Dana 44 Flanged Axle Conversion

[64daytonaht]

I spent my entire Sunday fun day having fun converting a Dana 44 tapered
axle to flanged axles. Talk about a chore.

Anybody that says it can be done in 2 hours is nuts. I took me 10 hours.

Anybody done one of these, all by themselves? What was your experience
like?

Bo

[Dan White]

Bo can you give us a blow by blow of what is involved and what took the
most time? I am considering the conversion also but would like to know
what I am getting into.
--
Dan White
'64 R1
'64 R2
'55 E38

[StudebakerGeorge]

I have just finished my third one. There are a few things to get used to
doing; "tricks" I guess you could say.. I have lifts and it still isn't
THAT easy of a job although it's not near as hard as some. I wrote a long
feedback email to Phil Harris if anyone is interested I (or he) may still
have it. The first one I did I hopped in the car and did a 400+ mile trip
with no problems. I do have a couple things to add to the feedback list.
One, be sure not to over grease and the other to double check tightness on
everything after driving the car. And longer grade eight bolts will be
needed for some jobs.
Studebaker George

[64daytonaht]

Dan,

Nothing was really all that hard. It was just time consuming. Dissassembly
and cleaning took the longest time. Followed by assembling the axles and
reinstallation of the axles and brake components. There are a couple of
things that one should eye critically and pay close attention to.

The most critical thing was setting the bearing tolerance and ensuring the
correct fit of the bearing to backing plate/seal. You'll need a good press
to install the bearing and retainer collar. Under no circumstances should
you try and hammer/pound the bearing and retainer onto the axle. Press one
at a time, never try both. You will ruin the bearing sure as the dickens. I
had to make a tool to press the bearing and retainer onto the axle shaft. I
used the shifting tube from a 50 model Studebaker which is 1 1/2' ID. This
worked well, until we discovered that the bearing surface was a tad bit
bigger then the tube. Had to clamp the tub in the vice and drive axle shaft
out using another shaft.

BEWARE!!!!!!!!!! Put all parts on in the right direction and placement
before pressing the bearing. You get one chance. After that it's blue
wrench time! (Torch, that is!!!!!!!!!!)

Cleaning the differential housing and associated bearings/cavities is of
great importance. The axle bearing is an open bearing and the environment
must be clean to keep it clean. Several (3) small buckets and a couple
gallons of cleaning fluid (brake cleaner), kerosene, or something none
corrosive should do the trick. The housing and all gear and bearing
surfaces should be throughly cleaned and new differential lubricant (IAW
with shop manual specifications) added. This would be a very good time to
change out the pinion seal if it is old and the housing cover gasket.

I would recommend that if your housing doesn't have the taped/threaded holes
for the grease fittings, that you drill and tap them. Reason, these are
open bearings and will need to be repacked often. To do so would mean
totally dissasembling both axles to get at the bearing. With the grease
fitting installed, all you would need do is grease the bearing semi
annually, or annually. Avoid over greasing. Make sure you install plugs,
or set screws. Don't leave the grease fitting in place. If the little
check ball were to fail, internal pressure could force lubricant out.

Anyway, plan on a good 8 hours to do the job, maybe 10 if you discover a
leaking wheel cylinder, or two. Take your time and make sure the job is
done right.

Bo

[StudebakerGeorge]

I am wondering here if we are on the same page, Bo. Why were you dinking
with the bearing and retainer? The kits I got from Fairborn had the
bearing and retainer already on along with the outer retainer/seal and
gasket. Also, I have never used a torch to remove a retainer; I split it
with a chisel and it falls off.
Studebaker George

[bobcar...@hotmail.com]

Yep; there's no need to fool with the bearing and retainer and outer
retainer seal. It's all ready to install, assembled, when you take them
out of the box.

As usual, the biggest variable in time will be the condition of the
rest of the assemblies that are dismantled in the process, and may need
attention in the course of the axle installation job. BP

[64daytonaht]

George,

I don't know anything about the kits Fairborn has, or how they work. There
are other sources for flanged axles and have been for the last 40 years.

