long handle/crank, making it easier to control than a hydraulic bottle jack.
As well, I found it the best to re-install a coil spring. If it makes one
feel more secure, 3/8" all-thread rod with fender washers and nuts at either
end is probably amongst the safest to use in the middle of the spring should
it decide to go south on you in the remove/install process.

Craig.

[Oldcarfart]

>Subject: Re: Replacing coil springs
>From: Grumpy au Contraire Gru...@doofis.FAKEcom

>
>I hate spring compressors! Scares the schitt outta me (Don't go there
>Calvin!)
>

me? go where? <G>

[Grumpy au Contraire]

Craig Parslow wrote:
>
> "Grumpy au Contraire" <Gru...@doofis.FAKEcom> wrote in message
> news:40DA3F88...@doofis.FAKEcom...
> > Spring compressors have been known to fail and now that most of the
> > tools are coming from abroad, I like the jack under the outer lower
> > control arm. I've done at least a couple dozen cars that way without
> > any problems.
>
> I have found one of the best tools for lowering the lower control arm down
> after removing the bolt off the kingpin is one of those common scissor jacks
> as used on old Datsuns. Toyotas, et al. The have a fine screw mechanism, a
> long handle/crank, making it easier to control than a hydraulic bottle jack.
> As well, I found it the best to re-install a coil spring. If it makes one
> feel more secure, 3/8" all-thread rod with fender washers and nuts at either
> end is probably amongst the safest to use in the middle of the spring should
> it decide to go south on you in the remove/install process.
>
> Craig.
>

Ah, the secret is to have a quality hydraulic jack that offers good
control. Those cheapie Walmart etc. brands won't do that.

I have had my jack for nearly ten years and I can play it like a violin...

[Grumpy au Contraire]

Good boy... Good boy... Nice Calvin!!!

<eg>

[Jeff Rice]

Sounds painful.
What does the wife say about tools and tape in the bathroom?
Jeff (inquiring minds <lol>) Rice

"Lee" wrote..

[keith kichefski]

Some springs are a lot longer when un-compressed than others. Here is
what works for me: I use an external spring compressor (type for
struts) when the spring is on the ground. I take the spring down to
about 1/2 of its relaxed length. Then I use two large turnbuckles
placed on the inside of the coils. Two pieces of steel bar stock,
(length cut to the diameter of the spring) is placed one coil in from
each end, which passes through the eyelets of the turnbuckles. Then I
back off the spring compressor. I place the spring assembly in the
car. Once everything is bolted down, I back off the turnbuckles and
install the shock absorber. KK

[Bill Glass]

Tony Calrallas' grandson Wayne Morris taught me a feel proof method of
replacing the coil springs.

A few years ago I posted it here and got yelled at about how dangerous it is.

You need a really good two to three ton jack, and some very heavy chain, that
has no weak links, plus two long thick nuts and bolts.

You lay the chain under the jack, then wrap the chain around the upper frome
rail. As you jack up the jack, the spring starts to compress, and you can get
it to a point where you can then loosen the inner lower control arm bolts that
are attached to the main cross member.

Once the bolts are removed, insert a very large thick pry bar or sacrificial
screw driver, and slowly loosen the jack and lower it slowly. When the control
arm is on the ground you can safetly remove the spring with out any tension or
compressiion on it.

You reverse the proceedure to raise the control arm with the new spring. The
pry bar will also assist in making sure the four holes will line up.

HOWEVER, this proceedure will not work on 47-49 Commanders, for those cars you
will need some friends on a local police department to bring over their ESU
truck and their Jaws of Life Tool ( Hurst Tool ).