Was the backing plate, seal cover and outer seal all ready installed? The
kit percured had to be assembled, starting with the seal cover, seal,
backing plate (will not fit over the bearing, or the axle hub and has to be
installed prior to bearing and retainer being pressed into place), bearing
pressed on, bearing retainer pressed on. Inner seal and bearing spacer had
to be installed into the axle housing. Unit slide into place and attached
to the axle housing via 4 bolts.

Bo

[Jeff Rice]

Fairborn's axles are all loaded and ready to slide in.
All you need to do is install the outer race in the housing, and enlarge the
hole in the backing plate to allow the bearing to slide through.
Oh, and if you are using a world famous Jim Turner rear disk brake
conversion kit, you will need to add a spacer to take up the difference in
the thickness of the now removed backing plate. They sell this as a $12 (or
so) option (and it is a water jet cut piece that is almost too pretty to put
in where you'll never see it).
The Fairborn axles are made by Moser Axle Co. which makes a ton of race
axles.
Top shelf stuff (I am running a pair of Moser axles on my CE).
Jeff ( I have your manifold ready for you Bo) Rice

"64daytonaht" wrote...

[64daytonaht]

I think that since the backing plate helps hold the axle and bearing in
place that I shall decline enlarging the hole in it, thus relying only on
the seal/plate to retain the axle.

Besides, the Fairborn kit costs a lot more then the one used. The little
extra work is probably worth the extra $200.00, or so.

Bo (JMHO)
"Jeff Rice" <deepnhoc...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:Wvawe.21883$FP2.15080@lakeread03...

[TJH]

I was wondering, for those of you that have put in the Fairborn axles, did
you use a .050 shim on the drivers side as suggested? The reason that I
ask is that the shop manual indicates putting shims only on the passenger
side and to do the adjustments there. It seems logical to "balance" both
sides out however.

Tom Harrill

"Jeff Rice" <deepnhoc...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:Wvawe.21883$FP2.15080@lakeread03...

[StudebakerGeorge]

On the first one I did I did the left side first like I always did...with
no shims. Dummy me didn't read the instructions... The next one I used a
shim; and the third one was relatively easy as it was an open rear. One
fifty thou on the left, and another on the right with one or two little
ones; can't remember. Longer bolts (for the retainer/seal) are a must to
draw in the bearing and then on one I needed longer bolts (use grade 8) on
one side when done. By all means, drill the hole for a fitting first and
pack the bearings AFTER the shimming is done. Makes it a LOT easier! put
a plug in it if you feel you need it afterwards. I also take a zip wheel
around the swaged part of the wheel studs and then the drum comes out with
a couple hammer taps. Takes some time, but I haven't warped/bent one so
far. Pressing WILL bend the drums unless you have all kinds of goofy
adapter setups. And I take the zip wheel again to the inside of the holes
in the drums to knock off any edges. Makes SURE the drum lays flat on the
axle. One one of the axles, it wouldn't go in until I noticed a couple
little burrs on the splined end. A file took care of those quickly and
then it went right in.
Studebaker George

[64daytonaht]

With the kit I used, shimming is only required if the bearing/end of housing
tolerance of .020 to .060 can not be obtained by grinding of the bearing
spacer.

I guess I got lucky with this one, because the left side measured .060 and
the right side .055. Both were within the tolerance specifications and
didn't require any shimming.

Since each housing is a little different, I suspect the next one I do to be
completely different. So, who knows.

Bo

[StudebakerGeorge]

Bo, I wish I could see this "kit" you are using, if it uses cup and cone
bearings like the Faiborn and factory does, I hope you are not setting the
end play to fifty thou or so; tapered cup and cone bearings should be close
to zero. The factory says six thou max or something like that IIRC. As
far as price, every time I look at my quarter panel (still haven't fixed
it) I'm reminded of my stubborn streak that made me resist changing the
tapered axles. The bodywork will cost me more than the axle kit. The
Fairborn kit is a high quality unit that requires no grinding to obtain
tollerances. It is well thought out by some of the best minds around.
Oops, I sound like a commercial, but from your description of the "kit"
you are using, I think I will continue to pony up the buckaroos to Phil
and his gang...
Studebaker George

[R1Lark]

Bo,

Who did you buy your Flanged Axle kit from?? Inquiring minds want to
know<G>.

Paul